• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.95-109
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was for analyzing the fashion design imaged by Kimono in the 1990s. Through the work, what is the way to create the non-western fashion design can be found. For this purpose, I took my design data from fashion magazines in the 1990s, and referred to the literal materials about history of western costume and Kimono. The result were as follows ; Kimono in Japanese denotes thing to wear. Ki is derived from the verb kiru, to wear, and mono, thing. However, in the western world the term came to mean the T-shaped outer garment formerly known in Japan as the kosode. It is consists of sleeve(sode), wide sash(obi), hemline(suso), collar(eri), and material. There were many complex reasons for its diversity in the west, and for its evolution during the past one hundred years from the peignoir including exoticism, eroticism, women's liberation to the high fashion imaged by folklore and avant-garde. Therefore the fashion design imaged by Kimono was divided into feminine style, natural & folklore style, modern & avant-garde style.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.28-45
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• 2005

La $d{\acute{e}}marche$ et l'objet de cette recherche sont d'analyser, psychiquement, biologiquement, les marques de $l'intersexualit{\acute{e}}$ $pr{\acute{e}}sentent$ en Occident et les elements intersexuels, binaires dans le $v{\hat{e}}tement$, et ${\acute{e}}galement$ de comprendre $l'ambigu{\ddot{i}}t{\acute{e}}$ ou encore la fusion des $identit{\acute{e}}s$ $sexu{\acute{e}}es$. qui $pr{\acute{e}}sente$ symboliquement ${\grave{a}}$ travers le $v{\hat{e}}tement$, dans la $soci{\acute{e}}t{\acute{e}}$ moderne. $Malgr{\acute{e}}$ tous les points communs et $diff{\acute{e}}rents$, la base fondamentale dans les $th{\acute{e}}ories$ de I'Occident est que tout individu est psychiquement, biologiquement en quelque sorte un intersexuel qui s'ignore, avec des variations selon l'individu. En $d{\acute{e}}finitive$, les compositions doubles des ${\acute{e}}l{\acute{e}}ments$ dans le $v{\hat{e}}tement$ occidental montraient $embl{\acute{e}}matiquement$ nos $qualit{\acute{e}}s$ doubles, masculins et $f{\acute{e}}minins$, et les trois ${\acute{e}}l{\acute{e}}ments$ semblent primordiaux pour $l'{\acute{e}}lucidation$ de la $pr{\acute{e}}disposition$ du porteur : la couleur du tissu, sa texture et la forme du $v{\hat{e}}tement$. La mode d'aujourd'hui bascule entre masculin et $f{\acute{e}}minin$. Cette fusion de la mode semble le reflet d'une tendance intersexuelle et d'une fusion du genre.