• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.478-485
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• 2007

This survey is about the disposition of ornament for the traditional women's Jegori and Chima in North and South Korea. And the results are as follows: Disposition of part was used a lot in Jegori and Chima by both North and South Korea. In the existence of ornament, the number and range decorated part and a type of disposition, there were the differences between North and South Korea. There were not many Chimas with ornament in South Korea, which means that South Korea focused on decorating Jegori. The number and range of decorated part in South Korea were many. Disposition type of Jegori ornament in South Korea was various but in North Korea disposition of type of Chima ornament was various. Compared to the traditional disposition, South Korea's Jegori tended to follow the traditional disposition. In case of Chima in North and South Korea and Jegori in North Korea, the proportion of traditional disposition, altered traditional disposition and modern disposition was little different.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.60-73
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• 2007

This Study is on the excavated clothing from lady Lee' tomb in spring 2003, on Chungjoo Province. These are significant as the 18th century's real clothing, we examine the real Jegories as possible and the results shows there are two group in sizes. we regard the large Jegori is for the dead as a shroud, the small one is for daily. it shows that Jegori for the dead is about 1.3 larger than a daily one, we can see Jegori for the dead was going to be large from the 18th century, and it's needlework was not fine than daily one, but the Color and the material on should look like as daily in this time, and the motif is cloud pattern, we can see two changes in daily Jegori that one thing is to be short and narrow, the other is to be curve at the corner of collar(Gitmuri), the corner of edge(supco), the below line of sleeve(baerae) in the daily Jegori.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.150-162
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• 2014

This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.113-121
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the types and characteristics of wedding ceremony robes in the Jeju area from the 1950's to the 1980's. The analysis used 413 wedding pictures. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The following are the propotion of robe types used wedding ceremonies. 1.0% of Danryeong & Jangot, 6.5% of Danryeong & Wonsam, 1.5% of Danryeong & Chima+Jegori, 2.7% of Durumaki & Chima+Jegori, 24.7% of suit & Chima+Jegori and 63.7% of suit & wedding dress from the 1950's to the 1980's. 2. The Korean-style robes gradually decreased from the 1950's, and disappeared in the 1970's. The Chima+Jegori was introduced in the 1950's, reached its peak in the 1960's and its popularity continued to the 1970's. In the 1980's, after the Korean-style robes disappeared, the western ceremony robes were used in all the ceremonies. 3. After the Western-style robes, in which a bride wears a wedding dress, was introduced in the 1960's, its usage rapidly increased in the 1970's and is still popular today.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.109-121
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• 2013

Modern Hanbok uses newly different color coordination based on traditional color coordination and symbolic meaning. Thus, this study would investigate the aspects of color coordination and symbolic meaning and present the characteristics of Hanbok as the data of corresponding period in the modern times. In order to investigate recent trend of preferred colors and color coordination of Hanbok, this study focused on the period of 2005~2010. When analyzing colors of Jegori(jacket), Wh, Y, B, YG, P and Gy series are shown in order. For trends for color of Chima(skirt), Pk, R, P, Gy and Bk series are shown in order. When you look into the color coordination of skirt and jacket on whole, color coordination of Pk-Wh represents the highest frequency. Color coordinations of Pk-Y, Pk-B, R-Y, R-G and Pk-G are followed in order. Color coordinations of R-YG, Bk-Wh, O-Y, P-Wh, Pk-YG, Gy-Y, R-Wh series and Gy-Wh are followed in order. When looking into characteristics of overall color coordination of Hanbok, it was shown that there were many opportunities to meet a variety of culture and various colors had emerged depending on individual taste and skin color in the modern times within the framework of basic colors of woman's 'Nokeuihongsang'(Green upper garment and red skirt) R-G, Y series, which are traditionally inherited. In addition, unlike existing traditional color coordination of five elements in the past, P, Gy and Bk series of color appeared in the skirt and Jacket. It could be affected by fashionable drama and films at that time and newly attempted colors ahead of fashion were reflected on the magazine. Therefore, it implied that it naturally gave new awareness of colors to the general public and the width of selection of colors became diverse.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.76-90
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• 2010

Gwa-du(裹肚), name of a garment, appears often from documentary records of Joseon Dynasty. It is assumed as one of the upper garments for men, and according to the record, it was worn as a set with Dan-ryung(團領), Dap-ho(搭胡), Chul-rik(帖裏), Han-sam(汗衫), pants and socks. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in the 17th century, it changes to a shape of wrapping clothes with straps at four corners, and used to cover the stomach of a corpse like sash. From 16th-17th century, before the Japanese Invasion of Korea, the excavated costume shows a clothing which takes a role of Jegori, longer than Han-sam(汗衫) and shorter than Po(袍). In this study, this clothing is called Gwa-du(裹肚). This study examined the usage and shape of Kwa-du from some documentary records- "朝鮮王朝實錄-The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", "禮書- Book of Manners", "宮中件記- Googjoonghalkee, recording court goods and commodities lists" and more with actual clothing. Kwa-du is presumed to have changed to men's Jegori So-chang-ui(小氅衣) after 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.71-86
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• 2008

The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.135-144
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• 2007

This study is about the three pieces of jackets with a symmetric collar that was used to fill in the empty spaces in coffin excavated in 2004, from Seok-nam-dong, Nam-gu, Incheon. The similarities of these three jackets are that the collars are symmetric, there are seops(the outer bodies to overlap the front sides of a jacket) with pleats, and openings on the side seam. The No.2, and No.6 seem to be jegori to wear over others, and the fabrics used for No.2 is damask with cloud pattern, and damask with lotus flower pattern. For the No.4, satin was used and there is peacock pattern weaved on satin using golden thread. No.41 is unlined clothes made with Suk-cho, and the distinctive feature about this clothes is that the collar, and the neckline are very narrow. The three jackets are similar with the recently reported clothes of Kim clan of Gang-leung (deducted to be buried in 1520), the collection of Seok Joo-sun Memorial Museum. Through this report, it provides information about some aspects of upper class women's clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.125-136
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• 2007

This study is about the excavated female shroud while moving the graveyard of Nam-yang Hong clan in Yang-pyeong, Gyeonggi Province to other place. It is acquired as Yeon-An Kim clan who is a wife of one of Nam-yang Hong clan and history is estimated to 16th Century. Significance of this excavated female costumes is, 1) a Dan-ryeong, which is typical costumes during 16C. for woman is excavated. It is embroidered with peacocks shaped badge in fore and backside on a clothes, which is understood as the symbol of highest status but it is considered as much higher than actual status of her husband. from this, we can assume that burial costumes and regulation for actual clothes by the status are not exactly matched. 2) Various form of Chima and Jegori also found in the grave along with a Buddhist banner(幡) printed with Darani(多羅尼) which is unusual in Chosun dynasty, under confucian influence. 3) An embroidered design pillow was collected first time, which make us enable to understand the in-house life style of 16C.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.439-448
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• 2023

Korea's original traditional costume designs have a great potential to be re-imagined from a global perspective and developed into high-value-added fashion culture products that can enter the international market. This study applied the structural features of traditional clothing to the design of fashion cultural products. This study developed designs using Beja, Sagyusam, Aekjuem-po, Danlyeong, Cheolrik, Jang-jegori of Korea. To the best of our knowledge, this study is the first to conduct a literature survey of traditional Korean clothing. We designed shirts using Adobe Illustrator and created a pattern with the Yuka program. This design was applied to a three dimensional virtual dressing system called CLO. A survey of individual interest in developed fashion cultural products was also conducted. The shirt designs were obtained by applying the details and structural characteristics of traditional Korean clothing. Among the six shirt designs, when asked which design would be suitable for wearing, gifting, or uniform, the shirts with the design of Danlyeong, Beja, and Sagyusam were generally highly preferred. This study can be used as basic data for the global market for fashion cultural products, and can contribute to the inheritance and development of culture and tradition by maintaining Korea's uniqueness in the modern global era and increasing tourism revenue.