• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.277-287
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• 2019

This study analyzes the online issues of design innovation by a fashion creative director. The study selected fashion house Gucci as the main subject and analyzed social media posts. As for study methods, a social matrix program Textom 2.0 collected 13,014 nouns and adjectives using 'Gucci Collection' as a search keyword from Naver Blogs from March to August 2014 and from March to August 2016. Design related issues were derived through semantic network analysis using Ucinet6 and the NetDraw program. The results of the keyword frequency analysis showed that social media user interest for the Gucci collection increased based on the rapid increase in the number of posts from 1,064 to 2,126 after changing the fashion creative director. The results of visualization of semantic network analysis and content analysis also showed that the main issues related to the Gucci collection design changed after the replacement of the fashion creative director. The study found that issues formed around the product information worn by celebrities for promotion purposes during the 2014 period; however, during the 2016 period, issues were formed around 'vintage' and 'retro' runway concepts with design styles related to Alessandro Michele, the new creative director.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.173-182
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• 2022

As consumption pattern and fashion communication become digitalized, fashion houses are being inherited by creative directors owing to their expanding role. While the roles and responsibilities of creative directors have been changing extensively along with the dynamic nature of the fashion industry, researches on creative directions have mostly focused on luxury brands. This study examined the creative direction of John Galliano for Maison Margiela, a conceptual brand to be maintained by a creative director. To analyze this, the authors established a creative direction analysis model constituting five elements: brand heritage, trend, democratization, brand status, and persona, drawing on the luxury brand architecture by Kapferer and Bastien. Thus, Galliano has maintained anonymity as a heritage of Maison Margiela, expanding the existing Replica lines, and introduced fashion shows focusing on current issues or social phenomena. As a democratization strategy, he directed the brand to associate with more popular brands or expanded diffusion lines to secure broader customer base, while demonstrating couturier-like showmanship in the media and establishing his own persona. His direction for Maison Margiela recreates and expands brand heritage by transforming the brand philosophy. Therefore the new creative direction communicates with the wider public and diversifies customer bases through democratization strategies, while building Galliano's own persona.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.547-558
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• 2017

Recently, the replacement of creative directors of fashion brands has gained attention from both researchers and practitioners. This study selected three representative fashion brands whose creative directors were replaced in the last 10 years, and analyzed the changed characteristics of their magazine advertisements. Literature studies and case studies were conducted as research methods. The subjects of the case studies were three fashion brands - 'Saint Laurent', 'Louis Vuitton', and 'Gucci'. Magazine advertisements were divided into two aspects: fashion photo elements and layout. The former can be classified into three components: the presence of a specific situation, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models. The latter can be classified into two components: the logo style and pictorial color. In terms of fashion photo elements, the presence of a specific situation in magazine advertisements appeared differently, depending on whether creative directors focus on the brand's own identity or on their own concept of each season. Also, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models changed depending on the situation. In terms of layout, there is no dramatic change in their logo styles, for they want to preserve their long tradition. And the more a creative director pursues younger sensibility, the more black and white color effect are added towards magazine advertisements. This study has its significance in that it confirms the replacement of creative directors has considerable influence on fashion brands' images and their magazine advertisements.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.423-438
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• 2021

This study compared and analyzed the direction of Louis Vuitton creative directors Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh. Accordingly, 485 photos(251 Kim Jones, 234 Virgil Abloh) were collected. For data analysis, statistical and content analyses were combined. First, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Kim Jones, complex colors, colorful barrels, tone-in-tone color schemes, H-line, plain fabrics, soft materials, heterogeneous material combinations, casual style. Second, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Virgil Abloh, achromatic color, colorful tone, tone-on-tone color scheme, I-line, plain fabric, soft material, similar material combination, casual style. There were significant differences in color, tone, color scheme, silhouette, pattern, material type, material combination, fashion image, detail, trimming, top and bottom that differed in the creative directors' design direction. Therefore, it appears that Kim Jones has been directing the luxurious and unique men's wear through H-line, coat and slim pants, colorful color combination, soft material, heterogeneous material combination, plain fabric, and chic active sensibility. Meanwhile, Virgil Abloh is directing men's wear in a loose and trendy street mood through the I-line, jacket and wide pants, achromatic color, soft material, plain fabric, similar material combinations, and soft and sophisticated modern sensibility.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.83-98
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• 2022

This study identified the characteristics of the subculture aspects that led to the success of luxury brands and analyzed the implications of those aspects. For this, semantic analysis in a socio-cultural context was performed. Additionally, this study took the theoretical background, the change in subculture and post-subculture, the digital youth generation, and the change in the meaning of subculture style into consideration. The subculture style aspect and its meaning in luxury fashion brands were analyzed as follows: First, there are challenges that betray the legitimacy or values of luxury brands. Through this, the brand gained recognition and increased sales, and the designer gained a reputation as an innovative creative director. It can be seen that more successful branding was promoted by securing a more subcultured fandom. Second, by combining subculture image fragments, these brands cater to the diverse tastes of a myriad of subcultures. This maximizes commercial profits. Third, most promotional marketing activities are collaborative and done digitally, which allows for a wider customer base, but the difference is in digital capabilities. Limited editions or application use on social networks can act as another driver. It is said that the distinction in high-priced luxury brands is not only driven by economic power but also by sub-cultural capital and digital ability.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.14-35
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• 2021

This study compares and analyzes the designs of Burberry creative directors, Christopher Bailey and Riccardo Tisci. For this purpose, 322 photographs (176 Christopher Bailey and 146 Riccardo Tisci) were collected and the data analysis criteria were classified into color, shape, material, decoration, item, and fashion style. With respect to the data analysis method, statistical analysis and content analysis were combined. First, the design characteristics of Christopher Bailey top and bottom combined bright tone, tone-in-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combination, and smart casual appeared very frequently. Second, the design characteristics of Riccardo Tisci top and bottom combined were monotone, tone-on-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combinations, and street culture. Third, the design differences between creative directors were significantly different in color, tone, color arrangement, pattern, material type, material combination, detail, top and bottom items, and fashion style. Burberry men's wear maintains Burberry's traditional design identity with achromatic colors, beige-based colors, and beige checks. Christopher Bailey's design direction is characterized by modernity in a casual mood that emphasizes practicality. The design direction of Riccardo Tisci is characterized by a wide gap between images in a semi-formal style that emphasizes Burberry's tradition and a free-spirited casual style.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.709-725
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• 2021

The study focused on the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Carl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel and Fendi until his recent death. The range of the study was from the 2017 S/S Collection to the 2019 F/W Collection, which collected a total of 767 fashion photographs, including 483 Chanel, 284 Fendi, with tops, bottoms and dresses at VOGUE (https://www.vogue.com). According to the data analysis criteria organized based on prior research and related literature, it was classified in the order of form, color, material, pattern, decoration, fashion image, item and coordination, and content analysis was conducted based on statistical analysis. Overall, the design characteristics of the Chanel collection, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, were rectangle form, tone in tone coloring, combination of identical materials, geometric patterns, and classical images as the main design characteristics of the Chanel collection. The design characteristics shown in the Fendi collection directed by Karl Lagerfeld were rectangle form, tone in tone coloration, hard material combination, abstract pattern, and total coordination. Comparing the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, is as follows. Chanel and Fendi's designs show a lot of rectangle form, tone-in-tone colors, hard-materials and combination of the same material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.306-325
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• 2017

This study analyzed how a time-honored fashion house has harmonized its design identity over a sustained period with its successor designers. Givenchy Fashion House was selected as the subject of this study. This study focused on literary research, analyzed design features and fashion images based on photos of Huber de Givenchy's collections (1952-1995) and collections by Riccardo Tisci (2006-2016), the creative director of the house. Photos were gathered from books and fashion websites; in addition design was analyzed based on a review by experts on collections. The results are as follows. Hubert de Givenchy won fame for simplified modern elegance that presented a new beauty for modern women and reached the peak of his career from the 1950s to the 1960s. Riccardo Tisci respected the couture tradition of the Givenchy Fashion House. He successfully revitalized the house by simultaneously emphasizing his personal design features and reinterpreting the design identity as well as tried to establish new house signatures. In conclusion, the original design identity of the Givenchy Fashion House is based on Hubert de Givenchy's timeless modern elegance that has been reformed by Riccardo Tisci as romantic goth and sensual elegance.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.139-150
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• 2012

This study aims to understand the importance of stage costumes, examine and analyze their theoretical ideas in order to propose new designs and support the studies and advances of stage costumes in play. The writer operated and produced the costume designs of Shakespeare's play, Measure for Measure as a costume director, which was played on September 16 to 17, 2011 at the Haneul Theater in the National Theater of Korea and on September 3, 2011 at the Jinnam Munye Theater. The study was followed by 1. Proposing a new modern point of view of the design of the traditional dresses in 16th to 17th centuries. 2. Expressing a symbolism based on personality, role and nature of characters in the play by a creative and modern image of the dress in color, line, and silhouette, which are basic factors of a clothes design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.44-59
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• 2020

This investigated the romanticism of Alessandro Michele who leads new trends in fashion industry as a creative director for Gucci. In this study, 307 women's wears exhibited by Alessandro Michele for 3 years in Milan collections from 2015 F/W to 2017 F/W are categorized according to the aesthetic characteristics of romanticism. Additionally, the five aesthetic features of Gucci's fashion design are an addition since the appearance of abnormally large size under the influence of postmodernism. The results based on the study purpose are as follows. First, the decoration makes the garments stand out by using fancy materials, splendid multicolor combination, applique embroidery and three-dimensional objects. Second, exotic style is expressed from an occidental perspective using Chinese traditional fashion or textiles, and exotic accessories. Thirdly, sensuality is manifested using see-through materials to emphasize women's breasts, or the beautiful and sexual expression of women's body. Fourth, the new creations are designed by combining contrasting elements, such as disparate materials and, different genders. Furthermore, traditional cultures like baroque and rococo, and the 1970's vintage looks inspires the creation of retro-style. Finally, the appearance of extremely large shoulders, silhouettes, and details of the human body can be explained with expansive tendency. The aforementioned results further suggest that diverse characteristics are expressed via reflection of contemporary art and trends.