• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.11-24
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• 2020

This research examines pattern production of 3 men's costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men's coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men's costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; 'Drawing diagram-Primary pattern drafting by measurement value-3D virtual fitting-Checking the fit-Modification and complement'. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.75-84
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to present a good pants pattern for boys aged 13-18 by comparing and analyzing the pants pattern according to lower body shape. And through it, this study was to provide basic data for pants production considering male student body shape. The pattern of this study used the industrial type Lee Hee-chun pattern and DC Suite Program for 3D virtual simulation. As a result of the appearance evaluation, there was a significant difference between the patterns in most items. Type 2 was rated highly, followed by Type 4, Type 3, and Type 1. Type 1 required correction of the length of the pants and the amount of crotch part, while type 3 required adjustment of the pants in the knee area. Type 4 required correction of pattern drawing method of crotch width, thigh circumference, and knee circumference. This pattern method was evaluated as suitable for slender body shape. This study suggests a pants pattern system suitable for adolescent boys by reflecting the body shape characteristics of adolescent boy with a change of body shape. It is expected that this will meet the increasing demand for fitting. In this study, we have examined 3D virtual simulation, not actual wear experiment, so it will be necessary to investigate the difference through actual clothing experiment for adolescent boys.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.49-62
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• 1993

The purpose of this research was to utilize of Pattern Design System(P.D.S) by using AM-300 The conclusion were like these : 1. A coat of basic pattern was selected by design sketch. 2. The basic pattern was input into computer by digitizing. 3. The basic pattern was change into designed shape by using various skills. This system were enabled to draw straight lines, curves, delete lines, sections of lines, extend lines, cut pattern into sections, measure line or section reproduce whole pattern shape of section, rotate and mirror pattern and complete patterns. 4. Automatic grading of finished master pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of basic pattern. 5. Production pattern added seam allowance, not-ches was generated by P.D.S menu option. 6. Finished pattern design was plotted out 100% and 20% size by AM-300 Plotter. This results will be the basic materials to develop the CAD SYSTEM if some problems were improve. Furthermore, the utilization of P.D.S is expected to be developing in pattern making process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.9
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• pp.1478-1486
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• 2008

The human body composed of concave and convex curvatures, and the current 3D scanning technology which involves inherent measurement errors make it difficult to extract distinct curvature plot directly. In this study, a method of extracting the clear curvature plot and its application to the cycling pants design were proposed. We have developed the ergonomic pattern from the 3D human body reflecting cycling posture. For the ergonomic design line on the 3D human body, the 3D information on the lower part of four male bodies with flexed posture was analyzed. The 3D scan data of four subjects were obtained using Cyberware. As results, the iteration of the tessellated shell was executed 100 times to obtain optimized curvature plots of the muscles on the body surface, and the boundaries of the curvature plots were applied to the design lines. Maximum(Max-pattern) and mean curvature plots(Mean-pattern) were adopted in the design line of the cycling pants, and performance of those lines was compared with that of conventional princess line(Con-pattern). The average error of total area and length in the 2D pattern developed from the 3D flexed body surface in this study were very minimal($4.58cm^2$(0.19%) and 0.15mm(0.46%)), which was within the range of tolerable limits in clothing production. The pattern obtained from the flexed body reflecting cycling posture already included the contraction and extension of the cycling skin, so that the extra ease for movement and good fit was not need to be considered.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.39-48
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• 2011

There still is a limitation in the usage of 3D clothes model in the production line due to the lack of compatibility between 3D modeling software, and its accurate 2D pattern making software, especially for free formed dress with tight fitted zone and draped part. In this study, obstacles in the 3D direct dress design process was overcome by solving the compatibility among each step of 3D virtual design process as well as adopting 3D-2D direct pattern development program called 2C-AN. Efficacy of making 2D pattern from 3D dress design using 2C-AN program developed by the authors was examined during the course of actual dress making process. Accurate ease over the fitted dress part was examined by 3D scanning technology, and the actual appearance of the draped part was compared with the simulation image of dress model. It was confirmed that the entire 3D design process and direct 2D pattern development proposed in this study was accurate enough to use in the 3D design process.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.109-121
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• 2012

This study aims at developing ergonomics patterns for the sleeve of structural firefighting protective clothing through 3D motion analysis in order to ensure efficiency and safety of firefighters who are exposed to harmful environment at work. A new research pattern was developed by applying the total results of 3D motion analysis, changes of body surface length measurements, and 2D data on 3D body shape analysis on the size 3 patterns of the existing coat sleeve. For the sleeves, we used the body surface length of the range of shoulder's flexion and the joint angle of the range of wrist's ulnar deviation. And for the production of structural firefighting protective clothing using the research pattern, we recruited a recognized producer of structural firefighting protective clothing designated by KFI. Unlike everyday clothes, structural firefighting protective clothing should be able to fully protect the wearers from the harmful environment that threatens their lives and should not cause any restrictions on their movement. Therefore, the focus of research and development of such protective clothing should be placed on consistent development of new technologies and production methods that will provide protection and comfort for the wearer rather than production cost reduction or operational efficiency. This study is meaningful as it applied 3D motion analysis instead of the existing methods to develop the patterns. In particular, since 3D motion analysis enables the measurement of the range of motion, there should be continuous research on the development of ergonomics patterns that consider workers' range of motion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.123-134
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• 2023

Fashion design, CAD production, and the use of digital software can shorten the time and production processes in the fashion industry, but there are still many limitations in how to similarly express textile textures. Having this awareness, how to implement the visual effects of textile texture similar to that of the real world in the virtual world is one of the major exploration tasks in the fashion industry. Therefore, this study aims to analyze examples of embroidery techniques in Christian Dior collections and explore how embroidery techniques in 3D CLO fashion design can express the texture of real clothes more similarly by creating virtual works through 3D samples and 3D CLO software. First, the analysis criteria and theoretical basis of this study were derived through a literature review on fashion textile embroidery techniques, identifying types and characteristics of embroidery techniques, and classifying them into 12 types. Second, photos of the Dior 2017-2023 SS/FW Ready-to-Wear collections were collected and analyzed through the case analysis VOGUE site. Third, it presents the production of 3D CLO works by deriving a method of implementing embroidery techniques through the design of sample textile embroidery techniques using substances 3D sample software. The study's has some limitations. First, in 3D CLO fashion design, the needle gap for embroidery must be widened to see the thread pattern. Second, by reducing the number of needles, it is necessary to imitate the actual embroidery effect. Third, it is judged that it will be effective to lengthen the thread and adjust the thickness of the thread. Fourth, the thickness of the entire embroidery pattern must be increased to enable a three-dimensional texture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.106-122
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• 2021

This study confirmed the mechanical properties of an auxetic re-entrant pattern prepared using 3D printing technology and its composite fabric with neoprene for the production of functional auxetic patterns/textiles for safety shoes. Samples were prepared by the tilt angle of a re-entrant pattern of 0°, 30°, 45°, 60° and 90°, and then analyzed using Poisson's ratio, bending, compression, and tensile properties. A 3D printed auxetic re-entrant pattern (3DP-RE) and its composite fabric (3DP-RE/NP) showed a negative Poisson's ratio in all tilting angles that indicated auxetic properties. The results of the bending property shown that strength of 3DP-RE/NP was 1.5 times lower than NP, but the strain improved 2.0 times. It was confirmed that the deformation of 3DP-RE/NP is possible with a low load. Each sample type of compression behavior indicated similar regardless of the tilting angles; in addition, the compression toughness of 3DP-RE/NP increased 1.2 times compared with NP. In the case of tensile properties, 3DP-RE and 3DP-RE/NP were affected by the tilting angle, samples with 90° (the opposite of load direction) showed best tensile property and toughness. 3DP-RE/NP indicated improved bending, compression, and tensile properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.59-66
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks pattern of elderly women aged over 60s by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, By using 3D Virtual Garment Simulation, new slacks pattern considered elderly women was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows, front waist girth W/4+2+1.5, back waist girth W/4+1.5+0.5, front hip girth H/4+0.75, back hip girth H/4+1.5, front crotch extension H/16-0.5, back crotch extension H/8-1.3, front dart amount 2 and back dart amount 1.5. Second, according to the results of the new slacks pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new slacks pattern is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, new slacks pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.