• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.4
• /
• pp.38-57
• /
• 2017

Traditional costume in Indonesia represents identity of a person and it displays the origin and the status of the person. Where culture and religion are fused, the traditional costume serves one of the most functions in rituals in Bali. This research aims to analyze the characteristics of Balinese costumes by focusing on the Legong dance costume. Quantitative research was performed using 332 images of Indonesian costumes and 210 images of Balinese ceremonial costumes. Qualitative research was performed by doing field research in Puri Saba, Gianyar and SMKN 3 SUKAWATI(Traditional Art Middle School). The paper illustrates the influence and structure of Indonesian traditional costume. As the result, focusing on the upper wear costume showed that the ancient era costumes were influenced by animism. They consist of tube(kemben), shawl(syal), corset, dress(terusan), body painting and tattoo, jewelry(perhiasan), and cross. The Modern era, which was shaped by religion, consists of baju kurung(tunic) and kebaya(kaftan). The Balinese costume consists of the costume of participants and the costume of performers. Bali dancing is grouped into Wali dance(sacred), Bebali dance(theatrical), and Balih-balihan dance(entertainment). The Legong dance is included in the Balih-balihan dance, and its costume developed from 1920 until present. The characteristics of Legong dance costumes are 'Theatrical,' 'Angelic,' 'Charming,' and 'Decorative.' In conclusion, the balance of religion, culture, and art gives a unique trait in Bali. The Balinese social system, which is based on Hinduism, has influenced art and its function. This relationship creates a strong structure to the Balinese ceremonial costume, especially the Legong dance costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.3
• /
• pp.99-114
• /
• 2017

The uniqueness of Bali is inseparable from its culture and religion. Embedded in the cultural environment, textiles become one of the most important aspects in Balinese life as it is used as a medium in sacred ceremonies. Balinese textiles are made and used under special conditions according to Hindu teaching. This paper aims to observe the aesthetics of Balinese sacred cloths that are seen in their techniques, colors, and patterns. Quantitative research included in this study is based on 261 images taken from literature review and Museums. Field research was done in eastern part of Bali. This paper has divided the era between ancient and modern times. The ancient era before the 20th century used textiles for religious purposes. Modern era started from the colonialization period by the Dutch in Bali during 1910-1942 added economic values to the textiles. The independence of Indonesia in 1945 created Balinese textiles as a unifying value as one of the identity of Indonesia. The techniques are classified as Weft Ikat, Double Ikat, weave with Supplementary Weft, and Prada. The colors of the ancient era are 'fixed' with the restriction of the colors red, black, and white. The colors of modern era are 'festive' with combination of yellow, green, blue, and purple. The characteristics of patterns are geometric, natural, human, and animal groups. Field research in this paper observes Klungkung Village that produces Endek and Songket cloths. The aesthetics of Endek cloth is 'royal statement' and Songket cloth is a 'cultural heritage.' Nusa Penida Island produces Cepuk cloths and is a 'protective guardian.' Satria sub-district produces Prada cloths and appears to be an 'opulence charm.' Lastly, Tenganan Village produces Geringsing cloth which possesses a 'legendary legacy.' To sum up, Balinese sacred cloth essence is a balance of tradition and modern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.7
• /
• pp.1215-1226
• /
• 1997

Textiles in Bali have traditionally played a vital role in the social economic and religious life of the people. Textiles defined the status of the individual in term of both costume and wealth. Use of the various textiles is in Balinese tradition dictated primarily by rules of the Hindu-Balinese faith. Cloths and clothing are employed in worship of God and the ancestors. Gold songket patterned textiles are perceived as symbol of wealth and prestige and provide a fitting display of affluence at important cerenlonial events. The specialized pieces of clothing, temple banners and hangings are unique to each tribal group ranging from weft -patterned textiles in Bali. The impact of Indian ideas and techniques was important in the field of textiles, and many of the characteristics in Bali's fabric design derived from Hindu-Buddhist mythology that has furnished subject-matter for songket textile art. The purpose of this study is to examine the background of Balinese culture and to define the characteristics of Hindu-Balinese textiles. The songket textile design also analyzes by examing the techniques of songket weaving and the meaning of design, pattern, and motif. Many design and motifs convey important messages significant only to those familiar with the particular social religious principle of people who have produced them. It is only by seeing cloths in their cultural context that we can begin to understand their true value and meaning.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.27 no.3
• /
• pp.264-273
• /
• 2019

Fashion as a field of cultural studies is a very complex field that is very interesting to discuss, especially in Indonesia as the very rich country in cultures and past traditions. This research will discuss the development of fashion in Bali, one area that is opulent in its cultures. Based on the research conducted by today's fashion development, Bali is still strongly influenced by factors inherited from traditional values that exist in the Balinese culture. This research is conducted by applying the qualitative method with the ethnography approach to unravel any factor in Bali so that it becomes the foundation and triggers the rapid development of fashion by still maintaining the values of the tradition. Considering that the values of tradition as a whole have a good impact on the preservation of the natural balance and various factors that exist in society, whether these factors still exist in other regions of Indonesia and they are possible to be developed in various regions of Indonesia. So hopefully the development of fashion in Indonesia as a whole can maintain the local content that characterizes the Indonesian Nation and have a positive impact on the balance of nature and also to the community in Indonesia and the world culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.7
• /
• pp.34-49
• /
• 2016

The ancient 'sacred cloths' of Indonesia have diverse characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles, focusing on 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts. The first part analyzes the creation period, religious importance, region where the cloths are found, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The second part focuses on the textile-making techniques and the ritual patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' This research is the second paper. This research analyzes 225 Indonesian sacred cloth examples chosen for their religious function in ceremony, and reviews 10 books and 8 research papers. Field research was done in the Museum of Bali, the Indonesian Museum of Textiles, and nine weaving production houses in eastern Bali. Indonesian sacred cloths express their cultural philosophy and function through production techniques, colors, techniques, and visual patterns. The 'sacred cloth'-making techniques are classified as Batik, Prada, and Ikat. The regions that contribute to the textile production determine what patterns show up on the cloths. Sumatran patterns are philosophical, lavish, and prestigious. Bornean patterns are barbaric and prestigious. Balinese patterns are complex, decorative, warm, festive, calm, and aristocratic. Javanese patterns are symbolic and repetitive. Celebes patterns are artistic and simple. Nusa Tenggara patterns are symbolic and narrative. The forms shown on the textiles, whether geometric, human and animal, natural objects, or abstract patterns, determine how to classify the varied patterns. As a result, ancient Indonesian sacred cloths characteristics portray Indonesian identity as Bhinneka Tunggal Ika(Unity in Diversity).