• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.88-98
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• 2005

This study focuses on the needs at both consumers and manufacturers. It aims to find ways for consumers to purchase outfits that would fit their particular body type and preferences at reasonable prices, choose raw materials and style at garments, and virtually try them on. In addition, the study is designed to help apparel manufacturers identity customers' changing needs, reduce inventories, manage information on customers' body type in a digitalized form, and eventually contribute to promoting electronic commerce. Based on nine basic patterns that tit each subject, 108 virtual garments are created by adjusting the size of the patterns (9 subjects $\times$ 4 body parts $\times$ 3 patterns = 108 outfits). In order to determine fitting preferences for each body part and find optimized conditions, cross-tabulation analysis including $X^2$ and frequency analysis were performed to measure the appearance rate. A style of virtual garment, which is minus 2cm from chest size was chosen as the most appropriate pattern to the baseline location of front the chest. For the waist parts, the C style as an appropriate virtual garment to front and back view. In the front, lateral and back view, a style was chosen in the response to the sleeve-bodice combinations, the ease amount of armhole area, the armhole depth and the loosening of tightening or armhole line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.1 s.29
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• pp.49-58
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• 1989

A clothing-erogonomics study was performed to investigate the difference of the upper arm skin skin surface and the relationship among the three aspects of upper arm (height of sleeve rap, sleeve width and armhole girth) by changing arm movements. Plaster cast was used for this experimental research. Arm movements consist of 9 types; just carmly standing on ($0^{\circ}$), and each 4 types ($45^{\circ},\;90^{\circ},\;135^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) to the vertical direction in front and in side. The results were as follows; 1) As the arm-movement angle increased, the height of sleeve cap decreased and that ratio was largest in the portion A-B3. 2) The steeve width was enlarged with the increment of movement angle in all portions of upper arm except B1-B5. 3) As increasing the movement angle, the whole armhole girth decreased and the ratio o(front armhole girth (F-A) was larger than that of back. 4) In the vertical direction in front, the height o( the sleeve caps was larger, the sleeve widths were smaller than in the vertical direction in side in all movement types, but there was no significant difference in arm-hole girth between the two cases. 5) There were significantly negative relationships between measurements in height of sleeve cap and those in sleeve width, and also between those in height of sleeve cap and in arm-hole girth. And significantly positive relationships were found between neasurements in height of sleeve cap and those in arm-hole girth.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.182-194
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• 2001

The main purpose is to study lines on different body types and to disguise any imperfections by using diverse princess lines. We separated festers body shapes into specific body types, A, H by applying both the direct and the indirect measurements. Following are the results of the study: 1. nose are the resulting illusion effects when the shoulder width of the princess line was fixed. In case of the armhole princess line, the illusion that the waist intervals were narrow or wide in A-line silhouette. In case the shoulder princess line, when the waist interval was narrow, it appeared to show narrow shoulder in A-line silhouette. While the wide waist interval shows the wide shoulder width in H-line silhouette. It regards body type H in the same light as H-line silhouette when the waist interval is narrow, it appeared to show narrow shoulder width in A-line silhouette. When the waist interval was wide, it appeared to give the narrow shoulder width. 2. When the princess lines waist width was fixed in order to study illusion effects of waist widths. Generally, for body type A, Whether the waist interval princess line is narrow or wide, the princess line is located comparatively wide, in A-line silhouette appeared to show relatively slender waist. For body type H, whether the waist interval is narrow or wide, the princess line us situated comparatively narrow interval, H-line silhouette appeared to show sum waist but the differences are not significant 3. The illusion of the hip were studied by fixating the width of the skirt and varying the locations of princess line and waist widths. For the location of both armhole and shoulder princess line in H and A-line silhouette, the narrow shoulder width and the waist appeared to show narrow hips. mile they are wide appeared to show wide hips. 4. With both waist and skirt width fuel, all two body types showed taller and slender postures when the princess line originated from the shoulder compare to the armhole.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.778-792
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify women (aged from 49~59), who have recently emerged as consumers, and their clothing preferences, and it suggests how to make jackets provide better fit and wearability. The results of the study are as follows. In drafting a pattern for size 66 tailored collar jacket with an X-silhouette, it was made with front waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, a back length of B/4+1.3 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 34.5 cm, to allow for easy movement. In drafting a size 66 high neck collar jacket, it was made with a front and back waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 35 cm. In drafting a size 66 sports collar jacket with an A-silhouette, it was made with front and back waist lengths measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, and a side dart of 1.3 cm, to provide raglan sleeves. The last experimental jacket pattern improved the appearance and moving fitness evaluation especially for shoulder and arm movement. Based on analysis, jackets were made and subjected to an appearance evaluation using multi-modules to test the level of wearing satisfaction for each fabric and silhouette. the results of the multi-module wearing tests indicate that the preferred silhouettes caused less stressful situations in terms of both psychological and physiological signals.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.700-711
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficult in draft of patternmaking, fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve under the controled situation. Five types of two piece sleeve that were originated from five countries including domestic companies which called A type, B type, C type, D type, and E type were used. In order to conduct the experiment fur the study, 10 persons who were well organized about the patternmaking drafted 5 types of sleeve and were tested for the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficulty in draft of patternmaking. Another panel were tested for fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve in jacket under the controled situation. The results of this study were as followed 1. C type was needed height of armhole in bodice and D type was needed height of armhole and width of armhole in bodice as well as all parts of sleeve measurements to draft patternmaking. 2. There were significant differences of the items such as cap height, ease amount around sleeve cap, width of sleeve, forwardness of sleeve and the length of elbow line of the five types patternmaking drafted. 3. There were significant differences of difficulty in draft of the five types of patternmaking. C type and E type were easier to draft. 4. There were significant differences in fitness of the sleeves in jacket. C type and E type were more fit. 5. There were significant differences in aesthetic view. A type, B type and E type were more aesthetic under the situation. 6. There were significant differences in fashionableness in jackets. A type and E type were more fashionable under the situation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1242-1253
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to suggest a designing method with excellent body suitability by analyzing clothingwearing porosity, comparing and analyzing patterns, and evaluating outer appearances by designing a prototype of study applied with design measurements for categories that have influence on the outer appearance of clothing through diverse research methods, by comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, which are proportional basic patterns most frequently used in schools for educational use to design bodice pattern for elderly women in their late 60s. As for the process of this study, the first stage selected study subjects, measured bodies. The second stage compared patterns of bunka and new bunka style basic pattern and evaluated outer appearances that deduced important pattern designing categories to design upper-torso bodice pattern of elderly women. The results of this study are as following ; As a result of comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, overall evaluation of outer appearance was excellent for new bunka style basic pattern, and bunka basic pattern received better reviews for the width and depth of front neck. In terms of waist circumference, waist front length, bust point location and bust point-bust point, bunka and new bunka style basic patterns showed a significant difference. new bunka style basic pattern had 4.5cm larger front armhole depth than bunka basic pattern, so it was evaluated to have more appropriate front armhole length, bust point location, and bust point-bust point. Through observation for primary excellent categories and precedent studies, 7 categories of front neck width, front neck depth, front interscye, back neck width, back neck depth, back interscye, and back armhole depth were deduced to have relations to the extra room around arm holes and waist that affect pattern designing method and porosity and evaluations of outer appearance.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.105-112
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• 1997

This study was carried out to examine the calculations including the ease amount for bodice pattern. The conclusions were as follows. The areas that were required the ease amount were the horizontal reference line, armhole depth, back & front width. According to this result the calculations including the ease amount were obtained as follows: B/2+4.1cm for horizontal reference line, B/6+6.8 cm for armhole depth, B/6+3.9 cm for the half of back width, B/6+2.3 cm for the half of front width, B/4+4.3 cm for bust point length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.940-951
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• 2012

This study evaluates the fit preference of the tailored jacket according to body types for 20's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point fit evaluation scale utilizing a wearer acceptability scale by Shen and Huck was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. This scale contained 23 items in three categories: front fit, back fit, and side fit. For each item, 5 responses from 'too tight' fit (1 point) to 'too loose' fit (5 point) were possible. The middle position for each fit criterion indicated a 'good' fit (3 point). The data were analyzed with a t-test using statistical program SPSS 17.0. According to the results, there were no significant differences ($p{\leq}.05$) between the real and virtual fit preference in total measurement items such as front collar, lapel and roll line, front shoulder slope, front armhole, front waist, abdomen, sideseam, hemline, front silhouette, side shoulder, side armhole, side sleeve width, side hip, side silhouette, back collar stand, upper back, back armhole, back waist, back hip, back silhouette except front bust, side waist, and back center back. The factor that caused a difference in the fit preference between the real and virtual fit evaluation was a specific body type such as Body Type A that indicated a small bust circumference and a big hip circumference.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.476-487
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to suggest torso patterns that fit the three main body shapes of elderly obese women. To reduce time, costs, and also the trial and error needed to make patterns, the CLO program for 3D test wear was employed. Three virtual models for aged obese women were use, with the YUKA system used to produce torso patterns. 3D simulation of test wear and corrections was done to design optimal torso patterns. The results were as follows: First, for the three models of obese women's body shapes as realized by CLO 3D, Type 1 is lower-body obesity shapes, Type 2 is abdominal obesity shapes, and Type 3 is whole-body obesity shapes. Second, to design the study patterns, actual measurement values, back waist length and waist to hip length, were used. The armhole depth (B/4-1.5), front interscye (B/6+2.3), front neck width (B/12-0.5), front neck depth (B/12+0.5), front waist measurement (W/4+ 1.5+D), front hip measurement (H/4+2+0.5), and back hip measurement (H/4+3-0.5) were calculated using formulas. Third, according to the results of test-wearing the study patterns, reduced front neck width and depth improved the neck fit and reduced armhole depth bettered loose or plunging armhole girth and also reduced the sagging of bust c.. Also, tight sidesfrom aprotruded waist and abdomen improved with the increase of surpluses in the back waist and also back and front hip c. The exterior was enhanced by displacement of back and front darts, which distributed surpluses better.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.690-703
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to help user understand the basic principles and interfaces of each program, and to provide a base material for the development of more efficient apparel CAD systems to compensate for each program's shortcomings by comparing the function of three apparel CAD systems: Yuka CAD, Opti-tex, and Style CAD. For this purpose, the skirt waistband and sleeve armhole line creation process were selected based on these two criteria. 1) There is a big difference between principle and method between CAD systems. 2) When CAD system is used rather than paper drawing process, the process is shortened and convenience is high. In this study, pros and cons and supplement point of each CAD system are suggested by comparing the functions of the CAD system performing the selected drafting process by four criteria: icon, key, method, and characteristic point. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the three CAD systems differ in the basic principle and interface environment. As a result of analyzing the skirt waistband method function, it was confirmed that the band line is formed directly on the outline of the skirt and the band dart recognition function is the most efficient function and as a result of the analyzing the sleeve armhole line method function, it was confirmed that the curve generation function using the shape of the actual curve measure and the length adjustment function through the automation of the dimension calculation is the most efficient function.