• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.244-254
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• 2013

In this study, a method has been developed for estimating the change of nearshore random waves in response to sea-level rise, by extending the method proposed for regular waves by Townend in 1994. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height for random waves are presented as functions of relative change in water depth. The changes in wavelength and refraction coefficient are calculated by using the significant wave period and principal wave direction in the regular-wave formulas. On the other hand, the changes in shoaling coefficient and wave height are calculated by using the formulas proposed for shoaling and transformation of random waves in the nearshore area including surf zone. The results are proposed in the form of both formulas and graphs. In particular, the relative change in wave height is compared with the result for regular waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.128-133
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• 1990

An equation is presented to calculate wave height due to shoaling, refraction and bottom friction. The equation in an integral form is evaluated by two different methods： A numerical method and an analytical method based on approximation. Both methods are used to calculate wave height and show very good agreement between their results. As shown in the figure of wave height variation vs. relative water depth, an increase of incident angle leads to a decrease in wave height. For the case of normal incident wave, the present equation can be reduced, under some assumptions, to the existing equation of Bretschneider and Reid (1954).

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2005.05b
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• pp.532-537
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• 2005

The techniques of internally generating waves on a curve in a rectangular grid system are developed using the line source method. Numerical experiments are conducted using the extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. (1997). For five different types of wave generation layout, numerical experiments are conducted in the cases of the propagation of waves on a flat bottom, and the refraction and shoaling of waves on a plane slope. The fifth type of wave generation, which consists of two parallel lines connected to a semicircle, shows the best solutions especially when the grid size is small enough.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper presents the techniques developed using the line source method to internally generate waves on an arc in a rectangular grid system. For five different types of wave generation layouts, quantitative experiments were conducted under the following conditions: the propagation of waves on a flat bottom, the refraction and shoaling of waves on a planar slope, and the diffraction of waves to a semi-infinite breakwater. Numerical experiments were conducted using the extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. (1997). The fifth type of wave generation layout, consisting of two parallel lines connected to a semicircle, showed the best solutions, especially for a small grid size.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 2010

The calmness inside a harbor plays an important role in the appropriate disposition of harbor structures. However, it is not easy to acquire accurate computational results because these are affected by many factors concerned with wave transformation. Recently, numerical model tests, which are quicker and more economical than hydraulic model experiments, were carried out for the purpose of analyzing wave height distributions in harbors. This paper presents a numerical model that is able to calculate wave heights inside a harbor. It is based on a time-dependent mild slope involving wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling effect, and reflection. In particular, arbitrary reflectivity is used at the boundary in order to simulate the real harbor reflection condition. The proposed numerical model is applied to Samcheon new-harbor in order to investigate harbor calmness.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.157-164
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• 2003

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.29 no.3 s.99
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• pp.257-262
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• 2005

Environmental problems and safety problems in coastal area is one of the most important factors for designing coastal structures and maintaining facilities in coastal zone. And thus study on Wave transformation around coastal area is very important to develope a new port or on industrial area. Delft 3D-WAVE is applied to Ulsan new port area and the culculated results are analysed and compared with measured data Delft 3D-wave module is based on SWAN model which considers wave shoaling and refraction for irregular wave. This module also covers wind effect, bottom friction. white-capping and wave breaking effect. The results of this study show a good agreement with measured data and thus Delft 3D-WAVE module can be applied to simulate irregular wave transformation in coastal area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.15-21
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• 1989

A simple numerical refraction model is presented. The model takes into account refraction, shoaling and bottom dissipation. Eikonal equation and equation of energy conservation are discretized by an explicit finite-difference method, which provides wave angle and height at each grid point, respectively. Applications of the model were made to simple geometries as well as complex geometries, and some advantages on computing time and stability have been observed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.10-15
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• 2012

Wave characteristics in the presence of energy damping are investigated using the linear shallow water equations. To get the phase and energy velocities, geometric optics approach is used and then these values are validated through numerical experiments. Energy damping affects wave height, phase and energy velocities which result in wave transformation. When the complex wavenumber is used by the Eulerian approach, it is found that the phase velocity decreases as the damping increases while the energy velocity increases showing higher values than the phase velocity. When the complex angular frequency is used by the Lagrangian approach, the energy-damping wave group is found to propagate in the energy velocity. The energy velocity is found to affect shoaling and refraction coefficient which is verified through numerical experiments for waves on a plane slope.

• Water for future
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.39-48
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• 1993

Since major reason of disaster in coastal area is wave action, prediction of wave deformation is one of the most important problems to ocean engineers. Wave deformations are due to physical factors such as shoaling effect, reflection, diffraction, refraction, scattering and radiation etc. Recently, numerical models are widely utilized to calculate wave deformation. In this study, the mild slope equation was used in calculatin gwave deformation which considers diffraction and refraction. In order to slove the governing equation, finite element method is introduced. Even though this method has some difficulties, it is proved to predict the wave deformation accurately even in complicated boundary conditions. To verify the validity of the numerical calculation, experiments were carried out in a model harbour of rectangular shape which has mild slope bottom. The results by F.E.M. are compared with those of both Lee's method and the experiment. The results of these three methods show reasonable agreement.