• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.1031-1040
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• 1997

This study was done to analyze the body surface developments of armhole area. The major conclusions of this study are: 1. The body surface developments showed the characteristics of expansion and contraction of body at armhole area. By arm movements, front armhole lines on the body surface developments of upper arm were slow going, but back armhole lines were full and round. As a whole, armhole line of the back torso was swollen outside especially at backarmpit point area, it seemed like a line of raglan sleeve. 2. Regression Analysis was carried out to adapt armhole line on the upper arm and upper body to bodice and sleeve pattern, following the axillary circumference line and chest breadth line changed to the basic pattern form. As the result, armhole lines of 90$^{\circ}$ and 135-180$^{\circ}$ movements deviated from those of standard posture. U-type, clear armhole curve of standard posture turned to V-type, slanting line by arm movements.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권7호
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• pp.892-900
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• 1998

This study was done to analyze the surface development of upper arm for planning sleeve armhole line. The major conclusions of this study are: 1. The surface development by arm movements made the expansion and contraction of upper arm surface changes easily visible. Armhole lines of 90$^{\circ}$and 135$^{\circ}$~180$^{\circ}$movements deviated from those of standard posture. 2. According to regression analysis, armhole lines on the upper arm were adapted to sleeve patten, following the axillary circumference line changed to biceps line. Sleeve cap length ranged from armhole/4+2.5cm to armhole/4$\pm$0.5cm. 3. Compared to Rim's pattern method, ascending and descending amounts of armhole lines were represented as fixed values.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.665-674
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to develop a grading increment at armhole area by apparel CAD(Computer Aided Design) system. In developing a grading increment at armhole area, we analyzed ease values of armhole area in bodice and sleeve by manual drafting patterns of five sizes. We suggested grading increments applied Pythagorean theorem to development the grading increment of the armhole of sleeve. The results and discussions of this study were as follows: 1. In drafting each size, the ease values were not identical. It was difficult to draft perfectly the same armhole line shape between sizes. 2. According to our developed grading increments applied Pythagorean theorem, the ease values were identical between sizes and difference of the armhole length between sizes was also identical. 3. The grading formulas were made out for apparel CAD system. Once grading increment or formula is set in the computer, it can be easily altered to various clothing items at any time. The efficiency of grading work will be also improved and grading time will be reduced.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.183-196
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• 2015

This study aims to develop sleeve pattern of tailored jacket which shows seamlessly beauty of females in their twenties who have relatively smaller change of body compared people of other ages and has outstanding functional operation. So we selected a pattern of manufacturer who received highest score after evaluating wearing condition of three types of jacket in the industry, whose targets are career women in their twenties and then tested its appearance and functional operation of 6 experimental jackets with armhole depth of B/4 and B/4-1(cm) along with sleeve cap height of A.H/3, A.H/3+1, A.H/3+2. As a result, the pattern which has good result of external appearance evaluation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+2 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+1. The pattern of good result for movement adaptation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3. So we could find that the larger is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on adaptability of jacket it makes and that the smaller is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on movement adaptability of jacket it makes. It has been proved that armhole depth of tailored jacket of females in their twenties doesn't affect significantly on its appearance when designing it but it makes good influence on movement adaptability when experimental clothing has armhole depth of B/4-1and that sleeve cap height of A.H/3 that is 1cm shorter than A.H/3+1 which is used in industry makes good influence on appearance and functional operation.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.229-234
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• 2002

An investigation was made of the angle of bias on the lower part of the armhole line of the back bodice and that on the lower part of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights, and then it was made of the lock stitch seam strength and elongation on the matching angles, the stitch density (26 stitches/3cm, 19 stitches/3cm, 14 stitches/3cm, and the samples (a cotton fabric and two kinds of cotton mixed polyester fabric). The matching angles of the machine-sewed samples are $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$, $30^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$, $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ and $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ by the analysis of the angles of bias on the lower part of the armhole seam. In view of the results of the seam strength and elongation, the reasonable sewing condition of the lower part of the armhole seam was 19 stitches/3cm.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.930-942
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• 1996

This study was done to provide the characteristics of body surface changes at armhole area. Experiments were carried out at upper arm and upper body inchuding 67 items, 74 segments by the stanard posture and arm movements. The subjects were 15 females of twenty aged. The major conclusions of this study are; 1. On the circumference items of upper arm, armhole circumference was decreased by all arm movement, especially high contracted on front armhole line. The most contracted segments of armhole circumference were from the shonlder point to front and back interscye breadth point. Axillary circumference was increased 5 cm to the utmost, so the function of sleeve pattern would be decided by axillary circumference. 2. The lengths of upper arm were decreased near center line, sleeve cap length was contracted 3∼4 cm. Posterior armpit point area was increased both length and breadth. According to the rates of expansion and contraction, the diagram of expansion and contraction of upper arm was suggested. 3. On upper body, back side chest breadth was increased exceedingly and shoulder length was decreased most. It was apparent that surface changes of upper body were greatly larger as far away from center front and center back line. The rates of expansion and contraction of upper body were also represented as a diagram of surface changes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.893-907
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• 2001

The main purpose is to study the effects of princess lines on different body types and to disguise any imperfection by using diverse princess lines. We separated testers body shapes into specific body types, H, Y by applying both the direct and the indirect measurements. These designs were evaluated by using the point ranking system method, and then average scores were obtained from these evaluations. Following are the results of the study: 1 These are the resulting illusion effects when the shoulder width of the Princess line was fixed. When the Princess line originated from 1/3 point of the armhole, body types Y appeared to show narrow waist width. A-line silhouette appeared to display the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 2/3 point of the armhole, body types H and Y appeared to exhibit narrowest waist widths, and the A-line silhouette once again displayed the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 1/2 point of the armhole, body type H appeared to exhibit narrow width; and H-line silhouette displayed the narrowest shoulder width 2. When the Princess lines waist w'4th was fixed in order to study illusion effects of waist widths. In this experiment, locations of Princess lines and widths of the skirt were varied. When the waist width was fixed at 6.5 cm, For the H body type, the Princess line location of 1/3 point of the armhole in H-line silhouette design exhibited the narrowest waist width. For the Y body type in A-line silhouette design, the Princess line locations of 1/3 and 1/2 points of the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width because it displayed the hourglass effect. When the waist width was fixed at 10 cm, H body type did not exhibit any significant differences between designs. For Y body type, A-line silhouette design with the Princess line origination point at 1/3 down the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width. 3. The illusion effects of the hip were studied by fixating the width of the skirt and varying the locations of Princess line and waist widths. In H-line skirt silhouette designs, all two body types exhibited narrow hips when the Princess line origination points were at 1/3 and 1/2 way down the armhole. For A-line skirt silhouette, H body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/2 point in the shoulder was shown. Y body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/3 point of the armhole and 2/3 point of the shoulder. 4. With both waist and skirt widths fixed, all two body types exhibited taller and slender postures when the Princess line originated from the shoulder compare to the armhole.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.179-196
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• 2013

This research is about the mechanical properties of knit pullover of Shaping and WholeGarment according to structured patterns and form of the armhole. For the study 12 samples are prepared under different conditions and through comparative analysis of each sample's armhole around armpit in basic properties, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation after repeated extensions, the conclusion is as follows. As a result of comparing basic properties of structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, in all structured patterns Shaping samples weighed more. According to the comparative analysis of tensile strength & elongation of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, Machi on both sides of WholeGarment samples showed the highest strength. By comparing outcome of residual elongation by structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, both types were observed to have the residual elongation increase in the order of Plain

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.137-148
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• 2008

This article investigates the production process of knitwear focused on patterns and armhole forms in order to provide basic data for its value-added production. This study was based on empirical data obtained by questionnaires given to 51 respondents employed at knitwear companies. The data had been statistically analyzed with frequency analysis, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan test. The results of this study are the following: First, many knitwear companies used knitting machines, which had gauges as high as 14G. Second, most knitwears companies did not use patterns in the production process. Third, most knitwear companies produced knitwears in which armhole lines were different between the front part and back part of the body, while identical between the front and back parts of the sleeves. Fourth, people with experience in the knitwear industry had the tendency to recognize that armhole lines should be different between the front part of both the body and sleeves and their back part as well, and workers in charge of knitting recognized better than programmers and designers did. Considering the opinions of experienced workers that armhole lines differ between the front and back parts of both the body and sleeves would improve the appearance of knitwear, this study also suggests knitwear patterns of 10G and 16G by using ESMODE's basic knitwear pattern.