• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.287-301
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• 2008

In order to develop a new depigmenting agent, extracts were obtained from 60 native plants and their antimelanogenic activities were screened by evaluating the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase which is a major enzyme responsibles for the melanin synthesis. The extracts of Trichosanthes kirilowii fruits, Phyllostachys bambusoides inner films (BIF), Clerodendrum trichotomum leaves, and Acer okamotoanum leaves showed relatively high inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and their $IC_{50}$ values were $50{\sim}100{\mu}g/mL$. The extract of BIF inhibited melanin synthesis of B16F10 melanoma cells by 52%, which was the highest among those of various extracts. Furthermore, the effect of BIF extract is 10% higher than that of arbutin (42%), a popular depigmenting agent in Korea. Ten compounds having antimelanogenic activity were isolated from the BIF extract by solvent extraction and chromatography. These compounds were identified as phenolic derivatives: SM701, SM702, SM703, and BPR211 were hydroquinone derivatives; SM707 a gallic acid derivative; SM704, SM705, SM706, SM708 and SM709 ferulic acid derivatives. The free radical scavenging activities of these compounds were measured and compared to those of hydroquinone and vitamin C. The $SC_{50}$ values scavenging 50% DPPH of SM702 and SM709 were $60{\sim}70{\mu}M$ similar to that of hydroquinone and those of SM701 and SM708 were $30{\sim}40{\mu}M$ slightly lower than that of vitamin C. These results suggest the presence of components having high antioxidant activity in the BIF extract. The SM709, identified as 1,2-O-diferulylglycerol, inhibited the activities of tyrosine hydroxylase and dopa oxidase by 18 and 60%, respectively. The SM709 also inhibited the melanin synthesis of B16F10 melanoma cells by 62% and this was the highest antimelanogenic activity among those obtained from the various purified compounds. Therefore, antimelanogenic activity of the BIF extract was concluded to be due to both inhibition of DOPA oxidase and antioxidant activity.