• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.283-292
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• 2002

This study is to examine the costume and features in Asuka period and the results are as follows. Asuka period is the time that the country loader positively imported the continental civilization, founded a new country organization in political society and accepted Buddhism and exerted his best passion for its thriving. As the result of examining the costume and features of Asuka period when the requirement for accepting the foreign culture was met via the present costume regulation and relics material, it was found that the costume had a considerable difference between of the ruling classes with government official and noble as the center and the common people. As for the costume of the ruling-classed official and noble, Korean and Chinese costume regulation was introduced, court dress, ceremonial dress, and uniform were dressed. The composition of costume with introduction of new clothes including Wio, Baedang, Seup, Pil, Kyongsang, for the ruling classes was diversified as well. As the result of looking the clothes for the present ruling classes via the existing and the contemporary relics, it was found that the clothes consisted of Eui and Gon or Eui and Sang style in principle and Po with Banryung or Sooryung was worn over what. However, for the common people, mainly man wore Eui and Gon and woman Eui and Sang, which was the traditional costume style in the ancient tomb days.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.181-196
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• 1998

This study is about the similarities and the individualties of the traditional costumes in the ruling classes of Koguryo(高句麗), Bakjae(百濟), and Shilla(新羅). The analysis is based on the views of historical reformation on$\boxDr$Sam-gooksagi(三國史記)$\boxUl$Bongi(本紀). The costumes that were worn by the governing classes are categorized by the following, official duties, wars, ceremonies, and recreations(hunting). Up to the present time, there has been a great tendency to emphasize the similarities of the Three Kingdoms' costumes among most of academic researchers. However, the conceptions of individualities of the costumes among the Three Kingdoms were conceived by the facts that geological environments, political systems, social traditions, social aspects, and foreign affairs. The Three Kingdoms had different official rank systems along with official costume systems. Monopolization of official positions of the ruling parties tried to show their dignity and authority through styles of their costumes. The costumes of Koguryo were greatly differentiated by geographical regions ; One direct example is cheak of Pyoungyang and Anak regiona was named as official hats of rulling parties of Kokuryo. However, in this study, the cheak was viewed as a product of influences of Chinese costume. Further-more, the laguan was named as mooguan. Costumes of ceremonial occasions were heavily decorated to symbolize dignity and auth-ority. Metal ornament of headgear and belt, metal shoes were con-sidered as ceremonial costumes. the tight hunting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-ting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-tings were presumed to be spring and autumn clothing. Excavated from Neungasnlee, the hunting costumes inscribed in the gold incense burnner were confirmed as hunting costumes of Bakjae. The individuality of the costumes of the Three Kingdoms could also be supported by the fact that they had different climates. The temperature difference between Gipan region and Kyoungjoo(慶州) region was emphasized. Especially winter clothing would have had a big difference in style than the summer clothing. Through the research summarized above, this study was able to confirm that each of the Three Kingdoms had developed individualized costumes based on their geographical, cultural and environmental factors. Furthermore, through this study, it was possible to find out the difference as well as the similarities of their costumes according to each of their people's sociopolitical status, awareness of indepen-dence, andunique historical and traditional charactoristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.71-82
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• 1989

While ruling Chosun, with a view to making Chosun the primary supplier of food, Japan made the peasantry of Chosun go to ruin by leaving land from them through land enterprises, and the projects of increasing rice production. At the same time, Japan formed the higher classes comprising pro-Japanese capitalists, landlords and intellectuals, and protected them in order to carry out her colonial policies. Naturally there came into being a great gulf between the minority of high society and the majority of the poor in Chosun. As there was a great difference in food life between the two, I'm going to examine the literature of those days to grasp exactly the condition of their food intake. As for the staple food, out of thirteen provinces in Chosun, 13% lived on only rice and 27% on other minor cereals with no rice. As for the subsidiary food, about thirty percents did not take any animal protein. The examination of intake of nutrition by classes shows that the higher and middle classes took the necessary amount of calorie and protein and that the component ratio of calorie was comparatively properly distributed. The lower classes are defined as those whose monthly income was less than 100 won and the peasantry in general. And again the peasantry are classified into three-high, middle and low-according to their farming conditions. The tenant farmers in Kyeongguido and the peasants of Darli community took enough amount of calorie and protein, but much smaller amount of animal protein. Fire-field farmers led not less miserable food intake than the extremely poor peasants. They seldom lived on rice. Potatoes, oats and millets were their staple food. Lastly, Engel's coefficient for the Tomack-min (the residents in mud huts) who were among the three extremely poor classes, was 73.3%, which was much higher than that of the lower classes in then Japan. Rationed rice and barley were their staple food but the rationed amount was not sufficient to satisfy needs of physical labor. In conclusion, during the period of Japanese ruling of Chosun, the minority of higher and middle classes in Chosun generally took sufficient amount of nutrient, while the status of food intake with poor peasants, fire-field farmers and Tomack-min was extremely miserable.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.523-529
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the costumes of the ruling class in the Asuka-Nara Period by looking at the change in the clothing law of the era. During the Asuka-Nara period, various cultures such as Buddhism, architecture, sculpture, paintings, music, and so on were introduced through vigorous exchange with Chosun and Tang. Contrary to the primitive-Kohun Period, the regulation about costumes was enacted as law in the Asuka-Nara Period this fact tells us that there was high interest in clothing. Frequent reorganization of clothing law had to do with the rank system of Japan as well as with the exchange with other countries. The clothing law of Asuka-Nara Period was mostly consisted of the regulations about costumes of the ruling class including the royal family and government officials. The law regulated different coronet and color for the clothing depending on the different rank of the government officials. The more classified the rank was, the more varied color was used. In addition, there was a variety in the costumes system; 2 piece clothing of the Kohun Period was continuously used while new types of clothing were also introduced. The royal family members and government officials wore different types of clothing such as Yebok, Jobok, and Jebok, depending on time, place, or the purpose of occasion. The costumes of this period could be inferred from the analysis of the relics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.283-298
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• 1999

Bei-Wei(北魏) arose from Ta-ba clan(拓拔氏), a race belonging to Xian-bei(삼배) and it was the first foreign dynasty that reigned the central area of China in A.D 386-534. Xiao-wen-di(孝文帝) found it necessary to adopt the ruling mechanism of Han race's 'Sino-centralism' so as to establish orthodoxy of Xian-bei dynasty. He ordered Xian-bei people to channge their own costume for the costume of Han race. Costume was one of ruling means in Xiao-wen-di's case. However the revolutionary policy of Sinonizatio by Xiao-wen-di brought abuot serious conflicts and confrontations among classes of Xian-bei Xiao-bei wore their own costume and opposed Xiao-wen-di(孝文帝)'s policy Consequently Xian-wen-di(孝文帝)'s Sinonization policy accelerated the downfall of Bei-Wei(北魏). In the course of reformation and downfall of Bei-Wei(北魏) costume played an important role of representing national indentity.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.30 no.A
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• pp.59-68
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• 2010

This study intended to examine the changes of residential building characteristics in period classification. The results of this study are as follows: During Joseon dynasty, it is judged that the social changes in the ideology of ruling classes did not directly affect the traditional residential style. The mid period and latter period of Joseon, it is changed toward horizontal and practical residential layout in place of confucian courtesy based style. During port opening period, the traditional residential style was remodeled through addition of glass panes to inter-chamber floor in tune with the influx of modern materials and ideologies like glass or cement etc. The Japanese ruling era of Korea period, the modern housing style of room separation type was settled.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.400-410
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• 2017

Bactria was the intersection of transportation between Greece-Iran and Central Asia at the Silk Road. This kingdom was Greek in all of its ruling classes. Because the Greek culture of Bactria spread to India and the east, Bactria was a very important place in ancient civilizations. The purpose of this study is to understand the life and the various cultures of Bactria and the influence of Greek culture on the costumes of Bactria. The research method was approached through the analysis of the empirical data. Data on antiquities were analyzed in European exhibition catalogs and secondary data collected from Internet. The results of this study are as follows: First, the original costume of Bactria was identified in two styles in the reliefs of the Persian Achaemenid. One is the tunic jacket sarapis that goes down to the knee and wide trousers with half-length boots. The other is the Scythian style trousers that looks like a barrel in a Sarapis. Second, in the Bactrian coin depicting the bust of the Bactrians, the hair styles and headgear of the Bactrian kings were analyzed. The Bactrians wore braids with short curly hair and wore Macedonian hats and helmets on them. Third, the relics excavated from the ruins of Ai-Khanuom depicted the forms of the ruling classes of Bactria. The dress styles and hair styles of gods and priests were imitating the form of the Greek costume as it is.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.207-223
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• 2017

Jeonju-Jang is the wood furniture that was made in Chonbuk Jeonju province during the Joseon Dynasty, and was used by middle-upper social classes. It has value as a local cultural heritage because it has unique characteristics in terms of the shape of the furniture, the metal ornament and various functions are integrated in accordance with user's requirements. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to define the structural characteristics of the Jeonju-Jang through case studies of 16 existing artifacts in order to preserve and inherit the value as local cultural resources. The conclusion is as follows. First, Jeonju-Jang in the late period of Joseon Dynasty that is made up of one board to the bottom with the binding of the board. and the front wall, the Juibyuckkan and the Meoruemkan are omitted or made small, so the structure of the surface is simple. There are three or four drawers under the Cheon pan(top plate). There are drawers and shelf inside the hinged door. In the case of a two-layer type, there is a Gaegumeong type door which has half of one side hinged. Second, Jeonju-Jang of the Japanese Ruling Era had a Juibyuckkan by frame binding and an increase in the number of Meoruemkan. and it had independent legs. The Cheon-pan(top plate) was more left and right than both sides. Third, in the late Joseon Dynasty period as a feature of the metal ornaments, cast iron and yellow brass were used as materials. In the Japanese Ruling Era, nickel was mainly used. Various patterns were engraved and the number increased, and it became gorgeous surface as a whole.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.563-582
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• 2018

In ancient times, hairstyle varies according to tribes. Because it is a social product that depends on status, class, and gender within the tribes, research on the hairstyle is an important source for studying the culture of the tribes. The purpose of this study is to analyze hairstyle of the Scythians and to understand the culture of the Scythians. Furthermore, the purpose is to identify the ethnic group based on this research. And it is intended to use the results as a comprehensive resource for research on the origins of Korean ancient costumes. As a research method, literature study and artifact analysis were performed concurrently. Data for artifact analysis were taken directly from the Eremitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia, where the researcher visited for this study. The conclusions of this study are as follows: Hairstyle of the Scythians were classified into three types: straight hair, braided hair, and tied hair depending on social status, age, and region. Straight hair was usually seen with kings, royalty, and warriors, and the hair length varied according to their status. Braid hair appears by a depiction of an old man and young Scythians. Tied hair was observed in the warrior. The beard was divided into chin-beard and mustache. Long chin-beards and mustaches were mostly observed in the ruling classes, while medium length chin-beards and short mustaches were considered the most common form of beard because they appeared in most classes. The young Scythians, regardless of their status, had no beard.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.109-123
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• 2015

The object of this research is to take a bilateral look into cultural exchanges of the Netherlands and Japan through the East India Company and thereby improve the general understanding in regards to the exchanges of costume cultures between the East and the West. The study conducted qualitative analyses on features of contemporary costumes of the Netherlands and Japan from 1602 to 1799 by investigating the secondary sources, such as the histories of costumes, arts, and literature. The results are as follows; the traditional sleeves of the Japanese Kimono were basically cut out in a straight line. However due to the growing popularity of the kimono home gown in Europe, the producers of the kimono in India as well as several other European countries modified them into western-style sleeves. Regarding the costumes of the Netherlands, which were introduced to Japan, the study found that Japan imported Dutch fabrics, instead of specific clothing items. In Japan, costume controls and anti-conspicuous consumption regulations among social classes including a closed-door policy had negative effects on both developments and exchanges of costumes of the country. However, when it comes to the Jinbaori, a costume for ruling classes, Japan was open to using fabrics, patterns and designs of the West. In light of what have been discussed so far, the study confirmed that the costume exchanges between the two countries started long after their first business of the general cultural exchanges. Though it is clear that the advancements in the natural sciences that the Japanese made can be attributed to the West, Japan was one of the nations that impacted the costume cultures in Europe.