• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.35 no.5
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• pp.336-346
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• 2021

The prediction of wave conditions is crucial in the field of marine and ocean engineering. Hence, this study aims to predict the significant wave height through machine learning (ML), a soft computing method. The adopted metocean data, collected from 2012 to 2020, were obtained from the Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology. We adopted the feedforward neural network (FNN) and long-short term memory (LSTM) models to predict significant wave height. Input parameters for the input layer were selected by Pearson correlation coefficients. To obtain the optimized hyperparameter, we conducted a sensitivity study on the window size, node, layer, and activation function. Finally, the significant wave height was predicted using the FNN and LSTM models, by varying the three input parameters and three window sizes. Accordingly, FNN (W48) (i.e., FNN with window size 48) and LSTM (W48) (i.e., LSTM with window size 48) were superior outcomes. The most suitable model for predicting the significant wave height was FNN(W48) owing to its accuracy and calculation time. If the metocean data were further accumulated, the accuracy of the ML model would have improved, and it will be beneficial to predict added resistance by waves when conducting a sea trial test.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.1 s.74
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• pp.7-17
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• 2007

Based on the Boussinesq wave model, the wave distribution in the Chagui-Do sea area in Jeju was simulated by applying the directional irregular waves at an incident boundary. The time and spatial variations of monthly mean wave height and period were investigated, which aims to provide basic information on optimal sites for wave power generation. The grid size and time interval of the Boussinesq wave model were validated by examining wave distributions around a surface piercing wall, fixed at sea bottom with a constant slope. Except for the summer season, the significant wave height is dominated by wind waves and appears to be relatively high at the north sea of Chagui-Do, which is open to the ocean, while it is remarkably reduced at the rear sea of Chagui-Do because of its blocking effect on incident waves. In the summer, the significant wave height is higher at the south sea, and it is dominated by the swell waves, which is contributed by the strong south-west wind. The magnitude of significant wave height is the largest in the winter and the lowest in the spring. Annual average of the significant wave height is distinctively high at the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast, due to a steep variation of water depth and corresponding wave focusing effect. The seasonal and spatial distribution of the wave period around Chagui-Do sea reveals very similar characteristics to the significant wave height. It is suggested that the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast is the mast promising site for wave power generation.

• Journal of Fisheries and Marine Sciences Education
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.1013-1025
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• 2014

Marine meterological characteristics off the coast in the East Sea between 2006 and 2013 were investigated by comparing the high wind-wave alert and moored-measured significant wave high. Monthly and yearly variations of the high wind-wave alert duration off the coast in the central part of the East Sea are correlated with those of the significant wave height measurement with their minima in June and 2008 and maxima in December and 2012. Both the high wind-wave alert duration and significant wave height increase remarkably during 2010-2013 when compared with during 2006-2009. The remarkable increase, occurring dominantly in December, seems to be related with Arctic oscillation variability. However, the comparisons reveal that only about a half of high wind-wave alerts satisfy the criteria for issuing the high wind-wave alert. To issue the high wind-wave alert, the wind speed at the sea should exceed 14 m/s or the significant wave height should be higher than 3 m. The high wind-wave alerts unsatisfying the significant wave height criteria are issued mainly during spring and summer. These results imply that additional surface buoy moorings in the open basin of the East Sea are necessary for more accurate issue of the high wind-wave alert.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.32 no.11
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• pp.841-852
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• 2023

In this study, the significant wave height and wave period of a specially designed observation system that connected two drifting buoys to an ocean data buoy was observed for 23 days from February 7 to 29, 2020, and the results were compared and analyzed. The results indicated that, in comparison to the ocean data buoy, the drifting buoy exhibited greater variability in significant wave height over shorter time intervals. The wave period of the ocean data buoy also appeared longer than that of the drifting buoy. The greater the observed significant wave height and wave period from both the ocean data and drifting buoys, the more pronounced the differences between the two observation instruments become. Moreover, the study revealed that the disparity in observation methods between the ocean data and drifting buoys did not significantly affect the significant wave height characteristics, as long as the period remained unchanged for up to half of the observation time.

• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.337-340
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• 2002

Monitoring of wave height is important primarily to reduce storm risks at sea and along the coast. Wave heights in recent years have increased 50% for the last 40 years, thus requiring intensive monitoring. Satellite altimetry offers a powerful tool for regular and extensive monitoring of the wave height. We extracted significant wave height (SWH) using several altimeter missions from 1987-1995 over the Northwest Pacific and compared with ECMWF reanalysis (ERA) products. For large wave heights > 2.5 m, the ERA wave heights are smaller than the altimetric ones, while for small wave heights the ERA wave heights are larger. Comparison in SWH between altimetric derivations and ERA model products shows the discrepancy of 0.46-0.21$\times$SWH(m).

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-69
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• 2014

Analysis frequency spectrum through observed wave data in northeastern shore, jeju island, during winter and fall, and review wave characteristics. In order to compute maximum wave height, we calculate the ratio of significant wave height to maximum wave height using the linear regression equation. In addition, for calculating JONSWAP spectrum, we assumed ${\gamma}$ value using significant wave height and peak frequency in the observation area. Consequently, the highest frequency is below 1 m in the case of significant wave height and during the first observation, the mean of height was estimated at 0.523 m and during the scend observation, it was 0.423 m. Furthermore, in peak frequency, the highest frequency was 0.12 Hz~0.15 Hz (period is nearly 6.67s~8.33s), the results of ${\gamma}$ from using significant wave height and peak frequency is 2.72 and the significant wave height calculated by straight linear regression equation was $1.635H_s$.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.61-67
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• 2009

In this paper time series wave data which contain a freak wave is investigated. Various wave characteristics are compared between wave data with a freak wave and without. Among 24 hour wave data measured in the Yura Sea, two adjacent 30 min wave data with and without a freak wave are examined intensively. It is seen that the highest waves do not have the longest wave period. The wave period of the longest period waves is a little longer than the average wave period and much shorter than the significant wave period. Although the sea state is quite high, the Rayleigh distribution fits well to the probability of wave height. The characteristics of the wave spectra do not change much, but the nonlinearity increases for the wave data with a freak wave. The significant wave height without a freak wave is larger than that with a freak wave. Hence, the higher significant wave height does not always increase the probability of the occurrence of the freak waves.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.111-120
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• 2019

In coastal morphological modelling, there are a number of input factors: wave height, water depth, sand particle size, bed friction coefficients, coastal structures and so forth. Measurements or estimates of these input data may include uncertainties due to errors by the measurement or hind-casting methods. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the uncertainty of each input data and the range of the uncertainty during the evaluation of numerical results. In this study, three uncertainty factors are considered with regard to the prediction of coastal erosion in Ilsan beach located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan metropolitan city. Those are wave diffraction effect of XBeach model, wave input scenario and the specification of the coastal structure. For this purpose, the values of mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater were adjusted respectively and the followed numerical results of morphological changes are analyzed. There were erosion dominant patterns as the wave direction is perpendicular to Ilsan beach, the higher significant wave height, and the lower height of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the rate of uncertainty impacts among mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater are compared. In the study area, the uncertainty influence by the wave input scenario was the largest, followed by the height of the submerged breakwater and the mean wave direction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.178-189
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• 2004

For designing a reliable harbor, a methodology for estimating design waves of 97.5% operable harbor condition is suggested using long-term wave data. For a practical application of the methodology, a marine police harbor was selected as a site. Wave data used were collected from February 1993 to December 2003 at Jodo wave gage station in front of Pusan harbor. Joint distributions of significant wave height and significant wave period for specified wave directions were obtained and used to feed as input waves for parabolic mild-slope wave model. Results showed that input waves with significant wave height of 1.75 m, significant wave period off sec and wave direction E yield design waves height of 1.06 m at the site of interests, which is a 97.5% operable harbor condition. Wind waves generated inside harbor showed to be no effect on the design wave condition. Swells propagated from deep water into harbor are shown to be dominant effects on the design waves of operable harbor condition.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.631-644
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• 2013

Significant Wave Height (SWH) data measured by satellite altimeters (Topex/Poseidon, Jason-1, Envisat, and Jason-2) were validated in the seas around Korea by comparison with wave height measurements from marine meteorological buoy stations of Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA). A total of 1,070 collocation matchups between Ku-band satellite altimeter data and buoy data were obtained for the periods of the four satellites from 1992 to the present. In the case of C-band and S-band observations, 1,086 matchups were obtained and used to assess the accuracy of satellite SWH. Root-Mean-Square (RMS) errors of satellite SWH measured with Ku-band were evaluated to roughly 0.2_2.1 m. Comparisons of the RMS errors and bias errors between different frequency bands revealed that SWH observed with Ku-band was much more accurate than other frequencies, such as C-band or S-band. The differences between satellite SWH and buoy wave height, satellite minus buoy, revealed some dependence on the magnitude of the wave height. Satellite SWH tended to be overestimated at a range of low wave height of less than 1 m, and underestimated for high wave height of greater than 2 m. Such regional characteristics imply that satellite SWH should be carefully used when employed for diverse purposes such as validating wave model results or data assimilation procedures. Thus, this study confirmed that satellite SWH products should be continuously validated for regional applications.