• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.552-563
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• 2019

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

The objective of this study is to analyze the characteristic of a functional design for a commercial outdoor brand jacket based on 3 types of functions : windproof, waterproof, and cold proof. To analyze the design and fabric characteristics of outdoor jackets by function, 903 men's and women's outdoor jacket images were selected from the catalogues during S/S 2009 - F/W 2011 of the 6 brands: The North Face, Columbia Sports Wear, Kolon Sports, K2, Arcteryx and Mont-Bell. These brands were selected based on their high market share and brand awareness of the outdoor brands in Korea. In this study, design elements analysis was conducted as following 8 elements: hood/collar height/central front flap/waistline/pocket location/ventilation for the body part/sleeve patterns/cuff for the sleeve part. Fabrics were analyzed by the frequency of fabric types used in the 3 jacket types. According to the result derived from the analysis of the six brands of outdoor wear jacket design trends by year, detachable hood and a co-use of velcro and elastic bands have been mainly designed for all of windproof, waterproof, and cold proof jacket to all in order to respond quickly to changes in the external environment. For reinforced storage function on trekking, the number of pockets has been gradually growing, and a function was being developed to connect an electronic device to a pocket. The method, result, and collateral observations relevant to each of these phases are described. Outdoor jacket design characteristics were investigated for outdoor brands, which can provide data to suggest more accurate functional design, and satisfy functional design needs. In this regard, this research was significant in the sense that it suggested preliminary data to reconsider competitiveness of the brand products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.165-178
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• 2012

This study researches the form of the Korean jacket point through relics from the Three Kingdoms period that have the traditional Korean style and grace of the Goryeo period as well as the form of the modern Korean jacket starting point. Several conclusions can be drawn from the Korean Image of the Korean jacket that can be classified into types expressed in the jacket style of modern fashion. Therefore, we will analyze traditional elements of Korean beauty through the "Korean image" on how to express it in modern fashion. The purpose of this study is to understand modern design creation and Korean culture. It is important to begin the world through the application of traditional elements to recognize Korean beauty as well as to utilize historical dress based on function and popularity to continue the effort.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.145-162
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• 2019

This study reviewed photos of women's jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women's jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women's jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.120-139
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• 2024

Considering the need for a clothing product design strategy for the sustainable growth of outdoor brands, this study analyzed an outdoor consumer survey applying selected sustainable elements, reflected the results in design planning, suggested prototypes, and presented a design strategy. The consumer survey was conducted from July 19 to July 25, 2022, and 216 respondents were used for analysis. As a result of the outdoor consumer survey analysis of selected sustainable elements, the most preferred outdoor design concept involved the keywords 'zero waste' and 'transformable design' from a sustainable economic perspective. An outer jacket design was then created focusing on these two keywords and a prototype was produced. The SCD (sustainability, consumer, designer) design strategy was presented as a strategy for sustainable growth of outdoor brands, and the key factors of this strategy are as follows: (a) application of sustainable design elements, (b) reflection of consumer opinions on sustainability, (c) designers' sustainable mindset and decisions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.781-792
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• 2015

This study aims to develop a spring/fall motorcycle jacket for quick service transporter. Depending on the results of the previous research, this study produced the tested jacket which was improved in material, pattern, and design. For the tested jacket, 100% polyester fabric excellent in strength, durability and abrasion-resistance was selected as a major material, and Cordura was used as a partial material to improve the strength and abrasion-resistance of the sleeve side lines, elbow and shoulder areas. The retro-reflection material was applied partially in order to improve visibility of the jacket in the night or in a dark place. A total of 7 pockets were composed in the jacket for the sufficient storage spaces. The functional design elements such as the 2-way zipper and the placket at the center front, the action pleats at the upper part of back armholes, the pit-zip at armpit were applied. In addition, the sleeve pattern was bent with the shape of elbow curvature in time of driving and the back length of the jacket was lengthened 4cm. As a result of the appearance assessment, there was a significant difference from the existing jacket in all items but chest size, shoulder width, cuffs circumference, and jacket hemline circumference. In motion adaptability and field activity appropriateness assessments, the assessment grade for all items was found to be commonly higher than that of the existing jacket, and thus, the tested jacket was assessed to be suitable for a motorcycle jacket design for the quick service transporters.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.608-619
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• 2017

In this research, we analyze jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S~2015 F/W to investigate how shape, tailoring component, and design of jackets have changed. Our analysis of 2,493 jackets from the collection shows that the hour-glass silhouette was the most popular among silhouettes and that standard-length was the most popular jacket length. Such jacket shape expresses the natural beauty of human body. Regarding Tailoring Components, our analysis shows that tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which is neither too wide, padded, nor low, were prevalent. The analysis also shows that tailored collar and button closure were the most common. Tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which fit the body outline, allow the silhouette to show natural curves of the human body. As for jacket design, popular colors differed by season, but single-colored jackets prevailed, and woven was the most used material. Since 2000, the most favored form of jacket in women's fashion was a standard-length jacket with an hour-glass silhouette, tight sleeve, natural shoulder line, and tailored collar. This suggests that jackets emphasizing natural curves of the body were favored. Overall, silhouette, length, sleeve, and shoulder line remained consistent while collar and closure varied. This indicates that collar and closure method play a significant role in changes in fashion. Seasonally, elements of shape, tailoring component, and design coexist, but once the shape is determined, the tailoring component and design change in relation to each other.

• Proceedings of the Earthquake Engineering Society of Korea Conference
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• 1999.04a
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• pp.284-291
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• 1999

The reliability analysis is of great importance in their design since offshore towers are high-cost and high-risk structures. The design of platforms in the marine environment depends on results of the dynamic behavior of the structure during earthquakes and storm wave conditions. this paper presents results of an analytical study on evaluating dynamic response of steel jacket modelled by space frame elements. program $\boxDr$OFSPC$\boxUl$for the linear and nonlinear dynamic analysis of steel jacket platform has been developed using FORTRAN 90 programing language through the present study. Free vibration and dynamic behavior of steel jackets under regular and irregular wave and earthquake force are investigated using this program

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.292-303
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• 2011

This research suggested a draft proposal for a smart jacket design, which has applied wearable technologies to provide convenience in daily life. The smart jacket combined with a vest was the casual item for autumn and winter. The heating device was composed of the heating element, battery, controller, electric wire, connector, switch, and charger. A stable electronic conductor fiber of good heating effect with a flexible zigzag form has been selected for the heating element. The lighting device has been made in a way that attaches the LED and its power controller in the same mechanical device. As the result of the wearing test, the heating effect turned out to be effective in the order of: back, both the back and abdomen and only the abdomen. When wearing a smart jacket, the back and abdomen have been selected as favorable body parts for heating. Pockets and hems are selected as the adequate place to attach the LED lighting, and the brightness of LED lighting has turned out to be suitable and useful. Based on the test results, the first draft proposal has attached the heating element only in the back and its controller located in the inside pocket of the vest. In addition, the LED has been attached to the front pocket of the jacket. As to the second draft proposal, heating elements have been placed in the back and the abdomen. Each controller for the heating elements has been placed in the front and inside pocket of vest, and the LED lighting has been attached to the hem of the jacket. The smart jacket combined with a wearable device was assessed by functioning categories. The user showed a high satisfaction in the heating and illuminating function of a smart jacket.

• Steel and Composite Structures
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.209-219
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• 2022

Offshore platforms in seismically active areas must be designed to survive in the face of intense earthquakes without a global structural collapse. This paper scrutinizes the seismic performance of a newly designed and established jacket type offshore platform situated in the entrance of the Gulf of Suez region based on the API-RP2A normalized response spectra during seismic events. A nonlinear finite element model of a typical jacket type offshore platform is constructed taking into consideration the effect of structure-soil-interaction. Soil properties at the site were manipulated to generate the pile lateral soil properties in the form of load deflection curves, based on API-RP2A recommendations. Dynamic characteristics of the offshore platform, the response function, output power spectral density and transfer functions for different elements of the platform are discussed. The joints deflection and acceleration responses demands are presented. It is generally concluded that consideration of the interaction between structure, piles and soil leads to higher deflections and less stresses in platform elements due to soil elasticity, nonlinearity, and damping and leads to a more realistic platform design. The earthquake-based analysis for offshore platform structure is essential for the safe design and operation of offshore platforms.