• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.306-325
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• 2017

This study analyzed how a time-honored fashion house has harmonized its design identity over a sustained period with its successor designers. Givenchy Fashion House was selected as the subject of this study. This study focused on literary research, analyzed design features and fashion images based on photos of Huber de Givenchy's collections (1952-1995) and collections by Riccardo Tisci (2006-2016), the creative director of the house. Photos were gathered from books and fashion websites; in addition design was analyzed based on a review by experts on collections. The results are as follows. Hubert de Givenchy won fame for simplified modern elegance that presented a new beauty for modern women and reached the peak of his career from the 1950s to the 1960s. Riccardo Tisci respected the couture tradition of the Givenchy Fashion House. He successfully revitalized the house by simultaneously emphasizing his personal design features and reinterpreting the design identity as well as tried to establish new house signatures. In conclusion, the original design identity of the Givenchy Fashion House is based on Hubert de Givenchy's timeless modern elegance that has been reformed by Riccardo Tisci as romantic goth and sensual elegance.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.10
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• pp.37-48
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• 2008

This study re-examines new aesthetic values pursued by Givenchy, analyzing by the Haute Couture line's chief designers. The following conclusions have been reached: Hubert de Givenchy pursued modernity, infused with simplicity and structured stability. In particular, Audrey Hepburn, who was a loyal client and used his line in several movies, provided him the platform for international exposure which he used to further develop what became known as the "Hepburn" style. The subsequent brief tenure of John Galliano did yield the fantastic and magnificent "Galliano-style", but with irregularity. Based on romanticism, it redefined fashion using a wide range of colors, subjects and decoration. His successor, Alexander McQueen, applied opposite elements using a hybrid technique of pastiche, parody and collage. With innovative inspiration he compromised the concepts of gender, time, space and cultures and recreated futuristic forms of nature, animals, insects and mythical images. Julien Macdonald, who was appointed in 2001 as the Artistic Director for the women's collections, minimized his individual style and preferred feminine, graceful and sexy silhouettes. He breathed fresh life in to Givenchy Haute Couture, reinterpreting the Hepburn style in a modernistic mode. Being passed on the responsibility for both collections (i.e., haute couture and ready-to-wear) in 2005, Riccardo Tisci redefined elegance, combining his unique and tailored gothic style with Givenchy's grace. He is developing the future of Givenchy, experimenting with volume, silhouettes, new kinds of fabric and techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.117-130
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the 'sexy look' of the Paris Haute Couture evening dresses of the past 10 years from 2005 to 2014. The results are as follows: According to the occurrence frequency analysis of the fashion images of sexy look evening dress, the type of sexy look that appeared the most is the romantic sexy look, followed by erotic sexy look, ethnic sexy look, minimal sexy look and avant-garde sexy, respectively. According to the design component-specific analysis of evening dress for each Haute Couture house, 7 Haute Couture houses have used H-line silhouette over the past 10 years, each H-line silhouette being different. In terms of material, Valentino, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Chanel and Dior have shown a trend of favoring see-through material, Gaultier and Armani showed a lot to combine different materials. In terms of color, Valentino, Chanel, Dior, Gaultier, Armani have shown a general trend in the last 10 years to express sexy look by using attractive and mystical black tones, Elie Saab has shown skin color a lot by using brown family colors and Givenchy has used white family colors. According to the design components analysis for each sexy look fashion image, the H-line silhouette showed the most frequency to represent sexy looks. In terms of material, avant-garde sexy look, ethnic sexy look and minimal sexy look showed a lot to combine different materials to express sexy looks, but erotic sexy look and romantic sexy look are characterized by using thin see-through material. As for the color, black series has been most represented in the last 10 years for the Haute Couture evening dress sexy look.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.711-720
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• 2003

The purposes of the study were to categorize eroticism expressed in modern fashion and to find out any significant difference in erotic expressions among designer brands and fashion seasons. The research methods was a documentary analysis. The documentary materials were 180 photographs randomly selected from fashion photographs of 3 major designer brand collections, from 1995 S/S to 2000 A/W. The data were analyzed by contents analysis, frequency, crosstabs. Results were as follows; 1) The existence of erotic expressions in modern fashion was found in 107 (59.4%) out of 180 fashion photographs and the eroticism was one of the major themes in the later 1990's fashion. 2) The erotic expression in the modern fashion were categorized into 5 categories exposure, adhesion, transparency, exposure+adhesion, and adhesion+transparency. The major erotic expression was exposure which was followed by adhesion and transparency. 3) The degree of erotic expression were separated into 3 levels-strong, medium, weak. The erotic levels in the modern fashion ranged between medium and weak; medium level 43%, weak 42% and strong 15%. 4) The erotic expression and the degree of erotic expression showed differences according to three designer brands. Chanel brand used less erotic expression than Christian Dior or Givenchy. Christian Dior brand showed the tendency of strongest erotic level while the Chanel brand showed the weakest level. 5) The erotic expression and the degree of erotic expression showed differences according to fashion seasons. Spring and summer seasons used more erotic expression than autumn and winter. In spring and summer seasons, exposure and transparency were methods used more frequently for erotic expressions, while adhesion was stronger themes in autumn and winter seasons.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.19-29
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is for consideration of John Galliano's fashion design works. Galliano, young British designer, became the chief designer of Givenchy in 1995 and of Christian Dior in 1996. Through fashion information from WWD, High Fashion, Mode et Mode, Collezioni, Vogue, Internet sites and video tapes from 1995 to 1999, his works were concerned for this study. The results are as followed; First, we can find dynamics in Galliano's works. The dynamic mood came from his study about historic costume. Second, new beauty from dismantling and reconstruction was expressed on his designs. Third, his experimental creativities were based on fashion business. Therefore Galliano's eccentricity signify the Maximalism against the Minimalism which dominated the end of 20th century. So we can find a clue to new millenium in fashion world in his designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.109-127
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• 2002

As modern fashion trends show oriental motif since the transition of post-modernism, a number of great fashion designers such as Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gautier applied the concept of Orientalism to their fashion design. Total fashion is a trend in which make-up, hair-style, and accessories. together with clothing itself are considered a complete fashion as a whole, and sometimes appeals much to consumers. Given that the previous studies on Orientalism have focused only on clothing. this research aims at examining Orientalism with a total fashion approach to simultaneously study make-up, hair-style, accessories, and clothing, and showing that traditional oriental beauty is expressed by total fashion in which the past appeared again through the process of creative application. We analyzed the Orientalism total fashion from 1990 through 2001 and summarized the national differences among these countries in the following. First, China has a uniformed clothing. make-up, and hair-style as shown its traditional play, "KyungKeuk" and traditional costume, Chipao. Second, Japanese unique traditional costume has been passed on through its traditional costume, Kimono, and traditional play, "Kabuki" Finally, in Korea, make-up, hair-style and the design of the traditional costume. Hanbok, as appeared in "Myindo(means a picture of a beauty) Painted in the Chosun Era are applied and reappeared without much change. It is advised to note that the Orientalism fashion to be discussed in this study is limited to China, Japan, and Korea in Asia.Japan, and Korea in Asia.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2016

This study analyzes consumers' preference trend, positive and negative factors in regards to luxury brands by researching changes in the consumer awareness of luxury brands, preference trends and psychological awareness based on big data to suggest a creative business strategy for corporations that can help Korean brands enter global luxury brand markets. The study results are as follows. Preferred items (consumer) psychology, positive awareness and negative awareness were derived based on the last five years of social big data on Korean consumers' preferred brands. First, the Korean consumers' preferred brands for the recent five years indicated that Dolce & Gabbana (2013), ESCADA (2012), Gucci (2011, 2009) and Chanel (2010) were most preferred and Prada, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Burberry, Fendi, Givenchy and Dior were also shown to be preferred brands. Second, bags (such as shoulder bags) were shown to be the most preferred items for luxury brand items that consumers wished to own. Third, it was analyzed that keywords for consumer psychology in regards to luxury brands included: diverse, new, outstanding, overwhelming, luxurious, glamorous, worldwide, famous, success and good. Fourth, consumers' positive awareness regarding luxury brands included: diverse, luxury, famous, outstanding, perfect, bright and luxurious. Fifth, negative awareness included: price factors of expensive, high price and excessive as well as factors to be improved upon such as old, bland, flashy, crude, unfriendly and fake.