• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.173-186
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to examine the relationship between the weight of seasonal garments worn by Korean women in their daily lives and thermal insulation. We selected a total of 121 garments(13 kinds of Under garments, 51 Upper garments, 32 Lower garments, 15 Headgear, 10 Gloves Footgear) based on our previous survey using questionnaire and interview. Thermal insulation of single garment was measured with a thermal manikin. Also we measured garment weight, covering area, thickness, air permeability on the each garment(chamber air temperature: $21.5{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$, humidity: $50{\pm}5%R.H.$ air speed: 0.15m/s). The results are as follow: The very strong positive correlation(r=0.905, p<.01) was recognized between the weight of single garment and thermal insulation. The regression equation of thermal insulation can be represented as follows: Thermal Insulation(clo)=$0.03+0.0004{\times}Garment$ Weight(g)($r^2$=0.820, SEE =0.059). There are significant differences in the thermal insulation and garment weight by season and garment type(p<.05). The each garment category's thermal insulation and garment weight has as follows: Under garment(0.06clo, 89g), Blouse Shirt T-shirt(0.13clo, 200g), Cardigan Sweater Vest(0.14clo, 287g), Coat Jacket Jumper(0.41clo, 890g), Skirt(0.16clo, 276g), Trousers(0.20clo, 438g), Headgear(0.03clo, 102g), Gloves Footgear(0.03clo, 33g).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.8
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• pp.1110-1118
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• 1999

This study was to examine the effects of garment types on thermal insulation using a thermal manikin. cotton polyester wool silk and rayon were selected as outer wears like a blouse a skirt slacks and one-piece for this study Acetate was chosen as a lining. Brief and upper innerwear with long sleeves(cotton) were also chosen as the innerwear. The results were as follows: 1. The thermal insulation of the garment of single layer was in proportion to the covering area of garment in all types of clothing. 2. On adding the innerwear or the lining or both the thermal insulation of the each garment of single layer were showed a different trends by garment types. The thermal manikin insulations of one-piece dress adding the innerwear was higher than those of blouse-skirt suits. The thermal insulation of one-piece dress adding the innerwear and lining was lower than those of blouse-skirt suits. 3. The increasing rates of thermal insulation of multi-layered garments had different value by garment types but garment made of rayon and silk were showed very high increasing rates of thermal insulation. 4. The increasing rates of the thermal insulation of one-piece dress added the lining the innerwear or both except polyester showed the highest value and then blouse-slacks suits' turn came ound Blouse-skirt suits had the lowest the increasing rates of thermal insualition value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.723-740
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• 2022

This study aimed to develop an Arduino-based garment pressure device (APD) on the basis of using Single-Tact sensor by suggesting the reliable clothing pressure range and coefficient of selected sensors through the APD calibration process. Once the APD was validated, the pressure of the experimental men's lower body compression wears was measured using the APD and was compared to the pressure measured using the existing air-pack type pressure meter. The subjects were one mannequin and eight men in their 20's, and the trial compression wears were calf sleeves and pants. Clothing pressures were measured in hip, mid-thigh, calf, and ankle. In terms of the 99% confidence level, the experimental clothing pressure measured at the designated measuring points using the APD was considered identical to the one measured using an existing clothing pressure meter. Therefore, on the basis of the experiment results, this study demonstrated that the APD is as reliable as the existing clothing pressure meter within the pressure ranges of 0.54-16.79 kPa and 0.18-25.47 kPa as provided by the SingleTact sensor supplier's data on the basis of using an external ADC (Analog to Digital Converter) module.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.660-668
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to analyze the thermal characteristics of garments marketed for Korean males and to investigate the influence of each garment on ensemble, by measuring their insulation values(clo) using thermal manikins. The results are as follows. The total insulations(clo) of ensembles for S/S seasons are between 1.46 and 2.6 clo, with the mean of 2.12 clo. The insulation in the still air condition is 1.23 clo, which means a decrease of 42% compared to the total insulation of all the component garments. The insulation of ensembles for S/S seasons in the dynamic air condition decreased by 46.8%, compared to the still air condition. The total insulation(clo) of ensembles for F/W seasons is between 3.84 and 7.36 clo with the mean of 4.74 clo. The insulation in the still air condition is 2.26 clo, which means a decrease of 53.6% compared to the total insulation of all the component garments. The insulation of ensembles for F/W seasons in the dynamic air condition decreased by 36.2%, compared to the still air condition. As the clo value of each component garment gets higher, the insulation of ensembles gets higher. Especially, the insulation of ensembles was more influenced by outer wear than inner wear. The insulation of ensembles could be predicted by the insulation of outerwear better.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1812-1823
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• 2010

The modifiable design of clothes is significant in that a single garment can be presented in various ways and can be modified by user adjustments as well different kinds of figurative beauty can be expressed through the garment. This study departmentalized the case of knitwear in the modifiable design of clothes to propose a possibility of a variable knit fashion that makes the most of the knit characteristics. This study investigated precedent research, arranged general terms, created fundamental notions, found the background of the advent, and located specific characters in the modifiable design as well as arranged a concept, type, structure, and traits for the knit. The following results were obtained through this study. First, the modifiable design of the clothes can express the change of the silhouette and the change of the item itself or a change in the item according to the change in the mode of wearing, manipulation, and technology. Second, the results show that modifiable knit designs by open & close are mostly used according to manipulation and have no existence in this study according to the technology. Third, there was a noticeable appearance of a modifiable knit design from 2002 to 2004. However, it was increased again in 2009 after a steady decrease in 2005 and 2008. Finally, it can create effects in several dresses in the visual aspect and functional aspect.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2015

This study aims to compare the ease of men's single-pleated pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The researchers selected five(four educational materials and one industrial pattern) slim-fit single-pleated pants which is the current fashion trend in menswear. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing, opacity, and clothing pressure. The results showed that D pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while C pants had the least ease. The E pants had the greatest ease on the hip circumference, then B pants and C pants showed less ease. Also, the E pants had the longest on the pants length, then D pants showed the shortest. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, B, E, and C pants, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. From the results, we can understand that each of the 5 single-pleated pants patterns has different ease amount and silhouette.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.665-680
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to develop the construction process of orthopedic compression garments (OCG) for balancing of the left and right lumbar muscle power and strength to prevent low back pain. One male subject having low back pain was involved for investigating of the lumbar muscle power. EMG (Telemyo DTS2, Noraxon, U.S.A) was measured with/ without 3 types of waist assistant belt around the waist area of the subject. Based on the electromyogram value of left and right body, OCG were constructed as follows. Firstly, stretchable t-shirts type with supportive waist belt was selected for the convenience of wearing and laundering the OCG. The design lines of the front and back waist parts were created depending on the anatomy of the torso. Secondly, 3D pattern was developed using 3D Clo, RapidForm XOR, 2C-AN, and Yuka CAD program to increase the fit of the OCG. Finally, stretchable power-net was layered as linings in two ways, a single lining and double layered linings, and evaluated measuring lumbar muscle EMG by five subjects with low back pain. As the results, they were effective to balance the left and right lumbar muscle power and strength. Also the OCG with the double layered power-net lining was superior to the one layered lining in terms of fit and comfort.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.485-500
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the formal wear for social activity of dwarf. Second investigation for choices of designs based upon data from the first questionnaire investigation, led us to make proposals for design, pattern production, garment-cutting and dressmaking. The effect of wearing the made-up garments was carefully evaluated in order to establish principles for the development of clothes for dwarf. Conclusion is as follow. Dwarf felt uneasy in conventional street dress. When buying clothes their most important criteria was design wanted clothes that would help them to look taller. Analysis of design preference to complement perceived physical weak points revealed: 'a pink ensemble' comprising of a high-waist, one-piece dress, and a black slacks suit comprising of a striped, single-breasted, tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse. It was found that a bolero jacket and a high-waist, ankle-length, one-piece dress helped create an optical illusion of increased height, for both the wearer and an observer. A pastel ton-pink, one-piece also created this effect on small bodily types, as well as offering a silky, mellow attractiveness. A suit of a striped, single-breasted tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse, created the two fold illusion of disguising hip imbalance with the length of the jacket and drawing an onlooker\`s gaze to the wearer\`s face through the tailored collar, they also looked taller due to the stripes.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.79-91
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• 2015

Creativity is an ever-increasing research area related to fashion design, namely the documentation and dissemination of creative scholarship. The purpose of this project is to apply creative bridge or creative leap theory to the development of an existing designer's garment collection using the creative design process of an architect. A single case study design was used to investigate the phenomenon of design process creative leap using a direct observation. Results indicate the difficult challenge of producing new and individualized silhouettes for the marketability of clothing, it is apparent that new methods of fostering creativity in designers through non-traditional approaches would benefit the education of apparel designers. Through targeted design practice, educators and practitioners can apply the principles of scientific inquiry into design processes to solve a problem, address a challenge, or create based on personal inspirations.