권호 표지

Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume

  • Bimonthly
  • /
  • 1229-6880(pISSN)
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  • 2287-7827(eISSN)

Domain

  • Culture/Arts/Sports ＞ Clothing Design
  • Human Ecology ＞ Clothing

Aim & Scope

한국복식학회 학술지 ‘服飾’은 복식전공분야의 학문적 교류를 통한 복식학 분야의 발전에 이바지함을 그 목적으로 하고 있습니다. 즉 각 전공분야의 정보를 신속하게 공유하여 복식 산업발전에 기여하며 패션산업 현장에서의 디자인을 비롯한 여러 분야의 연구에 실질적인 도움을 주고자 합니다. ‘服飾’ 학술지에는 복식사, 복식미학 및 패션디자인, 패션마케팅, 및 심리, 의복구성 및 텍스타일, 복식일반을 비롯한 복식 전반에 걸친 학자들의 연구 성과를 싣고 있습니다. ‘服飾’은 2003년부터 한국연구재단 등재학술지로 지정되었으며, 지금까지 연 10회 발행되던 학술지를 게재논문의 질적 향상을 위하여 2020년부터는 연 6회 발행하고 있습니다. 또한 논문 Full-Text등을 전산화하여 인터넷에서도 검색이 가능한 정보화사업을 하고 있습니다. The purpose of the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (JKSC), the academic journal of the Korean Society of Costume (KSC), is to contribute to the development and diversity of the study of costume by becoming a means to scholarly exchange. In other words, the goal is to contribute to the development of the fashion industry and to give practical assistance to various design-related research by prompt exchange of information from the various fields of costume studies. JKSC covers a broad spectrum of research outputs from the field of costume studies, such as the history of costume, dress aesthetics, fashion design, fashion marketing, psychology, clothing construction, and textiles. First published in 1977, JKSC has been listed on the Korean Citation Index (KCI) by the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF) since 2003. Once published as frequently as 10 times per year, the JKSC has, since 2020, been published six times per year in order to better promote the qualitative improvement of its academic papers. KSC is now in the process of informatizing a system to provide a range of online services, while its full-text electronic resources are already available online.

http://onkjournal.co.kr/sobis/ksc.jsp KSCI KCI

Volume 56 Issue 8 Serial No. 108

  1. Lee, Joo-Young;Lee, Kyung-Hee;Kwon, Young-Suk 1
    PDF KSCI
    This study is to examine the Hyangnag used in China. Results of the study can be described as below. 1. Hyangnang was also called Hyangdae, Hyanghapo, Hunnang and Chunnang. Perfumes were used to make the body and clothes diffuse a good fragrance. And Perfumes were used to prevent insects and remove related pollutions. It was possible to prevent insects when perfumes were burnt out. 2. In the Han, Song, Yao and Win periods, Hyangnang had Cylinderical, Rectangular, Cylinderical and Rectangular, Circular and Calabach types. These various types were developed into one, Norigae type, in the period of Ching. 3. Hyangnang were decorated mainly with embroideries, knots and seams. Embroideries were applied always onto the surface of Hyangnang. Knots were used mainly in the Song and Win periods, decorative seams were used mainly in the Ching. 4. From the Han to Yao periods, Hyangnang was made of perforate textiles like na and Sa for practical reasons, making perfume smells more easily diffused. From the Win to Ching periods, Hyangang was made of dense textiles like silk and Dan, which could be easily embroidered for decoration purposes. 5. Hyangnang was often hanged down from the waistband and up onto the fore chest or the elbow, or put into the liner of the sleeve. 6. Hyangnang has immanent implications of symbolism, ideology and aristocraticism.
  2. Beom, Seo-Hee;Lee, In-Sung 15
    PDF KSCI
    Knit wear was industrialized, diversified, specialized and was made into high-class and it is including knitted cloth and small product for fashion as well as cardigan, sweater, and jacket etc. unlike past recognition only with underwear and inner wear. To consider elasticity to be the best strength of knit wear, middle-aged women that form change is serious are wearing knit wear as clothes for going out, and this may be regarded as clothes action to be conscious of form than vogue. Thus, in this study, this researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women. This researcher tried to develop the design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women, after examining the theoretical background of knit wear, the bodily and mental feature of middle-aged women. Internal and external knit wear brand that middle-aged women prefer as the scheme for solving the problematic form of middle-aged women with knit wear. As the result first, to see the present situation of inland production enterprise of knit wear, almost all the brand companies are concentrating energies on widening age class. Second, middle-aged women become far off from the form which is regarded ideal form in modern society. Third, result that this researcher examined the brand of knit wear of middle-aged women is as follows : MORADO, Cartknit, Escalier. And, in foreign knit wear brand, ST John, Missoni, ESCADA. Fourth, as the result that this researcher did work manufacture for the supplement of form defect of middle-aged women, it has practical and active side, and off-time has high-class and elegant refined beauty.
  3. Kim, Young-In;Lee, Jee-Hyun 35
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study was to comparatively analyze the characteristics of traditional costume colors of Korea China Japan with quantitative methods. The range of this study was limited to the costume colors from 16th to 19th century. For this study 1333 color samples were collected by measuring with a spectrophotometer. The results of this study are as follows: Red, Yellow Red, Yellow and Purple Blue had been used in common for the traditional costume colors of Korea, China and Japan. Yellow of Korea, Purple Blue of China, Yellow Red of Japan showed the high frequency. Red, an asian preference color, had most frequently used in korean traditional costumes. Pale toned Yellow and Yellow Red, high saturated Red and low valued Purple Blue had been preferred for korean traditional costumes. The preferences of high saturated Red and low valued Purple Blue were based on the Five Element theory and the pale toned Yellow and Yellow Red were used with the preference of White and natural colors. In China the traditional costume colors had used with the Five Element theory also but they had preferred Purple Blue, deep & strong toned Red to Yellow Red and Yellow, Yellow Red, Purple and grayish colors had been frequently used in japanese traditional costumes. In the results of color distributions in $L^*a^*b^*$ color space, korean and chinese traditional costumes colors concentrated in some areas like Yellow, Yellow Red, Red and Purple Blue. Japanese costumes colors showed the even distribution with the diverse toned colors. Korean traditional costume colors corresponded with the Five Element theory rather than China and Japan. Japan had used the costume colors with the racial sensibility rather than conceptual color theory.
  4. Woo, Ju-Hyung;Park, Myung-Hee 45
    PDF KSCI
    The change into the information society converts people's daily lift into nomadic lifestyle, and this change of lifestyle needs to reinforce the portability in fashion. The purpose of this study is to know the historical diversion of the rallying system, characteristics and reason of this change after recognizing of the implication of fashion and portable methods. The carrying system from the primitive age to modern society was changed from use of body to designing potable equipments - belts, wrapping cloths, bags, pockets, etc. These are changed by modifying of the form of society and fashion. This change result from the development of technique, the entry of women in public affair, the change of life style, the impoverishment of nature. The carrying system of modern fashion means not only the spares in the clothing, but also a new attached system in which nomadic necessities are transformed or unified. The carrying system becomes one of the important details which designers cannot neglect in designing, and must be. developed with consideration of use and function.
  5. Suh, Mi-Young 60
    PDF KSCI
    This study analyzes the Baekche official costume system, including the dress, cap and belt systems, by relating documentary records with the results of excavations. The study shows that the system differed depending on the time. A system of dress based on official ranks was instituted during the region of King Goi in the third century. The rap amd belt systems were begun in the first half of sixth century The official costume system, as recorded in the Chinese history $Sus{\u{o}}$, included many subdivisions of cap colors, which followed belt colors. According to $Gudangs{\u{o}}$, dress and cap systems changed in the seventh century. The official costume consisted of a $jacket(j{\u{o}}gori)$, trousers(baji), and coat(po). The coat had wide sleeves and reached below knees. Its collar had straight neckline. Officials of all rank wore silk caps and belts of matching colors. Officials above sixth rank used silver flower decorations on their caps. Officials wore wide-crouch trousers and generally adjusted the hems of the trousers, but this practice stopped in the sixth century. Officials wore shoes or boots depending on occasion. From a historical viewpoint, Baekche is important for having been the first Korean kingdom to establish a government organization. The salient feature of the system of organization established in A.D. 260(the twenty-seventh year of the region of King Goi) was the application of different colors to identify different ranks.
  6. Choi, Kyu-Soon 74
    PDF KSCI
    In ancient China, Su(綬) was the ornament of the full dress. It had originated from tying the jade or another thing before Jen(秦:Qin) dynasty and it tied the imperial jade seal and the chop from Han dynasty. Su of Han dynasty was different in the inscape, colour, length and density according to the grade. And the shape was the straight line. But these phenomena were changed after Han dynasty. This study showed how it changed. To studying used the comparison method of literature records, paintings and archeological relics. It mostly studied imperial Su. Su of Han dynasty of the high grade was formed by Yeok, the circle type jade and Su(Su moaned whole Su, at the same time moaned the part of Su, too). Afterward, Yeok was changed into Small Su[小綬] and Su was changed into Big Su(大綬). Originally the circle type jade was connecting Yeok to Su, but it was changed into tying Small Su only. Su of Han dynasty used the four kinds of colour, but from Su(隋: Sui) dynasty used the six kinds of colour. Originally Su was interlacing, but it was changed into the silk fabric from Song[宋] dynasty. According to using silk fabric's Su, it was likely to disappear the system distinguishing the grade by length. And it kept the method of interlacing the reticulation in the low part of silk fabric's Su. So, after using silk fabric's Su, the system of the density was not about the main body but about the reticulation. Su was been used woven with supplementary golden wefts, too. The circle type jade was chiseled the dragon and cloud from Geum[金:Jin] dynasty. These not the pattern of silk fabrics.
  7. Lee, Woon-Young 83
    PDF KSCI
    In this era of ubiquitous service, a computing device has functions similar with human beings. It influences all major fields of human life, such as clothing, dieting and housing. In order to use the coordination functions of the magic mirror, which might be a basic part of clothing in the era of ubiquitous service, this study concentrates on product information that should be inputted in RFID chip in detail in order to exercise virtual fashion coordination. Information should be inputted in RFID chip to use magic mirror for fashion coordination, a direction for doing this was also suggested. After coding the suggested clothing items, virtual fashion coordination was implemented as a fashion illustration. This study is as following, First, sorts standard code for suitable coordination in 4 images and presented to a proof. Code denoted by 10 characters. Each code literal special quality marks by two characters and divided by season, image, fabric, item, rotor, five items. Item middle of characters of 10 code, when agree on article more than 8, coordination is enabled. Secondely, It is presented by coordination to dressing action picture by suitable coordination classified apart in whole occasions, and coordination method by wearer inclination is remembered wearer's dressing action picture to Magic mirror including layered look. Thirdly, wardrobe of Magic mirror clothes that always buy newly in magic mirror, is washing and clothes that do not take to wardrobe did to be controlled. Fourth, Wealth and schedule is suggested firster than wearer's dressing action.
  8. Yun, Ji-Young;Ha, Ji-Soo 95
    PDF KSCI
    This study examines the Korean traditional and characteristic coloring through the color of Korean traditional embroidery. This research gives the chance to establish the cultural identity of Korea and presents the aesthetic standard of color images. Also, practical use of Korean traditional colors through this study provide opportunities which develope cultural merchandise in the world. were chosen as the references to analyzed the Korean traditional colors through gungsu: court embroidery, buddhist embroidery, everyday embroidery and clothing embroidery. Because this book published in commemoration of '20th General Conference and 21th General Assembly of ICOM' in 2004, which presented excellence of Asian culture. The color of these works were divided by 'Pantone Solid Color Chips' which organized by CMYK color system and categorized by Obangsaek. 'Gungsu' had vivid and splendid color sense which used strong and bright colors and 'buddhist embroidery' had mild and mysterious feelings which used low saturation.'Everyday embroidery' used the red color group frequently and 'clothing embroidery' had brighter colors comparing to other embroidery groups. The 'Chung(blue)' group had diverse color tone rather than one-tone color. This means that Koreans prefer the 'Chung' and used it regularly, also this color symbolized the racial characteristics. Even though 'Whang(yellow)' was prohibited because the color for emperor, in the case of embroidery, there were a variety of yellow colors from 'gold' to pale yellow and grayish yellow. The arrangement of colors in 'gungsu', tone on tone, complementary and bicolore coloring was used mostly which presented a strong and elegant color sense. On the other side, 'buddhist embroidery' used tonal coloring which gave gentle and noble feeling. 'Everyday embroidery' presented separation and accented coloring which was the example of common people's humor and originality. In the case of 'clothing embroidery', there was dominant lightness, separation, tone on tone and camaieu coloring which added gorgeousness in Korean traditional clothing.
  9. Kim, Sun-Young;Choi, Young-Soon 113
    PDF KSCI
    In this study, about forty teaching materials have been analyzed in order to examine tight skirt sewing methodtreated in basic process in a college and a fashion related educational institution. The study objects limited with a belt, back centered zipper, and back double slits on a tight skirt, and used fifteen suitable teaching materials in this study. The first study result appeared that every single teaching material suggested the different way of wick adhesion which is used in zipper slit, back slit, and belt part when the skit has been manufactured in order to do a form of clothes well. Secondly, it is the case of a back slit part used for the purpose of both functionality of action and decoration, and it is the section which varies a sewing and cutting way according to seam room width of a back middle seam. However, the majority of teaching materials appeared by being selecting the way how it had cut an inseam of the back center by the both upper part of back slit. Finally, the result showed that it mentioned mainly only both sided zipper sewing method if it seems to be easy to treat the majority in a basic process even though use of a console zipper Is general on a zipper sowing way recently for several years. Also, two forms are used in the belt manufacturing, and they are based with a waist line. However, the teaching materials that were used in this study presented only a manufacture way of the straight line on the waist belt.
  10. Chun, Hei-Jung;Lee, Youn-Jeong 123
    PDF KSCI
    Christian Dior has been standing to a good position in fashion and make-up for a long time, and it has been growing up continuously. The purpose of this study was to find out data that a point of view on sensibility. So first, this study analyzed image components of Christian Dior fashion, then this study examined aesthetic characters of Christian Dior fashion. For researching the image of Dior based on an historical consideration of Dior, subjects were fixed in this study. 1) Analyzing image components of Dior fashion 2) Examining image characters of Dior fashion 3) Researching consumers understand how to image of Dior fashion. The study was theoretical and established method; using more than a graduate student-major in clothing and make up, survey$(2004.5\sim6.)$ and SPSS 10 program statistics method. As the results, in Dior fashion, this study analyzed the factors of shape, color, material and texture, and that indicated character of chic, classic, gorgeous and romantic image on the foundation of elegant beauty. As consumers understood that as a same image. By analyzing the image as an emotional side, it could be fundamental data of emotional marketing for Asian.
  11. Sung, Kwang-Sook 138
    PDF KSCI
    This study tried to research on clothing styles of show hostess in the cable television home-shopping network program. Especially, show hostess's clothing styles were classified into 5 sections according to selling products, that is baby goods, insured goods, underwear, bedclothes and beauty goods. item is examined 7 levels by texture, color, clothing item, fashion image, fashion trend, fashion type, and fashion silhouette. The results showed that significant correlations between show host's clothing and selling products. The another findings of this study is that show hostess's clothing is aimed at the taste of main consumer such as housewife. Conseguently this study reaffirms the importance of the shopping hostess's clothing influnce according to selling products's characteristics.
  12. Kim, Yun-Hee;Lee, Jae-Jung 148
    PDF KSCI
    The objective of this study is to consider the uniform as visual communication, and analyze the expression of symbol shown on the uniform design by the pattern by applying the visual symbol in the communication and operation of the meaning. Also, it is to construct the systematic modeling method of the expression of design symbol by the pattern of uniform in th e various fields. This study is to analyze the symbolic expression method of the uniform design by the pattern by suggesting the symbolic expression method as a frame through the visual symbolic approach of the uniform design and the analysis of semantic symbol according to that. As a result, there arose simplification and emphasis and a method of symbolic expression with the national flag, a conceptual factor characteristically in the sports uniform design. The characteristics of symbolic expression of uniform design were mainly used in the symbolic expression with the customary code and symbol. Also, the uniform in the enterprises were widely used in the expression of uniform with the suggestion and code by the color. As for the characteristics of symbolic expression shown on the event uniform design, the method of symbolic expression by the pattern of uniform was grasped differently asa result of symbolic expression through the image. The method of symbolic expression suggested on this study could be used on a basis of uniform design in the future. Accordingly, this study has a meaning of suggesting the methodology of uniform design that would be a parameter.