• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.252-271
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.159-173
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• 2021

This study attempted to investigate the perspective of the skirts of male and female students by analyzing the differences in image evaluation according to the constituent elements (type, length, and wearing method) of men's skirt designs in modern fashion. The study included 109 male and female college students from Generation Z residing or whose life center was in Gwangju Metropolitan City, to evaluate 12 images depicting types of men's skirts. First, the constituent image evaluation factors according to the constituent design elements of men's skirts were analyzed. Second, the differences in each constituent image evaluation factor based on the constituent design elements of men's skirt designs were analyzed. Third, the gender-based differences in image evaluation by men and women concerning the constituent design elements of men's skirt designs were analyzed. The analysis included relatively more women than men. The results of the image recognition dimension included the following categories: "attractive image," "evaluable image," "gender image," and "personality image." In modern fashion, skirts are used to express the diverse personalities of men's fashion. Thus, they are used beyond the stereotype of women's clothing, toward expanding and diversifying the image of men's clothing through mixing and creating a dichotomous image of men and women. It can be used as a design that suggests a gender-fluid image.