• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.29-45
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• 1997

This study aims at designing sleeves which are suitable for arm shapes and arm movements. With the samples of of ordinary 24 women aged from 20 to 22, the arm shapes and movements were measured 3-dimensionally using a motion analyzer and a sonic digitizer, and then clasified into three characteristic types (A, B, and C). Our analysis leads to the following conclusion. The factors classifying arm shapes are the length from acromion to posterior armpit point, arm hole length, the cap height, difference in height between anterior and posterior armpit points, armhole circumference, upper arm circumferemce, armhole depth, and underarm circumference. The characteristics of arm type A is that the armhole depth and the length from acromion to posterior armpit point are the largest, while the circumference inbe- tween upper arm and elbow is the smallest among the three arm types. Thus, the large circumference difference between upper and lower arms is the most notable in arm type A. The factors classifying arm shapes for arm type B are the smallest except for the circumference inbetween upper arm and elbow which is larger than that for arm type A. The circumference difference betweemn upper and lower arms is small for arm type B. Arm type C has the smallest armhole depth, while other factors are similar to those for arm type B. In type C, the size of upper arm is comparatively small on the frontal plane, while it is the largest on the sagital plane.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.69-79
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to compare fitting of the upper garment by brassiere cup size and types of bodice block. This study conducted a 3D virtual garment system by applying three types of bodice block (I, II, III) and experimental pattern of the bodice block to 3D avatars of four individuals with the following measurements: under bust circumference of 73.5 cm and bust circumferences of 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0cm. The results of the study were as follows. First, for 83.5 cm bust circumference (A Cup), appearance of the three types of bodice block (I, II, III) was appropriate. However, as bust circumference increased in size, shape became inappropriate. The depth and width of the armhole, within 15 cm and 11 cm, respectively, were found to be appropriate. In case of 91.0 cm bust circumference (D Cup), all three bodices (I, II, III) were inappropriate. Second, the results of the draft of the experimental patterns of the bodice block of bust circumference measuring 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0 cm in the 3D avatars of the four individuals revealed similarities in the frontal view of the silhouette in the four avatars; in the case of the lateral view of the silhouette, lateral width grew wider as bust circumference of the silhouette became larger, but the shape of armhole showed no changes. The depth of the armhole showed little changes from 15.1 cm to 15.22 cm, and the height of sleeve (armscye depth 13.6 cm within +2 cm) remained similar. The difference in width of the armhole from 11.26 cm to 11.37 cm was rather small. The width of the upper sleeve (8.97 cm) seemed to be appropriate as it remained within the 2-3 cm boundary.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.299-312
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to create a shirt sloper suitable for an elderly male body shape by producing virtual models using a 3D-virtualization program, making a torso prototype using the Yuka CAD system, and employing 3D simulation to virtualize and calibrate the model. First, the following three types of obese dummies are implemented through the CLO 3D program: Type 1 exhibits body fat in the lower body; Type 2 exhibits an obese abdomen; and Type 3 displays a balanced form of obesity. Second, for the design of the shirt pattern, the waist back length (measured value+1), back armhole depth (C/10+12+3+0.5~1.5), front armhole depth (back armhole depth 0~1), front interscye (2C/10-1+0.5-0.5), armscye depth (C/10+2+3.5+ 0.5), back interscye (2C/10-1+1), front chest C (C/4+2.5+1), back chest C (C/4+2.5-1), front hem C (C/4+2.5+1(+2)), back hem C (C/4+2.5-1(+2)), cap height (AH/3-5), and biceps width (Front AH-1, Back AH-1) are calculated. Third, the virtual attachment of the shirt pattern is resolved by increasing the front and back armhole depths, and the front and rear wrinkles are improved by adding a back armhole dart. The front hem lift and lateral pull caused by the protrusion of the abdomen are amended by increasing the margin of the chest, waist C, and hip C, with the appearance improved by balanced margin distribution in the front, back, and side panels. The improved retail pattern with an increase in the front armholes C was balanced on the torso plate.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.52-68
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• 2012

To achieve the aim of this study, 9 different types of samples were made to examine mechanical property according to structured pattern and type of Machi of pullover armhole of WholeGarment(seamless knitwear). With respect to samples, from which comparisons are made and anaylzed among basic characteristics of material, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation due to repeated extension of armhole connecting part, the following conclusions could be obtained. It's revealed that the tensile strength of Machi part as being armhole connecting part of samples is more affected by Machi type than pattern structure. Of Machi types, it showed stronger tensile strength in the order of Normal(Normal Machi)< Machi_B(unilateral Machi)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.219-228
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• 2003

The purpose of this study were to examine the characteristics of arm types proposed in the previous study and to present sleeve patterns according size and shape of 4 arm types. 31 direct and indirect items were measured. The subjects for this study were 132 females of twenties. The results were as follows. 1. All of the direct measurements showed significant difference by the arm types. especially at the front armhole part. Such a.: the items of arm gradients, armhole sizes belong to the indirect measurements made clear difference also. 2. By the discriminant analysis, 9 items including underarm length, front armhole girth, upper arm girth, degree of elbow point-wrist point discriminated arm type by the hit ratio of 90.4% Item related to shape of arm rather than size made a sharp distinction. 3. Through the examination of existing patterns and wearing tests on the subjects among 4 groups, sleeve patterns classified by the arm type were suggested.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.821-829
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• 2019

This study investigated the location of grading lines and grading amount for a jacket item by the target age groups (20-30, 30-40, and 40-50) for 17 women's wear brands. This study then utilized 7th SizeKorea data to analyze the increase rate of body size and to suggest the grading deviation distribution ratio of the jackets using regression analysis. The increase in neck girth of the jackets targeting aged 30-40s did not reflect the human body change rate. The shoulder length increased by 4.6%-8.1% with the bust girth increase; however, the brands produced longer shoulder length reflecting 20-35% of the bust girth increase. The armhole girth was 54.9% - 59.7% of bust circumstance increase rate. However, the 20-30 target age group brands distributed 80% of bust girth to armhole girth and the 30-40 and the 40-50 target age group brands distributed 50% of the bust girth to armhole. In particular, the 20-30 target age group brands were found to produce a large margin around the armhole. When it came to length items, the brands targeting 20-30s and the 40-50s reflected deviation distribution rate of length from underarm to waist and length from waist to hip in comparison with the overall jacket length deviation. The 30-40 target age group brands, 8 out of 20 brands distributed the jacket length deviation in the length from the back of neck to the underarm; consequently, only 22% percent should be distributed in this part.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.275-284
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.420-432
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to survey the present women's golf windbreaker market to develop the trendy product with supplementing design and functionality by grasping the inconvenient part through the result of the questionnaire. According to the questionnaire, 38.1% said that the armhole is the most inconvenient part by tightfitting. Therefore, a mobility of wearer was enhanced by giving shirring detail to the armhole for flexibility through inserting the elastic band with a regular interval around armhole in the design1. The swing movement was allowed to be convenient by attaching knit to the side panel. And, the sleeves were designed in the detachable form so those are allowed to be produced in two kinds such as long sleeves and short sleeves. In the design2, a zipper was inserted from the neckline to the armhole so it is designed a detachable bolero. Furthermore, it was designed to be possible to wear two different way as a jumper style and a vest style. Given wearing a vest, the sleeve part was patched knit, thereby having enhanced activity. The design1 and the design2 evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment. Assessment group consists of 5 subject groups and 10 expert groups to evaluate external appearance and movement adaptability. In the external appearance evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than design2. In the movement adaptability evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the wrist area. In the group of professionals, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the bottom area.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.315-323
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• 2023

In the diverse modern era, individuals are actively striving to develop and demonstrate their capabilities . As a means of cultivating interest in hanbok and differentiatedabilities , there exists a national qualification verification for hanbok technician. This study focuses on using Saekdong-jeogori pattern that is suitable for design and allows for accurate pattern production in a short time for beginners taking the practical test for hanbok technicians. We analyzed five experimental Saekdong-jeogori patterns, from which the final patterns for research were derived through appearance tests on the first table evaluation and the second outfit evaluation. The Saekdong-jeogori pattern-1 for research utilized the body values presented by beginners taking the hanbok technician qualification verification, while the rest were calculated or applied using equivalents. The godae point and armhole depth were calculated based on the chest circumference, and the armhole curve, sleeve shape, doryeon line, and sleeve-end were drawn, regardless of the changes in the figures, using equal parts. The Saekdong-jeogori pattern-2 provided activity by vertically lowering the side line from the end of the armhole, and the keotseop line was drawn by moving 1 cm from the width of the Kit to the armhole line. The seopko was raised 0.2 cm from the keotseop reference line and0.2cm , and was supplemented by its connection to a natural curve.