• Title/Summary/Keyword: ease allowances

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Survey on Use of Basic Bodice Blocks at Domestic Men's apparel Companies and Comparative Study on Men's Bodice Blocks (국내(國內) 남성복(男性服) 업체(業體)의 기본원형(基本元型) 사용현황(使用現況)과 남성복(男性服) 상의원형(上衣元型) 비교(比較))

  • Li, Eun-Ji;Shim, Boo-Ja
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.4
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    • pp.120-134
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    • 2007
  • The usage of basic bodice blocks at men's apparel companies is investigated and the domestic and international men's upper bodice blocks are compared to find directions of research on development of bodice basic blocks. The following conclusions are found in this study. 1. The survey shows that basic bodice blocks are not used at men's apparel companies although all the respondents have good knowledge on bodice basic blocks. They responded that basic bodice blocks for representative body figures of each age category or of each country would help comparative studies on domestic and international basic bodice blocks and development of exporting apparel products. Also, they expected the utilization of men's basic bodice blocks both as education materials and in studies of design, of body figures, and of basic blocks for industry. 2. The comparative study on men's bodice blocks shows that waist circumference, hip circumference, neck circumference, height, and shoulder length, in addition to the minimal essential size items such as chest circumference and center back length, are used in most basic bodice blocks. The size formulae of each basic block are compared to find how the sizes are determined. For center back length, either measured back length or a certain proportion of height is used. For front and back interscyes, chest circumference is used in most basic bodice blocks. Either measured size, or a certain proportion of height or chest circumference is used for back height. The averaged ease allowances of basic bodice blocks are 3.2 cm for chest circumference, 10.8 cm for waist circumference, 1.2 cm for front interscye, 0.1 cm for back interscye, 0.2cm for shoulder length, and 0 cm for center back length. However, body blocks for different types of clothes have different ease allowances. Shirt basic blocks have ease allowances of 6.1 cm for chest circumference, 13.7 cm for waist circumference, 1.4 cm for front interscye, 0.6 cm for back interscye, 1.2 cm for shoulder length, and 1.8 cm for center back length. On the other hand, jacket basic blocks have ease allowances of 8.8 cm for chest circumference, 16 cm for waist circumference, 1.1 cm for front interscye, 1.4 cm for back interscye, 1.1 cm for shoulder length, and 0.8 cm for center back length.

Development of small petite-size women's jackets in their 20s to 30s (20~30대 small petite-size 여성을 위한 재킷 제품개발)

  • Yujin Lee;Jeongah Jang
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.31 no.5
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    • pp.586-606
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    • 2023
  • This study initiated research aligned with the body positivity movement, aiming to explore size diversity for groups facing relative size discrimination due to their deviation from average body types. Using KS adult women's apparel dimensions as a reference, jackets were developed for women in their 20s to 30s who belong to the small petite-size (S[P]) category, which is characterized by a height under 155cm (petite) and a bust-circumference from 72cm to less than 82cm (small). Using 3D virtual-fitting, we conducted experiment-pattern production and refinement and subsequent real-fitting evaluations by participants to objectively validate aesthetics and comfort. The study's findings are as follows: First, utilizing a 3D virtual-fitting program by identifying 'creases' and 'garment pressure points' in the jacket appearance, experiment patterns were refined and real jackets were produced. This approach addressed challenges in recruiting participants with specific body types and allowed for efficient research in terms of cost and time. Second, through real-fitting evaluations, basic-fit and slim-fit jackets labeled as <79-88-150> were developed for the S(P) size. we presented 'size spec' and 'ease allowance' for jackets by waist fit. Both fits received positive evaluations with approximately 53.5cm sleeve length, and 11.7cm shoulder length. The ease allowances for the basic-fit jacket were approximately 9.2cm at the bust circumference, 12.8cm at the waist circumference, and 6cm at the hip circumference. Similarly, the slim-fit jacket exhibited ease allowances of about 4.8cm at the bust circumference, 4cm at the waist circumference, and 4cm at the hip circumference, receiving positive evaluations for aesthetics and comfort.

Comparative Evaluation Test of Current Bodice Patterns for Male Adults in Their 20's (20대 남성의 상의 원형 비교 평가)

  • Choi, Hyunok;Yi, Kyong-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.20 no.5
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    • pp.45-59
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    • 2016
  • This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

Evaluation of the Serving Sizes of Packaged Processed Food in Korea

  • Chang, Soon-Ok
    • Nutritional Sciences
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.41-46
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    • 2002
  • This study was carried out to evaluate the adequacy of serving sizes of those packaged processed foods in Korea which are designed to provids one meal or snack for one person. There is a lack of data on reference serving sizes which are essential components in the nutrition information provided on food labels. After compiling the average weight of packaged processed foods available in the market in Korea, a questionnaire was formulated to evaluate the adequacy of the serving sizes on 56 packaged processed food items of 188products using 25 female university students as a consumer group. The results showed that 65.5% of the packaged processed foods had adequate serving sizes. In general, current packaged sizes for bread and carbonated drinks were found to be too large. The proposed reference serving sizes in this research appear to be somewhat different from the ones suggested by the Korean Nutrition Society s $7^{th}$ Recommended Dietary Allowances for Koreans and by the Food and Drug Administration (USFDA) in the U.S. The serving sizes suggested by the USFDA appear to be too large for beverages and too small for snack foods when these are applied to the Korean population. It is suggested that the size of beverages in the Korean market should be reduced, and smaller sub-packets of snacks (each for one serving) should be packaged in a larger pack, for ease of use of nutrition information by consumers as well as for the reduction of food waste. In the future, other representative population groups should be included in the determination of reference serving sizes.