• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.65-71
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• 1991

Many investigations of wave deformation without currents have been carried out experimentally and theoretically but, studies treating the effect of longshore current on the wave deformation are few. It is thus necessary to evaluate the effect of longshore current on the wave deformation after breaking. In the paper the wave height attenuation. the wave direction and the variation of mean water level are calculated in which effects of longshore current are involved. To assess the effect of longshore current on the wave deformation, factors above with longshore current are compared with them without longshore current by using calculated results.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.17
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• pp.277-289
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• 1997

The numerical model for prediction of longshore current with set-up/down effect on a plane beach is developed using the longshore component of the depth-integrated momentum balance equation. To predict the longshore current, the wave height model should first be formulated because the longshore current depends on the wave height directly. Two wave model, regular wave model and random wave model, are developed based on the energy flux balance equation. Also, the numerical model estimating the set-up inside the shoreline is developed using both the on-offshore momentum equation and the moving boundary technique. The numerical models are verified by the analytical solution, and compared with laboratory data. It is found from the comparison that developed models may be predicted accurately the longshore current with set-up/down effect on a plane beach.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.23 no.11
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• pp.1801-1805
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• 2014

Longshore current is main transportation mean causing movement of bed load and suspended particle in coastal waters, and effective measurement method and suitable equipment for shallow water coastal environment where is frequently exposed to atmosphere. Measurement equipment for longshore drift was designed and miniature model was applied to Gyeongpo beach in May and June, 2014. The equipment consists of three main elements, spheroid outer casing, spheroid inner casing, observation module equipped with GPS. Gyroscope principle was applied to observation module, and GPS receiver always can be directed upwards. Miniature models were installed along Gyeonpo beach, and it was well to track the flow of longshore current. This research described the design and function of the equipment and results of field experiments.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.108-115
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• 1991

This paper aims at the elucidation of the characteristics of longshore current profile after wave breaking. Wave breakers are always accompanied by complex turbulent process, wave energy losess occur and the mean water level also varies due to the gradient of radiation stress. These with other factors result in the development of longshore currents. Longshore currents have relations to the alongshore sand transport and to the diffusion of contaminants in nearshore region, thus the understanding and elucidation of them are very important from the engineering point of view. Using the calculated results, the factors such as lateral mixing cofficients, bed shear stress. wave angle. wave steepness and bottom slope. which are influencing the longshore current profile. are examined. Also, by comparing the results of longshore currents with the experimental data obtained by other investigators, the procedure proposed in the present study is shown to be valid.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.15-20
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• 2007

The harbor siltation by longshore sediment transports has become a serious problem on the East Coast of Korea. A reasonable prediction of the longshore sediment rate is important to approach the siltation problem effectively. In the recently developed 1-line model, the empirical constants of the sediment transport formula, which include the absolute quantity of sediment transport rate and the spatial distribution of breaking wave height by wave deformation, are treated as calibration parameters. Since these constants should be determined by the very long-term shoreline data, the longshore sediment rates are much more reasonable values. The method was applied to Hupo Beach, which has experienced heavy siltation. The authors also discuss long-term shoreline change using aerial photos and the observed wave-induced current patterns. According to the result, the SW-direction sediment transport rate was $146,892m^3/year$, and the NE direction was $2,694,450m^3/year$ at Hupo Beach for the last 11 years. The siltation in Hupo Harbor might be affected by the NE-direction sediment transport from Hupo Beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2001

Wave-induced currents drive nearshore transport processes, and hence an accurate understanding of wave-current interaction is required for proper management of coastal zone. This paper presents details of an adaptive quadtree grid based numerical model of the coupled wave climate and depth-averaged current field. The model accounts for wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, mixing processes, bottom friction effects, and movement of land-water interface at the shoreline. The wave period- and depth-averaged governing equations arc discrctized explicitly by means of an Adarns¬Bashforth second-order finite difference technique on adaptive hierarchical staggered quadtree grids. Results from the numerical model are in reasonable agreement with the laboratory data of longshore current generated by oblique waves on a plane beach (Visser 1980, 1991).

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.11-19
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• 1986

This study aims at the elucidation of the distribution of longshore currents after wave breaking. Longshore currents have relations to the beach process and dispersion of contaminants in the nearshore region, thus the understanding of its. mechanism is very important. In the present study, using the electromagnetic current meter, the water particle velocity is measured in the 3-dimensional wave field and Eulerian mean velocity is obtained. At the same time, from the dispersion of tracer, the Lagrangian mean velocity is also obtained. It is observed that the longshore currents were confined within the surf zone and the maximum value of them exists in the surf zone. The longshore currents were considered to be constant toward the depth and we obtained the similar distribution of longshore currents between the measured value and the theoretical ones by Longuet-Higgins model.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.589-594
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• 1997

A total of 24 surface sediment samples collected from coastal region and fronting of sea cliff on Cape Cod In southeastern Massachusetts, were analyzed to Investigate the sediment transport mechanism. According to the result of grainsize analysis, the overall trend of g.k size decreases from the north(Wood End Beach) to the south(Nauset Light Beachy. The coarser materials tend to be deposited at the foreshore than at the backshore. Especially gavel content(%) Is very high in northern beaches. The lavel fraction tended to concentrate at the toe of the beach. In addition to gravel. the beach and nearshore bar also tended to be deposite of very coarse sand and the Inner fraction accumulate in the offshore bar, Grainsize analyses of sediment Indicates that the coarsest sands Including gravel accumulate In the beach and nearshore bar, the finer fraction winnowed out by wave action to be deposited In the offshore bar. The beach and nearshore bar sands and gavel are subsequently transported laterally by the wave-driven longshore drift, and finally they come to rest in the distal end of Provincetown Hook. The faller offshore sands are trnasported laterally to the south by net southward-directed longshore current.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.3 s.29
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• pp.75-85
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• 1998

A finite difference model for predicting time-dependent, wave-induced nearshore current is studied. The model includes wave refraction, wave-current interaction, bottom friction and wind effect. This model iteratively solved the linear the linear set of conservation of both mass and momentum, which were time averaged (over one wave period) and depth integrated, for mean velocities and free surface displacement. Numerical simulations of nearshore current under oblique wave attack, and for wave and wind induced current on a longshore periodic beach are carried out. Longshore velocities tend to zero in some distances outside the breaker line. And the peak velocity is shifted shoreward at the breaker line. The results represent the general characteristics of the nearshore current induced by wave.