• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.457-468
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• 2003

Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products\ulcorner In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.30-38
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• 2018

Glycolic acid(GA) is well known the most effective cosmetic ingredient on the epidermal remodeling, accelerated desquamation and inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis. The various cosmetic formulations containing GA have not been reported in terms of stability. This study was to investigate the stability of three formulations(gel, cream, and ointment). The stability of obtained formulations was tested chemical and physical characteristics including the composition stability, hot-cool cycling, the variation of pH and viscosity, and the observation of color and odor. The experimental results showed that the gel and cream containing 5% GA, both formulations have proper stability in the centrifugal test, hot-cool cycling test, viscosity, pH stability and the observation of color and odor. On the other hand, the 5% GA ointment did not have stability. We concluded that the formulations of gel and cream are more suitable than ointment to use GA ingredient for developing cosmetic in terms of stability.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.115-120
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• 2010

The formidable barrier property of the stratum cornemum and the high hydrophilicity of active ingredient make it difficult to permeate through the skin and reach to its site of action. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of chemical penetration enhancers on the skin permeation of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient, such as arbutin. The enhancing effects of N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP) on the permeation of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient were evaluated by using Franz diffusion cell. The study indicated that NMP has considerable influence on the skin permeability. NMP was not only the most effective enhancer but also increased the skin permeability of arbutin approximately 1.3~1.5 fold compared with control without penetration enhancer. The lag time did not change with NMP, which suggested no effect of NMP on skin lipid fluidity. This suggest that arbutin co-permeated with NMP. The results indicate NMP is effective enhancer of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient in penetration, with potential applications for drug delivery system.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.295-301
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• 2010

To develop wrinkle care cosmetic ingredients, various species of plant extracts were investigated. Accordingly, Ligustrum japonicum was selected as a candidate for developing cosmetic ingredient. By high performance liquid chromatography, 31.06 % of oleanolic acid and 8.92 % of ursolic acid which are well-known for anti-wrinkle effect were analyzed. The possibility of Ligustrum japonicum fruits extract (LJE) as a cosmetic ingredient was investigated using several biomarkers related to anti-aging, including anti-wrinkle, moisturizing and anti-inflammation. Procollagen type I and hyaluronan synthase-3 gene expression were increased by LJE in a concentration-dependent manner, whereas elastase activity and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, MMP-2 and cyclooxygenase-2 gene expression were inhibited. As the results LJE is applicable for a potential cosmetic ingredient focused on anti-aging effect.

• Journal of Korean Society of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.406-415
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• 2018

Objective: The purpose of this study was to investigate the hazards of cosmetic ingredients in Korea. Methods: An Excel database of cosmetic ingredients was developed on a website(Korea Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) and used for a hazard assessment based on Tox-free, a database containing toxic information such as on carcinogens, mutagens or reproductive toxicants(CMRs) and endocrine disrupting chemicals(EDCs), as well as other regulated chemicals in Korea. Results: A total of 16,605 chemicals were registered with the cosmetic ingredient dictionary and 308 of them were identified as either CMRs or EDCs. CMRs included formaldehyde and nickel gluconate, and EDCs included parabens, benzophenon, styrene, and toluene. Reproductive toxicants such as xylene, zinc chloride, toluene, and formaldehyde were regulated by the Occupational Safety and Health Act and the Act on the Registration and Evaluation, etc. of Chemical Substances(the Chemical Control Act). Conclusions: Regulations on cosmetics components should be strengthened, and the right to know about cosmetics containing hazardous chemicals should be guaranteed.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.145-148
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• 2014

To determine whether S-(-)-10,11-dihydroxyfarnesic acid methyl ester (DHFAME) produced by Beauveria bassiana CS1029 potentially causes acute skin irritation as a cosmetic ingredient, a skin toxicity test was conducted as recommended for compliance with Korea Food and Drug Administration regulations. New Zealand White rabbits were treated with 100 mg/dose of DHFAME according to standard guidelines. No significant skin lesions or inflammation was observed in the DHFAME-treated group. Furthermore, DHFAME did not appear to cause skin irritation, as assessed by clinical observation of the rabbits. Thus, when taken together, the present results suggest that DHFAME is a promising potential cosmetic ingredient that does not irritate the skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.137-142
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• 2008

Echinacea purpurea, an indian traditional plant medicine has been widely used as herbal remedy for the treatment of disease such as colds or other infections. However, Echinacea purpurea extracts recently have been applied as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care. We artificially cultured Echinacea purpurea by using the bioreactor culture system for this study. We induced callus from Echinacea purpurea and separated adventitious roots, harvested and extracted after cultured in bioreactors. Previously, several studies have been reported on anti-oxidant and immuno-enhancing effects of Echinacea purpurea extract but other efficacies were not well known. In this study, we investigated the whitening, anti-wrinkle and anti-oxidant effects to know applicable value of tissue-cultured Echinacea purpurea adventitious roots extract(TCEPARE) as a cosmetic ingredient. TCEPARE did not show cytotoxicity until a concentration of 2% and showed the anti-oxidative effect in DPPH and NBT tests. Also, the extract decreased tyrosinase expression in a dose-dependent manner and inhibited melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells. TCEPARE reduced protein levels of MMP-1, 2 secreted in culture medium or in cell lysates. From these results we suggest that TCEPARE has potential benefits applicable as to cosmetic ingredient for skin care products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.155-162
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• 2014

In this study, in order to know the application for cosmetic ingredient, the liposome contained camel milk was prepared and tested in human skin fibroblast. Collagen and hyaluronan synthase-3 (HAS-3) gene expression were increased by camel milk liposome in a concentration-dependent manner, whereas elastase activity and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 gene expression were inhibited. We also found that camel milk liposome regenerated UVB-damaged fibroblast. As the results, we suggest that the liposome contained camel milk is applicable for a potential cosmetic ingredient to improve anti-aging effect.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.121-129
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• 2015

Aloe is a popular and effective agent used to cosmetic ingredient. It could replace artificial pigment on make-up base product and it is highly probable that might be useful as ingredients of multi-functional color cosmetic. In this study, we made a makeup base containing aloe extract and tested the effectiveness, safety and stability. Contents of polyphenol and flavonoid from the aloe extract were measured. To determine the antimicrobial effect from the aloe we used the paper disc diffusion method. We assessed the safety of make-up base containing aloe to cultured macrophage RAW 264.7 cells by MTT assay. Polyphenol contents of aloe extract and flavonoid respectively were 48 mg/g and 10 mg/g, in the 10 % concentration aloe extract. In case of aloe make-up base, the clear zone against Stapylococcus epidermidis was 9~11 mm and Stapylococcus aureus was also 9~11 mm. Growth activity of macrophage RAW 264.7 cells was over 80% in all concentration of make-up base containing aloe and general make base product. In conclusion aloe extract may be able to substitute the synthetic pigments and considered to be uses for ingredients multi-functional color cosmetic's ingredient.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.35-49
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• 2003

In this study, in an attempt to search for functional cosmetic ingredients from higher fungal, we have produced exopolysaccharides (GF-l, approximately carbohydrate 75％, protein 25％) and polysaccharide (GF-2) of mycelium extract, by submerged culture of Grifolafrondosa. For applications in anti-aging cosmetic field, we investigated the diverse biological activities. Antioxidant activity and inhibition of Matrixmetalloproteinases (MMPs) were investigated enzymatic assays by measuring the superoxide scavenging activity using xanthine-xanthine oxidase system and the proteolytic activity of MMPs using EnzChek Collagenase/Gelatinase kits, respectively. GF-l polysacchairde showed inhibition of superoxide radical by 90％ at a concentration of 0.2％ (w/v) and inhibition of collagenase by 45％ at 0.2％ (w/v). GF-2 polysaccharide of mycelium extract also exhibited good antioxidant activity. However, MMPs inhibition activity was relatively lower level compared to GF-l polysaccharides. The treatment of human dermal fibroblast (HDF) with GF-l and GF-2 polysaccharides increased the proliferation of fibroblast by approximately 23-25％ at a concentration of 0.5％ (w/v), also showed collagen synthesis increase in HDF by about 50％ at 0.5％ (w/v) compared to that of untreated control. We also report the moisturizing effects of polysaccharides in cosmetic products (O/W emulation) and its own ingredient, in vitro and in vivo. The GF-1 polysaccharide showed higher moisturizing ability than sodium hyaluronate, which is the most commonly used moisturizers ingredient. These results suggest the GF-l polysaccharide, protein-bound polysaccharide, may be used as an ingredient for new moisturizing and anti-aging cosmeceuticals.