• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1477-1485
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• 2011

Dyeability and colorfastness of the blended knits of cotton/rayon (40/60; C/R) and wool/tencel (10/90; W/T) are examined using the natural dyestuff ($Pinux^{TM}$) manufactured from Pinus radiata pine bark extract. In addition, pre-treatments (such as bleaching, mercerization and cationization) are performed to improve dyeability and colorfastness. The $Pinux^{TM}$ powder dyestuffs produced by Pinux Co., Ltd. are used as dyestuffs and their properties are examined for dyeing concentration (0.5-2% (owb)), dyeing time (30-120 minutes) and dyeing temperature (30-$90^{\circ}C$). Dyeability is evaluated with K/S value at 400nm, which is the maximum absorption wavelength for $Pinux^{TM}$. The results show the dyeability of W/T sample containing protein fiber with $Pinux^{TM}$ is superior to all cellulose fiber C/R. A concentration of dyestuff greater than 1.5% (owb), dyeing time 120 minutes and dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ are the most optimized conditions. It shows that the dyeability of C/R and W/T samples are high in the condition of an acid-dyeing bath and that dyeability highly declined in alkaline bath due to the instability of the proanthocyanidin pigment. After analyzing the effect of bleaching, mercerizing and cationizing (as pre-treatments on dyeability) it was concluded that the dyeability of the C/R sample was enhanced by mercerization but no significant effect by cationization. However, the simultaneous treatment of cationizing and dyeing resulted in far improved dyeability compared to dyeing after cationizing pre-treatment. As for the W/T sample, the effect of cationization was more prominent than the C/R sample. Colorfastness to color changes in the control W/T sample was higher than that of C/R's level 1-2, and it increased to Level 2 when bleaching pre-treatment was given and when a simultaneous cationizing treatment was adopted to the dyeing process. Colorfastness to light in W/T control sample resulted in Level 3 and further increased to an excellent Level of 4 with bleaching and simultaneous cationizing during dyeing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1300-1306
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• 2003

Cotton fibers were treated, with 1, 2, 3, 4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) which is formaldehyde-free reagent to impart durable press performance. The dyeability, dyeing rate, and diffusion coefficient, of BTCA treated cottons were compared to prove the changes of pore size structure using direct dyes and disperse dyes. Diffusion coefficients of BTCA treated cotton fibers were determined at acidic conditions to figure out the effect of swelling. Since the dyeability of BTCA treated cotton fibers dyed with direct dyes were reduced, it is considered that the dyeability to direct dyes is related to the quantity of residual large pores. But, the dyeability to disperse dyes were increased due to the less reduction of small pore sizes and the increase of hydrophobicity in BTCA treated cotton cellulose. The dyeability to direct dye and disperse dye were decreased more at acidic conditions than at neutral conditions. It seemed that the swelling of pores in the fiber were inhibited.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.141-148
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• 2004

This study examines the dyeability of fabrics in relation to dyeing temperature, time, concentration, and the number of repeated dyeings. For this study, at first we extracted natural dyes from the peel of C.umshiu mandarin, which is fast as a dye and considered as recycling agricultural wastes. Additionally, it represents the image of Jeju Island. Then, we dyed cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics with the extracted dyes. The findings of this study are as follows. 1) Dyed cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics with the extract of C.umshiu mandarin peel are generally yellow. 2) Wool, nylon, silk, and cotton, in this order, are of good dyeability; Wool fabrics have the highest dyeability and cotton fabrics have the lowest. The dyeabilty of cotton fabrics was not improved even after dyeing in different conditions. 3) Colorfastness with washing, rubbing and perspiration are all good, while colorfastness with light is poor. 4) Higher dyeing concentration makes better dyeability. 5) Dyeability is enhanced as the dyeing temperature increases, while the dyeability of silk and nylon is relatively good even at low temperatures. 6) Looking at dyeability according to dyeing time, the longer the dyeing time, the better the dyeablility. Sixty minutes of dyeing time is appropriate to dye fabrics. 7) With an increase in the number of repeated dyeings, increased dyeability is obtaihed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.88-95
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• 2016

This paper investigated to the effectiveness of an eco-friendly method for oiling cow leather. After leather was lac-dyed with a vegetable leather processing solution and a mordant, olive oil was used to treat the leather. Changes in surface color and dyeability, light fastness, rubbing fastness, and water fastness were measured. An increase in dyeability caused by the mordant appeared in all the samples. The dyeability of leatger treated with Cu-mordant was higher than that treated with Fe-mordant and Al-mordant, and the three times greater than when no mordant was used. Dyeability after oiling more than doubled compare with before oiling. An increase in dyeability by oiling was highe greater than doubled compared with before oiling. The non-mordant-treated samples exhibited a 5-fold increase in dyeability, and the other samples showed more than two times more dyeability than did non-oiled samples. A color difference of more than 20.0-fold appeared in all samples, and the differences in lightness and chroma were greater than were the differences in other color factors. The colors after oiling were measured R, P, and PB. Light fastness improved in all samples after oiling, and all of the measurements were reduced in the order of Fe-mordant> Cu-mordant> Al-mordant ${\geq}$non mordant.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.590-597
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• 2013

This study examined the change in the dyeability of natural dyes on cotton fabrics by a PEI (polyethyleneimine) pretreatment instead of mordants. Cotton fabrics were treated with PEI and the changes in the dyeability were shown by measuring the amount of PEI on cotton fabrics. Samples treated with PEI were dyed with two natural polychromatic dyes with a different affinity to cotton fibers: Alizarin Red S and Curcumin. The changes in dyeability by three variables (time, temperature and concentration of dyes) on cotton fabrics were analyzed by the K/S value to define optimum dyeing conditions. Subsequently, the PEI treatment improved the dyeability of cotton fabrics with both dyes of low and high affinity to cotton fibers. Thus, PEI could be a suitable heavy metal mordant replacement.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.128-140
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• 2016

In this study, dyeability of Urtica Dioica L. extract, which is relatively less studied, was measured. The extract of this plant was used to dye cellulose and protein fiber to check its usage as a natural green dye. Three different methods were used to produce extract. Dried Urtica Dioica L. was extracted with 100% ethanol, 50% ethanol with 50% distilled water and 100% distilled water. Then dyeing solution was obtained by blending with distilled water at 1-to-1 ratio. The maximum dyeability was obtained when 100% ethanol extract of dried Urtica Dioica L. used to dye fabrics at 60 degrees celsius for 60 minutes without mordant treatment. Cotton, rayon, wool and silk were dyed and dyeability for each fiber was measured for color difference value then compared to its control. The results show that dyeability of rayon and dyeability of wool are stronger, and that when color position for each mordant is measured, color difference is most diverse on cotton with pre-mordant treatment. Color fastness to wash, perspiration and rubbing crockmeter were superb, but color fastness to light was low, therefore, additional study on this is needed to improve. Urtica Dioica L. is now expected to be used practically as green color dye as well as medicinally and edible.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.799-802
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• 2004

The dyeability of the cotton fabric with Brassica campestris extract was investigated. The colorant was extracted with methanol. Cotton fabrics were dyed at various conditions such as temperatures, concentrations, dyed times, and mordanting methods. The maximum wavelength of extract was 421nm. The highest K/S value was showed at 200% dye concentration at $60^{\circ}C$, 45 minutes. As the effect of dyed temperature and mordanting on dyeability was not great, the Brassica campestris was one-color dyestuff.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.100-111
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• 2022

After the corona pandemic, when consumers choose clothes, the issue of sustainability has become a more important selection criterion. The eco-friendly functional fiber used in the study is a smartcell, which has functions such as UV protection, decomposition of harmful substances, deodorization, antibacterial and biodegradation. This eco-friendly functional fiber was dyed using five kinds of natural dyes to examine the color change according to dyeability and dyeing conditions. As natural dyes, gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, lac, and indigo were used. For comparison with smartcell, rayon, a cellulose regenerated fiber, and wool fiber, a protein fiber, were dyed under the same conditions to compare dyeability and color. The study results are as follows. It was found that smartcell had superior dyeability compared to rayon and wool in gardenia dye and showed lower dyeability than wool when dyeing turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but showed superior or similar dyeability than rayon. In case of indigo dyeing, the dyeability of smartcell was the best when dyed once, but it was found that smartcell had a lower effect on repeated dyeing compared to wool or rayon. Therefore, smartcell has superior dyeability compared to rayon fiber in gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyeing, and in case of indigo dyeing, it is suitable for light dyeing. When smartcell is produced as textile fashion products, natural dyeing is actively introduced and commercialized, and it is hoped that this study can be a reference material.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2001

To improve the dyeability and colorfastness of cotton and silk fabric dyed with natural dye of safflower, cotton and silk fabrics were pre-treated with different mordants such as halliic-acid, alum, brine and tannic-acid. Also, to investigate the effect of finishing treatment of fabrics on dyeability, cotton was treated with chitosan and mercerized before dyeing. L, a, b, ΔE and colorfastness(light, Laundry, sweat) of each samples were measured and compared. Mordant treatment didn't improved significantly dyeability and colorfastness on cotton and silk. But, on cotton mercerization and chitosan treatment improved dyeability and colorfastness. To compare the efficiency of extracted dye and Powered dye, extracted red dye of safflower prepared as powder. Cotton and silk were dyed with dyeing solution which made with powdered dye according to different concentration. Efficiency of powdered dye was found out lower than extracted dye solution.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.608-615
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability and functional properties of dyed fabric with the extract of Myrica rubra rind. For this purpose, the ultraviolet and visible spectra of the bark extracts were investigated. The dyeing temperature, dyeing time, mordant type, mordanting order, mordant concentration and dyeability were investigated. The color fastness based on washing, dry-cleaning, rubbing and light were evaluated by the types of Myrica rubra rind extract used. In addition, the deodorization and antibacterial activity were measured, and the functionality of the silk fabric dyed with the extract of the Myrica rubra rind was evaluated. The result shows that the color strength of the dye was excellent when the Myrica rubra rind was dyed at $80^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. The mordant dye color strength was high in the order of Fe mordant> Cu mordant> Al mordant. The dyeability of Al and Cu mordant was high during pre-mordanting compared to Fe mordant, and the dyeability of Fe mordant was high during post-mordanting than Cu and Al mordant. The deodorant property of the dyed fabric stained with the Myrica rubra rind extract was 92.4% and that of antibacterial property was 99.9% for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae bacteria respectively.