• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.247-264
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• 1993

This study deals with the manufacturing of the foundation garments for the well-balanced somatotype of the Korean middle-aged womenhood. In order to get hold of the different somatotypes, a survey of a total of 134 middle-aged women in Kwangju area, ranging in their age from 45 through 59 was made. The statistical methods used for the analysis of the basic data were the Pearson's correlation coefficient, Anova, Cluster analysis and Stepwise. Emphasis of the try-on test was placed on (1) the comparison of anthropometric data before and after trying on the foundation garments, (2) sensory evaluation, (3) a rating on fit and performance, (4) the comparison by means of photograph. The conclusions obtained are as follows : 1) The 134 women sampled and measured were classified into the five groups of somatotype : the 52 women (34%) belong to Cluster 1 ; the 22 women(14.5%) belong in Cluster 2 ; the 12 women(7.9%) belong in Cluster 3 ; the 15 women(9.9%) belong in Cluster 4 ; the 33 women(27.7%) belong to Cluster 5. 2) As for the characteristics of the foundation garment design, the V-shaped neckline and chest dart was used. The adjust point is right above the perineum point. The foundation garment length is as far as trochanteric point. The materials used are cotton/polyurethane, lace, 100%cotton. The materials used for corrections were the sponge pad for the chest, and non-woven fabric pad for the back, shoulder and the hip. 3) The comparison of the anthropometric data of the subject when dressed in foundation garments showed a significant difference in bust point height, in bust point length and in nipple-ta-nipple breadth, which proves the foundation garments to be effective in correcting such part as the chest, the hip and the abdomen. 4) As considered in terms of the sensory evaluation, the item except for the shoulder and the armhole coincided with each other in the mean value and in the composite reliability coefficient, which also proves the foundation garments to be effective. 5) Subjects were satisfactory on fit, performance, design, of the foundation garment, and their changed appearance. 6) In the case of the comparison through the photographs, the silhouettes of all the five women subjects were found effectively to be balanced.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1109-1120
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• 2009

This study develops a fitted torso type basic pattern for men by utilizing 3D body scan data. Recent fashion trends are reflected in the development of the pattern. The subjects were 15 men in their 20's, who wear size 95 (M size). Body scan data was obtained through a 3D whole body scanner (WB4, Cyberware, USA), and a body surface development figure for developing male fitted torso type basic pattern was attained through the use of Rapid Form 2006 as well as Auto CAD 2006 programs. The results are as follows: A body surface development figure through body surface segment method showed high exactitude in an error range of 100$\pm$1%. In addition, it occurred in an error range of 100:1:3% because of the hard scanning conditions in the incline of the shoulder and armpit areas. However, the body surface development figure as well as the direct measurement results can be used as basic data for the given patternmaking since the error range falls into 100$\pm$3%. Dart amounts obtained from the average cross section were center back 2.2cm (24.3%), back armpit point 3.8cm (41.8%), front armpit point 3.0cm (33.9%). As shown the jacket pattern, the biggest dart amount was portioned out at the back armpit point. The drafting equations for the development pattern acquired are as follows; Full width=C/2+5cm, back length=height/4-1cm, armhole depth=(C/10+12cm)+3cm, back width=2C/10+2cm, front width=2C/10. The development pattern was a fitted torso basic pattern that was composed of 3 pieces, so it would be very useful in developing shirt or jacket patterns. According to the results of the evaluation of the developed pattern appearance, it obtained higher scores of over 3.5 points in almost items, meaning that the developed pattern is appropriate for a male fitted torso type basic pattern. It suggests a possibility of patternmaking from a body surface development figure in 2-D to prototype.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.108-119
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• 2005

The objective of the study is was investigate the condition of the battle dress uniform worn by male members of the Korean Police Special Weapons Attack Team(KP-SWAT), identify problems, and provide basic raw materials for developing improved design of BDU. For this purpose, the researcher conducted a questionnaire survey on 92 male members of SWAT (Special Weapon Attack Team) units in Seoul using a questionnaire developed through observation and interview. Also, the body sizes of male SWAT members were measured. According to the results of body size measurements, male SWAT members generally require uniforms with a target bust girth, armhole, biceps circumference, thigh and calf circumference, longer jacket length, sleeve length, and trouser length to the knee. According to the results of the questionnaire survey, they reported dissatisfaction with the fit. In addition, they said that the Pockets are positioned too low for convenient use. Many subjects reported that their trousers were too short because of the rubber rings at the bottom of the legs. In addition, many subjects requested the alteration of the inconveniences caused by the designs finished with velcro on the bottom collar of the upper uniform, the marks and ensigns of the upper uniform, the bottom of the upper and lower uniform, and several pockets. Furthermore, there were many complaints concerning how they had to wear their uniform. The most frequently worn out and the body parts most often injured in field training and operations, they were reported, on the upper uniform, as the elbow, collar, neck, armpit, shoulder, and sleeve hem in that order, and on the lower uniform, the knee, interior calf, waist (belt rings), buttocks (rear pockets), and the bottom of the trousers (ankle) in that order As for questions concerning priorities in the improvements of the operational uniform and preferred design, the subjects recommended improvement in safety (protectiveness), workability (motional flexibility), design (shape), fit (size), comfort, ease in terms of putting on and taking off, etc., and the majority preferred two-piece designs ($67.4\%$), followed by one-piece ($30.4\%$), or both ($2.2\%$).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.113-125
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• 2010

This study is purpose to trace a genealogy of Rainbow stripe in 30 ethnic costumes in East Asia. And with through comparative views between Korean and the other minority that is shown a bilateral relation of rainbow stripe in their costume, we make sure the unique character of rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume. The stripe in the costumes was generally used on sleeves with 3~6 patches. There were 10 types of methods for making the stripe including sewing. Weaving and sewing with trimming was also frequently used either and the stripe by weaving with multicolored yarns were mostly found in the southern region of china. Black, blue and red were frequently used in the costume as a main color that was contrasted with rainbow stripe and especially, black was mostly used. Korean preferred bright colors as a main color. Contents of the genealogy of the multicolored stripe in ethnic costume in East Asia are followed. The 28 ethnic groups who used the stripe in their dress except Korean, the Mans, Mongo people and Tibetan were located in the southern region of East Asia. And the other ethnic groups distributed in the northwest and northeast region of East Asia. The distribution of the rainbow stripe in the costume could be grouped into two sections: the southern region people and Korean-the Mongol people-the Tus- the Zangs group. And the latter group was shown strong relation with the culture of Korean's rainbow stripe costume. 11 ethnic peoples including Korean, the Vis, the Miaos, the Tus, the Mongol people, the Chaoxians, the Zangs, the Lahus, the Jinuos, the Hanis, the Luobas and the Dulongs, were saliently used the stripe in their costume. The stripe in Japanese costume was judged that was not a kind of the rainbow stripe was shown the other ethnic groups, was a color arrangement by layered dress or geometrical pattern. From above, we could recap a particular characteristic of the rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume. Many colors were used in the stripe and bodies than the other ethnic people and the color was bright. In many cases, a color of patch at the point of armhole was red and Black color was not used in the stripe. The width of patch was a relatively narrow and regular. It has shown that the rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume was organized independently.