• Title/Summary/Keyword: Baroque fashion

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The Aesthetic of Baroque Costume Focused on the Gilles Deleuze's 'Le Pli' and Baroque (들뢰즈의 주름 사유와 바로크를 중심으로 본 바로크의 복식미)

  • Sung, Kwang sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.8
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    • pp.64-76
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    • 2015
  • Gilles Deleuze highly evaluated Baroque as the expression body that implements the fold theory, a philosophical thinking about the nature of beings. This can be seen as a meaning that Baroque implements the essence of the world, or the power constituting that essence. In addition, the beauty of Baroque focuses on 'New Harmony' the sum of partial forms caused by each element, and not Platonic harmony. he evaluated the aesthetic of Baroque costume as 'acquisition of liberation and autonomy', 'derived force from infinite spiritual forces'. This study analyzed the contents of the Aesthetic of Baroque costume based on the reviewed Deleuze's folding theory, Baroque aesthetics, and views of Baroque costume. As a result, it inferred the aesthetic of Baroque costume into four types, which are as follows: open structural openness, overlapping structural dynamics, integrated structural diversity, and relationship structural integrity. This study analyzed the aesthetic of Baroque costume based on Deleuze's philosophical thinking. The analysis showed that its aesthetics, which focused on "New Harmony", created energy of life and a venue for expression of power, as the aesthetics eliminated the prejudice of complexity and excessive decoration. In addition, Baroque costume is not the simple historical costume of the past. Instead, it is one of power and spirit, still existing in modern fashion. Baroque costume's formativeness and Paradigm can be said to provide the creative principle important for modern fashion because the aesthetics implemented in Baroque costume accepts free spirit, new challenge, difference and diversity, and is similar to the spirit pursued by modern art and fashion.

A Study on the Floral Pattern in Baroque Textile (Baroque직물에 나타난 Floral 패턴의 텍스타일 디자인 연구)

  • Lee, Sun-Hwa;Kwon, Young-Suk
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.117-127
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    • 2002
  • Patterns presented at baroque were mostly floral pattern. Abstract anonymous flower, tulip, Acandus leaf, pomegranate were blended with one another and had a distinct leaning toward continuation and repetition. Components of design could be classified into flower and leaf, flower and fruit, flower and circumferential ornament, bunch of flowers, flower and pot, flower and geometry, and flower and animal. Floral patterns in this era were mostly fullness type being large, simple, and having more formalized motive and were fronted with unit type and vine shape. Unit type shows reflection of baroque style which aims to present absolute unification rather than freedom, which was inherent property of baroque style, by using symmetric pattern. Vine type were unfolded with C type curved line which was main characteristics of that time and showed flowage as a whole and pliable beauty. Floral pattern was filled the whole surface of fabric, thus background of fabric can not be discerned. So, it showed extreme decorative tendency and lavishness.

The Study For Comparing Makeup and Ideal Beauty on the Renaissance and the Baroque Portraits (르네상스시대(時代)와 바로크시대(時代)의 인물화(人物畵)에 나타난 메이크업의 형태(形態)와 미인상(美人像)의 비교 연구(比較 硏究))

  • Kwon, Ku-Jung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.10 no.4
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    • pp.78-94
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze and to compare the makeup style and the ideal beauty of the Renaissance and the Baroque by examining the portraits. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, as for the Renaissance makeup, they preferred a broad forehead and thin eyebrows. The color for lips and cheeks makeup was orange and light orange in fashion. Secondly, as for the Baroque makeup, they preferred a broad face with double chin, dark and thick eyebrows and small lips. The color for lips and cheeks was reddish and clear. Finally, as for comparison the these ages, the Renaissance ideal beauty was a little plentiful women with a broad forehead, thin eyebrow. But the Baroque ideal beauty was totally plentiful women with thick eyebrows, clear reddish lips and cheeks. The color of lips and cheeks was more reddish and clear in Baroque. The Baroque women had the smaller lips than the Renaissance women and they are more plentiful and modern with a flourish than the others.

Wig usage investigation which symbolizes the socio-economic status (Egypt$\sim$17C)

  • Jung, Hyun-Jin;Kim, Sung-Nam
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.9 no.6
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    • pp.56-70
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    • 2005
  • This study investigates historically difference by age of wig banishments that symbolize social-economic status from West Egypt era baroque age as qualitative study that use secondary bibliographic data, there is purpose. Conclusion of this study is as following. Because wig putting on that symbolize among several usages of wig putting on, socio-economic status until 17th century baroque age from ancient Egypt is been in fashion through privilege class lower classes as well as upper class wig putting on attain. Ancient wig putting on became measure that divide class because differ material of wig or one dimension, shape (style) and length became linear measure that it can aim wealth's emblem that putting on of long wave wig and whole wig that differ lust has many wig though was in fashion though whole wig and were in fashion arriving to Renaissance. That it becomes France clean fingernails' necessaries as Louis the 14th that ready crux of absolute authority establishment of France Court put wig from depilation to count 17 was clear socio-economic status etc. symbol measure inclination. Go without question status or position, wealth and churchman puts wig so that can know special sex of weapon of where the soldiers are belonged as well as put wig and wig putting on was parted according to job and lower classes participated in fashion of wig putting on. Wig putting on that become measure that symbolize job or status in this baroque age, position, wealth etc. gave absolute influence in wig fashion in 18th century.

Retro Expressed in Culture and Dress of the 19th Century - Focused on Woman's Dress to Neoclassicism and Romanticism - (19세기(世紀) 문화(文化)와 복식(服飾)에 표현(表現)된 복고(復古) - 신고전주의(新古典主義)와 낭만주의(浪漫主義) 여성복(女性服)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • An, Kwang-Sook;Park, Myoung-Hee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.7 no.4
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    • pp.105-120
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    • 2003
  • Culture and society exist in the present, but they came from the past. So did clothing. As dressing is deeply based on culture pattern of the times, it is affected by various culture patterns and still keeps developing in modern times. This study is intended to examine the features of retro fashion on culture and dressing of the 19th century. The features of retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing are objection to the existing pattern, recursion to the past, and creativity characteristic of pattern of those days. Neoclassicism arose as it rejected Baroque and Rococo style, and imitated culture and artistic pattern of Greece and Rome. Romanticism objected to formal and universal pattern of Neoclassicism, and imitated Gothic style while recognizing historical facts and studying medieval times. Dressing in Neoclassicism did not accept exaggerated and luxurious Rococo pattern, and imitated simple, soft and straight silhouette of Greece and Rome and created its unique Empire Style. Romanticism imitated luxurious style of Renaissance, the Middle Ages, Baroque, and Rococo, different from simple and straight neoclassical style during the Bourbon restoration, and created its unique style. Thus, it is shown that retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing reflect the style of those days.

A Study on the Stage Costume Design of the Opera

  • Lyu, Chun-Wha;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.6 no.6
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    • pp.68-77
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    • 2002
  • In this study, based on Choi, Jong Rim's script (2000), the main characters' stage costume designs were presented with 15 illustrated pieces in terms of compounding the images of Korea and West. I considerered the main characters' social status and personality by each act and scene, as well as the correlation of the stage costume's minor theme, color and material. In expressing the stage costume, this study has chosen the formational method of the comparative design dimensions between costumes in 1650s Joseon and baroque period and used the joinder of flat pattern and draping in various parts of the costumes.

A Study on the Clothing Styles of Renaissance and Baroque Focused on H. $W\"{o}lfflin's$ Methodology (뵐플린의 양식사적 관점에서 르네상스와 바로크 복식의 양식비교)

  • Jang, Sung-Eun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.7
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    • pp.15-29
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    • 2007
  • H. $W\"{o}lfflin's$ methodology created viewpoint of art history which is an essential factor of art, and proposed formal analysis as an academic methodology specific to art history. H. $W\"{o}lfflin's$ expressed the see-form a as the five pair concepts which are summarized by 'linear-painterly' 'the plane-the deep'. 'closed form-open form', 'multiplicity-unity', 'absolute clarity-relative clarity'. His methodology is not only in the field of art and architecture but also clothing because during the same period have a relative tendency of thought, culture, politics and economics each other. As the result of this study were as follows. Renaissance of 16 century, the style of dress was enormous and dignified by body support outfit, hard puffs, slashes, padding and expansive jewels. It make appearance of man and woman absolute clarity because Classicism styles of aesthetic consciousness is geometrically perfect form and symmetry and restrained harmony, magnificent. Baroque of 17 century, the style of dress was vigorous mobility and subtle balance by abundant and free silhouette, soft collar, magnificent ribbon loop and tassel without body support outfit. It make appearance of man and woman comfortable and natural because Baroque styles of aesthetic consciousness is extraordinary degree of originality and creativity that was evident in the devising of new styled.

A Study on Gianni Versace's Idea Source for Fashion Design (지아니 베르사체의 패션디자인 발상 연구)

  • Oh, Yun-Jeong;Kim, Ji-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.8
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    • pp.18-31
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    • 2011
  • Gianni Versace was a designer who established his unique fashion world by thinking creatively and using rich design sources. The purpose of this study is to present designers a methodology for creative and characteristic design development by searching Gianni Versace's idea source for fashion design. As a method of the study, visual and textual data were investigated for Versace's fashion and design source especially focusing on those elements that inspired him. Versace was born in the southern area of Italy in 1946. Ever since his childhood, he had a lot of experience with clothes because his mother was a dressmaker. His first collection was made in 1978, and Versace became one of the most famous fashion designers in the world within 20 years. He used a wide range of design sources such as history, culture, and art and created his design world with it. He focused on four important epochs. They were classicism, Byzantium, the eighteenth century centering on Baroque, and the 1920s and 1930s centering on Madeleine Vionnet and Madame Gres. Among cultural elements, costume design for ballet and opera and rock 'n' roll music inspired him greatly. Also, Pop art and various paintings such as Chagall's and Delaunay's had a huge effect on Versace. With these elements, he created a bold and unique coordination of style by mixing & matching history, genre, material, and style into his design. Thus he completed an extraordinary and original fashion style by emphasizing on decorative and glamorous points and changing a way of thinking.