• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 1999.10a
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• pp.145-154
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• 1999

A novel retinol derivative, polyethoxylated retinamide (Medimin A) was synthesized, as an anti-aging agent. Collagen synthesis, skin permeation, stability, and toxicity of Medimin A were evaluated and compared with those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. In vitro collagen synthesis was evaluated by quantitative assay of [$^3H$]-proline incorporation into collagenase sensitive protein in fibroblast cultures. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells (effective diffusion area: $1, 766{\;}\textrm{cm}^2$) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used The stabilities of retlnoids were evaluated at two different temperature ($25{\;}^{\circ}C$ and $40{\;}^{\circ}C$) and under UV in solubilized state and in OW emulsion. To estimate the safety, acute oral toxicity, acute dermal toxicity, primary skin irritation, acute eye irritation and human patch test were performed The effect of Medimin A on collagen synthesis was similar to that of retinol. The skin permeability of Medimin A was higher than those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. The Medimin A was more stable than retinol and retinyl palmitate. Medimin A was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that Medimin A would be a good anti-aging agent for enhancing bioavailability and stability.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.132-149
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• 1992

This study relates to a microemulsion gel which is applied in various cosmetic preparations because of good appearance, superior stability and a thin, uniform, non-greasy fi Am on the skin. Main object of this study is to elucidate the influence of polyol(clarifying agent and/or coupling agent in microemulsion) on microemulsion and to establish the optimum conditions for microemulsion gel formation in the view of superior consistency, stability, clarity and pick-up from a container. The constituents of the system are composed of water, polar ester oi1, nonionic surfactant and polyol. Using the three-component phase diagram and the tetrahedral-phase diagram, we have investigated the changes of transparence regions, consistency and resonance effect by an impact in microemulsion gel varying in polyol ratio. The results of this study showed that the variation in the content of water and couple ins agent has major influence on the microemulsion gel and the optimum formation region of microemulsion gel is the widest when the ratio of glycerine(coupling agent) to water is 63-75% It is believed that optimum use of polyol seems to be helpful to obtain the microemulsion gel containing maximum amount of oil phase with minimum amount of surfactant which is recently one of the major problems of cosmetic chemists.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.4 s.34
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• pp.145-154
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• 1999

A novel retinol derivative, polyethoxylated retinamide(Medimin A) was synthesized, as an anti-aging agent. Collagen synthesis, skin permeation, stability, and toxicity of Medimin A were evaluated and compared with those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. In vitro collagen synthesis was evaluated by quantitative assay of $[^3H]-proline$ incorporation into collagenase sensitive protein in fibroblast cultures. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells(effective diffusion area: 1,766 $cm^2$) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used, The stabilities of retinoids were evaluated at two different temperature($25^{\circ}C\;and\;40^{\circ}C$) and under UV in solubilized state and in O/W emulsion. To estimate the safety, acute oral toxicity, acute dermal toxicity, primary skin irritation, acute eye irritation and human patch test were performed. The effect of Medimin A on collagen synthesis was similar to that of retinol. The skin permeability of Medimin A was higher than those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. The Medimin A was more stable than retinol and retinyl palmitate. Medimin A was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that Medimin A would be a good anti-aging agent for enhancing bioavailability and stability.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.111-118
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• 2001

A novel melanogenic inhibitory compound, Phytoclear-EL1 (5,10-diacetyl-3-benzoyllathyrol) was isolated from Euphorbiae lathyridis. The effects of EL1 on culture normal human melanocytes (NHM) were assessed. EL1 reduced the melanin synthesis of NHM by 40% at a concentration of 2 $\square$g/ml without any apparent cytotoxicity. We also have found that the treatment of the cells with EL1 decreased the tyrosinase activity by 29% in situ. To elucidate the action mechanism of EL1, we investigated the changes in mRNA levels of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 using RT-PCR technique. AS a result, the mRNA levels of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 were markedly reduced by EL1 treatment. These results suggest that Phytoclear-EL1 is a novel whitening agent that is effective in human melanocytes.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.82-85
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• 1997

To develop an active material for skin darkening, we examined the effect of 300 plants on tyrosinase activity and found only Caesalpinia sappan has an ability to increase tyrosinase activity highly and melanin contents in B-16 melanoma cells. A compound increasing tyrosinase activity and melanin production was isolated from Caesalpinia sappan Lignum. Brazilin was identified as a new active agent. Brazilin increases the tyrosinase activity and malanin production of B-16 melanoma cells. In conclusion, it seems that brazilin cal be used as a new sunless tanning agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.38-44
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• 1998

The skin permeation and the skin primary irritation of two UV filters from caprylic capryl triglyceride (oil), oil in water (O/W) and water in oil (W/O) emulsions, were evaluated. We selected octyl moth-oxycinnamate (OMC) broadly used in cosmetics and polymeric sunscreen agent (PSA, average MW: 2,000) synthesized by the coupling reaction of 2-ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate with poly vinylbenzyl chloride, as model UV filters. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells (effective diffusion area:1.766cm) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used. Oil or emulsion containing UV filters was applied in the donor compartment. The skin primary irritation was evaluated with fe-male guinea pigs (8-10 weeks,350-400 g). In oil and emulsions, the skin permeability and the skin primary irritation of PSA were lower than those of OMC. The skin permeability of UV filters was lower when they were in oil-in-water emulsion (OIW) than water-in-oil emulsion (W/O). We suggest that O/W system would be more useful when compared with W/O system, and PSA could be a good candidate for a future sunscreen agent for reducing the skin irritation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.135-150
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• 2003

This study is described the stabilizing technology of water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion and the mechanism of emulsification with quaternium-18 hectorite (Q-18 HTRT) by swelling action. When Q-18 HTRT is dispersed in oil, it swells and constructs card-house structure adding ethanol, and formation of water phase is caused by hydrogen bonding. The gelling activities of Q-18 HTRT were excellent such as mineral oil, squalane, cetostearyl isononanoate, isostearic acid, cetyl octanoate, octyl dodecanol and so on. Especially, when oil gel containing Q-18 HTRT passed one to three times by Roll mill. It made the W/O emulsion cream (W/O-ECRM) having 2.0 w/w% of Q-18 HTRT and also produced the control sample (control) including 3.0 w/w% of cetyl PEG/PPG- l0/l dimethicone. The stability of after 24 weeks, Hardness of W/O-ECRM dropped 7.48%, whereas hardness of control went down 57 71%. As a result of these test emulsification of W/O-ECRM is superior compared with control. In cosmetic, 0-18 HTRT can use as suspending agent, oil adsorbent, emulsifying agent, dispersing agent, viscosifier and pigment.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.413-416
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• 2010

In this research, root extracts of Nelumbo nucifera was tested to see the possibility for functional cosmetic agent. 70-100% ethanol was used as solvent and nuciferin was confirmed as active component. To test cosmetic effect of root extracts of Nelumbo nucifera, safety effect(MTT assay), anti-wrinkle effect(elastase inhibition assay) and antioxidation effect(DPPH free radical scavenging assay) were measured. When 100% ethanol was used as extracting solvent, cell viability was over 80% at $100{\mu}g/ml$, which indicated that root extract of Nelumbo nucifera was suitable for cosmetic agent. Root extract of Nelumbo nucifera showed 40~50% elastase inhibition at $100{\mu}g/ml$ so that it had good anti-wrinkle characteristics. 50% antioxidation capacity($FSC_{50}$) was $5.0{\sim}38{\mu}g/ml$ and root extract of Nelumbo nucifera showed excellent antioxidation effect. From the research, root extracts of Nelumbo nucifera showed strong possibility for anti-wrinkle functional cosmetic agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.193-204
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• 2003

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.174-181
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• 1996

The novel synthesis of 3-aminopropyl dihydrogen phosphate(3-APPA; 3-Aminopropane phosphoric acid), and its applicability to the skin as a cosmetic raw material in terms of its efficacy and toxicology were presented. The phosphorylation of 3-amino-1-propanol was carried out via cyclization into 6-membered 2, 6-oxaza-phosphoryl ring in the presence of phosphorous oxychloried and an organic base. The subsequent ring-opening hydrolysis and crystallization afforded the highly purified product in 90% isoloated yield. The method is much superior to the previous literature phosphorylation methodsm, as the procedure is simple and high-yielding. To confirm the efficacy of 3-APPA, several activities related to anti-aging capacity were measured. In-vitro human fibroblast, linear and 3-dimensional collagen matrix culture revealed that 3-APPA stimulated the proliferation of fibroblasts, and enhanced the synthesis of collagen, which showed 3-APPA's potency for skin wrinkle reduction. The toxicolgical aspect of 3-APPA was also extensively examined. In vivo toxicity tests such as acute oral toxicity, eye irritation, human patch, and the repeat insult human patch test proved 3-APPA to be a safe material. Thus 3-APPA can be used as an effective anti-aging agent for various cosmetic formulations.