• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.231-250
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• 2014

This study considers types of design expression and examines aesthetic characteristics by analyzing images shown on clothes worn by Korean First Ladies. This study is to accumulate a fundamental database for the effective style coordination for images of First Ladies and future directions of clothing design. The types of design expression on the clothes of Korean First Ladies are as follows. First, in terms of silhouette, H line and A line is generally represented on the silhouette of clothes; in addition, the H line is highly expressed on the silhouette. The keyword of images by design types are generally feminine, elegant on the silhouette of First Ladies' clothing, and represented a progressively more modernized image on the silhouette. Second, in terms of color, it is expressed diverse images on the color of First Ladies' clothing, and exceptionally the tendency of elegant image is highly charged on the color of clothes. This sort of tendency is influenced by the preferences of First Ladies; subsequently, most First Ladies wear their clothes with a high brightness and chroma. Third, in terms of materials, the image of elegant and simple is highly expressed through First Ladies' clothes and it is caused by choosing the clothes of a plain texture rather than a visible and fancy one. The aesthetic characteristics based on an analysis of the types of design expression on the clothes of Korean First Ladies are as follows. First, 'femininity' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed by A line silhouette of a feminine curve and decorative effects. Second, 'simplicity' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed on the H line silhouette of a straight figure or through the solid colors of high chroma. Third, 'elegance' on First Ladies' clothes is represented on the silhouette of a restrained curve, long skirt hemlines, and woolen fabric with a neat, warm and soft coordination of colors. Forth, 'traditionality' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed through the application of materials and colors that influence culture, traditions, and detailed decorativeness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.100-112
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• 2005

Although Korean first ladies are not very big in changes in their hair style, American first ladies have greatly influenced clothing as well as hair style, exercising their influence over the apparel industry and fashion. Historically, American first ladies' fashion tastes have been on the center of attention and taken the lead in fashion. Although Korea first ladies' hair style are not very new or sensible enough to lead the fashion among the public, they have a sense of fashion and some influence on women of the upper classes. Beauty artists creating first lady hair style are representative of the times and have great value to the research. However, this study will not concentrate on their research. This study will analyze Korea first ladies' hair style, examine hair design and hair technique in fashion in those days. This study intends to provide important materials for Korean beauty history that has not been established by systematically arranging fashion style in the times analyzed through first ladies' hair style. Also, this study aims at researching in the aspect of beauty aesthetic concept through analyzing Korea first ladies' hair style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.137-156
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze types of roles and fashion of the Chinese first ladies and provide basic data for fashion image-making of first ladies. As for the research methods, the concepts, role types, and fashion of the first ladies were considered by referring to the precedent studies and relevant literature. Then, the fashion images according to role types were analyzed by collecting the photos of Chinese first ladies from the period of the Republic of China until today. The results were as follows: First, when the roles of Chinese first ladies were categorized based on ceremonial, political, and policy roles, Zhuo Lin and Wang Yeping played a ceremonial role; Wang Guangmei, Liu Yongqing, and Peng Liyuan played a political role; and Soong Qingling, Soong Mayling, and Jiang Qing played a policy role while they were first ladies. While the first ladies of the Republic of China often wore classic Chinese styles like traditional qipao as well as western clothes which contained a western influence, the first ladies of the People's Republic of China wore more colorful clothes and more accessories in the later period, and also often wore clothes that combined traditional and western elements. Second, first ladies who played a ceremonial role showed mannish and classic images; those who played a political role showed elegant, classic, and diverse images according to T.P.O; and those who played a policy role showed feminine, modern, and mannish images. Fashion images of the first ladies varied according to the level of political involvement, the sociocultural background of China at that time, and their personality and preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.1000-1013
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• 2012

This study analyzes public images, role types, and fashion images of Korean First Ladies in modern times to find a correlation of a standard through an analysis of literature reviews. The conclusion of the study is as follows. First, in terms of official functions in formal situations, First Ladies represent a type of customary presidential protocol and offer appealing neat images through a moderate style and simple mode. In other situations, such as non-formal times, they show duty-based roles in regards to the lady of the house as well as the companion of the president that are represent soft and comfortable images through a feminine style and graceful mode. Second, it reflects their tastes and images in the silhouette and colors of Western style clothing through the personal roles and activities of the First Lady. Third, the Korean First Ladies tend to prefer the feminine image of housewife-based assistant that shows that they prefer clothes with a regular repetition and stabilized pattern such as dots and checkered patterns. Fourth, as compared to a previous period, they create a style for bright images and dainty feelings that use a variety of colors and light fabrics that represent many aspects of political assistance with active support.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.95-106
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• 2012

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (July 28, 1929 - May 19, 1994) was served as First Lady of the United States in the early 1960s. Her fashion styles are analyzed into the elements of designs, and the features of Jackie look are assorted. A variety of sources about women's suits for the 21st century are suggested in the research. Jackie's taste in fashion, her fashion image are searched. In addition, after Jackie, other nine fashionable First Ladies' evening dresses are compared to Jackie's dresses so as to see if there are similarities between their styles. Based on this data, the typical First Lady's look is classifiable. The purpose of this study is to furnish the industry with basic information which helps create high value fashion design. Most of Jackie's evening dresses had the straight - sheath silhouettes, and the round or bateau necklines without collars. Pale tones like white predominated in her dresses, and patternless colorful silk, silky and bright texture of cloth was used for the dresses. Elegance and classic represented her image. Design features of Jackie look are the straight silhouette, the simple line excluded adornments, and the fine quality of cloth. There has been little change in other nine First Ladies' evening dresses since Jackie. They weren't influenced by the vogue at that time, but they kept the style the way Jackie did. Jackie style is the beginning of the typical first lady look, that is.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.55-71
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• 2011

Court ladies' tasks were largely divided into two. First, if there is a royal family event, such as the royal family's wedding or feast, they followed the rules and regulations of work division that was defined in "Gyeonggukdaejeon". Secondly, during normal days, they were divided into Jimil (至密), Chimbang (針房), Subang (繡房), Sesugan (洗手間), Saenggwabang (生果房), Naesojubang (內燒廚房), and Oesojubang (外燒廚房) and took charge of female work that was needed daily at the palace including serving, cooking, laundry, needlework, embroidery, cleaning, and nurturing. This organization was operated by different palaces such as the daejeon(king's palace), daebijeon(queen dowager's palace), junggungjeon(queen's palace), or sejagung(prince's palace). Court ladies were selected among female slaves of the government office or naesusa(a ministry of royal household properties). Although commoners were forbidden to be selected, they sometimes became court ladies voluntarily for financial reasons or because of the will of their parents. Court ladies had different appearances according to the division they belonged to. The court girls of Jimil, Chimbang, and Subang wore saeangmeori while court girls from other places had braided hairstyles. At Jimil, they wore all different kinds of chima(skirt) and jeogori(jacket). Usually, court ladies wore navy chima, jade jeogori, green gyeonmagi(top jacket) with the uyeomeori hairstyle. When working in the evening, they wore pink jeogori or yellow-green jeogori, navy chima with the jojimmeori hairstyle for easiness to stay up all night and work. Navy chima was worn by court ladies. If there was a royal family event upper court ladies wore uyeomi, black or green wonsam, and stewards wore garima and dangui.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.225-235
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• 2004

As a conclusion, it is considered that the 'Karaginumo shozoku' is not such a reformed version of the Chofuku or Jinjyofuku of Nara period as said in the accepted theory, but a further development of the 'Uchiki' worn at home by the aristocrat ladies since the first half of $10^{th}$ century. It is further presumed that the ladies probably did not wear the homewear 'Hitoe no uchiki' together with one Uchiki of wadded clothes as an over coat, but they put on multi layers of 'Uchiki' with no wadded silk cotton from their viewpoint on the beauty of the combination of colors. This could have made their Hakama larger.In the section of Jinjyofuku of the above mentioned 'Seikyuki', Karaginu, Mo and Hire are specified as the essential wears for their daily service. It is consequently said that the aristocratic ladies at home wore only 'Uchiki', while the female service officers put such wears as Uchiki, Karaginu, Mo and Hire when they came to serve the aristocratic ladies at home.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.455-467
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.

• Clinical and Experimental Reproductive Medicine
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.157-163
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• 2016

Objective: The decision to use in vitro fertilization (IVF), intracytoplasmic sperm injection (ICSI), or split insemination (IVF-ICSI) in the first cycle is based on the number of motile sperm. Hence, total fertilization failure (TFF) often occurs during IVF cycles, despite normozoospermia. To investigate whether the cumulative motile swim-up spermatozoa percentage at 22 hours post-insemination (MSPPI) is an indicator for ICSI, we analyzed TFF, fertilization, blastocyst development, chemical pregnancy, clinical pregnancy, and live birth rates. Methods: This prospective study was performed using data obtained from 260 IVF cycles. At 22 hours after insemination, the remaining swim-up spermatozoa were observed and divided into six groups according to MSPPI (<10%, 10% to <30%, 30% to <50%, 50% to <70%, 70% to <90%, and 90% to 100%). Results: Regardless of the ejaculated motile sperm concentration ($0.6-280{\times}10^6/mL$ motile spermatozoa), the incidence of TFF significantly increased when MSPPI was <10%, and the fertilization rate significantly decreased when MSPPI was <30%. We found that cumulative MSPPI correlated with the cumulative fertilization rate (Spearman correlation, 0.508, p<0.001). Regarding embryo development, we observed no significant differences in the rates of blastocyst development, chemical pregnancy, clinical pregnancy, or live birth among all groups. Conclusion: Our findings suggest that MSPPI is a viable indicator for split IVF-ICSI and ICSI. Taken together, by employing the MSPPI test in advance before IVF, ICSI, or split IVF-ICSI cycles, unnecessary split IVF-ICSI and ICSI may be avoided.