• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
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• pp.457-468
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• 2003

Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products\ulcorner In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.30-38
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• 2018

Glycolic acid(GA) is well known the most effective cosmetic ingredient on the epidermal remodeling, accelerated desquamation and inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis. The various cosmetic formulations containing GA have not been reported in terms of stability. This study was to investigate the stability of three formulations(gel, cream, and ointment). The stability of obtained formulations was tested chemical and physical characteristics including the composition stability, hot-cool cycling, the variation of pH and viscosity, and the observation of color and odor. The experimental results showed that the gel and cream containing 5% GA, both formulations have proper stability in the centrifugal test, hot-cool cycling test, viscosity, pH stability and the observation of color and odor. On the other hand, the 5% GA ointment did not have stability. We concluded that the formulations of gel and cream are more suitable than ointment to use GA ingredient for developing cosmetic in terms of stability.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.115-120
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• 2010

피부에서 표피를 통한 물질의 수송은 피부의 여러 가지 보호 작용으로 인해 경피 흡수가 쉽게 이루어지지 않아 결과적으로 생리 활성 성분이 그 효과를 발휘하는 진피층까지 도달하기 어렵다. 본 연구는 피부에서 매우 낮은 농도가 투과되는 친수도가 높은 약물(알부틴)의 경피흡수를 촉진하는 화학적 촉진제의 in vitro 흡수 양상에 대한 연구이다. 화학적 촉진제로 N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP)을, 경피흡수장치는 Franz diffusion cell을 사용하였다. NMP는 약물의 경피흡수에 상당히 영향을 준다는 것을 알 수 있었다. NMP는 피부 지질층의 유동성에 영향을 주지 않고 약물의 보조흡수제로 작용하여 알부틴의 경피흡수촉진비율을 약 1.3~1.5배 증가 시켰지만 지연 시간의 변화는 없었다. 따라서 NMP는 친수성 생리활성 물질의 효과적인 화학적 경피흡수 촉진제로 작용하였으며, 향후 화장품 제형 및 약물전달체계에 응용이 기대된다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제36권4호
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• pp.295-301
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• 2010

본 연구에서는 천연 추출물을 이용하여 화장품 원료를 개발하고자 다양한 천연물을 대상으로 조사하였고 그중 광나무 추출물을 선별하여 주름 개선 원료로 사용하고자 하였다. 고성능액체크로마토그래피를 수행하여 주름 개선 효과로 잘 알려진 oleanolic acid 31.06 %와 ursolic acid 8.92 %를 확인하였다. 제조된 광나무 추출물은 피부 섬유아세포에서 procollagen type I과 hyaluronan synthase-3의 발현을 증가시키고 matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, MMP-2, cyclooxygenase-2의 발현을 감소시킬 뿐 아니라 elastase의 활성을 억제하여 주름 개선 기능을 갖는 것을 확인하였다. 따라서 광나무 추출물은 주름개선 화장품 소재로 개발될 수 있는 잠재력이 있다.

• 한국산업보건학회지
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.406-415
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• 2018

Objective: The purpose of this study was to investigate the hazards of cosmetic ingredients in Korea. Methods: An Excel database of cosmetic ingredients was developed on a website(Korea Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) and used for a hazard assessment based on Tox-free, a database containing toxic information such as on carcinogens, mutagens or reproductive toxicants(CMRs) and endocrine disrupting chemicals(EDCs), as well as other regulated chemicals in Korea. Results: A total of 16,605 chemicals were registered with the cosmetic ingredient dictionary and 308 of them were identified as either CMRs or EDCs. CMRs included formaldehyde and nickel gluconate, and EDCs included parabens, benzophenon, styrene, and toluene. Reproductive toxicants such as xylene, zinc chloride, toluene, and formaldehyde were regulated by the Occupational Safety and Health Act and the Act on the Registration and Evaluation, etc. of Chemical Substances(the Chemical Control Act). Conclusions: Regulations on cosmetics components should be strengthened, and the right to know about cosmetics containing hazardous chemicals should be guaranteed.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.145-148
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• 2014

To determine whether S-(-)-10,11-dihydroxyfarnesic acid methyl ester (DHFAME) produced by Beauveria bassiana CS1029 potentially causes acute skin irritation as a cosmetic ingredient, a skin toxicity test was conducted as recommended for compliance with Korea Food and Drug Administration regulations. New Zealand White rabbits were treated with 100 mg/dose of DHFAME according to standard guidelines. No significant skin lesions or inflammation was observed in the DHFAME-treated group. Furthermore, DHFAME did not appear to cause skin irritation, as assessed by clinical observation of the rabbits. Thus, when taken together, the present results suggest that DHFAME is a promising potential cosmetic ingredient that does not irritate the skin.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.137-142
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• 2008

에키네시아는 미국 북미 대평원에 서식하는 야생 식물로 수세기 동안 감기나 또 다른 바이러스 감염에 의한 질병에 대하여 면역 기능을 증진 시키는 전통 식물 약재로 널리 사용되어 왔다. 최근에 에키네시아 추출물은 피부 보호를 위한 화장품 원료로서 응용되어 오고 있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 에키네시아를 인공적으로 조직배양하여 얻어낸 캘러스로부터 부정근을 유도하여, 대단위 배양을 한 부정근을 추출하여 화장품 성분으로서의 응용 가치를 평가하였다. 이미 몇몇 보고된 논문에서 에키네시아 추출물은 항산화 효과 및 면역증진효과는 보고되었지만 다른 효능에 대한 연구는 충분하지 않다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 피부 보호에 대한 화장품 원료로서의 응용을 위한 항산화, 미백 및 주름과 관련한 효능 효과를 평가하였다. 조직 배양한 에키네시아 추출물의 효능 효과 평가 결과, 추출물 농도 2%까지 세포독성이 나타나지 않았으며, 외부환경에 의한 피부노화 및 피부색, 기미, 주근깨 등과 같은 피부현상에 중요한 영향을 미치는 인자인 활성산소종의 소거 효과가 우수함을 확인하였으며, 또한 B16 melanoma 세포 내에서 tyrosinase의 발현을 농도 의존적으로 감소시키고 멜라닌 합성을 억제하였다. 피부 주름과 관련하여 진피층의 extracellular matrix(ECM) degradation에 관여하는 콜라겐 분해효소인 MMP-1, MMP-2의 발현을 억제하였다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제40권2호
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• pp.155-162
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• 2014

본 연구에서는 낙타유를 유효성분으로 하여 리포좀을 제조하였고, 이를 이용하여 항노화 효능을 갖는 화장품 원료를 개발하고자 다양한 실험을 실시하였다. 제조된 낙타유 리포좀은 피부 섬유아세포에서 collagen과 hyaluronan synthase-3 (HAS-3)의 발현을 증가시키고 matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1의 발현을 감소시킬 뿐 아니라 elastase의 활성을 억제하여 주름 개선 기능을 갖는 것을 확인하였다. 또한 자외선으로부터 손상된 세포를 재생시키는 효과를 확인하였다. 이에 따라 낙타유를 함유한 리포좀은 항노화 소재로 활용할 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.121-129
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• 2015

Aloe is a popular and effective agent used to cosmetic ingredient. It could replace artificial pigment on make-up base product and it is highly probable that might be useful as ingredients of multi-functional color cosmetic. In this study, we made a makeup base containing aloe extract and tested the effectiveness, safety and stability. Contents of polyphenol and flavonoid from the aloe extract were measured. To determine the antimicrobial effect from the aloe we used the paper disc diffusion method. We assessed the safety of make-up base containing aloe to cultured macrophage RAW 264.7 cells by MTT assay. Polyphenol contents of aloe extract and flavonoid respectively were 48 mg/g and 10 mg/g, in the 10 % concentration aloe extract. In case of aloe make-up base, the clear zone against Stapylococcus epidermidis was 9~11 mm and Stapylococcus aureus was also 9~11 mm. Growth activity of macrophage RAW 264.7 cells was over 80% in all concentration of make-up base containing aloe and general make base product. In conclusion aloe extract may be able to substitute the synthetic pigments and considered to be uses for ingredients multi-functional color cosmetic's ingredient.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
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• pp.35-49
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• 2003

In this study, in an attempt to search for functional cosmetic ingredients from higher fungal, we have produced exopolysaccharides (GF-l, approximately carbohydrate 75％, protein 25％) and polysaccharide (GF-2) of mycelium extract, by submerged culture of Grifolafrondosa. For applications in anti-aging cosmetic field, we investigated the diverse biological activities. Antioxidant activity and inhibition of Matrixmetalloproteinases (MMPs) were investigated enzymatic assays by measuring the superoxide scavenging activity using xanthine-xanthine oxidase system and the proteolytic activity of MMPs using EnzChek Collagenase/Gelatinase kits, respectively. GF-l polysacchairde showed inhibition of superoxide radical by 90％ at a concentration of 0.2％ (w/v) and inhibition of collagenase by 45％ at 0.2％ (w/v). GF-2 polysaccharide of mycelium extract also exhibited good antioxidant activity. However, MMPs inhibition activity was relatively lower level compared to GF-l polysaccharides. The treatment of human dermal fibroblast (HDF) with GF-l and GF-2 polysaccharides increased the proliferation of fibroblast by approximately 23-25％ at a concentration of 0.5％ (w/v), also showed collagen synthesis increase in HDF by about 50％ at 0.5％ (w/v) compared to that of untreated control. We also report the moisturizing effects of polysaccharides in cosmetic products (O/W emulation) and its own ingredient, in vitro and in vivo. The GF-1 polysaccharide showed higher moisturizing ability than sodium hyaluronate, which is the most commonly used moisturizers ingredient. These results suggest the GF-l polysaccharide, protein-bound polysaccharide, may be used as an ingredient for new moisturizing and anti-aging cosmeceuticals.