• 복식
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• 제55권7호
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• pp.142-155
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• 2005

This study shows historical Gagye(가계) The process of change and Characteristics through analysis on the old documents, related papers, and visual data, and represents its meaning in Korean Clothing history through analysis on originality of Korean Gagye(가계) style. Gagye(가계) is the cubic hair style which add other accessories on hair and is divided into two; Gagye(가계) and Chegye(체계) according to its material, role, and function. And Korean Gagye(가계) has been transformed suited to the times and showed various features according to pattern, wearing, and decoration aspect. In its style aspect, Korean Gagye(가계) style shows Hwangye type, Sseugae type, Gogye type, Dagye type, and Braided & coiled hair type. Each shows historical features. In its Wearing aspect, Gagye(가계) style shows Wearing ornamental hairpin on the head, Wearing Rag Ribbon on the head, and Attaching (Detaching) Wearing. And in its Decoration aspect, Gagye(가계) style shows decoration with accessories, one with flower arrangement, and one with shaking.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.622-631
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to know variety winding ways for scarf and to know the trends of scarf expression methods with seeing how to affect these ways on recent fashion. Investigating for scarf's concept and feature through theory records and looking for variety scarf expression ways were done for this study. And then The photo data of fashion magazines from s/s 2000 to s/s 2005, focusing on the divided scarf expressions, were analyzed. The frequencies of scarf expression are like this; decorating on the neck($60\%$), decoration on the shoulders($18\%$), decorating on the head($10\%$), etc($9\%$), using for accessaries($3\%$). Decorating on the necks is shown lasting ways. Also recently the methods breaking the established concepts - the mixing with two ways and the pratical using scarf' as a part of clothes - have a tendency to increase steady.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.210-214
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• 2009

Cave 79 of Kumtura grottoes, is the best preserved cave, which has an important meaning for research on Uighur costume. This paper is intended to analyze the costume characteristics of female donors in Cave 79 by comparing image materials between Dunhuang murals and other murals in Xinjiang province. In Cave 79, female donor wears red robe with tight sleeve, whose collar is crescent-shaped decorated. Two different opinions are upheld for this decoration. One regards this as the turn-down collar, while the other believes this as decoration on V-neckline. Red robe is quite common in female donors of Xinjiang and Dunhuang murals and a female in fresco is wearing a crown in a triangle red headwear style, regarded as red silk and drooping at head. Female donors wear an extra coat, kame hair clasp, red jacket, light-colored high-waist skirt with a long-tail waistband, and tangerine Pibo (silk ribbon) with scattered small flowers. All these costume styles are commonly-used by Han females. The kame headwear is also the common ornament for Han females and the female's hairstyle is in cone shape on head by a white kame. Current costumes are similar but not completely same.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.47-69
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to inquire the hair, head-dress and clothing(upper clothing: Veil, Samkaksika, Sash) of Bodhisattvas in Dunhuang Mogaoku of the period from Northern Liang Dynasty(421∼439) to Tang Dynasty(618∼907). The method of this figure and the change of clothing form : 'Dunhuang Mogaoku'1st Volume-4th Volume. The Bodhisattvas' hair style are somehat various ; A part in her hair, Suibal, Gae, Sakbal. A part in Bodhisattvas's hair is observed from Northern Liang Dynasty to Sui Dynasty. But Suibal had been continuous succeeded. Meanwhile, in the periods of Sui and Tand Dynasty, there were the hair styles whose ends were curled up. It is called Eulle Meor-ee. Especially, in Tang Dynasty various styles of Gae were appeared. Doogun was observed from Northern Wei to Tang Dynasty. There were three kinds of head-dress; Samsikkwan(having 3 decoration), Bokwan and Jungmeunkwan(appeared in Tang Dynasty). Meanwhile, Sash let was become more and more decorative. The Upper clothing can be classify into Veil, Samkaksika, Sash, etc. Veil were observed in every period but X shaped one was form Northern Wei and U shaped one was from Northern Zhou Dynasty. After the period of Sui Dynasty U shaped Veil become prevalent. Samkaksika was observed for the first time in Northern Zhou Dynasty. Cutted sam-kaksika was appeared in Sui Dynasty and succeeded to Tang Dynasty. Poncho tyed Samkaksika was also observed in Tang Dynasty. In Westhern Wei Dynasty. daesupo was used into outter garment, which us that chinese influence was deep tell. Sash showed up in Tang Dynasty and it is used for Veil for the whole period of the Dynasty. But using sash for veil was formally hanged on going the lated period of Tang Dynasty. We can observe the sun-moon decoration and the wings of a bird decoration at the Bokwan, Veil, Samkaksika and Sash, etc. It is was the influendce of Sasan Per-sia and India. I will fill up the insufficency of this study wity continous research of ornament(Muktahara) and skirt of Bodhisattva and deeper inquiry of the relationship around the many countries.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.925-933
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• 2009

This research was carried out by analyzing a form and composition in baseball cap targeting 97 marketing products, and we have typified it by frequency analysis. We have carried out comparing and wearing test between comparative pattern and the most preferred three products of sports brand, fashion brand A, and fashion brand B (flex fit). And also, in order to provide basic indices for developing new pattern, we have carried out analysis of variance. 1. As a result of analyzing a form in baseball cap, the most general pattern type for crown is central cutting with six pieces. In a cap, a basic type with no decoration was the most general. In the size adjustment and decoration, belt type and embroidery type (front or side embroidery of the crown) was the most common, respectively. 2. As a result of comparing and analyzing six-piece typed crown pattern, the comparative pattern was the same and symmetric in size and form of three patterns in front, side, and back. However, the patterns of marketing products of three brands were different in size and form of three patterns in front, side, and back. The patterns of sports brand were the largest in crown height and width, thus it was good at providing activity and motion. The patterns of fashion brand A were the shortest in the crown length and well-curved in front pattern, so it was well-matched with head shape. The patterns of fashion brand B were well-described back side of head since its convex and long patterns in the back head. 3. As a result of wearing test by five-point Likert scale among brand, pattern of fashion brand B outperformed the others since it was well-matched with head shape. In the cap, pattern of fashion brand A is the most preferred which was 7.5 cm of length and 18cm of width.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.712-722
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Hair ornaments in old tombs of the Three Kingdom States. Hair ornaments was divided into Combs, Rod-like hairpins, Chae[;釵], Boyo[;步搖] Combs were 2 type in according to the tooth's space, wide-tooth comb[;梳] and fine-tooth comb(;比). The general name of two type was called Jeul(;櫛). Combs were excavated from the only ancient Silla tombs. Rod-like hairpins were called Gha(叉) or Jam(:簪). They were found in most of the old tombs in Goauryeo, Baekje, ancient Silla tombs. The style was L-type and embellished circular head-type. Chae(;釵) was understand Cha(:叉) that had two tongs. Chae(:釵) was generally U-type and rarely hairtweezers -type. Jakchae(;爵釵) was understand distinctive Chae(;釵) hanged with phoenix. This type was excavated from the only Baekje tombs of King of Muryeong. Boyo(;步搖) was originally a hair decoration of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the Wijin period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Dang Dynasty, hair ornaments were considered indicators of status and wealth. Boyo(;步搖) hair accessory features of which are suspended from a elaborate hairpin structure. Such pieces were designed to sway as their wearer walked. The bequest was not found, but we catch the Boyo(; 步搖) that was women'head decoration in painting of old tombs in Goguryeo.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제14호
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• pp.159-186
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• 2012

Julio Romano decorated the facade of his house in Mantua with a statue of Mercury to give expressions to his ideas on painting. Hereby the painter from Rome could show his home to the world as that of a painter. To be concrete, Mercury was the planet god to which visual artists belonged, and so was basically related to visual arts. In his role to deliver diverse features of art works Mercury could also convey concepts and emotions expressed in a picture to the viewer. The power of a painting to arouse certain emotions or move the mind of the viewer was further connected to the role of Mercury as the guide of the human soul. This function again related the Roman god to the characteristic of a portrait to present absent persons to the viewer. Above the statue of Mercury, a Lucian head of the god is seen, so that they together form the central axis of the facade. This seems to emphasize that the theme of the facade decoration was the powerful persuasive forces of eloquence. The two masks on the left could then refer to sources of eloquence, I.e. various beautiful expressions of a language and its generative process. On the other hand, the masks on the right could represent consequences of eloquence, for instance, prudence, evil effects which come about to imprudent listeners, and other influences on listeners. Finally, it would be useful to remind us of a line from On Architecture by Leon Battista Alberti. According to the humanist architect parts of a building which are seen from the outside, like a facade, should be appropriately designed, since the decoration of a house could play a significant role to enhance the fame and honor of the family and its fatherland. This theory of Alberti could have provided the foundation to the facade decoration of the Casa Pippi which proudly presented the profession of painting to the public in visual form.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2010

This thesis is about "manggon" that holds down man's top knot hair and its accessaries "pungjam", "kwanja". manggon was seen first time in the mural of Donwhang kae won chon bo during T'ang period (713-756). The "Tu Aek Ra" manggon shown in this mural would be the origin and beginning of maggon's usage. Also the "Sha" that was placed on top of the hair for decoration purpose is believed to be a former form of "manggon" Before the short hair cut was enforced, wearing the "kwan"(head gear) was considered as an impotant etiguette. Thus the head gear was treasured and the manggon which was the most essential piece to cover down the hair before to put on the head gear was regarded as the most important piece. However, since the manggon was tied very tightly around the forehead, manggon caused some sickness. From my private collections of man's head gears and ornament, 121 items were selected and used for analysis and the followings were found: 1. Pungjam was divided into 8 categories according to its shape and a research was made on its unique structural characteristic on each categories. 2. Kwanja's material and design that were used are all in accordance to the historical recordings.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.356-375
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics and cultural values of the headdress among Chinese minorities with diverse ethnic cultures, and to provide various data on the design of clothing accessories. Theoretical considerations about ethnic minorities were addressed through literature and prior research, with data being collected using literature and websites. The results are as follows. First, the most common type of headdress is the horizontal type, which includes the head style, headband, and head scarf. The second most common is the cylinder type, which is a headdress with variations in the shape of a round hat, and has is evident among various minorities. Third, the pagoda type is decorated with ornaments mounted on top of a round shape. Fourth, the square crown type is a piece of wood as a material for a form of the material and for a variety of jewelry and the production of up to meet the women's head of the jewelry. Fifth, head belt-type ornaments consist of a headband and fancy bead ornaments from the bottom of the head. Mongol women usually wear an exaggerated form of this type. Sixth, the head cover type is a head decoration influenced by the dress code of Muslim women. Seventh is the disc type of crown shape worn by the Dai. Next, the ogival type is a cone-shaped headdress hat most commonly seen as head ornament hat among the Dai. Lastly, the sailboat type is the most exaggerated form of hair ornaments found among ethnic minorities.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제16권
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• pp.14-31
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• 2015

고령 지산동 고분군 39호분에서 출토된 장식대도(M310)는 손잡이 끝의 둥근 고리 안에 용의 머리를 장식한 환두대도로 금과 은을 활용하여 금장, 은장, 도금, 투조, 조금의 기술로 제작되었다. 장식대도는 손잡이 금구의 변형과 손상, 도신의 결실, 부식 등이 발생하여 보존처리를 진행하였다. 보존처리는 표면 이물질 및 부식물 제거, 재질의 안정화처리, 강화 처리 순으로 진행하였으며 보존처리와 병행하여 유물의 재질 및 제작기법을 조사하였다. 조사 결과 환두 내 용장식은 아말감도금기법으로 표면이 장식되었고 병두금구는 동제지판에 얇은 금판을 덧씌워 장식되었다. 병판은 은제판을 사격자문으로 투조하여 원통형으로 만들었으며 대도의 칼은 외날의 철제이다. 초구금구 역시 동제지판에 얇은 금판을 덧씌워 장식한 것으로 확인되었다.