• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.67-72
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• 2009

To investigate the strong and effective sericin fixing agents and conditions, raw silk fibers were treated with the mixtures of urea-formalin, thiourea-formalin and melamine-formalin as sericin fixing agents, respectively. And the treated raw silk fibers were degummed by the degumming liquors of alkaline detergent and sodium carbonate to confirm the hardness of sericin fixation. The weight of raw silk fibers was decreased in the process of sericin fixation treating at 80$^{\circ}C$ for 60min. The effective sericin fixation was obtained by treating at $60{\sim}80^{\circ}C$ for 15min with the mixture of melamine and formalin. The mixture of melamine and formalin showed an outstanding ability of sericin fixation because the three amino groups of melamine were able to cross-link the hydroxy amino acids of sericin such as serine with the assistance of formalin.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.412-417
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• 2009

In order to investigate the effective sericin fixation of raw silk fibers the influence of various additives added to the melamine and formalin mixtures on sericin fixation was studied. When raw silk fibers were treated with wetting agent but without subsequent washing before sericin fixation, the strong sericin fixation was obtained by fixing sericin. Adding hydrogen peroxide to the melamine and formalin mixture made sericin fixation worse, resulting weaken the sericin hardness of fixed raw silk fibers and tight bonding of the fibers. On the other hand, it was confirmed that adding sodium hydrosulfite to the melamine and formalin mixtures gave better sericin hardness of fixed raw silk fibers without the bonding of fibers. Supplying additional melamine with he low concentration of sodium hydroxide to the melamine and formalin mixture(melamine:formalin= 1:6) resulted in very good sericin fixation. But adding hydrochloric acid or methanol to the same mixture had no effect on the sericin fixation, and adding magnesium chloride to it made the hardness of sericin fixation even worse.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.19-24
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• 2014

Silk has always been one of the most favored textile materials. Fully degummed silk fiber (i.e., silk fibers without sericin) shows better luster than raw silk fiber (with sericin); it is also softer. On the other hand, raw silk fiber feels cooler because of the presence of sericin, making it useful as a textile for the summer season. Recently, partially degummed silk has attracted researchers' attention because it provides better luster, feel, and dyeing properties. However, the partial degumming of silk is very difficult because it results in inhomogeneously degummed fiber. In the present study, silk yarns were degummed with surfactant aqueous solutions and the effects of each surfactant on the degumming ratio, crystallinity, and homogeneity of the degummed silk yarn were examined. The degumming ratio and crystallinity index of silk yarn varied depending on the type of surfactant. On the whole, anionic surfactants resulted in higher degumming ratios and better homogeneity than nonionic surfactants.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.54-60
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• 2013

The partial degumming of silk has recently attracted researchers' attention because of its ability to produce silk textiles with new tactile properties, intermediate between the softness of fully degummed silk and the hardness of raw silk. However, it is difficult to obtain partially degummed silk in a homogenously degummed state due to the heterogeneous character of sericin removal. It is also difficult to examine the homogeneity of degumming. In the present study, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy with attenuated total reflection (ATR) geometry was used to evaluate the effect of processing conditions on the degumming of silk yarns. The crystallinity index, calculated from FTIR spectra, showed an increase with the degumming ratio. Therefore, the homogeneity of degumming could be evaluated by the variation of crystallinity index for 30 different spots in silk yarns. The homogeneity of degumming was influenced by the total degumming time, the content of surfactant, and the liquor rate. No effect was observed upon changing the number of degumming cycles at the same total degumming time.

• Applied Microscopy
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• v.50
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• pp.16.1-16.11
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• 2020

Silk is produced by a variety of insects, but only silk made by terrestrial arthropods has been examined in detail. To fill the gap, this study was designed to understand the silk spinning system of aquatic insect. The larvae of caddis flies, Hydatophylax nigrovittatus produce silk through a pair of labial silk glands and use raw silk to protect themselves in the aquatic environment. The result of this study clearly shows that although silk fibers are made under aquatic conditions, the cellular silk production system is quite similar to that of terrestrial arthropods. Typically, silk production in caddisworm has been achieved by two independent processes in the silk glands. This includes the synthesis of silk fibroin in the posterior region, the production of adhesive glycoproteins in the anterior region, which are ultimately accumulated into functional silk dope and converted to a silk ribbon coated with gluey substances. At the cellular level, each substance of fibroin and glycoprotein is specifically synthesized at different locations, and then transported from the rough ER to the Golgi apparatus as transport vesicles, respectively. Thereafter, the secretory vesicles gradually increase in size by vesicular fusion, forming larger secretory granules containing specific proteins. It was found that these granules eventually migrate to the apical membrane and are exocytosed into the lumen by a mechanism of merocrine secretion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.163-175
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• 2007

This study examines 74 pieces of textiles of Daegaya found in the Jeesan-dong Tomb and Saeng-cho Tomb, and analyzes their characteristics and weaving techniques. Dagaya is known to have produced ramie and hemp from bast fibers. The hemp textiles were all woven in plain weave, and the ramie textiles were woven either in plain weave or plain braid. The ramie textiles were slightly more dense compared to the hemp textiles, however, both had average densities between 0.92 to 0.93, showing that they are balanced plain weave textiles. It was also found that S twist threads were used in the production of the hemp and ramie textiles. The dyed textiles on iron remains were found to be the oldest textiles to use dying techniques for patterns. Silk textiles were woven in plain weave, twill weave, and leno weave. All of the silk were made with non-twisted thread. The densities were between 30 to 58.3 and the the density rates were 1.0 to 2.5 for plain weave silk, this showed that varieties of plain weaver created by different densities of warp and well. The average density of cho was $53.4{\times}22.5/cm^2$ the density rate was about 2.40, therefore warp was woven more dense compared to the weft. There were degummed and raw silk used in silk textiles, but most of them were found to be degummed thread.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.52-59
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• 1993

Raw silk degumming, by which the sericin and other marterials are eliminated from fibroin, is very essential process to produce silk fabrics. Alkali chemicals and enzymes have been used for the silk-degumming process. In this paper, the effect of heat treatment was investigated on silk fibers degummed by two different methods, soap and enzymatic degumming method. The difference between these two degumming methods was analyzed on the basis of results of mechanical testing, thermal analysis and intrated spectroscopy. The tenacity and the elongation of silk fiber are decreased by the heat-treatment in wet state. This tendency is observed in both cases of two degumming methods. The peak temperature in DSC analysis, which is attributed to thermal decomposition of silk fiber, was shifted to higher value with the heat-treatment temperature for the soap degummed silk fiber, however, it was not for the enzymatic degummed one. The IR crystallinity of soap digummed silk fiber is increased with the heat-treatment temperature, while that of enzymatic degummed fiber is not.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 1981

Silk textile finishing has been studied for many years by many workers in order to meet more utilities for various endusers. Such studies, however, could not be successful because any natural fibers are hardly change their natures by artificial treating methods. Textile finishing is of course to improve the mechandise qualities and the poor natures of silk so that it may be available as the best textile fiber in the world. Sometimes, famous trade marked textile plays more power than its quality in the silk market, nevertheless, this should be over line of research activities. Meantime, the silk demand has been also transferred from ladies stocking to other clothes since nylon or other synthetic fibers were developed. That is why, the extension of silk demand should be developed by various research works. Specially, silk is known as difficult textile to handle it during washing or ironing process which happened to depress down the silk usage for house wives. In order to solve such problems, the reporter has been worked for many years and now, he believes that he has developed a proper finishing method to coversuch problems. The developed finishing method may be said to eligible with economical aspect and shorten the dry duration after water washing in half against normal silk textile without harming the specific silk nature. As all of us know, silk fiber starts to denature since it was spinned by silkworm and the fiber is formed as overlapped "S" type curves during its concooning process. After it is made as raw silk or sericin silk, it shows as straight line form, but it changes in to waved form in case refining or degumming process in order return to its original spinned form. Such nature is continued during its textile form and ends with hard ironing nature than other textile fibers. Mean while, the silk fiber keeps to continue its denaturing and this is iniciated by repeat of washing and drying which takes many years to reach its final stage, The reporter has found the iniciating denature of silk by his finishing process, with out heat, decreasing the swollen nature which ended with shortening the drying duration after wash. Each washing was carried out by soaking the previously weighed sample in cold water for one hour, then pressed the sample for ten minutes to eliminate its free water component before weighing with same condition. According to this, the treated silk showed much denaturing after the finishing, but the standard silk progressed the denaturing by and by with the repeat of washing and drying, finally reached the same swollen degree of treated silk, Such treating result explains that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other hand, standard silk may reach to such condition by the time of worn out clothes after repeat of washing and drying for many years while the clothes will be no more useful. The decreased swelling nature has brought about the drying period in half against standard silk after all. Not only the tests of tenacity and elongation but also crease resistance recovery, stiffness and shrinkage tests were carried out after each washing and drying which he has found better result on the treated silk textile against the standard silk. The most important thing was to keep the textile feeling of silk by such finishing work before improve any poor nature of silk. The general silk has a nature to absorb smoke or dirt from its surrounding air and reaches to dirty color shade upon such exposure, but the treated one has improved such nature because of its artificial denaturing, another word, it keeps clean longer than the normal silk. Many previous finishing works could improve some specific nature of silk, but it happened to deprave other important natures. The reporters work is, however, specialized to improve the silk to be useful as Wash and Wear Silk without harming its standard natures. So far, this work happened to be a overall innovative finishing method of silk textile.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.15-23
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• 1978

This studies have been carried out for several years to develop more better urea resin treating process on silk textiles which may be better crease resist without harming on the textile touch feeling. Specially, this paper payed attention to minimize the necessary formaldehyde content to be condensed with urea and created a new processing method which is named as Homo Metalic Urea Resin found to be better than urea resin process. The obtained results are as followings. 1. The prepared urea resin was found to be smell-less because of minimized formaldehyde content is the least than any other reports carried out before than this. 2. A new type of urea resin has been created by using uric 2incchloride and formaldehyde which is named as Homo Metalic Urea Resin. This processing method may carry both weighing process and urea resin process. 3. Crease resistance, stiffness and bulkiness were increased through such resin treats. Homo metalic urea resin process showed better results than the urea resin process. 4. Spun silk or low twisted silk have shown better crease resistance than raw silk or high twisted silk upon the both resin treats. 5. Both treat methods were found to be good economical feasibility upon the silk finishing process. 6. Tenacity and elongation of silk fibers were found to decrease some what because of grafting or weighing results. 7. Wooly silk has been also created with specific urea resin process. Such silk could be obtained by formaldehyde gas treat with urea soaken silk in a chamber, which induced to form scale on the surface of silk fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.754-764
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• 2010

Most silk fabrics are produced only after the degumming process to make the best use of the properties and have restricted silk processing that do not hinder their performance. However, considering the highly increased preference for natural fibers and the shortage of raw silk, high-quality upgraded silk product functions are required by the development of a processing technology and a good design. This study analyzes the changes with the samples by the functional finish such as softening finishing, wash and wear, tannin weighting by measuring the objective hand of scoured silk and three finished ones using KES-FB. As a result, the change of objective hand of finished silk fabrics that improves functionality was analyzed and compared. The increase of KOSHI after the finish became stiffer show that the silk fabric samples are appropriate for summertime clothes with the retention of a certain clothing climate for the body. The stiffness of finished fabrics for the normal had a closer relationship with the density of fabrics than the type of finishing. The samples (after the softening finishes) maintain better elasticity according to the properties of the softener and the finishing agent. Although the specimens of this study were thin fabrics, their elasticity against compression increased after the softening finishes and became softer than degummed silk. The surface properties of georgette were changed by all types of finishing.