• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.142-155
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• 2005

This study shows historical Gagye(가계) The process of change and Characteristics through analysis on the old documents, related papers, and visual data, and represents its meaning in Korean Clothing history through analysis on originality of Korean Gagye(가계) style. Gagye(가계) is the cubic hair style which add other accessories on hair and is divided into two; Gagye(가계) and Chegye(체계) according to its material, role, and function. And Korean Gagye(가계) has been transformed suited to the times and showed various features according to pattern, wearing, and decoration aspect. In its style aspect, Korean Gagye(가계) style shows Hwangye type, Sseugae type, Gogye type, Dagye type, and Braided & coiled hair type. Each shows historical features. In its Wearing aspect, Gagye(가계) style shows Wearing ornamental hairpin on the head, Wearing Rag Ribbon on the head, and Attaching (Detaching) Wearing. And in its Decoration aspect, Gagye(가계) style shows decoration with accessories, one with flower arrangement, and one with shaking.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.67-76
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• 2006

This study delves into the Gache Prohibition Order during the Chosun Dynasty and researches the changes of the Gagye style caused by Gache Prohibition Order comparing both the pre-prohibition order and post-prohibition order and analyzing its related remains, old documents, and other researches about the Gache Prohibition order. The Gache Prohibition order during the Chosun Dynasty had contributed to the changes of the Gagye styles such as Sseu-gye, Hwan-gye, and Eoneun hair styles. Dae-su and Eo-yu-mi Gache in Sseu-gye style had been rarely used while Hwa-gwan and Jok-du-ri were often used in the Sseu-gye style. In the Hwan-gye style, Hwan-gye of Geo-du-mi was replaced with wood. Form and bulk in Eoneun hair had been minimized and changed into new types of The Gache Prohibition order of the Chosun Dynasty had affected the Gagye style in the following ways: First, in the aspect of style, the Gagye style was used to decrease volume. Second, the Practical science of the Chosun Dynasty had affected clothing in terms of actuality, convenience, simplicity, and openness. Third, the Gache Prohibition Order affected the Gagye style as well as the re-understanding of the beauty of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.4 s.218
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• pp.39-47
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• 2006

This study considers the Gagye(Added Hair) style shown in ancient Goguryeo Murals and examines its values and significance through an in-depth study on the relevance to the style of China. In Gagye style, the Korean Hwan-gye(Round-rolled Hair) hair type was different from that of China in letting the hair down and using accessories. The Korean Sseu-gye(Covered Hair) hair type features textile-made and Bokbal (Covered hair) styles. The Korean Go-gye(Highly-rolled up Hair) hair type was different from that of China in style and volume. The Korean Da-gye(Multi-laid Hair) hair type was different from that of China in component pattern in that the Korean Da-gye type was composed of two or three gyes. Eoneun meori (Braided & Coiled Hair) features the unique Goguryeo pattern in which "Che" was placed on the head and the hair was braided down on the sides of the face. Therefore, the Gagye style of Goguryeo Murals was localized and developed through cultural interchange between Goguryeo and China. It also features its own values and significance in Korea's clothing history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.778-789
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• 2012

The characteristics of ancient gagye (the cubic hair style which added wigs or other materials to hair) that appeared in mural paintings were compared between Pyongyang and Jian in Goguryeo and the midlands, the northwest region, and the northeast region in China for the same period (Han to Weijin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties). Gagye in Korea and China was classified into circle type, hat type, high-bun type, and multi-bun type; in addition, Han elements, northern race elements, Goguryeo elements, and uniqueness were compared and analyzed according to regional distribution, trend periods, and style characteristics. The Han elements of ancient gagye in Korea and China appeared in the hat type, the high-bun type, and accessories that left the hair down. The northern race elements were found in the circle type and multi-bun type. The uniqueness of Goguryeo elements included a circle from the circle type, a triangle style from the hat type, an up-do style from the high burn type, and simplified hair accessories.