• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.4
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• pp.38-57
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• 2017

Traditional costume in Indonesia represents identity of a person and it displays the origin and the status of the person. Where culture and religion are fused, the traditional costume serves one of the most functions in rituals in Bali. This research aims to analyze the characteristics of Balinese costumes by focusing on the Legong dance costume. Quantitative research was performed using 332 images of Indonesian costumes and 210 images of Balinese ceremonial costumes. Qualitative research was performed by doing field research in Puri Saba, Gianyar and SMKN 3 SUKAWATI(Traditional Art Middle School). The paper illustrates the influence and structure of Indonesian traditional costume. As the result, focusing on the upper wear costume showed that the ancient era costumes were influenced by animism. They consist of tube(kemben), shawl(syal), corset, dress(terusan), body painting and tattoo, jewelry(perhiasan), and cross. The Modern era, which was shaped by religion, consists of baju kurung(tunic) and kebaya(kaftan). The Balinese costume consists of the costume of participants and the costume of performers. Bali dancing is grouped into Wali dance(sacred), Bebali dance(theatrical), and Balih-balihan dance(entertainment). The Legong dance is included in the Balih-balihan dance, and its costume developed from 1920 until present. The characteristics of Legong dance costumes are 'Theatrical,' 'Angelic,' 'Charming,' and 'Decorative.' In conclusion, the balance of religion, culture, and art gives a unique trait in Bali. The Balinese social system, which is based on Hinduism, has influenced art and its function. This relationship creates a strong structure to the Balinese ceremonial costume, especially the Legong dance costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.117-132
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• 2012

This study explored public awareness and donning practices of traditional and religious dresses among Indonesian Muslim. The relevant literature was reviewed first, and in-depth interviews and survey were followed to achieve the purpose of the study. Sarung and Kain Panjang are the most representative unisex traditional clothing of Indonesia. Traditional male dresses include Kemeja Batik, Beskap, Peci(Kopiah) and Blangkon. Traditional female dresses include Kebaya, Baju Kurung, Baju Bodo, Kemben, Rok Batik and Slendang. Baju Koko, Sarung and Peci(Kopiah) are the most well-known Muslim male dress items. Muslim female dresses are more diverse than men's. For traditional and religious dresses, which were identified from literature study, public awareness and donning practices were examined with survey data. Indonesian people consider Kebaya, Sarung, and Batik as the most important traditional dresses which convey national identity. Peci(Kopiah), Baju koko, and Jilbab(Kerudung) are highly mentioned as the representatives of Muslim dresses. Indonesian Muslims report that they own these representative dresses commonly. Peci and Sarung are included both in religious and traditional dresses, demonstrating that the two items are the representative crossovers of their religion and the tradition of the country. For both traditional and Muslim dresses, Indonesian people think that aesthetics and traditional values are more relevant than practical value. Lastly, it is found that traditional dresses are parts of the daily wear of Indonesian people from the fact that they wear traditional dresses more than once a week.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.83-94
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• 2005

This paper is to analyze patterns for Indonesian traditional textiles. Ikat is the resist-dyeing process in which designs are reserved in warp or weft yams by tying off small bundles of threads with fiber resists to prevent the penetration of dye. Batik is the technique applying a wax resist before dyeing to form a pattern in negative. Ikat and batik are the most renowned textile arts of Indonesia. Patterns are classified as geometric pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern. Also this paper discusses the origins of ikat and batik. Therefore this Paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of ikat and batik patterns. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive pattern design for Indonesian textile market.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.85-92
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• 2009

The objectives of the research are to explain the nature of cultural diffusion and its associated theoretical concepts, to review the nature of traditional Indonesian textiles and to focus particular attention on the origin, evolution and diffusion of motifs and patterns associated with the decoration of two important categories of Indonesian textiles: batiks and ikats. Cultural diffusion refers to the process by which cultural traits, material objects, ideas, inventions, innovations or patterns of behaviour are spread from one social or geographical context to another. Examining the decoration on traditional textiles produced across the Indonesian archipelago, certain motifs and patterns are shown to have been retained from ancient times, and others have been adopted from elsewhere. There is great cultural diversity across the archipelago and ample evidence of cultural diffusion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.392-402
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• 2012

The norm for everyday costume in India and Indonesia had consisted of either draped garments or loincloths. However, as the Islamic values spread in these countries various tailored clothes began to be worn. In order to study this spread of tailored clothes, the researcher first looked at the historical background which was the origin of Islamic costumes and its unique traits through the works of literature. Based on these findings, the researcher tried to identify the Islamic elements in the costumes of India and Indonesia. The researcher put forward the following conclusion: In India, people began to wear Islamic costumes after the establishment of Mughul Empire (1526~1857) in the 16th century, despite the Islamic invasion in the early 8th century. The pants that the ruling class of Islam wore such as shalwar, churidar and coats in the style of kaftan as well as turban spread quickly throughout the nation and now they are important part of Indian traditional costumes. Also in Indonesia, people began to wear tailored clothes as they accepted Islamic faith. The Indonesian costumes which exposed the upper body part may have been suitable for the climate but it was inappropriate according to the Islamic precepts. The religious beliefs led to the creation of the unique Indonesian sarong, wraps such as kain panjang and a new type of traditional costumes that combined the elements of pants or tunic from the Islamic culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.457-465
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• 2013

It's been a common knowledge that Indonesia has a multicultural nature which produces a rich civilization, traditional textiles is one of the examples. Indonesian textile is one of the earlier/oldest artefacts being studied. The wide range of its selections also a proof that Indonesia already had an advanced culture. In Indonesia, textile isn't just a mere cloth; it also used to refer your social statuses, a ritual complements aspect, and many other symbolic purposes. Celebes textiles just a small example how rich this country culture is. The purpose of this study was to convince people that Indonesian traditional textile has a potential to stand in same ground with any modern textile produced around the world.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.264-273
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• 2019

Fashion as a field of cultural studies is a very complex field that is very interesting to discuss, especially in Indonesia as the very rich country in cultures and past traditions. This research will discuss the development of fashion in Bali, one area that is opulent in its cultures. Based on the research conducted by today's fashion development, Bali is still strongly influenced by factors inherited from traditional values that exist in the Balinese culture. This research is conducted by applying the qualitative method with the ethnography approach to unravel any factor in Bali so that it becomes the foundation and triggers the rapid development of fashion by still maintaining the values of the tradition. Considering that the values of tradition as a whole have a good impact on the preservation of the natural balance and various factors that exist in society, whether these factors still exist in other regions of Indonesia and they are possible to be developed in various regions of Indonesia. So hopefully the development of fashion in Indonesia as a whole can maintain the local content that characterizes the Indonesian Nation and have a positive impact on the balance of nature and also to the community in Indonesia and the world culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.199-214
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• 2020

The study investigates Atlas fabrics, the Ikat weaving method used by the Uygur People in Xinjiang, China. Based on domestic and foreign papers and other literature, different cultural characteristics of Ikat fabrics from various regions are compared. Following a theoretical investigation, characteristics of fabrics from the Indian Patola, Indonesian Ikat, Japanese Kasuri, and Uzbekistan Adras are summarized and compared with the characteristics of pattern, color, and manufacturing process of Atlas silk from Xinjiang China (also an Ikat fabric). The results are as follows. First, although the weaving process used for Ikat fabrics differs from country to country according to different national cultures, lifestyles, colors, patterns, and usage methods, they are all Ikat dyed fabrics. Therefore, they are all regarded as precious objects symbolizing a certain social status, and are used as a gift for special occasions, such as weddings. Second, the form of the pattern varies. Indian Patola has clear outlines and regular patterns, while the patterns of Japanese Kasuri are mainly inspired by folk life ideas. Indonesian Ikat contains influences from indigenous tribes, and Uzbekistan's and China's Atlas textiles are influenced by geography, religion, and national culture, including bright colors and pattern designs inspired by plants, musical instruments, and geometric figures. Finally, the patterns and colors of Xinjiang Atlas fabrics present strong ethnic characteristics. Unlike the Uzbekistan fabric which is mostly influenced by Islam, human and animal patterns would not feature in Xinjiang Atlas patterns, which mostly consist of long strips, repeated in a neat and orderly form.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.111-120
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• 2012

Indonesia has a wealth of traditional textiles that are spread in every corner of its region, each of them has its own characteristics and uniquennes. Among the diversity of decorative and techniques used, there are also peculiarities arising from the coloring techniques, that is staining with natural dyes. The existence and the authenticity of the coloring techniques are still retained in some places in Indonesia until today. Generally, these societies make the fabric-making process as part of the ritual beliefs. One of which are the societies in Tenganan, Bali, an area in Bali which always use fabric as an important part in every traditional ceremony. The fabrics is known by the name Geringsing. The typically color which shown and also the sacred values that accompany make Geringsing a very special woven fabric and cannot be found in other areas. This is one of the local geniuses that need to be preserved. In addition to its unique techniques and special materials, Geringsing woven also keeps its myth and its philosophy. The emersion of Geringsing woven closely related to the community trust in God Indra as the main protector deity. The necessary initial process of making Geringsing is holding special ceremony attended by various circles of Tenganan village society. People in Tenganan believe that Geringsing is a precious heritage avoiding all diseases and disorders of evil spirits.