• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.261-267
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• 2002

Cotton fabrics were immersed in aqueous solution of N-methylmorpholine N-oxide(NMMO) with various concentrations, padded by 300% of pick-up, concentrated at $90^\circ{C}$ for 30min under constant-length condition, washed, and dried, to examine a possibility of linen-like finishing by the solvent bonding between fibers. With increasing the concentration of NMMO, cross-sections of fibers changed to oval or polygonal shapes and not only the fibers but also the warp and weft were bonded each other, which produced linen-like effect on the fabrics in the aspects of appearance and mechanical properties such as the Increase of stiffness and shear properties. The thickness, moisture regain and dyeability were increased with the concentration of NMMO.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.439-447
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to explore the accuracy and reliability of subjective evaluation instruments in evaluating sensibility of similar fabrics, Kendall's coefficient of concordance W (agreement among subjects) and Spearman rank correlation coefficient (reproducibility after 1 week) were used to evaluate which one is more efficient. Eight kinds of linen-like silk fabrics finished with polyurethane resin were used, Subjective evaluation instruments such as rating scale method, contrasting method against a control, rank ordering method, paired comparison and Quad analysis were used, 'Stiffness and Pliability' and 'Preference of summer fabric' were estimated, From the result of subjective stiffness and pliability, which are effective on objective properties of fabric, the rating scale method in Kendall's coefficient of concordance W and Quad analysis in Spearman rank correlation coefficient were given the highest score, From the result of subjective preference of summer fabric, which are effective on individual sensibility, contrasting method against a control in Kendall's coefficient of concordance W and Quad analysis in Spearman rank correlation coefficient revealed the highest score, Regarding the accuracy, reliability and efficiency, Quad analysis was an efficient method for subjective evaluation of linen-like silk fabrics.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.363-376
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• 2003

The purpose of this research was to investigate the property of sensibility of silk fabrics by the linen-like finishing-used polyurethane resin. Subjective evaluations of preference and related sensory descriptors were estimated. Also, related physical and psychological variables were measured. And their correlations were investigated. The value of EM, WT, WC, MIU, and qmax of silk fabrics treated with polyurethane resin decreased and LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, and SMD increased. Physical variables which affected on the preference of summer fabrics are B, 2HB, G, 2HG5, qmax, MIU and LT. It was confirmed that silk fabrics treated with polyurethane resin were preferred as a summer fabric. Individual sensibilities that had effects on the preference of summer fabrics were softness including rough and cold. The intensities of weight value on sensory descriptors, which were related with the preference in summer environments, were in following orders: cold, rough, slippery, flexible, stiff and damp. There was no relationship between the subjective evaluation of preference and related sensory descriptors on the fabric and comfort sensation of fabric was derived from psychological variables

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.22-30
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• 2004

The polyester fabrics were treated with the chitosan with various solubility in optimized treatment condition. The treatment method was discussed to be a high functional finishing for the polyester fabric to obtain the high moisture absorption and anti-microorganism property by evaluating the effect of the chitosan purification method on the yield and anti-microorganism property of the chitosan. On the other hand, soluble polyurethane was added to the chitosan treatment solution and/or plasma pretreatment was done. The addition of soluble polyurethane give a high add-on ratio as well as a linen like effect of treated polyester fabric. The results were as follows: 1. In the treatment of polyester fabric by the chitosan solution, a soluble PU resin and low temperature plasma treatment were done to obtain high binding force between the fabrics and the chitosan. The add-on rate and the moisture absorption ratio of the fabrics treated with the chitosan-PU after treated with the plasma slightly increased more than those of the fabrics treated with the chitosan only. 2. Anti-static property of the fabrics treated with the chitosan decreased rapidly with increasing of the chitosan concentration. The washing fastness of the fabrics treated with the chitosan-PU after treated with the plasma was better than those of the fabrics treated with chitosan only. The wrinkle resistance of the treated fabrics decreased constantly with the concentration of the chitosan. The bending rigidity of the treated fabrics increased greatly. On the treatment of polyester fabric under optimum condition, the microorganism reduction rate kept above 90％ after 10times launderings. 3. As the polyester fabrics which has flat yam was used as a weft yams were treated with the chitosan-PU as give a functional finishing effects such as durability, moisture absorption, anti-static and anti- microorganism property. Treated polyester fabric showed a good functional finishing effect and a linen like property.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.161-171
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• 2013

The purpose of this research was to examine the subjective evaluation of sensory images and preferences according to the mechanical properties of linen and ramie fabrics for summer shirts. 54 male and female teachers evaluated the sensory images and preferences of 6 specimens of linen and ramie fabrics sold on the market. For statistical analysis, factor analysis, Mann-Whitney and Kruskal-Wallis test, Pearson correlation, and regression were used. The results were as follows: The sensory images of shirt fabrics were classified into 5 factors: 'smoothness', 'stiffness', 'elasticity', 'dry/coolness', and 'wetness'. There were partially significant differences by the gender and age in the sensory images for the shirt fabrics. Females were more sensitive than males for the 'stiffness', 'elasticity', and 'wetness' factor and the evaluators in their 20's felt fabrics were stiffer. The sensory images showed many correlations with the mechanical properties of fabric mostly. The preferences of tactile and purchase were no different according to the gender and age. They preferred a thin and soft sensory image as like ramie/cotton blended fabric and bamboo fabric for summer shirts. The significant sensory image factors affecting tactile preference were 'smoothness', 'dry/coolness', and 'elasticity', and the ones affecting purchase preference were 'smoothness', 'stiffness', 'dry/coolness', and 'elasticity'. W, WT, MMD, and G properties of the mechanical properties of fabrics affected the tactile preference for summer shirt fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.151-158
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• 1997

This study was to find out the differences of the characteristics on chitosan from source, the crab and the shrimp. Chitosan was depolymerized in NaBO₃·4H₂O under various reaction time and temperature. 4 Chosen chitosan dissolved in acetic acid and treated to cotton fabrics. The cotton fabrics treated with chitosan showed an exellent antibacterial activity irrespective of the viscosity. Stiffness of the treated cotton fabrics increased 3∼8 times than untreated cotton fabric, it gives harshness to treated cotton fabrics, it gives harshness to treated cotton fabrics like linen. Air permeability of the treated cotton fabrics increased. Stiffness and air permeability are respective to viscosity of the chitosan.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2002.04a
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• pp.281-284
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• 2002

마 섬유는 흡습성이 좋고 건조가 빠르고, 습윤 시 강도가 증가되며 열전도율이 크고 통기성이 크며, 강도와 내열성이 천연 섬유 중 가장 우수하며 매끄러운 표면을 가지고있어서 광택과 방오성이 좋다. 그러나 세사방적이 어렵고 강연도가 지나치게 커서 의복소재로서 극히 제한적으로 사용되어왔으나, 최근에는 큰 강연도를 장점으로 활용하여 여름용 의복소재로 다시 각광받고 있다. 따라서 면, 레이온, 셀룰로오스계 섬유제품들에 대하여 마 제품과 유사한 효과를 낼 수 있는 다양한 의마가공법이 개발되어왔다[1,2]. (중략)

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.141-158
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• 2016

The objective of this study is to examine the type and characteristics of hat, and also to analyze the formative characteristics of hats shown in $Pr{\hat{e}}t-{\grave{a}}$-porter Collection. The literature review focused on the relevant technical books and preceding researches while the case study targeted 1,561 photos of hats shown in the 'Donga TV Collection'. The research range was from the S/S season of 2012 to the F/W season of 2015/16. The results of this study are as follows. 1. A hat is composed of crown and brim. In the results of classifying hats based on it, there were 572 crown-type hats, 533 hat-type, 219 cap-type, 156 irregular-type, and 81 brim-type in the order. 2. For the crown-type hats, they were mainly like cylindrical-type, bell-type, dome-type, and circle-type, using colors like black, beige, brown, red, mustard, and grey, and materials like wool, fur, velvet, straw, and metal while they were decorated with bead or lace. 3. For the hat-type hats, they were mainly like bell-type, ladder-type, and hemisphere-type, using colors like peach, white, gold, brown, and khaki, and materials like silk, cotton, straw, and wool while they were decorated with feather and ribbon. 4. For the cap-type hats, they were mainly like hemisphere-type, using colors like white, black, khaki, mustard, and purple, and materials like fur, leather, and wool while they were decorated with wappen and chain. 5. For the irregular-type hats, they were mainly like sandglass-type, box-type, animal-type, trumpet-type, and bell-type, using colors like purple, orange, pink, yellow, and sky-blue, and materials like metal, feather, mesh, plastic, straw, and linen while they were decorated with ribbon, net, bell, and flower. 6. For the brim-type visor, they were mainly like square-type, using colors like transparent, yellow, and black, and materials like plastic, cotton, leather, and metal.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.48-51
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• 2003

Poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) obtained by the saponification of poly(vinyl ester) like poly(vinyl acetate) or poly(vinyl pivalate) is a linen. semicrystalline polymer, which have been widely used as fibers for clothes and industries, films, membranes, medicines for drug delivery system, and cancer cell-killing embolic materials[1-3]. PVA fibers and films have high tensile and compressive strengths, high tensile modulus, and good abrasion resistance due to its highest crystalline lattice modulus. (omitted)