• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.222-239
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• 2021

In this study, six mainland Chinese designer brands-Xander Zhou, Sankuanz, Sean Suen, Feng Chen Wang, Pronounce, and Angel Chen-were selected that had their works presented at both Chinese and global fashion shows between 2016 and 2021. By analyzing the design characteristics of each brand, it is possible to understand the style characteristics and trends of Chinese menswear designs. A case study approach was adopted utilizing literature data, whereby 1663 photos were collected from the fashion information website POP (www.pop-fashion.com). Changes in Chinese men's image and the menswear market were identified. The design characteristics of modern Chinese menswear are as follows. First, the results from analyzing the target brands show that each brand has a distinct personality. Compared with the traditional or formal style, urban casual and sports styles (based on street style) account for a larger proportion. Second, the boundaries between different styles are becoming ambiguous, and contrasting styles are harmoniously expressed by breaking down boundaries through changes and combinations of colors, materials, and details. Third, after examining the overall trend, 2018 was a watershed point, after which the design trend has changed from either conservative or exaggerated to a practical and everyday style, demonstrating a genderless trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.82-96
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the basic approach of producing the luxury fashion brands containing of the Korean traditional traits on the basis of traditional transformation with the modern concept, taking the 'Vivienne Tam' 2000's collections. This study has focused on its transformation of the traditional one of China, and made this as the subject of investigation. It's design characteristic could be defined as "modern interpretations of China chic", and it would be divided into two groups. The ingenious mixture of Chinese tradition into the modern chic could be concluded like these. The external characteristics is categorized in the three ways (1) the aesthetic application of the Chinese traditional patterns(dragon, water waves, peony, Japanese apricot flower, bamboo, bats, Chinese characters etc.), (2)the modern application of Chinese traditional costume details(front opening of Chipao, mandarin collar and knot buttons) and (3)the modernization of Chinese traditional technique(knotting, embroidery, beading and paper cutting). To deal with the internal characteristics, (1)the aesthetic mixture of East and West, (2)the formative expressions of the traditional view on the universe and religion are remarkable. The Chinese embodiment and the view of the universe and religion was integrated into the patterns of dragon, water waves, clouds, fire, woods, and metals. In order to afford the creative designer capable of encompassing the East and West, the teaching about the Korean tradition along with the technical and practical aspect of fashion is most important, while encouraging the professional designer to make a sophisticated ones which are attributed to the Korean tradition, and thereby come to be attractive to the world customer. The study about the Korean costumes, traditional colors, the symbolic meaning of the traditional patterns, cuttings, compositions, extending to the various kinds of myths, songs, paintings and crafts are essential for the Korean designer brand to be the global luxury brands.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.41-52
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• 2012

The purpose of study is to understand of china clothing brand to have them to be competitive position in global market. Also through this study people who are in a clothing industry market from China and overseas will be able to utilize it to have competitive brand power. Analyzing of the China clothing brand with a history and process of development is done to help understand of changes through years. With the rapid development of economy in China, the textiles & clothing industry, as one of the key industries, is showing a strong growing tendency, and brand in china have been expanding oversea market. Till 2002, China has already been the world's largest supplier of textile & clothing. Nowadays, "Made in China" is going to be "Created in China", lots of Chinese clothing brands appear, and many Chinese fashion designers step onto world stage. Chinese women's clothing, men's clothing, casual clothing, sports clothing and designer's brand are developing, popular brands are also promoted through convenient e-commerce. Clothing companies are going public, acquiring overseas brands, implementing internal mergers and integration, expanding overseas market. In such a diversity era, Chinese brands not only need to be localization, but also need to confirm with the trend of international management and globalized economy.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.806-823
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• 2023

The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the develop- ment of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction's aesthetic features termed 'traditional fusion', 'positive playfulness', 'open communication', and 'multiple inclusiveness'. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang's fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, 'traditional fusion' combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, 'positive playfulness' promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, 'open communication' emphasizes design that combines practicality and creati- vity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, 'multiple inclusiveness' breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.55-61
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• 2006

China became the largest costume industry and export country since 1994. The fashion market in China has been changed from seller's market to buyer's market. During this period, brand has taken an important part. The fashion industry in China is developing on outlook, function, materials and categories. I want to do this brief research on the ten years of China Fashion Week to review the development of China Fashion Week, which is the symbol of China fashion industry. I hope it can be reference for being comprehended by Chinese and other foreign countries. In 1997, China Fashion Week was called Fashion Design exhibition. The title was modified to be China Fashion Week in 2000. In 2003. the title was developed to China Fashion Week (Spring/Summer Collection) and China Fashion Week (Autumn/Winter Collection). In the past ten years, there have been 300 fashion collections, with 600 fashion designers who joined in the competitions, and thousands of models, reporters and photographers, who took part in China Fashion Week. Recently 200 login fashion brands, 300 fashion designers, more than 500 reporters and 50 model management companies have made a relationship with China Fashion Week. The first moment of China Fashion Week- "famous designer project": paying attention to the relationship between the level of fashion designers and the style of brands. Quite a good deal of fashion design became more practical. The second moment of China Fashion Week- "improving Chinese fashion brands ": fashion show was not a kind of stage art but the business dealing for brand during that period. The situation of China Fashion Week now: Chinese Haute Couture is showed wonderfully during China Fashion Week. Fashion contest became the character of China Fashion Week. The contests were for adult fashion designers, new designers, models, and photographers. According to the development between different countries on fashion, the international communication of China Fashion Week became more and more popular and wide. Fashion designers from France, Italy, New York, Korea and Japan had fashion shows in China Fashion Week. The Chinese top fashion designers were showing their work during Paris, Milan and New York fashion shows.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

Based on the trend of pluralization and globalization the collapse of national borders now is a manifestation of mixed and compromised cultures and societies. It is also emerging as a hybrid fashion in fashion. Hybrid fashion means creating a new image by mixing various cultures beyond the time and space. This study aims to analyze the current state of Chinese fashion design and present its direction by grasping the characteristics of hybrids in the works of rising Chinese fashion designers in the era of pluralization. The research method was literature review and empirical research. According to the selection criteria of new fashion designers, 6 new fashion designers of 5 fashion brands were selected and their total 458 points works were analyzed. The analysis results are as follows. First, most of the time trade-offs were 'past and present' trade-offs that express Chinese traditional culture and the image of the past with modern design. The trade-offs between 'present and future' is expressed by mixing print patterns, colors and light with fractal art. Second, spatial trade-offs was expressed in the way of expressing Chinese themes in the composition of western clothing, expressing the Western themes in oriental colors, and inspired by Japanese culture expressed by deconstructionism, Third, the gender mix mainly used dark embroidery on women's clothing, while the men's wear showed a delicate feminine charm with a surreal pattern on thin and transparent gauze fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.21-36
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• 2016

The purposes of this study were to find out how the characteristics of Chinoiserie in the perspective of the West have influenced on the contemporary womens' fashion. 440 pieces of photo data for this study were collected, focusing on Paris collections as a fashion capital of Europe, for the period of 10 years from 2005 through 2014. The results of this study are as follows. The impacts of Chinoiserie have increased consistently since 2009. The reasons for the increased impacts are assumed that the influence of Chinoiserie on the contemporary fashion rekindled it, as the worldwide attentions to China have been growing since Beijing Olimpic, Aug. 2008. Reviewing by seasons, the trend of Chinoiserie has been more distinct in F/W season comparing with S/S season except year 2007 and 2011. Considering the results of analysis for each designer, Leonard and Shiatzy Chen, the designers of Chinese-origin, appeared to apply the characteristics of Chinoiserie on the contemporary fashion most successfully, while European designers, such as Dries Van Noten, Valentino, and Jean Paul Gaultier, also appeared to accommodate actively the design styles of Chinoiserie in their fashions. Moreover the Asian designers, such as Aesuro Tayama, Andrew GN, and Kenzo, had been using Chinoiserie as a means of providing oriental ambience. The results of this study would be helpful to design and plan the fashion items which are scheduled to enter Chinese markets by Korean designer brands and fashion enterprises. In addition, it is considered that these results would help Chinese designers understand the design characteristics of Chinoiserie which have evoked empathy of people all around the world, when they make Western stage debut in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.27-35
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• 2012

This study locates typical Korean fashion images in domestic and foreign fashion journals to advance Korea's international image in contemporary global fashion markets. The investigation of the frequency of articles and their types (so as to inquire into interest in Korean fashion in the global fashion markets) showed that for the appearance frequency of domestic articles studied, a good number of articles were published in the first half of 2008 and in 2009. In the case of foreign articles, the number of them increased from the second half of 2008 and the majority of articles were shown in the first half of 2010. Second, the investigation of the appearance features by article type studied in order to understand how Korean fashion played a role in the world's markets. The majority of articles were related to fashion brands that entered Chinese market in fashion brand articles in the case of domestic articles; however, many foreign articles introduced designers that participated in global fashion collections in Paris and New York. Third, as a result of analyzing typical key words by article type in order to find key words which could enhance Korea's fashion national image representing, we could confirm that 'Korean designers' can be a typical key words to represent Korean fashion. The key word most exposed in both domestic and foreign articles was 'designer Lie Sang Bong' and only his articles contained the content about influential Korean design materials.