권호 표지

Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume

  • Bimonthly
  • /
  • 1229-6880(pISSN)
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  • 2287-7827(eISSN)

Domain

  • Culture/Arts/Sports ＞ Clothing Design
  • Human Ecology ＞ Clothing

Aim & Scope

한국복식학회 학술지 ‘服飾’은 복식전공분야의 학문적 교류를 통한 복식학 분야의 발전에 이바지함을 그 목적으로 하고 있습니다. 즉 각 전공분야의 정보를 신속하게 공유하여 복식 산업발전에 기여하며 패션산업 현장에서의 디자인을 비롯한 여러 분야의 연구에 실질적인 도움을 주고자 합니다. ‘服飾’ 학술지에는 복식사, 복식미학 및 패션디자인, 패션마케팅, 및 심리, 의복구성 및 텍스타일, 복식일반을 비롯한 복식 전반에 걸친 학자들의 연구 성과를 싣고 있습니다. ‘服飾’은 2003년부터 한국연구재단 등재학술지로 지정되었으며, 지금까지 연 10회 발행되던 학술지를 게재논문의 질적 향상을 위하여 2020년부터는 연 6회 발행하고 있습니다. 또한 논문 Full-Text등을 전산화하여 인터넷에서도 검색이 가능한 정보화사업을 하고 있습니다. The purpose of the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (JKSC), the academic journal of the Korean Society of Costume (KSC), is to contribute to the development and diversity of the study of costume by becoming a means to scholarly exchange. In other words, the goal is to contribute to the development of the fashion industry and to give practical assistance to various design-related research by prompt exchange of information from the various fields of costume studies. JKSC covers a broad spectrum of research outputs from the field of costume studies, such as the history of costume, dress aesthetics, fashion design, fashion marketing, psychology, clothing construction, and textiles. First published in 1977, JKSC has been listed on the Korean Citation Index (KCI) by the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF) since 2003. Once published as frequently as 10 times per year, the JKSC has, since 2020, been published six times per year in order to better promote the qualitative improvement of its academic papers. KSC is now in the process of informatizing a system to provide a range of online services, while its full-text electronic resources are already available online.

http://onkjournal.co.kr/sobis/ksc.jsp KSCI KCI

Volume 63 Issue 8

  1. Kwon, Hea Jin 1
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.001 PDF KSCI
    This study examines the processes and characteristics of modern Korean embroidery art from the beginning of Korean modern times to 1945 which was the year of independence from Japan. An objective basis is presented by the analysis of articles and illustrations from the press and publications of the corresponding times. The significance of this study is to research the modern Korean embroidery art, which connected traditional times with modern Korean culture in order to investigate its identity. Due to Korea's modern embroidery art being started in the Japanese colonial times, there are some limits in it because of it being influenced by Western modern embroidery art and Japanese embroidery design. However, modern Korean embroidery art expanded from the private space to public space such as schools, open lectures and exhibitions. It has also accepted diverse foreign embroidery forms, which have been commercialized and accepted as art. The embroidery craft as commerce and art has given women the chance to achieve economic independence and to improve their social status. Modern Korean embroidery was art for the modern woman who had been educated in academic art, as well as a liberal art for wealthy housewives. It was the foundation of economic independence for poor rural women. It can be concluded that Modern Korean embroidery art has been accepted and developed by women in modern times.
  2. Lee, Misuk 14
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.014 PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama's fashion style from a perspective of modernism and postmodernism. The method utilized in this study was first, to examine the properties of modernism and postmodernism. Next, we explored the types of role performance of the first ladies and the application of their fashion as an aid to their roles through the precedents of the research concerning modernism and postmodernism. The results of the study are as follows. First, there was a trend of formalism and anti-formalism. Jacqueline Kennedy made her public appearances wearing a formal dress in order to express the first lady's authoritarian figure of restrained elegance. The fashion of the first lady aspired to formalism. Meanwhile, Michelle Obama followed more of a free style by eschewing the typical formality of the first lady. She created diverse styles utilizing a variety of items, which were not interrupted by form or by using heterogeneous items. Second, there is a trend of elitism and populism. While Jacqueline Kennedy preferred only haute couture designers' costume in order to show the prestige and dignity of the upper class, Michelle Obama patronized unknown designers' clothing or mid-level casual brand goods that the public favors in order to interact with the public through her fashion. Third, while modernism regards totality or unity to be important, postmodernism puts an emphasis on the eclecticism by pursuing complexity and diversity through the deconstruction of an indigenous genre. In case of Jacqueline Kennedy, this tendency featured monotone clothing color, which presented a unified full set dress that excluded decoration. Michelle Obama, in contrast, mixed and matched formal dresses and a casual cardigan or felicitously mixed luxury brand or low to middle priced brand goods.
  3. Park, Gin Ah 27
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.027 PDF KSCI
    The study was aimed to develop men's working pants patterns through the computerized 3-D virtual clothing simulation system and to verify the effects of the 3-D simulated outfit by comparing it to the images of the actual outfits. The average body measurements of South Korean men aged between 30 and 39 used for the simulation in order to generate a 3-D virtual model and to realize outfits of men's working pants for the workers in the heavy industry in South Korea. And also the preliminary questionnaire survey results on certain aspects of the working pants such as type, detailed design preference and discomforting parts were taken into consideration. Both the simulated and real images of the developed working pants were compared in terms of the ease amount according to parts of the working pants, the position of seam lines, the appearance of darts and pleats, and the effects of the fabric surface according to expertise panels' subjective 5-point scale evaluation. The results throughout the study were (1) the basic working pants item worn by subject workers were the straight one pleated pants. The most discomforting parts of the working pants were in the order of body rise, thigh, hip, waist, pants hems and knee girth. (2) the drafting factors of pants patterns differed by the men's body features, which was related to the allocation of suppression amounts between waist and hip girths into darts and hip curve amounts on the waist line level of the pants. (3) the similarity of the virtually simulated and real images of men's working pants resulted in an average of 4.5 to the ease of appearance, 4.6 to the seam lines, 4.1 to the fabric surface effects in a 5-point scale, which means that the two were highly alike.
  4. Hong, Yun Jung;Kim, Young In 43
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.043 PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this research is to systemize the fashion digital storytelling by analyzing the communication method and its elements, and extracting the characteristics and processes of digital storytelling. Based on the previous study on the characteristics and types of storytelling the following things have been researched: 1) the process of digital storytelling in the communication process, 2) the concept and the feature of the academia of digital storytelling 3) storytelling in the document research. On the groundwork of the document research, we were able to sort out the various types, and formed a system of the features in the fashion digital storytelling cases, mainly in the four collections (Milan, Paris, London, New York) from 2000's to recent years of 2010. The types of fashion digital storytelling are episode type, narrative type, and creative type. The characteristics of each of the types are as follows. Firstly, the episode type communicates through the digital media based on the information or fact of the fashion designer brand. Secondly, narrative type communicates with the consumers using previous literature or an existing idea of the original cultural form that is rearranged in digital story expressed by the digital media. Lastly, creative type makes the designer's and consumer's susceptibility and creativity communicate through the newly made story, which expresses the unique originality of the designer. It seems that the cases and studies of using the fashion digital storytelling will increase because of its short history and lack of the case study. Fashion designer brands will show their brand image using the digital storytelling because they are able to better express originality, creativity and imagination of the fashion designer, which were factors that could not be conveyed through fashion alone.
  5. Choi, Yoo-Jin 58
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.058 PDF KSCI
    Steampunk is a term generally used for one of the S. F. subgenre in literature, arts, fashion styles, and lifestyles. This study clarifies formative characteristics as well as the meanings of steampunk fashion style based on its attributes in movies and animations. Attributes of the steampunk are blending time, blending technology, and introspection against science development. In order to have an objective research, this study researched frequency of the fashion item, color, accessory of the collected fashion image, and after interpreted that consequence. Men's steampunk fashion was composed of men's basic outfit such as shirts, vest, jacket, pants, and coats of the 19th century. Black color took up the largest proportion for color. In accessory, top hat, goggle, and steam-powered weapons, in order, were most commonly used. Women's steampunk fashion was composed of shirts and long one-piece dresses, long skirt simply applied 19th victorian style fashion. Yellow, brown, and black color took up the largest proportion of fashion color. In accessory, top hat, belt trimming, corset, and boots, in order, were most commonly used. It is the characteristics of the steampunk fashion that represents retro-future fashion, as it features steam-powered mechanic esthetics, a kind of DIY subculture and transcending division of nationality, class, and gender.
  6. Jin, Deok Soon;Kim, Jin Kyung;Song, Mi-Kyung 76
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.076 PDF KSCI
    This study is about 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' Jeoksam and Hansam in the early days of Joseon Dynasty. A study was done regarding the records of Jeoksam and Hansam in literature, the present state of the excavated 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam, and finally a deduction of the reason for the appearance of the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam. The width of front length of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing in the early days of Joseon Dynasty is 29.5~35 cm and the width of one breath of the sleeve is 29.5~35 cm. The width of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' is 9.5~16 cm and it is relatively big. Comparing to the width of one breath of the sleeve, it is almost 1:2.2~3.6 ratio. Therefore, when the sleeve was cut, the Mu was linked in order to save fabric the gusset of sleeve had to be folded and turned, and finally it became asymmetric. As a result of the above consideration, since the width of upper garments of $16{\sim}17^{th}$ century was big, the wearing of short tops of Jeoksam or Hansam without side vent as a small 'triangle-Mu' was uncomfortable. Because of this reason, the size had no option but to become bigger. So, during the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ century, a period where mass production of fabric was difficult, the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' type was considered to be a reasonable cutting method. After the middle of $17^{th}$ century, it can be estimated that 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing disappeared according to the narrow aspect of clothing type.
  7. Han, Ye-Ji;Hwang, Sun-Jin;Chun, Ho-Kyung 90
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.090 PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study was to explore how experiential factors in sportswear stores influenced store satisfaction, brand preference, and purchase intention among potential consumers, and to reveal the moderating effects of impulsive buying. The subjects of this study were 306 male and female adults in their 20s and 30s, who had visited sports brand stores within the past year. To analyze the data, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, structural model analysis and path analysis were performed. The results of this study were as follows. First, there is a strong relationship between store satisfaction and experiential factors in sportswear apparel stores. All experiential factors significantly influenced store satisfaction in a positive direction. Second, consumers' store satisfaction positively influenced on brand preference. Third, consumers' store satisfaction had positive influences on their purchasing intention. Fourth, consumers' impulsive buying tendency showed significant moderating effect on the experiential factors. Consumers with low level of impulsive buying tended to be influenced more by 'think', 'relate', and 'sense' experiential factors on their store satisfaction. However, consumers with a high level of impulsive buying tendency revealed that they were more likely to be influenced by 'act' and 'feel' experiential factors.
  8. Lim, Ji-Ah;Kim, Min-Ja 106
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.106 PDF KSCI
    Compared to traditional fashion design, modern fashion design is used as a means that creates original and multiple types of beauty beyond fixed and standardized concept and form. Overlapping technique is the most suitable means to shed classical, authoritative and conservative form and it enables diverse borrowing and quotation for creation. This study aimed to analyze overlapping techniques that are expressed in art, architecture and fashion to find out its characteristics in the field of fashion. The result of this study is as follows. Based on theories of visual perception and advance research, types of overlapping technique were classified as pile, repetition, penetration and transparency. When comparing overlapping techniques in modern fashion with those of painting and architecture, fashion was distinctive in that it had movement and communicativeness through overlapping of fashion and the human body. Therefore, the overlapping technique has wide application and adaptation and can cause specialty, movability, communicativeness and collectivity, which can arouse psychological inspiration.
  9. Choi, Yeon-Woo 125
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.125 PDF KSCI
    Soek(Xi) was the highest ranked shoe that was worn with the primary formal dress in East Asian countries including ancient Korea and China. This article examined Joseon's Seok as discussed in previous studies, and it explored factors such as the wearers' status, wearing situations, its morphology, its materials, and its colors in the Great Han Empire period (1897~1910), and then extracted three morphological characteristics of the Korean Seok to examine its origin. The results of the study are as follows. For women, the Seok in the Great Han Empire period was worn with Won-sam(圓衫) and No-eui(露衣) as well as Jeok-eui(翟衣), and hence its range of wearing was extensive. Also, red Seok was worn with deep red colored Dae-sam(大衫)-styled Jeok-eui in the Joseon period(1392~1897), and blue Seok with deep blue Jeok-eui in the Great Han Empire period. This suggests the possibility that wearing of deep blue Jeok-eui occurred after 1906 in terms of the use of blue Seok. As for its morphology, its leg-less form was maintained into the late Joseon period, and there were no great changes in its name. The characteristics of the Korean Seok's morphological structure consisted of a shoe leg, the wood-less bottom and pearl ornament. As a result of the examination of the origin of those characteristics, it has been clarified that the form in which Gu, Eok, Jun(純), are attached in the structure with a shoe leg originated from the combination of Hwa(靴) and Li(履) after the two types of shoes were alternately worn in the Song (宋) period. Also, it was confirmed that the woodless bottom appeared between the periods from Wei Jin Northern and Southern Dynasties(魏晉南北朝) to Sui(隋), and the pearl ornament occurred in the Jin(金) period.
  10. Lee, Dal A;Moon, SunJeong;Chung, Sham Ho 143
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.143 PDF KSCI
    The outdoor apparel market has been growing very fast recently, and consumers are spending more time doing outdoor activities for their leisure. As the outdoor apparel market is growing, it has started to combine functionality with style to provide more diverse designs and colors for all ages. The increase of interest in heathy life-styles, outdoor activities, and leisure has lead to a rise in demand for outdoor apparel. Now outdoor apparel have become a part of people's daily casual wear in addition to being worn for outdoor activities. This study is focused on a outdoor jacket design which is used as down-alternative material and the purpose of this study is to design outdoor jackets using a down-alternative fabrics that improve the thermal and lightweight effects for clothing comfort, and increase the satisfaction of wearing down-alterative outdoor jacket. The research of this paper was done by using a questionnaire survey. The survey was used to examine the male customers' outdoor activities, purchase behaviors, place, expense and design preferences. Then, down-like fabric was used to make the prototype down jacket and its design, function, and satisfaction with wearing compared with other brands down jacket products were analyzed. Although duck down fabrics are representative of outdoor jackets, they have many problems that need to be solved such as feathers falling out or its vulnerability to moisture. They have competitive prices compared to down jackets so down-alternative jackets are able to gain more proportion of its market share.
  11. Choi, Jin Woo;Lee, Yuri 156
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.156 PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this research is to scrutinize the cyclist's consumer behavior by analyzing the eWOM information search behavior of cycle-wear according to benefits sought and involvement. The research was conducted through an online survey and the respondents were 291 men who wore cycle-wear and searched information via online. The results of this research are as following. First, the benefits sought from wearing cycle apparel are composed of five sub-factors such as, ideal body figure, brand ostentation, comfort ease, personality, and economic feasibility. In addition, the cycle-wear involvement consisted of two sub-factors: cycling involvement and fashion involvement. Second, the eWOM information search behavior of cyclists was different depending on the benefits sought by the cyclists. When the cyclists pursued ideal body figure they searched more information of design and color, while cyclists put more weight on the information of design, color, and brand when they sought brand ostentation. Moreover, the valence and the type of the information were dissimilar depending on the benefits sought. Third, the sub-factors of eWOM information search behavior affected the eWOM effect distinctively. The price information was the only factor that influenced the eWOM effect among the contents of the information. The valence of the information influenced the eWOM effect, and the effect of positive information was stronger than negative information. Additionally, the subjective information also affected the eWOM effect. Lastly, the effect of the benefits sought influencing the eWOM information search behavior varied by the difference of the cycle-wear involvement. For example, when they are both high in the involvement there were various benefits sought affecting the eWOM information search behavior. However, when only the cycling involvement was high, and they pursued personality, the price information was not important to them.
  12. Yum, Jung Ha;Cho, Woo Hyun 171
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.171 PDF KSCI
    This is a study on the military costumes of Hunryeondogam, which was the center of Five Military Camps in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty. I confirmed the characteristics and system of military costumes of Hunryeondogam by document research and positive research. The military organization of Hunryeondogam was comprised of the high-ranking military officers such as Hunryeondaejang, Junggun, Cheonchong, Byeoljang and Gukbyeoljang, the mid and low ranking military officers such as Pachong, Chogwa and soldiers. And the military costume of Hunryeondogam included Gapju, Yoongbok and Goonbok for military officers and all kinds of military uniforms for soldiers. Imjin war and ritualized military ceremonies in the era of peace had influence on the military costume. Officers, for example, were wearing Dangap and soldiers were wearing Cheolgap or Pigap that depended on the branch of the army. Politically, kings in the mid and the late Joseon had organized military organizations to strengthen their royal authority. I think that the policy can be effectively seen by observing the military costume system. The qualitative differences in cloth materials and the presence or absence of patterns of Goonbok, the qualitative differences in the decoration of Jeonrip and the presence or absence of Yodae were able to distinguish the identity and the rank. An assumption can be made that these things could have been affected by social causes, such as frequent trips of the King and stable society. This cause could be influence on substitute Yoongbok with Goonbok that from the low ranking military officers to the high ranking military officers of Hunryeondogam. The societal changes in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty are reflected on the military costumes system of Hunryeondogam.
  13. Lee, Keum Hee 188
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.188 PDF KSCI
    This study aims to find out factors of historical specialty and cultural ethnicity that influenced the formation of Spanish fashion as well as examine the characteristics of Spanish fashion by comparing its historical costumes, such as folk costume and court costume with contemporary fashion of major Spanish designers in the 20th century. Documental investigation and analysis of visual materials were used as research method. The study results are as follows: The major factors that affected the characteristics of Spanish fashion in the history include the geographical features, invasion of foreign nations, cultural heritage of various ethnic groups, strengthening of the national power, advancement of international trading through the newly developed routes, and influence of religions such as Christianity, Islam, and Judaism. Featuring the coexistence of variety and heterogeneity, the ethnicity reflected in the culture harmoniously embraces various spirits such as conflict and coexistence, individualism and collectivism or regionalism, and exclusion and tolerance of religions. In addition, the characteristics in the cultural phenomena include passion, sensuousness, individualism, sense of reality, sense of chic, and the people-centeredness. The basic Characteristics of Spanish fashion include the sensuality of excessive zeal, decorativeness of gorgeous handicrafts, exoticism of people-centered variety, extreme contrast of harmony, touching artistry of chic, and fantastic surrealistic wits.