• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.36-46
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• 2017

Most of the studies on the hydraulic characteristics of wave-current interaction have used 2-D hydraulic experiments or 2-D numerical simulations. However, it is difficult to understand the wave-current interaction found in actual estuaries using these. Therefore, a numerical water tank was constructed in this study to perform simulations involving a 3-D river mouth. The result showed a change in the water surface at the river mouth from the wave-current interaction. With an increase in the ratio ($V_c/C_i$) between the river current and wave celerity, the wave height and mean water level of the river increased at the wave and current meeting point. A higher $V_c/C_i$ caused a stronger wave-current interaction and increased the turbulence kinetic energy. Thus, the wave height attenuation became larger by the wave-current interaction with a higher $V_c/C_i$. In addition, it was possible to understand the flow characteristics in the vicinity of the river mouth as a result of the wave-current interaction using the mean flow and mean time-averaged velocity at the mid-cross section of river.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.26-33
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• 1992

Physical experiments were conducted to investigate the suspension properties of silty mud in combined wave-current flow. Suspension mass when there was opposing current was much higher than that when there was following current. It is due to the fact which strong turbulent flow in the bottom is developed in the opposing current but oscillatory flow effect decreases in the following current. Critical bed shear stress for suspension of silty mud in combined wave-current flow was deduced to be $\tau$$_{c}$～0.045 N/$m^2$. Formulas expressing the relation with initial suspension rate with bed shear stress, and the relation between the former and measured significant wave height were deduced. The relationship of initial suspension rate with bed shear stress was significantly scattered, but the relationship with measured significant wave height was reasonably good. When there is wave only, vertical diffusion coefficients of sediment were calculated from the vertical concentration gradients of suspended sediment when the concentration of suspended sediment approached to nearly equilibrium state. The diffusion coefficient increased exponentially with height from the bottom in the lower half of the flow depth but were nearly constant in the upper half of the flow depth.h.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.166-179
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• 2018

This study aims at numerically investigating the water-surface characteristics such as wave height distribution depending on the current direction around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters in wave-current coexisting field which has not been considered in detail so far. In addition, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy, which act as the main external forces of formation of salient, are also examined. For numerical analysis, olaFlow which is open source code of CFD was used and the numerical tests included different types of target waves, both regular waves and irregular waves. Numerical results indicated that wave height variation with wave following or opposing a current behind the submerged breakwater is closely related to turbulent kinetic energy. Furthermore, it was found that weaker longshore currents are formed under wave-current coexisting field compared to the non-current conditions, and transport flow is attenuated. As a result, it was possible to understand the influence of current existence and direction (following and opposing) on the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Water Engineering Research
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.75-84
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• 2002

An Euler-Lagrange two-phase flow model is presented fur simulation sheet-flow transport under wave and current. The flow is computed by solving the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation in conjunction with the k-$\varepsilon$ turbulence model for turbulence closure. The sediment transport is introduced as a motion of granular media under the action of unsteady flow from the Lagragian point of view. In other word, motion of every single particle is numerically traced with Movable Bed Simulator (MBS) code based on the Distinct Element Method (DEM), in which the frequent interparticle collision of the moving particles during the sheet-flow transport is sophisticatedly taken into account. The particle diameter effect on time-dependent developing process of sheet-flow transport is investigated, by using three different diameter sizes of sediment. The influence of an imposed current on oscillatory sheet-flow transport is also investigated. It is concluded that the sediment transport rate increases due to the relaxation process related to the time-lag between flow velocity and sediment motion.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.101-115
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• 2007

The pound net fishery is very important one in Korean coastal fishery and it need to grasp the characteristics of the net affected by many factors. It is considered that the structure and the shape of the pound net can be changed by the direction and speed of current, wave height, depth and conditions of sea bed. However, most of all, the speed of current and wave height influence more upon the pound net than any other factors to deform and flutter. In this study, author carried out the experiments with a model of double one-side pound net made by the similarity law as 1:100 scales at a real experimental area, and additionally the model net experiments were conducted in the circulating water channel in Pukyong National University. The author analyzed the data of transformation of shape and tension of the model pound net to recognize the characteristics of the current and wave acting on it. Regardless of the direction of flow affecting on the fish court net or bag net, the deformed angle and depth to the side panel and bottom of box nets becomes bigger as the wave gets higher and the period of wave is faster. The tension in both upward or downward tends to be changed by the speed of wave. Those value of changes occurred similarly in either fish court net or bag net. Generally, when bag net is located at upward of flow, the value of tension was bigger 10% than any other location or nets. Regardless of the setting direction, the tension of the pound net is increased in proportion to flow speed, wave height and period of wave, and it becomes bigger about 15-30% at upward to flow than downward. Where the flow is upward in the court net, the tension in the wave increased to 37% compared to the one in the flow only in the condition of flow of 0.1-0.3m/s. Where the flow is upward in the bag net, the tension in the wave increased to 52% in the flow of 0.1m/s, and the tension increased to 48% in the flow of 0.2-0.3m/s.

• Journal of Wetlands Research
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.107-115
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• 2021

In order to analyze wave propagation, tidal current, and sediment transport in the vicinity of the Gaeya open channel, it was classified into before(CASE1W) and after(CASE2W) installation of various artificial structures, and the calculation results for CASE1W and CASE2W were compared. For wave propagation, the results of incident and reflected waves were derived using the SWAN numerical model, and the tidal current velocity results were derived using the FLOW2DH numerical model for tidal current. The results of the SWAN numerical model and the FLOW2DH numerical model became the input conditions for the SEDTRAN numerical model that predicts sediment transport, and the maximum bed shear stress and suspended sediment concentration distribution near the Gaeya open channel were calculated through the SEDTRAN numerical model. As a result of the calculation of the SWAN numerical model, the wave height of CASE2W was increased by 40~50 % compared to CASE1W because the incident wave was diffracted and superimposed and the reflected wave was generated by about 7 km long northen jetty. As a result of the calculation of the FLOW2DH numerical model, According to the northen breakwater, the northen jetty and Geumrando, CASE2W was calculated 10~30 % faster than CASE1W in the tidal current of the Gaeya open channel. As a result of the calculation of the SEDTRAN numerical model, the section where the maximum bed shear stress is 1.0 N/m² or more and the suspended concentration is 80mg/L or more was widely distributed in the Gaeya open channel from the marine environment by the complex wave field(incident wave, reflected wave and tidal wave) and the installation of various artificial structures. it is believed that a sedimentation phenomenon occurred in the Gaeya open channel.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2000.04a
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• pp.75-81
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• 2000

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develop as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. This wave-current model was applied to the Kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.6-10
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• 2001

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develope as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. It starts from Berkhoff's(1972) mild slope equation and is transformed to time-dependent hyperbolic type equation by using variational principal. Finally the governing equation is shown as a parabolic type equation by splitting method. This wave-current model was applied to the kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• Korean Journal of Hydrosciences
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• v.1
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• pp.73-97
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• 1990

A literature review is made on the numerical models of wave-induced currents. The major processes of the flow system are wave breaking, bottom friction of combined wave-current flow and mixing processes primarily caused by wave breaking as well as the flow fields of waves and currents themselves. The survey is given to each item with great emphasis on numerical implication as well as physical mechanism. As noted is the importance in recent investigations, a brief treatment is also given on the currents driven by random or spectral waves.