• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.57-64
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• 2013

As the clothing materials have been more functional and advanced, the cotton fabrics for dress shirts or blouses have been more qualified and the sewability for high degree of completion has been required. This study aims to identify the seam strength depending on the change of stitch density of fine cotton fabrics by fabric and thread and so the general seam performance of fine cotton fabrics by analyzing the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams. For an experiment, 3 kinds of fine cotton fabrics and 2 kinds of threads were selected and the sample was made by changing the stitch density by four steps. Then, the seam strength was measured. Next, the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams were analyzed on the basis of the results of seam strength measurement. The results are as follows: All fabrics showed the similar tendency in seam strength. The seam strength is related to the tensile strength and thread strength, it increased only to a certain stitch density. When the stitch density exceeded a certain level, fabrics were destroyed or threads were cut. Then, the seam strength didn't increase. Furthermore, the more the seam strength increased, the more the seam efficiency increased. For increasing the maximum stitch density, it was required to use the fabrics and threads which had similar properties, in other words, the high thread strength for the high tensile strength and the low thread strength for the high tensile strength.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.33-40
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• 2013

This paper focused on investigating the seam strength by cutting direction depending on the fabrics and weave by comparing the tensile strength and elongation of bias, warp and weft of 4 kinds of find cotton fabrics and combining 6 kinds of seam cutting directions. The cutting directions are selected the warp direction, weft direction and 45-degree bias direction. Then, three kinds of directions, the warp/warp direction, the weft/weft direction and the bias/bias directions, and the three different kinds of directions, the warp/weft direction, the warp/bias direction and the weft/bias directions, were finally selected. The results are as follows: The tensile strength of all fabrics was higher in the order of warp, bias and weft direction and tensile elongation was higher in the order of bias, warp and weft direction in almost all fabrics. 100's and 150's cotton fabrics showed the highest seam strength when they were cut in the bias/bias direction. The seam strength of the fabrics cut in the same direction was the highest in the fabrics cut in the bias/bias direction. Four kinds of fabrics demonstrated the similar seam strength. However, for the seam strength of fabrics cut in the different directions, 100's cotton fabrics had the difference of seam strength by direction and weave, but 150's cotton fabrics didn't have any difference in seam strength by direction and weave. As described above, the seam strength was influenced by the cutting direction of fabrics. Accordingly, the seam strength can be improved by changing the cutting direction of seam when making the clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.111-114
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• 2005

In this the study, polyester/cotton(P/C) blended fabrics with fine denier were developed to get the light weight compared with the traditional P/C blended fabrics. Moreover, the width of the fabrics was extended by the tenter during the final heat treatment to get the lower fabric density and lighter weight. Then, the physical properties of these fabrics were analysed. The results were as the follows: The developed fabrics had 22.6-31.6% lighter weight than the traditional fabrics with the same fabric width. The weight of fabric decreased drastically with the fabrics width down to 67.1 $g/m^2$. The fabric density for the warp direction decreased with the fabric width. The tenacity and the elongation of the developed fabrics was little lower than that of the traditional fabrics. The air permeability of the developed fabrics increased with that of the traditional fabrics. The stretch rate of the developed fabrics decreased with increasing the fabric width. Residual stretch rate of the developed fabrics was more stable than that of the traditional fabrics. Residual stretch rate of the developed fabrics increased with the fabric width, but the highest value was less than 5% which is quit stable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.600-606
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• 1997

The dyeing with loess has been studied. Two kinds of cotton fabrics having different thickness and density were dyed in loess paste bath. The color differences of the fabrics which were dyed repeatedly.five times were not significant. The dyeing of cotton fabrics with loess was not exactly reproducible, but dyeability of the cotton fabrics of high density was better than that of low density. Loess on the dye6 fabrics was physically jammed between the fibers in the form of the fine particles. The cotton fabrics dyed with loess have good light fastness, but their laundering fastness and abrasion fastness were not good. An aftertreatment was carried out by using the extracted solution from acorn or persimon, and FeSO4 lot improving fastness. When the dyed fabrics was after-treated with FeSO4, the laundering fastness and wet abrasion fastness were improved extremely.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.181-188
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• 1988

Cotton fabrics were slack-mercerized in sodium hydroxide, ammonia water(min. $28{\%}\;NH_3$), and mixture of ammonia water/sodium hydroxide. The surface of treated cotton fabrics were observed through SEM, and the changes of fine structure were analyzed by X-ray diffractometer. In addition to that shrinkage was compared mutally, and tenacity-elongation compared, too. SEM photographs showed fibrls rearranged strightly toward fibre axis. X-ray diffraction represented increased amorphous fraction, and partial recrystallization into cellulose 2 lattic after treatment with sodium hydroxide and mixture of ammonia water/sodium hydroxide. The mercerization produced increased fibre tenacity-elongation with slark state. Lastly, the best condition of mercerization was $4\%/14\%$, $10^{\circ}C,\;5\~30$ min. in mixture of ammonia/sodium hydroxide.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.51-58
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• 1990

Cotton fabrics were mercerized in ammonia water, sodium hydroxide and mixture of ammonia/sodium hydroxide, slack and under tension. X-ray and infrared spectra analyses were used to measure crystallinity of treated cottons. Changes due to swelling, which took place in the accessible regions were determined by moisture regain and dye adsorption. In addition to that crease recovery was compared mutually, and breaking strength-elongation compared, too. Both ammonia water and caustic treatments produced changes in morphology (swollen fibers, decrease in convolutions) and in fine structure of the cellulose (increase accessibility as measured by increased moisture regain, dye adsorption). X-ray diffraction showed partial recrystallization into cellulose III lattic after tension treatment with ammonia water. Both reagents produced increased cotton elongation-at-break with slack mercerization, increased cotton breaking strength with tension mercerization, and increased moisture regain or dye adsorption with slack mercerization.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.47-54
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• 1994

Cotton fiber, NaOH-mercerized cotton fiber, cotton fabric, and NaOH-mercerized cotton fabric have been treated by liquid ammonia at -33.4$^{\circ}C$. The fine structures, bending properties, tensile strengthes, shrinkages for laundering, and wrinkle recoveries were studied. The treatment of cottons with liquid ammonia brought about the transition of crystal lattice ; transforming cellulose I crystal of original cotton to cellulose I and III crystal, and cellulose II crystal of mercerized cotton to cellulose II and III crystals. The degree of crystallinities were decreased in the order of liquid ammonia>NaOH/liquid ammonia>NaOH-treated cotton. However moisture regain and water absorbency for liquid ammonia-treated cotton were lower than that of NaOH-treated cotton because of a difference in swelling actions of the agents. It seems caused by intermicrofibrillar pores produced in swelling processes. The bending rigidity and bending hysteresis were decreased remarkly by liquid ammonia treatment. Therefore softness and dimensional stability were improved. The liquid amminia and NaOH/liquid ammonia-treated cottons moreover show excellent properties in tensile strength, anti-shrinkage for laundering, and wrinkle recovery.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.4 s.83
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• pp.35-40
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• 2005

Researches to preserve and restore the excavated cellulose fabrics as costume heritages have been carried out. In this study, in order to artificially restore an excavated cellulose fabrics, acid-treated cellulose fabrics were prepared. Three kinds of cellulose fabrics were used for an experiment. Three kinds of cellulose fabrics were treated by the acid aqueous solution for the various strength retention ($100\%,\;80\%,\;60\%,\;40\%,\;20\%$). The fine structure and physical properties of acid treated cellulose fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as wide-angle X-ray diffraction, tensile test, weight loss, shrinkage, SEM etc. Tensile strength and strain of cellulose fabrics decreased with increasing acid treatment time. However, weight loss and shrinkage increasing slightly. The crystal diffraction intensity was not changed. SEM results of acid-treated cellulose fabrics show that the surface was damaged.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.324-333
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• 2011

This study was accomplished for the purpose of developing a textile processing ingredient that is harmless to the human body and environment. The research method consists of dyeing cotton textiles by extracting the dye solution from ginseng. Then, chrominance, after treatment, antibacterial ratio and deodorization ratio of cotton fabrics dyed with ginseng extracts were tested and results were examined. The research procedure involved first extracting the dye solution from the ginseng's by-product (fine roots) and then dyeing was effectuated differently according to the test samples temperature and dyeing time requirements. Brightness in all dye substances was lower in pre-mordanting. Beige color could be extracted from pre-mordanted samples. And dark orange from postmordanted samples. Color-festness was high in all samples. Most of samples show a big antibacterial ratio and deodorization ratio. Through this research it has been discovered that, when applied to textiles, Korea's ginseng extract possessed reproducibility features as a natural dye and a possibility to be used in cutting which plays a crucial role in hygienic processing. In addition, by using ginseng's by-product for dyeing processing as the dye solution, efficient application of resources and occurrences of no water waste damages were demonstrated and thus, proved to be environmentally-friendly. Specifically, through this experiment, it was found that saponin, ginseng's special characteristics, possessed excellent antibacterial odor repelling functions to clothing as well as the capability to prevent skin disease.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.49-58
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of covering yarn's twist on mechanical properties of knitted fabrics of composite yarns with single covering process. Four yarns that were used in this study: two different composite yarns made from the four kinds of cotton and functional polyester-(Poly-A) with the ratio of 52:48, and the rest two yarns are the original cotton 100% yarn and the poly-A 100% yarn. The two kinds of composite yarns, CP1 and CP2, were processed on the single covering process. CP1 was applied on the single covering process with S-800 tpm, where Poly-A was used as covering yarn and cotton was used as core yarn. CP2 was applied on the same process as CP1 except that Poly-A had been applied on the two-for-one twisting process with S-400 tpm on the previous step. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the four knifed fabrics knitted under the same knitting conditions were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. And 3D CAD dressmaking simulations, which were driven by some of the mechanical properties, were presented. The results were as follows: CP2 had high RT values with twisting of covering yarn. CP2 also had high B, 2HB values because of higher linear density. SMD was affected rather by twisting of covering yarn than by fine hair of the cotton surface. Twisting of covering yarn made it decreasing T value and increasing W value. Dressmaking 3D CAD simulations showed that there are buckling effects on CP2 because of high bending rigidity and shear rigidity.