• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2002

The need for ready-to-wear clothing increases as the problem comes to arise from the fit of custommade clothing due to the characteristics of middle-aged women's somatotype. At this point of time, a study on the realities of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms is of very greatly significance. Therefore, this study was intended to identify the problem and improvements through the survey research of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms and further present the plan for development of custom-made clothing business. The questionnaire was framed based on the contents extracted from the preliminary questionnaire research for the pattern section chief of each business firm. Collected data were statistically processed using the SPSS 10.0 Windows program. As a result, the following findings were obtained: 1. The target age of the middle-aged women's clothing business firms ranged from more than 45 years to less than 50 years of age. Clothing business firms much made inroads into the ready-to-wear clothing market largely in the 1980s and the 1990s. Their active entry into the custom-made clothing market occurred in the 1970s and the 1980s. 2. In terms of the clothing production method of middle-aged women's clothing firms, some private boutique and designer brand clothing firms entered the clothing market with a focus on custom-made clothing in the beginning of its organization and introduced the production method of ready-to-wear clothing in accordance with changes in production methods and consumers' needs and wants. National brand clothing firms manufactured clothing with a focus on ready-to-wear clothing from the beginning of its organization, but at last they manufactured both partial custom-made and whole custom-made as the problem arose from ready-to-wear clothing. Seeing that their clothing production showed the ratio readyto-wear to custom-made clothing of 2.58:1. And it was found that the manufacture of ready-to-wear and custom-made clothing took into consideration the great difference in the pattern, size and design plan. The research of the clothing production process showed that whole custom-made and partial custommade were distinguished according to whether or not the sample was presented. 3. The ready-to-wear pattern of middle-aged women's clothing firms were used with a focus on the 'patternmaker-developed pattern' and company-developed pattern'. Most clothing businesses produced clothing in 4 to 5 basic sizes, which is found to be insufficient to complement the physical characteristics of middle-aged women with many specific somatotypes. In the pattern of custom-made clothing, the 'pattern of ready-to-wear were applied' or the 'customized pattern was developed'. Actual measurements were most used as the size of custom-made, and accordingly it is predicted that the level of satisfaction is higher with the fit of custom-made clothing than that of ready-to-wear. The selling place and the head office showed the similar percent as the place for measuring the size of custom-made clothing. Size measurers were mostly the shop master. And it was found that most clothing business firms had a problem when the measured size was applied to the pattern. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide education on size measurement for shop masters. 4. It was found that in the middle-aged women's clothing firms, the pattern correction of the length of sleeve, jacket and slacks occupied the highest percent. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide for the size system to complement the accurate somatotype characteristics of middle-aged women. 5. In custom-made clothing customer management, most firms engaged in customer somatotype management through size management. They provided customers with commodity information by informing them of the sales and event period and practiced human management for customers by maintaining the get-together and friendly relationship. 6. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it would be necessary to improve the fit of custom-made clothing and complement their pursuit for individuality as the plan to improve its quality. In consequence, it suggests that middle-aged women's clothing businesses should provide middle-aged women with the clothing of better-suited size and refined design. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it was the most urgent task to form the custom-made clothing manufacturing team as the plan to expand the custom-made clothing market, which is identified as their emphasis on the systematized production of custom-made clothing.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.71-86
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• 2002

This study's purpose is to gain basic data for the factory automation of manufacturing custom-made girdles. For this study , obese women in their 30s and 40s was experimented through direct measuring and by the 3D scanner, by means of which the proportions of the subject's body was measured. Based upon the results of this experiment, individually designed girdles were made. In order to gain the basic data for the factory automation of manufacturing custom-made girdles, the patterns and the clothing pressure and the feeling of wearing such girdles were analyzed. This study can be summarized as follows: The material properties and the designs of existing functional girdles in the market were studied thoroughly, and the subject were required to wear those existing girdles. On the basis of this result, the experimental girdles were designed and produced which could serve well the subject's intension. The experimental girdles were of the basic long-type in order to apply to all sorts of girdles, and they were produced according to the style and pattern of the existing grading system. The second experiment was conducted by applying the subject's body measurements. Due to the elasticity of the material, in girdles the smaller measurements were to be used in this second experiment were: 80% of waist size, 84% of the hip and 85% of the thigh. To determine the length of the girdles, the same measurements were applied. The test results of the feeling of wearing the experimental girdles showed that the second, custom-made experimental girdles were better. According to the test results of the clothing pressure, the second experimental girdles(custom-made girdles) marked the higher pressure than the first on every part of the body, especially on the hips and thighs. Thus, it can be said that the second experimental girdles are better than the first in lifting up the hips. It is expected that the design methods developed in this study can be utilized as basic resources for the factory automation system of manufacturing custom-made girdles.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.471-483
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• 2013

The study aimed to investigate the wearing & purchase practices with shirts and analyze the group differences on the shirt size, BMI & perceived body type. Total usable questionnaires were obtained from 350 male office workers aged from 20 to 49 in Seoul. Results were gained from the statistical analysis such as factor analysis, ANOVA, t-test using SPSS 21.0. The results were as follows. First, male office workers had difficulty in choosing the right size among the different sizes of ready-made shirts and had trouble in vexatious order & high price for custom-made shirts, however, they had an emphasis on design and size for the 2 kinds of shirts in common. Second, the groups by shirt size, BMI, perceived body type showed significant differences in shirt fitness and shirt wearing methods of ready-made shirts but showed no difference in purchase intention of custom-made shirts. Fatness and body type were proved to be important for wearing shirts and it was assumed that there were socio-psychological reasons for the custom-made shirt purchase. Finally, the groups by the experience of purchasing custom-made shirts showed no difference in shirt fitness and shirt wearing methods of ready-made shirts but showed difference in purchase intention of custom-made shirts. This meant that purchase of a custom-made shirt stimulated another purchase. Therefore, shirt brands should focus on the first purchase of custom-made shirts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.556-568
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• 2018

In this study, we surveyed the current status and sizing system of the custom dress shirts sold through online shopping, compared with the sizing system of the ready-made dress shirts. We tried to collect the information needed to make the well fitted dress shirts for middle-aged men from this study. The 17 online custom dress shirt brands were selected and the sales type, sales price, design options and size options of each brand were analyzed. The sizing systems of online custom dress shirt brands were compared with the sizing system of the 10 ready made dress shirt brands. The result showed that online custom dress shirts brands offered a variety of design options and size options to meet the consumers' individuality, taste and demand for good fit. In the ready-made brands, all 10 brands were using the same size notation system. In the same size designation, the difference in product size among the ready-made brands showed a tendency to be smaller than the online custom brands. The online custom brands had the different size notation system among brands. The size notation, the number of size designation and the size interval were different for each brand. Also, in the online custom brands, the product size among brands differed from each other in the same size designation. Therefore, the standardized size information and sizing system for middle-aged men that could be used as criteria when making the product size and pattern design in online custom brands were needed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.679-689
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing & fit of ready-made and online custom dress shirts by surveying middle-aged men aged 40-54 years in order to collect information necessary for making good fit dress shirts. Also, we analyzed whether there were significant differences in the actual wearing of dress shirts according to the stature of middle-aged men. The stature was classified according to KS K 0050 as $R(157{\leq}x<170)$ and $T(170{\leq}x<182)$. The 23 questionnaire items were divided into three categories: 'General purchasing behavior and wearing', 'Fit satisfaction of ready-made dress shirts' and 'Wearing and fit satisfaction of online custom dress shirts'. Through the results of the study, we could understand the actual wearing condition of ready-made and online custom dress shirts. Also, differences in stature groups were found. The significant differences according to the stature groups were found in the interest in fashion, the purchase criteria, the limitation of the shirt size selection due to stature and body shape, shirt size satisfaction, repair experience, dissatisfaction with purchase and the experience of purchasing online custom dress shirts. Suggestions should be made to improve dissatisfaction with stature groups in the ready-made dress shirts. In addition, the study confirmed the consumer demand for the online custom dress shirts. In order to activate the online custom market, the online custom dress shirts company needs to reduce consumer dissatisfaction and improve size suitability.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.97-104
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• 2005

In this research, the fit of basic dresses was examined, by analyzing and comparing the satisfaction of fitness of basic dresses made by the draping method on a custom-made replica body form and that of a basic dress made by the flat pattern method. Basis dresses were produced by the draping method for each 52 subjects using custom-made body forms, and another kind basic dresses for each subjects were produced by the flat pattern method using measurements of body sizes. Both basic dresses received high scores for the satisfaction of fit, but the basic dresses produced by draping method received higher scores. Thus it is expected to produce a more successful fit by draping a basic dress on a custom-made body form. Future research using more subjects might confirm these results. A more concrete analysis through using additional satisfaction tests could be conducted. For example, each subject might also serve as an evaluator to rate her satisfaction of fit wearing each of the two custom-made dresses. Finally, examining various body forms is suggested.

• Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.714-722
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• 2003

Men's clothing has been recently giving higher market shares to the ready-made clothes rather than the custom-tailored clothes. With many active studies on the human body and design, the ready-made clothes win popularity due to their rapid repairing, various design, and cheap prices, though they are not perfect suitable for some people. Therefore the ready-made has a weak point unable to consider all of the individual physical characteristics. However the custom-tailored clothes ate able to make clothing perfectly suitable lot their customers, though they require longer time-taking and expensive costs. In this context, this paper is design and implementation an automatic design edit system to provide a rapid and cheap service for customers on the ground of the custom-tailored clothes. In other words, this paper intended to use computer systems lot rapidly and precisely providing design dependent on the individual physical characteristics including a distorted bodies, types of the leg, and a height of the shoulder. To do so, the paper using not only studies on the human body and the custom-tailored clothes but also technical know-hows planned design for each individual body by LISP language and automatically process the design through CAD system. Consequently, the rapid and precise processing has reduced inventories and production costs, leading to supplying high quality clothes at lower prices.

• 한국HCI학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2008.02a
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• pp.475-480
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• 2008

In this paper, I will propose a Custom-made Suit Production System. The system does not only help the customers to edit and measure their size by creating the landmarks in the 2D human body images which is taken from the camera, but it also visualizes the virtual cloth by using the landmarks and the modeling data of the virtual cloth. In this system is a new technology for the digital and the automation which is not handmade way of using Custom-made Suit industry. It will be generally useful in the various contents of the clothing industry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.55-67
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• 2019

This study analyzed the fabric and product size of the burn patient's custom compression garment and measured the pressure applied by the garment to assess whether proper pressure is being delivered for treatment. The test clothes were presented to the market by body size and commissioned with the same design. The subjects selected four people close to the average body size of men in their 20s determined by 7th Size Korea. The experiment was conducted by wearing a compression suit, performing activities and measuring changes in the pressure of the garment according to changes in posture. The fabric used for the compressive clothing was not ruptured even at 216 kPa, the elasticity recovery rate was measured between 80.5 and 94.5%. The product dimensions of the experimental clothing varied by up to 8cm from brand to brand, requiring the standardization of compression clothing. The experiment showed that four types of compression suit varied in pressure, and the pressure range, excluding the gastric arm (17.9mmHg), was between 2.5-14.1mmHg, which failed to meet the level of pressurization for treatment purposes. The clothing pressure in the chest area dropped when performing movements rather than standing still. This was interpreted to be a result of reduced the adhesion of the compression suit during operation. The peak pressure (31.68mmHg) and the lowest pressure (2.2mmHg) was noted in the scapula, indicating that no pressure was being transmitted on the vertebrae. The pressure of the garment on the right shoulder blade was elevated in a supine position. Because much time is spent laying down, it is necessary for the pattern design to accommodate for the increased clothing pressure on the shoulder blades. Standardization of the level of pressurization for burn patient's custom-made pressure suits for each stage of treatment is urgently required.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.149-154
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• 1992

The objective of this paper is to find out the costume in the era of Practical Science through the books written by Yack-Young Chung. Conclusions are described as follows: 1. A disorder of a class system is to be seen from the correlation between the upper class costume and the lower class costume. 2. He made an effort to develope technics and enlarge the specialist for the revolution of costume system. 3. He stressed the thrift for the revolution of custom through clothing. 4. He insisted that the use of clothing be out of formal courtesy, from the fact he showed his idea for the basic courtesy.