• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.304-311
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• 2018

This research used a questionnaire to provide basic data for the design of dressing form that enables the manufacture of senior menswear with an improved fit to match the dissatisfaction with the fit of male suits over the 50s. We used 132 questionnaires as analytical data. The results were: The item 'purchasing method of formal suits' showed that 95.5% purchased ready-to-wear jackets. The 'abdominal obesity type' and 'trunk waist type' had a high frequency of 'complaints about the size of the ready-to-wear jacket'. They choose their suits and wear them directly from the store. It is expected that senior males will complain about ready-to-wear formal suits due to the increase in girth item than normal type due to change of body shape since they consider size to also be important when purchasing suits. The most important part of the body when purchasing suits is the shoulder area, followed by the front width and back width of the fit. As for the degree of recognition of suit size, 38.1% said that they know the size and 'Suit size is hard to understand'. As a result of dissatisfaction with formal dressing, the items of 'Neck wide of get loose', 'Drag line of back neck', 'Not fit of front opening', 'Not fit of shoulder slope' and 'dissatisfaction'. Therefore, it is salient to establish suit fitting system and size system for senior men.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.804-812
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• 2017

This study builds a database that can be reflected in the production of dress form for fitting by typifying the upper body shape of a senior male. This study analyzed the 3D shape data of 405 persons of the 5th Size Korea. The age range is from 50s 210 persons and 60s 205 persons. Analysis items to identify upper body shape of senior males consisted of 51 items. 3D shape data were also measured using a Geomagic Design ${\times}$ program for the analysis of the upper body of the senior male required for the dress form of this study. The reference point was based on the Size Korea 2010 3D measurement standard and created points (Back-protrusion) on shape data. As a result of the senior men type, the senior men's body type was classified into four types:1. Overall, the upper body is a large body type and the most undistorted overall body type 2. Width / Thickness Flatness is the largest and vertical length factor is the smallest abdominal obesity type 3. Severe flexion of the back part type 4. The upper body is small and the scapular bending is severe. The elderly body type showed a high distribution ratio in the type with severe flexion. The development of a dress form that reflects the cause of the finery issue can improve the fit of ready-to-wear.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.708-715
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• 2016

This study researched the sizing system of dress form for apparel manufacturing in the domestic market. It aims to be used as basic data for the development of a dress form that could be used by manufacturers of senior men's clothing. Research focused on the sizes presented on the homepages of 17 dress form manufacturers in the USA, France, Japan, and Korea. Body measurement was made for senior men in their 50's over men (n=134). Six items were measured by the 'Standard body measurement of Size Korea'. The type of dress form in the domestic market can be classified into half-body type (upper body type and lower body type), torso, and whole-body type; in addition, each type is divided into upper arm, arm, crotch, and thigh. Korean dress form manufacturers produced/sold diverse kinds (size 7-9) for women; however, they used large/small sizes or product sizes for men without defining sizes. The chest size (93-105cm) has not been standardized while the rates of waist circumference, hip circumference and shoulder length (in accordance with the chest size) were all different. Global dress form brands manufactured reflecting body dimensions by the state organization USA ASTM. Japan JIS. For this reason, most domestic clothing businesses depend on imported dress forms. Especially, there were no dress forms for senior men. With the growing market for seniors, it would be necessary to produce senior dress forms for clothing production that reflect the body shapes and sizes of seniors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.722-732
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• 2006

The pattern making of the tight-fitting collars which often used in diving suits, dance wear, or cycle wear has not been fully established. To develop tight-fitting collar pattern directly from 3D images from the representative somatotypes, dressforms developed by Jaeun Jung were used. The 3D scan data of the four male dressforms were obtained using Exyma-1200. Triangle Simplification and the Runge-Kutta method were applied to reduce the 3D scan data points and to make the segmented triangular patches in a plane from 3D data. As results, apparent differences between the tight-fitting collar patterns obtained from the 3D scan data and the ordinary 2D collar patterns were found around the center back line. The curvatures of the center back line were higher in all types of the tight-fitting collar than in the ordinary collar pattern. Relative differences in the shape of collar lines among four representative Korean men were reported. To fit the curved shape of the back neckline, 1.8 cm should be reduced from the upper neckline in average. We suggested the direct pattern making method for the 2D tight-fitting collar patterns considering the 3D shape of various types of men's dressform.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.11
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• pp.1174-1185
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• 2012

This study develops tight-fitting upper clothing to measure electrocardiography (ECG) data. Taking into consideration the elasticity of the clothing, we made 4 experimental clothes by applying to each a weft reduction rate of 40%, 50%, 60%, and 70%. The 4 experimental clothes were used to measure resting ECG, exercise ECG, and post-exercise ECG for 4 men in their 20s. We compared clothing pressures using sensors on the human body and on a dressform. Subjective wear sensations of the 4 experimental clothes were evaluated using a subjective 7-point scale (with 7 being most excellent). We measured clothing pressures by using the air type pressure (AMI 3037-2) for upper and lower chest sensors in the developed tight-fitting upper clothing. The lower chest sensor showed that the clothing pressure on a human body and dressform changed consistently as the weft reduction rate decreased. The upper chest sensor showed inconsistent changes in clothing pressure as the weft reduction rate decreased. The wearing-test result for preliminary subjects showed that the lower chest sensor was more stable than the upper chest sensor; therefore, we inserted the sensor at the lower chest position before performing ECG. Except for Subject 4, the resting ECGs were stably measured for 3 subjects (Subject 1, Subject 2, and Subject 3) in all the developed clothes (A clothing, B clothing, C clothing, and D clothing). However, D clothing showed stable ECG values after exercise. The results of the experiment showed that we could measure ECG without difficulty using clothes with a weft reduction rate of 40% when the movement was not intense; however, tight-fitting upper clothing with a weft reduction rate of 70% was necessary to measure exercise ECG and post-exercise ECG values.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.642-649
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• 2010

This study was designed to generate briefs pattern for women in their twenties using 3D parametric body model. 151 women in their 20's were random sampled and measured using Martine's anthropometry. And one subject was chosen as the representative subject for 3D scanning. Parametric model was generated of using CATIA P3, Unigraphics NX4.0, Rapidform 2006. And the 3D surface of parametric body model was flattened onto the 2D plane. 3 downscale ratios(0%, 10%, 15%) were applied to generated pattern to figure out what downscale ratio was suitable to make briefs with stretch fabric. 4 kinds of experimental briefs were made with stretch fabrics(0%, 10%, 15% downscale) and worn on the dressform. Subjective evaluation on the appearance was done and the data was analyzed by ANOVA with post-hoc test. Briefs pattern was generated through the process of flattening the parametric surface and arranging the patches to make briefs pattern by dart manipulation. The different ration of outline and area between 3D surface and 2D pattern were 0.22% and 0.09% respectively. It showed that a parametric model could provide a desirable pattern with minute size error. The results of subjective evaluation on the appearance of 4 experimental briefs showed that stretch briefs with 15% downscale ratio was evaluated most highly in most items. Findings imply that it is feasible to apply 3D parametric model to generate patterns for various items considering various fabric properties.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.963-973
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• 2008

Clothing pressure is closely connected with the degree of comfort of an athlete's tight-fitting garments. Therefore, the construction of sports garments is very important to the wearer's athletic performance. In this study, the fundamental relationship between the reduction rates of stretch fabrics and clothing pressure was explored with the aim of improving clothing comfort and obtaining a systematic pattern reduction for women's tight-fitting bodysuits. A women's bodysuit pattern was obtained by the draping method using a dressform. The basic pattern was divided into four parts and changed into reduced pattems according to the amount of fabric stretch determined by ASTM D2594. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 20 locations (shoulder, 9 locations; bust, 5; and armhole, 6). Among the 15 garments tested, the mean pressure of the A1 bodysuit was 4.60 $gf/cm^2$, and that of the C5 bodysuit was 22.98 $gf/cm^2$. The mean pressures of the bodysuits with reduction rates of 10% and 20% were below 10 $gf/cm^2$, while those of suits with reduction rates of 30%,40%, and 50% (except C5) were below 20 $gf/cm^2$. The pressure at the shoulder was 9.50$\sim$32.24 $gf/cm^2$, which was higher than that at the bust (3.34$\sim$24.56 $gf/cm^2$) and the armhole (0.95$\sim$12.15 $gf/cm^2$). The mean pressures of the 15 bodysuits were divided into five groups using analysis of variance (ANOVA), and were found to be significantly different (p<0.001). Regression analysis afforded the following expression: mean pressure ($gf/cm^2$) = 1.607 + 0.369[reduction rate (%)].