• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.203-214
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• 1997

The neck is the human body is closely con-nected with the life and properties of keeping warm as one of the opening part in clothes. In ancient times it was put on necklace for the protection of neck and in Rome it was worn muffler called focale for the protection of neck throat. in addition cravat directly originated in necktie today was primarily worn for the protection of soldier's neck and has been turned into decorative purpose until today. As the ornament is developed to vari-ous kinds of form the neck decoration is changed and grown again and again. Therefore this thesis studies history of the neckwear and various the symbolic factor. The first factor is the social. The neckwear shows the social position class and status and does social mutual interaction as conversation starters. The second factor is the mental It express individuality fondness attitude and is felt to be indignity by being forced to be worn. The third factor is the political. it shows political tendency by indicating the royal sign or part's sign in necktie like the French royal-ist's green muffler The forth factor is the man's sexual. I expresses wearing stock being brave symbol-izing independence. The sixth factor is the traditional. It is worn with appearing traditionand custom and one of cultural movements. The seventh factor is the ideological. It symbolizes the freedom of suffragettes and emancipation of woman. The social factor is the most extensive among them. The neckwear is various in the way of expression like its kinds and is generalized, It functions as a independent part of clothes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.81-96
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• 2006

This study aimed to investigate the sociocultural phenomena which affected to clothing change in 1650-1900 and to examine the features of men's necktie in the western art. For this study, information about historic neckwear is obtained from the visual evidence of painted or engraved portraits, contemporary written sources. The covered area of this study was Europe mainly England and France. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Investigating the sociocultural phenomena which affect to clothing change through 1650-1900 and analysis of men's clothing and appearance. 2. Finding the changing characteristics of neckties including it's different types, shapes, knots, colors and materials and analyzing similarities and differences of neckties by the times. 3. Examining necktie as one of important and representative icons of male gender identity. The results of the study was as follows: 1. In 1660-1900, men's fashion was simplified in color and detail due to the influence of practical Puritanism and matured civil culture. And British men's fashion spreaded throughout whole European countries and get popularity. 2. In 1650-1720, there were band, cravat and steinkirk. And expecially cravatier, a expert custodian of cravats, was appeared in that period. In 1720-1800, there were stock, solitaire and cravat. In 1800-1850, neckwear were popularized and got various sizes and types up to shape and size of chemise collars. Black stock, scarf cravat and shawl cravat were popular and terms of 'necktie' were used for an certain neckcloth shape. And abundant literature for necktie were published thanks to the development of printing technology in that period. In 1851-1900, the leady-made neckties were spreaded and there were changes in shape, length, knot of necktie up to V-zone formed with shirt's collars and vest types. Neckwear was gradually evolving through four distinct styles, bow tie, scarf or neckerchief, Ascot and four-in-hand. 3. After the mid-l7th Century, as civil culture matured and splendid and extravagant colorful men's wear disappeared, British men's fashion spreaded throughout whole European countries and got popularity. The necktie become an essential ornamental accessory of men's fashion and one of important and representative icons of male gender identity.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.13-23
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• 1986

We investigate several theories on how the cravate came into being and eventually evoved into the modern day necktie. Among the different possibilities, the most plausible case is the introduction of the neckwear by croatioan soldiers into France near the beginning of the seventeenth century. During seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, the beautiful costumes and extravagant embroideries using the expensive laces, were common oractices among the high society of the royal court, and the cravate evolved into a favorite ornament. While it was emerging as a beautiful part of man's dress in France and the continent, Charles II brought the cravate to England where it became the central part of the dandy's dress. The cravate became not only a part of dress but a subject for a solemn ceremony. George brummell was the most famous English dandy associated with this ritual and he is also credited as the father of modern men's dress. In england, Brummell became famous for his clean cravate was used as the expressionis of political opinions. They were san cravate, muscadins and incroyables, for example. The classic style of male dress in the nineteenth century was due to Brummell and the severe unadorned silhouette he started has changed very little to became the present day male dress.

• Journal of the East Asian Society of Dietary Life
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.43-51
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• 1991

To examine the royal party procedures of Chosun-Dynasty, the authors analyzed“Jin Chan Eui Gue”, which is a historical record, published in 1887(King Go-Jong), on the party of royal family in the Man Kyong Jeon. The results obtained from the study were as follows. 1. The Main party and the evening party in the Man Kyong Jeon were the drinking ceremony in celebration of eigthieth birthday of the King Go-Jong's grandmother. 2. The following day party and the following evening party in the Man Kyong Jeon were the drinking ceremony for wishing the King Go-Jong good health. 3. The next following day party and the next following evening party in the Man Kyong Jeon were the drinking ceremony for wishing the Crown Prince good health. 4. In the following day party and the next following day party, there were procedures distributing flowers among the attendants. 5. A lot of flowers were used in the royal party of Man Kyong Jeon:Distributed flowers(1550), Dining table flowers(5519), Table flowers(2) ad Neckwear flowers(7015).