• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.22-39
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• 2013

This thesis aims to investigate the characteristics of the civil costume in Netherlands women and the way how the civil culture was reflected on these by analyzing the women's costume depicted in the works of the Johannes Vermeer regarded as the representative painter of Netherlands in 17th century. The method of study was to select 24 pieces of Vermeer's works among the 30 pieces, and were analyzed in detail. These were approved to be common civil costumes by researching the works of other painters in that era on the other hand. The result shows that the civil costume of Netherlands women from 1653 until 1675 was in the simple form of two pieces dress, and minimal decorations with simple hair style and headdress would take the constitution of the frugality, chastity and practicality as the mainstream, along with using the red, yellow and blue as the primary three colors on to the costumes. These characteristics might be ascribed to the Netherlands civil culture influenced by the Calvinism that emphasized the frugality and chastity, denouncing the luxury with supporting the religion and morality. This trend was also noted in the men's costume, giving evidence of the intimate relationship between the costume, religion and civil culture. This thesis might be a help to elucidate the relationship between the costume and cultural society, and be a affordable tools to study the contemporary costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.12-23
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• 2008

This study reports the costume changes and the factors of the changes from stone status in joseon dynasty. It can be summarized as follows: First, the artisan for the statues is one of the most important factors for the costume changes. The artisans who were involved in building the King's tomb were also made the stone statues for scholars' tombs. This results in that the style of the King's tomb influenced the costumes of stone statues for scholars' tombs. Some craftsmen who were buddhist monks also influenced the introduction of buddhist arts. Second, the stone statues are classified into 3 types according to the dead's social position: the civil officer statues, the military official statues, and the servant statues are installed for the civil officer, the military officers, and others, respectively. This principle was applied well. However, the civil official statues are mainly installed in late joseon dynasty because the civil officers are socially preferred to the military officers in late joseon dynasty. Third, there are two types of civil officer statues; Gongbok type and jobok type. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were mainly installed in early joseon dynasty and civil officer statues of jobok type were begun to be installed in the early 16th century. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were fade out after the late 17th century. Fourth, there are three reasons why civil officer statues of jobok type were installed at the officers's tombs 270 years earlier than at the Kings' tombs: 1) Introduction of Daemyunghoejeon and its application, 2) an establishment of a system that requires to prepare jobok individually, and 3) self-confidence of scholars' class on political and cultural maturity.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.34-34
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• 2003

This report is a study of designs embroidered in rank badges of military and civil officials' uniform in old China. Rank badges, or Bo(補) in Chinese, which are attached to officials' uniform, are embroidered designs on the breast and the back for people to easily discern between military and civil officials as well as between higher ranking and lower ranking officials. Bo(補) was used for various social stratum including king, queen, king's brothers, prince, and princess. This study, however, is focused on design of Bo(補) attached to the uniform of military and civil officials. This study first started with the origin of Bo(補) design, woven symbols in patches on the breast and the back of Gibsa(集史)'s uniform during the Yuan(元) dynasty. Lastly, this study reviewed and analyzed design of Bo(補) for military and civil officials during the Ming(明) and Qing(淸) dynasties.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.37-47
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• 1999

In the 17th century, Europe had changed from medieval feudalistic ages into an absolute monarchy taking Catholicism and absolute monarchism together. On the other hand, Holland achieved prosperity in economy, culture, and arts through gradual enlightment of the people by winning independence from Spain, and religious reformation. The culture dress and its ornaments at the time was led by the governing class such as royal families and its aristocracy in Europe, while Holland, united republic country at the time, brought civil costume nationwide wholly by civil class and its effect to other neighboring countries in Europe. In addition, the origin of modern dress and its ornaments dates back to that time. Moreover, civil-looking dutch paintings found its sources in routine daily life and became realistic. With this respect, in this research, we put our purpose of the research in making a better and more understanding of the modern costume and its ornaments and exploring the spirit of human beings by analyzing dutch civil costumes shown in these artistic works. It is very important that this research is rather renovational comparing with prior ones focused on those of ruling classes. As a result of the research, the distinguished parts of the civil costumes appeares as following beauties. First, functional beauty was respected such as natural waist line, peplum, gather of the skirt and sleeve, apron, head towel were some of the examples to those in their costumes and its ornaments. Second, with respect to humanity under rough natural surroundings and long struggle with outside tribes, humanity of costume was brought by optimistic and even free mind to them. The three quater sleeve showed wrist and deep-cut decollete in their dress and ornaments. Third, with respect to simplicity, religious effect on the leading civil class demanding self-abstinence, frugality, and thrift in their way of life resulted in black-tone simple costumes with white collar in their costumes and its ornaments.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.145-147
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• 2005

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.43-55
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• 2002

This study intends to consider the characteristics of Tudorian costume and find out how the thoughts and cultures in those days had influences on the costume trends of low and middle class. In terms of the Tudorian costume which generated new cultural mainstreams along with blossomed civil culture, this study focuses on the characteristics and trends of costume at low and middle class, which have been little addressed in studies on western costume history or related fields, turning from the costume of upper class based on wealthy noblemen who showed off its dignity and authority along with jewelry and gorgeous ornamental craftsmanship. This study used related pictures, museum material and other literatures as its reference. It first looked into the general characteristics of western costume and considered the characteristics of costumes popularized in professionals at middle class such as apprentice, yeomen and low-class people. Professional or other middle class almost typically used to wear tunic, doublet, shirts, coat or long gown. Black was mainly used as clothes color. Similarly to upper class, silk or velvet was very often used as material. People at low class enjoyed wear costumes with simple and easy style for working. They also preferred natural color and cotton or wool as material. This study intended to find out which type of costumes people at low and middle class enjoyed wearing, rather than compare costume between such two classes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.147-164
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to reproduce the ordinary attire of Yi Seung-hyu, a civil official and writer of the late Goryeo, which will be used to make a his portrait. The reproduced costume consists of a single-layered pyoui (表衣) and jungdan (中單), lined jeogori and baji, and geon (巾), created with reference to historical documents, materials, and portraits. The pyoui was made with samcheokbe, with an H-shaped neck-shoulder band, an oblique single collar, and rectangular gussets. Two skirts were attached on the inside at the back, similarly to dopo. The jungdan also has an oblique single collar, but has an I-shaped neck-shoulder band and triangular gussets. A flat felled seam stitch, whip stitch, and French seam stitch were used in the hemlines and seams of the pyoui and jungdan. The jeogori and baji were made with toju (土紬), and small ties were attached to stabilize them. The geon is a long, oblique hat, which has folded side lines, and was made with flexible black hangra and using a French seam stitch and backstitch. The results include the elements of "restoration, historical research, and portrait costume", and will be maintained as the cultural heritage of Samcheok City.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.35-45
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• 1998

Confucianism, the dominating thought in the Choson Dynasty, considered the congruence of scholar and bureaucrat as principle of royal politics, so it was the important affairs to educate and select scholars who excelled in Confucian science and its historical view. The process to educate and select the scholars in accordance with the spirit of Confucianism was called the civil service examination. In this study, we examined the dress and its ornaments of the Confucian students nd that of the successful candidate related to the system of the civil service examination, and focused on the literatures and figures. The Choson Dynasty looked upon the education as important and Confucian scholars and the successful candidate had the superior position in that society. The seems to have been the demarcation between the dress and its ornaments worn by the candidate and the successful candidate. According to the inquiry of the literatures and figures, the candidate is thought to have worn yuguhn(儒巾) or bokkuhn(幅巾) with chongsam(靑衫), nansam( 衫), jikryung(直領) and the successful candidate is thought to have worn bokduh( 頭) with easahwa(御史花), aengsam(鶯衫), danryung(團領) in the Choson Dynasty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.960-976
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• 2010

Even though Joseon Dynasty strictly identified between military and civil officials, the dress and its ornament have been studied only based on embroidery emblems that are correctly identified between military and civil officials. Thus, this study intends to research the features of the only military officials uniform, Cheollik, different from the civil officials's identifying them with other features shown from the records, unearthed relics, stone statue, Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan), etc., and its results are as follows: First, for wearing examples of the military officials, from the facts that they had worn mainly ordinary clothes, etc. on announcement of military service examination. There was no difference between military and civil officials's clothes by Daejeonhusokrok and the other documents, and there was an assertion that the form of the military and civil officials's clothes should be different by the document, Hongjejeonseo, in the latter term of the Joseon Dynasty. It is presumed that length, width and shape of sleeves might have been different. Second, unearthed Cheollik of the military officials are mostly from the 16th~17th centuries and most of them have removable sleeves according to statistics. The skirt had an opening and one or two slits. Various textiles were used. Third, military official statues of high governor wear small caps and helmets. They wear Cheollik with the collars same as the collar of Bangryeong and Jikryeong, which is also called Dopji Cheollik. It would be considered as they wear the Bangryeong on top of the Cheollik. Fourth, militarly officials described on the Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan) wear Cheollik, Rip, Donggae, Okro, Hongsadae, Hwando, Deungchae.