• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.107-116
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• 2004

In the modern society, magazine is a information communicating media which is an important element in assessing the whole of a nation's cultural standard. More subdivided fields of magazines are expanding according to the diversified concepts. As the variety of Korean edition of foreign magazines are increasing, the type of Women's magazines are also diversifying and expanding. By finding out the problems and analyzing the visual side of domestic women's magazines among the intense competition of the magazines, the design improvement program was requested. The analysis result from the visual side of domestic women's magazines tells us that the problem of current domestic women's magazines is that their identities are not clear. The cause can be divided into three reasons: First, it is the lack of creativity and originality. There is a limitation in arousing the readers' interests by designing the magazines with similar layouts. Second, there are no distinct design concepts in the magazines. It seems as if the uniformity is lacked as the impression the magazine gives is not clear. The diversification of layouts and the use of design elements could actually bring about a counter result. Third, the excessive advertisement pages is another reason. The ads that covers over 35% of the whole of the magazine can act as a factor that drops the readers' trust in the magazine.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.76-88
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• 2002

The aim of this study was to describe how the type of appeal and linguistic expression of men's wear advertisement in magazines by analyzing domestic men's and ladies' magazines published from 1990 to 1999. The periodical change in advertisement trend was also discussed. 1. Type of Linguistic expression The type of linguistic expression used in advertisements far men's wear could be classified into the following five categories : emotional expression, sensual expression, egoistic expression, informative expression, and brand name expression. The periodical trend in the use of each type of linguistic expression was as follows: the occupancy rate for the type of emotional expression was roughly 50 percent in the early 90's (1990-1993) and this percentage gradually decreased during the mid 90's (1994-1196) until the late 90's (1997-1990). Despite the decrease in occupancy rate, this type was the most commonly used. While the occupancy rate fur the type of informative expression gradually increased during the decade, occupancy growth fur the type of brand name expression was slight until its rapid expansion in the late 90's. The occupancy rate for the type of egoistic expression steadily increased during the early and mid 90's but decreased to its original percentage in the late 90's. As for the sensual expression, its occupancy was insignificant up to the mid 90's and then rapidly decreased in the late 90's. 2. Type of appeal The type of appeal used in men's wear advertisements could be classified into the four categories, sensitive appeal, sex appeal, image appeal, and quality appeal. The periodical trend in the use of each type of appeal was as follows: sensitive appeal was most commonly used during the decade ; it had an occupancy rate over 50 percent in the early 90's but the rate gradually decreased during the mid and late 90's. Sexual appeal were the least commonly used; though the occupancy rate increased during the early and mid 90's it dropped dramatically in the late 97's. The occupancy rate for image appeal gradually decreased until its growth in the late 90's. The occupancy rate fur quality appeal was insignificant in the early 90's. This percentage rapidly increased in the mid 90's but relapsed in the late 90's.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.574-591
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• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.