• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.1-20
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• 2010

This thesis is about "manggon" that holds down man's top knot hair and its accessaries "pungjam", "kwanja". manggon was seen first time in the mural of Donwhang kae won chon bo during T'ang period (713-756). The "Tu Aek Ra" manggon shown in this mural would be the origin and beginning of maggon's usage. Also the "Sha" that was placed on top of the hair for decoration purpose is believed to be a former form of "manggon" Before the short hair cut was enforced, wearing the "kwan"(head gear) was considered as an impotant etiguette. Thus the head gear was treasured and the manggon which was the most essential piece to cover down the hair before to put on the head gear was regarded as the most important piece. However, since the manggon was tied very tightly around the forehead, manggon caused some sickness. From my private collections of man's head gears and ornament, 121 items were selected and used for analysis and the followings were found: 1. Pungjam was divided into 8 categories according to its shape and a research was made on its unique structural characteristic on each categories. 2. Kwanja's material and design that were used are all in accordance to the historical recordings.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.99-116
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• 2008

This study reviewed pertinent literature and examined relics of manggon(a headband worn to hold a man's topknot hair in place), donggot(a topknot pin), and chigwan(a topknot cover). Before the modernized short hair style, wearing a gat was an important custom. Therefore, manggon, which was used to hold a man's hair in place under the gat, was considered an essential part of the man's official dress code. Donggot is a pin that held the topknot hair in place. It was a must have for a married man, like the binyeo, a lod-like hairpin, for a married woman. Unlike gwanja, it had nothing to do with official rank, but materials were of a variety of materials, including jade and gold. The structure of the donggot was studied in three parts-head, neck and body. Major forms for the head include the mushroom, bean and ball. Bullet and half-cut bullet forms were also found. Forms for the neck include straight-neck and curved-neck. A neck with a belt around a double chin was also found. Forms for the body include the tetrahedron, octahedron and cylinder. The most popular form for silver and white bronze donggot heads was the mushroom, followed by bean and pile forms. Chigwan is also called chipogwan, chichoal, choalgyesogwan, noingwan and sangtugwan. In poetry it was called chichoal, and it used to be called taegogwan in the past as well. Chigwan was so small that it managed to hold a topknot. According to confucian custom in the Joseon period, by wearing chigwan, men didn't display their bare topknot even when they didn't dress up. When they went out, they wore another official hat over the chigwan.