• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.918-932
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• 2004

Fashion is a product of form expressing the socio-cultural mood and aesthetic value of an age. Owing to development of the mass media and diversification of arts under the influence of post-modernism in the 20th century, fashion has been more briskly expressed to be presented to the people. With such basic conceptions in mind, this study was aimed at reviewing the fashion photography as visual medium. To this end, visual narrative techniques were analyzed and thereupon, Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography was examined. This study reviews such visual narrative techniques by dividing into visual and non-visual elements and thereby, examines the three-fold aspects of fashion photography expressions : Representative Level, Ground Level and Context Level. Also this study focuses on Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography in 'W magazine' which features portfolio form. This study analyzed the visual narratives shown in fashion photography and thereby, expand in diverse ways the fixed images of the conventional fashion photography commercials featuring beautiful models and exquisite costumes, and additionally, determined that fashion photography must be a kind of expression tool which could express not only the simple fashion but also the socio-psychological elements inherent in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1061-1073
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• 2009

Present expression methods have close relations with popular culture in the active acceptance of various kinds of genre. Fashion illustration is no longer limited to sketching garments or technically explaining construction, it is accepted as an art that is expressed by the desire and consciousness of the artist. This study examines the expressional characteristics and effects of photo-image appropriation as an expression method in fashion illustration. The word 'appropriation' (to steal something) is used as euphemism and not meant to be derogatory. The methods of appropriation in art indicate that paintings are not inventions but are self-satisfactory creations that show that the idea of originality is false and that paintings should be uninhibited from the greed of the authority of the genius of artists. In postmodern paintings, the photo-image of appropriation are expressed through the methods of re-photography, photo collage, and photo painting. Photo-image appropriation methods in fashion illustration are re-photography, photo collage, image mixing of photography, drawing, and graphic expression of photography. Fashion illustrators are able to develop expression techniques for expanding a field of expression and enhance the ability of communication through the photo-image appropriation methods.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2015

This study, which focuses on a masquerade, starts from the concept that all men exist as visual objects as well as visual subjects before discussing an issue of sexuality to inquire into masquerade characteristics of fashion photography. Masquerade is a concept that can describe various and multidimensional attributes of humans in social norms prescribed separately for men and women till now, and the concept has not yet been introduced in the field of fashion. However, it is considered a measure to analyze contemporary expressions of sexuality, on which a need for this research is raised. This study looks into the basic concept of the object and the ego through a psychoanalysis-related literature review. This study, then inquires into Jacques Lacan's notion of gaze and Roger Caillois's theory of mimicry through related specialty publications. This study reinterprets the concept of masquerade from Lacan's perspective and carries out an empirical analysis of masquerade characteristics in contemporary fashion photography based on the result drawn in parallel. Sexual masquerade shown in fashion photography based on the concept of masquerade is as follows: first, it appears as normative sexual description, divided into male and female by social norms; second, sexual ambiguity, obscuring the distinction between the sexes through playful and bombastic forms; and lastly, sexual subversion, disguising as the opposite sex through putting on clothes of the opposite sex.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.861-879
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• 2022

Simulacre means a copy of the original, an ostensible representation of someone or something. This study closely looks at the 2017 <VOGUE like a painting exhibition> hosted by the fashion magazine Vogue. The purpose of this study is to use both theoretical and empirical analysis to analyze the simulacre developed in fashion photographs inspired by famous paintings in the exhibition booklet. The booklet is divided into four sections: portrait, rococo, landscape painting, from avant-garde to pop art. It also contains 55 pieces comparing the original masterpieces to the works of 26 photographers inspired by them. The fashion photographs were analyzed using Jean Baudrillard's four stages of simulacre transformation: represent, denature, dissimulate, and replace image change theory. The degree of simulacre expression was indicated three times on a four-point Likert scale by five fashion majors, and the results were integrated and analyzed. As a result, in fashion photography, simulacre-due to the development of photography technology and the photographer's artistry-appeared in various ways; image denature was most preferred, followed by dissimulate, represent, and replace. This study shows that image analysis of fashion photo-graphs and applying the perspective of simulacre when creating artworks can be a way to obtain rich qualitative data in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.143-154
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• 2007

This study's purpose is how express gender image according to sex in editorial fashion photography. This study's objectives are the women's magazine Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and man's magazine GQ, Esquire published 2000-2005 within the country. The photography was classified with established a standard based on the precede studies. The photo is classified Gender image according to dress and its ornaments, model character and atmosphere by Sex Expression of femininity woman has exposure of body parts and emphasizing thin eyebrows and red lips, soft and mild image, modest and static pose. Man expressed femininity used ladylike color and pattern, erotic exposure of body and long hair style. Commonly emphasizing red lips, natural background of flower plant, S-line. For expression of masculinity man and woman are used masculinity item, short hair-style and thick eyebrows. And also emphasize square like chin and shoulder. Specially, woman used direct silhouette to conceal soft body curved line. The expressions of androgynous woman and man are colorful dress and make-up. Woman emphasized male face to show and man expressed soft image through hull of abundant material of fur. All two sex selected method that conceal body curved line and face to express sexless. Hiding characteristics of body and face make indistinct of sex. The gender is affected by atmosphere such as model and illumination background as much as clothes because of the editorial fashion photography.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.205-215
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• 2014

This study analyzed 'The representation of death' as expressed in the fashion photography posted on Facebook. Currently, there is a growing interest in 'Well-dying'. Also contemporary art and fashion is a trend that expressed what about death more than life. And today, Facebook is one of the current worldwide as a powerful communication. Death representation in contemporary fashion photography, as expressed in its first characteristic is 'Vanitas', and the main material was a skull. The shape of a skeleton of the symbol of death. Vanitas of inner meaning is vain, a mortal life's futility and death for the paradoxical emotion. The second characteristic is 'Phantom of the ruins'. This is like the darkness of death, and the shape represented in that space. And the death representation is depressed, gloomy atmosphere, dead-man and warm-less. Inner meaning is curiosity about the ghosts and the decadence romantic about the afterlife. The last characteristic is 'Grotesque'. This characteristic is the destruction of the body, fear of sadistic, and inhuman shape. This is parable with death that pain and fear of death, dark fantasy, the appearance of a contradiction modern society and cut off humanity. Inner meaning is the dark fear of death and the anger of wrong of the present society. At present, we have to reproduce the death, and what we want is eventually no one can escape 'Attention to death'. In addition, by expressing the solidarity between death and life is to want to get a consolation for the anxiety and afraid reality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.24-36
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• 2006

The consumption became a virtue of social in 20th century, and this consumption culture created an ideal body image through mass media. Sexual image became a new standard of 'beauty' in a modern fashion, and designs which expressed sexual image appear every season. Individuals were fascinated with some parts of human body. These body parts are different based on the time period and the culture that the individual belonged to. This study focused on the erotic body parts and expression on the editorial fashion photography. Eroticism represented in the editorial fashion photographs can be divided into the expression by clothing design and by creating erotic atmospheres. Erotic expressions by clothing design can be presented by 1)exposing directly 2)exposing indirectly 3)emphasizing the body parts. The most frequently presented erotic body parts in fashion photographs were legs(25%), followed by the bodice with breast (21%), the waist (16%), the hip (12%), neck & shoulder (10%), arms (9%), and abdomen (7%). The results indicated that legs were considered to be a erotic body parts often than the traditionally referred erotic body parts, such as bodice with breast or hip. While direct exposing method (e.g., adhesion, see-though) was frequently used for other body parts.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.330-341
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• 2018

In recent years, a number of Chinese artists are interested in 'Chinese-style'. 'Chinese-style' can be understood as an art form in which Chinese elements are combined with modernized sensibilities. This paper analyzed how Chinese traditional elements can be effectively implemented in fashion photography, focusing on Chen Man, a leading fashion photographer in China. Our research shows that Chen Man looks to the traditions and history of China to inspire her modern work, which makes her unique as a Chinese fashion photographer. She tried not to repetitively express typical images of Chinese elements but to visualize the symbolic meaning of traditional elements as new images of modern China. Through this practice, she were able to effectively communicate the images of products and brands promoted in fashion photos. Furthermore, her works are being recognized by not only the fashion industry but also the international art elite as they contribute to building and promoting Chinese fashion identity. Research on Chen Man's work is significant in providing a new way for 'Chinese-style' fashion photographers to reinterpret Chinese traditional elements without following Chinese tradition.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 1998

In this study fashion illustrations published in American Vogue from 1960 to 1989 were investigated. Among the large number of illustrations published in American Vogue in this period a considerable number of illustrations was chosen: from 1960 to 1969 143 editorial illustrations and 333 advertisement illustrations; from 1970 to 1979 34 editorial illustrations and 168 advertisement illustrations; from 1980 to 1989 123 editorial illustrations and 81 advertisement illustrations. In studying those illustrations the main point was put in finding characteristics and the changing trend of fashion Illustrations. In the sixties editorial fashion illustrations were published mainly during early sixties. The Illustrations of Rene Bouch, Evelyn Marcil, Dagmar and Eunice Moore Sloane took the space of editorials. Among those Illustrators Bouch published most frequently. The companies such as Galey & Lord, Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf Goodman, Bonwit Teller etc. used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The name Kenneth Paul Block, Babara Pearlman and Dorothy Hood can be found very frequently on the illustrations for those companies. Antonio Lopez too published in 1963 some advertisement illustrations. In the seventies the total number of editorial fashion illustrations diminished drastically compared to the number in the sixties. Antonio published in 1973 and 74 fifteen illustrations, Joe Eula published from 1976 to 79 thirteen illustrations, and beside them Mats Gustavson published in 1978 six illustrations. The number of advertisement illustrations decreased a little, but many companies used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The illustrator who worked most actively were Block and Fred Greenhill. In the eighties editorial illustrations experienced a "Renaissance". New high-level illustrators appeared and new fashion illustration magazines were found. Antonio played a central role among illustrators published for editorials in Vogue. In addition to him 15 other illustrators including Mats and Eula with various styles worked for editorials. In contrast to the flourishment of editorial illustrations the number of advertisement illustrations decreased compared to seventies as a result of the domination of fashion photography in this area. Today only few fashion illustrations can be found in fashion magazines. The magazines are dominated by fashion photographs. However fashion illustrations will not totally perish from fashion magazines, because it still has some valuable functions in fashion advertisement. Those functions cannot be fulfilled by photography. Therefore fashion illustration will survive in fashion magazine but playa minor role compared to photography.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.91-96
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• 2008

As the interest on popular culture has began to be expanded to a general living culture through 'Korean Wave(韓流)' and is in profess of the 'strategy to support Korean(韓) brand' to enhance our cultural standard and create a worldwide brand value in traditional culture. The purpose of this thesis is to make suggestion for production of an effective and differentiated advertisement photo in Korean(韓) brand fashion product on the basis of a Korean image. First, the Korean image is like the unique culture or history in Korea which enables us to feel our identity such as Korean clothes, houses, Hangul. Especially it was found out that the characteristic of a traditional costume in our country included a natural beauty, neatness, purity and calmness, etc and positive intention was expressed on a production of a fashion, photo, graphic of a Korean image.