• Title/Summary/Keyword: neo-deconstruction

Search Result 6, Processing Time 0.029 seconds

Characteristics of neo-deconstruction in Feng Chen Wang's Chinese fashion collection (펑첸왕 중국 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 신-해체주의 특성)

  • Anna Ren;Younhee Lee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
    • /
    • v.31 no.6
    • /
    • pp.806-823
    • /
    • 2023
  • The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the develop- ment of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction's aesthetic features termed 'traditional fusion', 'positive playfulness', 'open communication', and 'multiple inclusiveness'. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang's fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, 'traditional fusion' combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, 'positive playfulness' promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, 'open communication' emphasizes design that combines practicality and creati- vity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, 'multiple inclusiveness' breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.

Characteristics of Neo-deconstruction expressed in the Jacquemus fashion collection (자크뮈스 패션 컬렉션에 표현된 신-해체주의 특성)

  • Yoo, Song Joo;Lee, Younhee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
    • /
    • v.23 no.4
    • /
    • pp.39-56
    • /
    • 2021
  • The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

A Study on the Development of a Women's Fashion Design Prototype Applying the Characteristics of Neo-Deconstructivist Fashion

  • Zhongyue Lyu;Young Jae Lee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
    • /
    • v.27 no.6
    • /
    • pp.124-146
    • /
    • 2023
  • This study analyzes the characteristics of each element of neo-deconstructivist fashion design and examines fashion expression methods and techniques. This study combines theoretical research and case analysis to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of neo-deconstructivist fashion and the expressive characteristics of neo-deconstructivist fashion. Through analysis of previous research, the aesthetic characteristics of neo-deconstructivism were derived as inclusiveness, playfulness, communication, and intertextuality. Inclusivity in fashion refers to including various people, body types, aesthetics, and cultural backgrounds in the scope of design, and does not limit the scope of clothing design based on individual differences such as body type or gender. Playfulness is a neo-deconstructive fashion brand that combines exaggerated makeup, vibrant colors, intriguing designs, and imaginative fashion shows to spread upbeat and playful ideas. Communication in neo-deconstructivist fashion demonstrates communication through the use of creative themes and items that reflect consumers' needs through design and the consumer's fashion presentation method. Through the mutual quotation of aspects like traits, status, T.P.O., and materials that can reveal opposing texts, intertextuality emerged as a tendency to break up binary oppositions or break away from genres. The expressive qualities of neo-deconstructivist fashion design were examined and applied to the creation of innovative fashion design through examination of the case's silhouette, color, and material. Six sets of women's clothing were designed and produced. The results of this study can be used as basic data for the development of neo-deconstructivist fashion design, and are expected to provide a wide range of inspiration for fashion design ideas.

Deconstruction of the Street Fashion in 1990s -Focus on S/S pret-a-porter Collections- (1990년대 스트리트 패션에 나타난 해체주의 경향 -S/S 프레타포르테 콜렉션을 중심으로-)

  • 이영재;박민여
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
    • /
    • v.24 no.8
    • /
    • pp.1155-1166
    • /
    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate deconstructive trends of the street fashion in the 1990s spring/summer(S/S) Collections. This study was carried out by both the qualitative analysis and the quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the important street fashion was grouped and deconstruction was sampling of category. In the quantitative analysis, it took frequency, percentage and $\chi$$^2$-test. The results of the quantitative analysis are as follows: 1. \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" has been most popular street fashion through the 1990s. The next is \"Sportive Casual\". 2. According to \"deconstructive inner meanings\", there are significant differences between the S/S street fashion in the 1990s. In \"N대-Mods/Jazz\" style, \"Sportive Casual style\" and \"Technos/Cyber-punk\" style, \"Intertextuality\" is high. In \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" style, \"Exhibition of Otherness\" is high. 3. According to the \"deconstructive outer description\", there are also significant differences between the S/S street fashion in the 1990s. But, In \"Neo-Mods/Jazz\" style, \"Not Included\" is high, which means the \"N대-Mods/Jazz\" isnt related to the \"deconstructive outer description\". In \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" style, \"Poverty.outworn\" is high. In \"Sportive Casual\", \"Exposure\" is high. In the \"Technos/Cyber-punk\", \"Destruction.Division\" is high.

  • PDF

A study of the destructive styles from Contemporary Paintings - Focused on distinguishing enmity-destruction and self-destruction - (현대회화에서 드러난 해체의 형식론에 관한 연구 -타의적 해체와 자의적 해체의 성격규정을 중심으로-)

  • Park Ki-Woong
    • Journal of Science of Art and Design
    • /
    • v.7
    • /
    • pp.5-63
    • /
    • 2005
  • Generally, the meanings of destruction are related in the meaning of demolition, breakdown, into fragments ... and so on, and the similar meanings are twist, crush, demolish, split, cut, into pieces , break up ... etc. Further, it has related in the cruelty and destructive heart which are linked with orgy, Sadism, Necrophilia and so on. The meanings are also expressed by the initial , which are deprivation, deface, defame, deform, degrade, delegitimize, denounce , deride, destroy, devalue, as well as debase, debunk, declaim, declassify, decry, delete, denigrate, deprecate, despise or detract ...and so on. Dario Gamboni has discussed the meaning in his book as two categories Iconoclasm and Vandalism. And the similar meanings could be found in the words which has the initial of , like abase, abate, abhor, abjure, abolish, abridge, abuse ...and so on. Even though the distinct meanings of Iconoclasm and Vandalism, it is not easy to distinguish clearly between the differences when the results are accomplished in contemporary paintings because of the similarity of the results. In korean vocabulary there are no similar words to distinguish between the meanings of destruction and deconstruction, and the deconstruction is not recorded in the general dictionaries. However the meaning of is diminishing, separation, contrast and so on. So the unification of the word as do-construction is not construct, minus construction, reverse construction. And Vincent Ditch explained that there are the meaning of destroy the text. From Jacques Derrida, the deconstruction strategy is to criticise the world of traditional metaphysics and logocentrism, and not to reconstruire the philosophical meaning of texts but $d\'{e}construire$ them. And Saussure emphasized that the signifers could have more meaning that there can be more signified in traditional texts in the art. as a result, deconstruction is explained that there are many signified meanings in a signifer. In this thesis , from using the meanings of destruction and deconstruction, to distinguish the expressive skills in contemporary art works are arising. Therefore, special methods which are linked in the destruction styles are selected. As a result, the two different purposes of destruction is arising, one is enmity destruction and the other is self destruction another word, auto destruction or destruction to create The enmity destruction can be distinguished by the two category Iconoclasm and Vandalism. They come from the moment of different historical aspect is arising and want to attack the Icon or masterpiece this concept is from the study of John Philips and especially iconoclasm is linked with religious and artistic heart, but Vandalism is come from the political attack. Sometime, this distinguish is not clearly arising, because the two aspects are co-related in the attack. As a result, firstly, the Iconoclastic controversy had arisen in the methods of Dadaism which has developed by Man Ray, Francis Picabia and Marcel Duchamp. They want to attack the pre-established master-pieces and painting spaces, and they had 'non-artistic attitude' not to be art. Since 1980, the German artist Anselm Kiefer adapted the methods and made them his special skills so he had tried to paint tough brush strokes and draw with hugh pallette image line and fire and water images , they can be the image attack as the Iconoclasm. secondly, the model of vandalism is to be done by hammer, drill, canon and so on. the method is to attack the content of painting. Further, the object of destruction is bound by cords and iron lings to demolish or to declare the authority of pre-statues; it symbolize the pre-authority is gone already. Self-destruction based paintings are clearly different in the purpose of approaching the art work. First of all, they can be auto-destruction, creative destruction and metamorphosis destruction, which is linked with the skill the material aspect and basic stature, and sign destruction or signifier destruction, which is link with the inner meaning destruction that is considered as the Semiotical destruction in post-modern paintings. Since 1960, the auto destruction is based on the method of firing, melting, grinding and similar skills, which is linked with Neo-Dada and reverse-assemblage. Metamorphosis destruction is strongly linked with the basic inner heart price and quality, so it can be resulted in the changedness of expectation and recognition. Tony Cragg has developed the skills to metamorphose the wood as stone or iron as cloth and stone as sponge and rubber and so on. The researcher has developed the same style in the series of since 2003. The other self-destructive methods are found in the skill of sign destruction. In the methods the meaning of the art is not fixed as one or two, but is developed multi-meaning and differ from original starting situation, so Jacques Derrida called the difference meaning in deconstruction. It is the destruction of textes. These methods are accomplished by David Salle, Francesco Clemente, and recently Tracy Emin, who has developed the attacking heart in the spectators' emotion. Sometime in the method of self-destruction, it is based on horror and shock, the method is explored by Demian Hirst and Jakes and Dinos Chapman. Their destructive styles stimulate ambivalent heart and destroy original sign of girl and animals.

  • PDF

Installation Art In Indonesian Contemporary Art; A Quest For Medium and Social Spaces (인도네시아 현대미술에 있어서의 설치미술 - 미디엄과 사회적 공간을 위한 탐색)

  • Kusmara, A. Rikrik
    • The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
    • /
    • no.5
    • /
    • pp.217-229
    • /
    • 2007
  • Many historical research and facet about modern art in Indonesia which formulating background of contemporary Indonesian Art. Indonesian art critic Sanento Yuliman states that Modern art has been rapidly developing in Indonesia since the Indonesian Independence in 1945. Modern Art is a part of the super culture of the Indonesian metropolitan and is closely related to the contact between the Indonesian and Western Cultures. Its birth was part of the nationalism project, when the Indonesian people consists of various ethnics were determined to become a new nation, the Indonesian nation, and they wished for a new culture, and therefore, a new art. The period 1960s, which was the beginning of the creation and development of the painters and the painters associations, was the first stage of the development of modern art in Indonesia. The second stage showed the important role of the higher education institutes for art. These institutes have developed since the 1950s and in the 1970s they were the main education institutes for painters and other artists. The artists awareness of the medium, forms or the organization of shapes were encouraged more intensely and these encouraged the exploring and experimental attitudes. Meanwhile, the information about the world's modern art, particularly Western Art; was widely and rapidly spread. The 1960s and 1970s were marked by the development of various abstractions and abstract art and the great number of explorations in various new media, like the experiment with collage, assemblage, mixed media. The works of the Neo Art Movement-group in the second half of the 1970s and in the 1980s shows environmental art and installations, influenced by the elements of popular art, from the commercial world and mass media, as well as the involvement of art in the social and environmental affairs. The issues about the environment, frequently launched by the intellectuals in the period of economic development starting in the 1970s, echoed among the artists, and they were widened in the social, art and cultural circles. The Indonesian economic development following the important change in the 1970s has caused a change in the life of the middle and upper class society, as has the change in various aspects of a big city, particularly Jakarta. The new genre emerged in 1975 which indicates contemporary art in Indonesia, when a group of young artists organized a movement, which was widely known as the Indonesian New Art Movement. This movement criticized international style, universalism and the long standing debate on an east-west-dichotomy. As far as the actual practice of the arts was concerned the movement criticized the domination of the art of painting and saw this as a sign of stagnation in Indonesian art development. Based on this criticism 'the movement' introduced ready-mades and installations (Jim Supangkat). Takes almost two decades that the New Art Movement activists were establishing Indonesian Installation art genre as contemporary paradigm and influenced the 1980's gene ration like, FX Harsono, Dadang Christanto, Arahmaiani, Tisna Sanjaya, Diyanto, Andarmanik, entering the 1990's decade as "rebellion period" ; reject towards established aesthetic mainstream i.e. painting, sculpture, graphic art which are insufficient to express "new language" and artistic needs especially to mediate social politic and cultural situation. Installation Art which contains open possibilities of creation become a vehicle for aesthetic establishment rejection and social politics stagnant expression in 1990s. Installation art accommodates two major field; first, the rejection of aesthetic establishment has a consequences an artists quest for medium; deconstruction models and cross disciplines into multi and intermedia i.e. performance, music, video etc. Second aspect is artists' social politic intention for changes, both conclude as characteristics of Indonesian Installation Art and establishing the freedom of expression in contemporary Indonesian Art until today.

  • PDF