• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.145-152
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• 1996

In this study, the technique to evaluate the extreme design wave height of certain return period is developed from the given measured or hindcasted sea state data of concerned area for limited period. By using the order statistics and Monte Carlo Simulation method, the best fit probability distribution function with proper parameters describing the given wave height data is chosen, from which extreme design wave height can be predicted by extrapolation to the desired return period. The fitness and the confidence limit of the chosen probability function are also discussed. Application calculation is carried out for the wave height data given by applying the Wilson wave model theory to major 50 typhoon wind data affecting Korean South coast during the year from 1938 to 1987.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.367-372
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• 2006

If the sea is narrowband, the Rayleigh distribution introduced by Longuet-Higgins can be used for the individual wave height distribution. However the Rayleigh distribution over-predicts the probability of high waves. Longuet-Higgins introduced alternative form of the Rayleigh distribution with an empirical constant. The wave height distribution can be fitted well by one parameter Rayleigh distribution with a proper choice of the empirical constant. The empirical constant is the ratio of the significant wave height based the time domain analysis and the spectral analysis. Here we examine wave data which contain extreme waves. Once again we confirmed that extreme wave height distribution can be modelled well by a modified Rayleigh distribution.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.88-93
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• 1994

This study is concerned with an analytic derivation of the probability density function applicable for wave heights in finite water depth using two different methods. As the first method of the study, a probability density function is developed by applying a series of polynomials which is orthogonal with respect to Rayleigh probability density function. The newly derived probability density function is compared with the histogram constructed from wave data obtained in finite water depth which indicate strong non-Gaussian characteristics. Although the probability density represents the histogram very well. it has negative density at large values. Although the magnitude of the negative density is small. it negates the use of the distribution function fer estimating extreme values. As the second method of the study, a probability density function of wave height is developed by applying the maximum entropy method. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the wave height distribution in shallow water, and appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights in finite water depth. However, a functional relationship between the probability distribution and the non-Gaussian characteristics of the data cannot be obtained by applying the maximum entropy method.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.258-265
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• 2015

Over the last 20 years, freak waves have attracted many researchers because of their unexpected behaviors and damages on offshore structures and vessels in the ocean and coastal waters. Despite many researches on the causes, mechanisms and occurrence of freak waves, we have not reached consensus on the results of the researches. This paper presents the occurrence probability of freak waves based on the analysis of wave records measured at coastal waters of Donghae harbor in the East Sea. Three freak waves were found which satisfied conditions of m and $H_S{\geq}2.5m$ and $H_m/H_S{\geq}2$. The occurrence probabilities of freak waves were estimated from extreme distributions by Mori, Rayleigh and Ahn, and found to be on the orders of O($10^{-1}$), O($10^{-2}$), and O($10^{-3}$), respectively. The occurrence probabilities of freak waves measured from waves records were estimated between O($10^{-2}$) and O($10^{-3}$), which were located between predictions by Rayleigh and Ahn's extreme probability distributions. However, we need more analysis of wave records obtained from diverse field conditions in order to verify the accuracy of the estimation of occurrence probability of freak waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.130-141
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• 2004

For a coastal or harbor structure design, one of the most important environmental factors is the appropriate design wave condition. Especially, the information of deepwater wave height distribution is essential for reliability design. In this paper, a set of deep water wave data obtained from KORDI(2003) were analyzed for extreme wave heights. These wave data at 67 stations off the Korean coast from 1979 to 1998 were arranged in the 16 directions. The probability distributions considered in this research were the Weibull, the Gumbel, the Log-pearson Type-III, and Lognormal distribution. For each of these distributions, three parameter estimation methods, i.e. the method of moments, maximum likelihood and probability weighted moments, were applied. Chi-square and Kolmogorov-Smirnov goodness-of-fit tests were performed, and the assumed distribution was accepted at the confidence level 95%. Gumbel distribution which best fits to the 67 station was selected as the most probable parent distribution, and optimally estimated parameters and 50 year design wave heights were presented.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.121-126
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• 2006

Modern Ocean wave forecasting systems predict the mean sea state, as characterized by the wave spectrum, in a box of size ${\Delta}x{\Delta}y$ surrounding a grid point at location x. It is shown that this approach also allows the determination of deviations from the mean sea state, i.e. the probability distribution function of the surface elevation. Hence, ocean wave forecasting may provide valuable information on extreme sea states.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.245-251
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• 2005

When we design coastal and harbol facilities deepwater design wave and wind speed are the important design parameters. Especially, the analysis of these informations is a vital step for the point of disaster prevention. In this study, we made and an extreme value analysis using a series of deep water significant wave data arranged in the 16 direction and supplied by KORDI real-time wave information system ,and the wind data gained from Wan-Do whether Station 1978-2003. The probability distributions considered in this characteristic analysis were the Weibull, the Gumbel, the Log-Pearson Type III, the Normal, the Lognormal, and the Gamma distribution. The parameter for each distribution was estimated by three methods, i.e. the method of moments, the maximum likelihood, and the method of probability weight moments. Furthermore, probability distributions for the extreme data had been selected by using Chi-square and Kolmogorov-Smirnov test within significant level of 5%, i,e. 95% reliance level. From this study we found that Gumbel distribution is the most proper model for the deep water design wave height off the southwest coast of Korea. However the result shows that the proper distribution made for the selected site is varied in each extreme data set.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.120-125
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• 2010

A Monte-Carlo simulation method is proposed which can take uncertainties of scale and location parameters of Gumbel distribution into account straightforwardly in evaluating significant design wave heights with respect to return periods. The uncertainties of design wave heights may directly depend on the amounts of uncertainties of scale parameter and those distributions may be followed by Gumbel distribution. In case of that the expected values of maximum significant wave height during lifetime of structures are considered to be the design wave heights, more uncertainties are happened than in those evaluated according to return periods with encounter probability concepts. In addition, reliability analyses on the armor units are carried out to investigate into the effects of the uncertainties of design wave heights on the probability of failure. The failure probabilities of armor units to 5% damage level for 50 return periods are evaluated and compared according to the methods of taking uncertainties of design wave heights into account. It is found that the probabilities of failure may be distributed into wide ranges of bounds when the uncertainties of design wave heights are assumed to be same as those of annual maximum significant wave heights.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.204-210
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• 1998

This paper presents the development of the probability density function applicable for wave heights (peak-to-trough excursions) in finite water depth including shallow water depth. The probability distribution applicable to wave heights of a non-Gaussian random process is derived based on the concept of the maximum entropy method. When wave heights are limited by breaking wave heights (or water depth) and only first and second moments of wave heights are given, the probability density function developed is closed form and expressed in terms of wave parameters such as $H_m$(mean wave height), $H_{rms}$(root-mean-square wave height), $H_b$(breaking wave height). When higher than third moment of wave heights are given, it is necessary to solve the system of nonlinear integral equations numerically using Newton-Raphson method to obtain the parameters of probability density function which is maximizing the entropy function. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the histogram of wave heights in finite water depth obtained during storm. The probability density function of wave heights developed using maximum entropy method appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights for the design of coastal structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.274-279
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• 2015

Wave data acquired over eleven years near Sokcho Harbor located in the central area of the east coast were analyzed using spectral method and wave-by-wave analysis method and its major wave characteristics were examined. Significant wave heights were found to be high in winter and low in summer, and peak periods were also found to be long in winter and short in summer. The maximum significant wave height observed was 8.95 m caused by the East Sea twister. The distributional pattern of the significant wave heights and peak periods were both fitted better by Kernel distribution function than by Generalized Gamma distribution function and Generalized Extreme Value distribution function. The wave data were compiled to subdivide the wave height into intervals for each month, and the cumulative occurrence rates of wave heights were calculated to be utilized for the design and construction works in nearby construction works.