• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.320-333
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to find out differences of visual evaluation according to perceiver's gender, clothing silhouette, and body exposure of the lingerie look. Subjects were 246 college males and females in Seoul. The visual evaluation of the lingerie look was divided into four image dimensions: elegance, individuality, fascination, and activity. Silhouette had significant influences on the perception of elegance and activity. The hourglass silhouettes were evaluated more elegant and active than the tubular silhouettes. The body exposure had significant influences on the evaluation of elegance, individuality, fascination, and activity. The shoulder and the back exposure were estimated high in fascination, the breast exposure low in elegance, and the waist exposure high in individuality and activity. Individuality, fascination, and activity had interaction effects by perceiver's gender and body exposure. Males estimated the waist exposure to be more fascinating than females, and females estimated the breast exposure to be less active than males. There were significant interaction effects in evaluating the 4 image dimensions according to the silhouette and body exposure. The shoulder and the leg exposure of the hourglass silhouettes were estimated more elegant than those of the tubular silhouettes. Dimensions of clothing image which influenced on preference of lingerie look were different between males and females.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.91-108
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• 2017

Interests in 3D virtual clothing technology and its application in online shopping malls are increasing with the advent of the Fourth Industrial Revolution. Most studies on 3D virtual clothing, however, are focused on observing drapes or ease of virtual clothing depending on fabric properties of representative clothing items. Therefore, the purpose of this study is: first, to determine if current input of typical material characteristics in 3D CLO are sufficient to formulate virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes; second, to determine if subjective appearance evaluation matched physical shape characteristics of those skirts. In this study, appearances of typical cotton, wool, silk, rayon, and polyester skirts with different front and back pattern were compared between actual and virtual clothing depending on fabric materials. Subjective appearance evaluation was conducted by 7 experts regarding similarity between actual and virtual clothing with a 5-point scale. For objective evaluation of the both types of skirt shape, degree of roundness at the cross section, displacement of side seam, position of back waistline, and the number of folds at the skirt back were observed. In the case of cotton and wool, not the subjective appearance evaluation as well as shape characteristics of virtual skirts were well matched to the actual shape of skirts with a few material inputs. However, current material inputs for silk, rayon and polyester were insufficient to cover material differences in formation of virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.349-361
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to develop bodice basic patterns fitted on different body types of adult women. To meet this purpose, first, human bodies were measured using tight fitting technique and classified based on the shapes of upper trunk. The subjects were 214 women $20{\sim}39$ years of age. For the measurement of female upper trunk, tight fitting technique was utilized. The development of figures of upper trunks were obtained from women. These development of figures were then digitized and analysed using the PAD system. A total of 155 measurements were taken from each of the development of figures. then, 32 measurements were selected for the further analysis. As complimentary data, 22 direct body measurements using an anthropometric method and 23 body measurements using a photographic method from the side view pictures of the participants were also obtained. The results and discussions of this study are as follows: Using the body measurements from the development of figures, a factor analysis and a cluster analysis were conducted. As a result, the body types were classified into 5 different types, which differ in terms of bust volumes, shoulder slopes, shoulder tilts, back silhouettes, body axises. The prominent characteristics of each type are as follows: The first type has a large bust volume. The second type has a right figure. The third type has a rounded back silhouette. The fourth type has a back silhouette of scapular coming backward. Finally the fifth type has a shoulder tilted forward.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.471-487
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to analyze changes to body measurements and silhouettes after wearing an early 19th century women's corset. Two types of corsets were tested. Changes in body size and silhouette were compared based on the levels of tightening strength of the corset. The tightening strength was adjusted in 4 steps by making the length of back fastening string 10-40 cm shorter than the standard. The silhouette was compared with the front silhouette and the side silhouette. The results were as follows. After wearing the experimental 19th century corsets, the chest circumference and front interscye length increased. However, the chest circumference did not increase proportionally to the tightening strength. The underbust circumference, waist circumference, and back interscye length also decreased. The waist width was decreased to create a slim front silhouette. The change in the body silhouette differed depending on the style of the experimental corset. The experimental corset made with the six-piece torso pattern changed the posture so that the shoulders were pulled back and the chest was pushed forward. The experimental corset with the side bodice pattern resulted in the subject's shoulders reclining backward and the chest and abdomen extending forward. The results of this study show that women's body sizes and silhouettes could be changed by wearing the early 19th century corsets, but the changes in body size and silhouette vary depending on the wearer's individual body type or corset style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.741-751
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• 2009

In order to design and develop the various silhouette of pants pattern for standardized pants patterns, this study is to classify the pants style by the silhouette and to characterize each pants pattern which are classified. Recent 37 ready-made pants patterns of various style were collected in order to analyze their silhouette from April to July 2007. Measurement of each region of the pants pattern were compared and analysed. After analyse the standard deviation, coefficient of variance, minimum, maximum, range about the measurement of each region of the pants pattern, major pattern design factors were extracted. Five major factors are the angle of center front line and center back line, the crotch extension, the position of center back line against center front line, the curvature of center back line, and amount of waist dart. As a result, pants style were grouped as the culottes, formal, basic and tight style after considering the extracted design factors, and analysing correlation, degree of dispersion of the measurement by part. As the silhouette of pants classification from culotte to tight, the fits are closer to the figure, crotch depth increases, crotch extensions are shorter, and angle of the center back increases. The shape of the connected front and back center lines is U-shape for culotte and is closer to V-shape as the silhouette becomes tight.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.15-27
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to perform research of ecology concepts expressed in fashion and to propose a new ecology fashion design based on the results. As a specific research method, first, to determine the concept of ecology, the contents related to ecology were extracted and organized through literature research, and then a fashion collection research was conducted to acquire basic design data, such as silhouettes, materials, details, and colors. From WGSN, and a total of 57 images were selected and used as basic data for the design suggestions. As a result of collecting the collection images, it was found that cotton or denim fabrics were mainly used, and in particular, the frequency of use was high mainly for bright tones. The use of chambray, lace, and wrinkles, was also frequent, and the use of expression techniques using burn-out, bleach, and bleaching effects or parts, or entire dyeing was often noticeable. The colors showed neutral and pastel-toned characteristics, and the silhouette was mainly composed of long silhouettes centered on maxi, such as a top or calf based on the knee, rather than a mini. Fabrics for the final designs were linen and sappan wood, and they were used for the dye and red was used as the overall color. The silhouettes were simplified, and care was taken to prevent unnecessary waste, such as paper or materials, from being generated during the production stage. We tried to achieve the purpose of eco-logy by refraining from excessive trimming, except for essential subsidiary materials, such as zippers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.123-143
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• 1994

The aim of this research analyze women's preference in types and formation of skirt lines by their ages and body shapes. The aim of this study is for women to select clothing which can cover their shortcomings and to present the practical and positive data about skirt design to clothing maker. The results of this research are summarized as followed : Tight skirt is the beest preferred and flare is the next. Narred silhouettes re preferred about th width of each kind of skirt, but as for the gored and flare skirts middle-width silhouettes are preferred. Preferred lengths of the skirts are different from ages; the middle like minilines, the thirties like miniline, the thirties and the forties natural line, and the fifties midiline, and according to body shapes, the skinny or standard shape like natural line and the fat midiline. All age prefer natural waist line, and twenties and the skinny like high waist line and belt compared to fifties and the fat. All ages like dart-treated skirt waist and wrinkle-decoration with narrow vertical lines or tuck-decoration with narrow horizontal line. White and blue are preferred colors of skirts in spring and summer, the skinny and the standard like blue, whereas the fat like black. All ages like soft materials and one-colored skirts without patterns Adult women like jipper to open waist of a skirt. Most of them like back positioned one, but fifties and the fat prefer side positioned ones.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.140-158
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• 1999

The purposes of this study are to examine the characters of the lower body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks pattern on the base of four difference body shapes. The lower body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouettes. The slacks patterns were based on the lower body shape characters and resulted in followings. In “Type 1” of the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(2.5㎝) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.5㎝+dart(3.5㎝). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-0.5㎝ due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. In the experimental pattern of “Type 2” with prominent hips, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0㎝ and 2.0㎝ separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+1.0㎝+fold(2.0㎝), the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.1㎝+dart(6.5㎝), the front hip girth H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. In “Type 3” with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(4.5㎝) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+dart(3.0㎝). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.5㎝-0.5㎝. In “Type 4” with prominent abdomen and hips, considered were ① the increased front fold amount due to the abdominal protrusion, ② the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and ③ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5㎝+2.0㎝+fold(5.0㎝), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5㎝-2.0㎝+dart(4.0㎝), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.30-46
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• 2018

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.