• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.82-99
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate the traditional costume colors in ancient Korea. The results of this study can be summarized follows : The traditional costume colors in ancient Korea was affected on Chineses goverment official\`s costume colors, specially in Tongil Silla Dynasty. Goverment official\`s costume colors were purple(紫), red(赤), yeoolw(黃), blue(靑). The traditional Korean colors for clothes were devided in the white costume for low class and the colored costume of high class. The traditional Korean colors for colthes became fixed in the later Chosun dynasty, According to developing of dyeing technic, the prohibition of red costume for low class made for wear red undercloth. And on account of costume color in sumptuary law occured the transition of costume color. As transition of costume color, yellow(黃) changed in light in light yellow(松花色), purple(紫) did in dark green purple(茶割) Also it was found that the traditional Korean color for clothes was many kinds of soft, deep, natural colors out of red(紫)·yellow(黃)·white(白)·black(黑)·blue(靑).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.46-66
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• 2016

This thesis aims to analyze the costume changes according to the ideological transition through the portraits of Napoleon Bonaparte. This study selected 32 color pictures of Napoleon, which was taken during his time as a general to his ascension as Emperor (1785-1815). The study qualitatively analyzed the traits and costume elements in view of the items, color and ornaments of the costume, while studying the effects of the ideological transition. The costumes of Napoleon were categorized into three parts: general, governor and Emperor. Firstly, Napoleon most frequently wore the navy uniforms when taking the portraits as a general. The uniform gave Napoleon the image of strength, youth and intelligence, which reflected the ideology of enlightenment. Secondly, the red-colored administrator uniform, combined with a military coat with culotte, was worn to make the governor look intelligent, which would ascribe to the ideological demand of the enlightenment. Lastly, his portraits as emperor showed him in long white tunica, combined with red-colored coronation cape ornamented with embroidery, ermine fur, and the crown of laurel. This costume denoted both the enlightenment and also the neoclassical trend aspiring for the return to the Greek and Roman era. In this way, the portrait of Napoleon might be expected to reflect the periodical change of the ideology through describing the transition of the costumes. It might be evident that his image of the strong general changed to that of an intelligent governor, which was in demand when the enlightenment idea became popular. When Napoleon became the emperor, his image changed into that of a Roman emperor, which implies that neoclassical ideas were used as source of influence.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.46-55
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• 1999

This research, as a study of the documentary records, examined the process of men\`s wear development year by year, looking into the newspapers which show objectively social phenomena in those days. The outcomes therefrom were classified according to the important factors of dress and ornaments\` modeling i. e. style, color, pattern, material, ornamentation method. And then, the process of men\`s wear transition was analyzed based on the aforesaid examination with its classification. The above analyses revealed that a transition of a dress and ornaments closely correlates with a social and cultural change and also meant that the dress and ornaments symbolizes the social phenomena in those days. Thanks to the holding of Seoul Olympic Games in 1988, Korean society had tremendously grown with rapid changes in its politics, economy and culture. Also, men\`s wear type became innovative, breaking from the existing orthodox one due to the transition of men\`s viewpoints on value and their lives\` style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.3 s.93
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• pp.1-18
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• 2005

In this study, the transition characteristics of purple series color names appearing in the clothing of the Joseon Dynasty were examined, and the associational meaning of each name were investigated through various methods. The results are as follows; First, Such characteristics as continuity, differentiation, substitution could be observed through the investigation of color names of purple-series appeared on the clothing in the Joseon Dynasty period. Secondly, the associational meaning could be subdivided into; social position symbolic meanings, usage meanings, economic meanings, and thought meanings. The social position symbolic meanings could be observed mainly in the single names which has been used since the ancient times, usage meanings could be observed in a wide variety according to the individual color names. The economic meanings could be observed by comparing the value of colored cloths and colored threads. The thought meanings were mainly related with the Confucianism. Thirdly, the associational semantic structure were established on the basis of associational meanings of purple-series color names. Individual color name on the social position symbolic semantic structure symbolizes [government official] and [servant]. Through usage semantic structure individual color names could be understood structurally according to the social position, sex distinction, wearing situation, items of clothing, and structure of clothing. Individual names on the economic semantic structure were segmented by the semantic components of the values in [high], [medium], [low] prices, kinds and quantity of dyes. The thought semantic structure could be subdivided [Confucianism] and [The Thought of Taeil] in its semantic structure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.149-165
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• 2012

This study is to understand the characteristics of women's Hanbok fashion in the modern Korea by investigating the features of colors and color arrangements of remaining relics. The summary of findings from the researches and analysis from over 1840 pieces of Hanbok relics in modern Korea are as follows: First, since western-style cloth were introduced and utilized for Hanbok from 1960, the number of colors have drastically increased. However, the most commonly used colors and parts throughout all the periods remained the same. These are Y, R and white colors for Jeogori and Y, R and PB colors for Chima. And, as for the representative color of each of the six periods, significant changes of color were found Jeogori in the 1960~1970s. While no clear color changes were found in the period prior to the 1960s and after the 1980s. Secondly, as for the color tones, although the high luminosity-low chroma were generally used over the periods, it was observed that various colors of low luminosity-high chroma began to be used from 1960 and so Jeogori became more colorful. And lastly, Y and white color were taking up the highest percentage in the solid color arrangement. When composing 2 colors, the Y tone color dominants with R tone as sub-color was the most prevalent, and when 3 and 4 colors were combined, the extra color were increasingly seen in the upper garment cuff and collar so that the arrangement of different colors increased the aesthetic symbols when combined with the colors of the Chima.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2009

This study is to understand the characteristics of Korean Women's Jeogories in modern times on the changes of its color and coloration over the time. The research was that the characteristics of the costumes produced in modern times ($1890{\sim}2000$) can be categorized into six periods according to the change of times. 1106 women's Jeogories were researched intensively in order to understand them, the conclusions are following: When the Chi-Square Test is applied to conduct cross analγsis of the said six periods divided on the basis of relevant theories, it is found that there is just partial difference in the hues in1890-1959 while there has been a big change in the hues of all Jeogories since 1960. It also seems that such a sudden change In hues took place till the end of the 1970s but there have been no significant difference and no distinct changes in hues sin[e the 1980s. As for color tones, high luminosity and low chroma hues were mainly used in all periods, but low luminosity and high chroma hues have been frequently used since the 1960s. It indicates that the long-used conventional and traditional colors gave way to various colors which were freely applied according to the tendency of individualism In the selection of colors as well. As for the coloration, one-color arrangement was predominant in white clothes while the combination of main color Y and supplementary rotor R was overwhelming in two-color arrangement. After the 1960s, not just the five major rotors but diverse colors, including bluish green, dark blue, were used, even varied patterns for linings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.149-166
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was illumination of the stage costume by applying the study of a subject of human expression, which establishes identity of dramatic characters. This study was conducted by referring a variety of theses, an extensive national and international literature. The color symbolism that is depicted in Shakespeare‘s work manifests the transition period of old days, which was influenced by the Renaissance and the Religious Reformation. And color preferences and the meanings I attach to them in his play, definitely reveal the Middle Ages Christian way of thinking which was obsessively dominated their mind. I also determine that the color preferences and use in Elizabeth Era also distinctively separate the social status, which were also influenced by its social conditions. Besides this, colors that were depicted in Shakespeare's work also shown many similarities from Italian Commedia dell‘arte, which were in vogue all over the Europe. Customary color symbolisms which from natural color experiences were also applied in "The Tempest". "The Tempest" was presented on the first day of November in 1611 for the first time. Following this, many plays and films have been produced in foreign countries and Korea. With an analysis of "The Tempest", costume designs for Miranda and Ferdinanad were illustrated at the end. The costumes for Miranda and Ferdinand were mainly considered to express pure love and vigorous youth of two lovers, symbolizing the image of the theme love, forgiveness, and reconciliation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.139-148
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• 2010

As a designer, Rei Kawakubo had become one of the most influential woman of the 20th century. Comme des Garçons, which means "like boys"-what women in the early 1980s were least supposed to be-expressed criticism of the prevailing social construct of women and, importantly, of the very concept of fashion. The press had a field day with the so-called post Hiroshima look, with its aesthetic of destruction, poverty, and hunger and with its depressing mood engendered by the use of the color black. This research divided the change of design transition on Kawakubo's fashion by the three categories. The first category was experimental pattern, the second category was esthetics of omission and the third category was innovation of body consciousness. The costume messages through these design works of Kawakubo could summarize 5 items, punk sprit, beyond sex, reality, proposal of new body consciousness and representation of black.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.129-144
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• 2015

This study is aimed to better understand the lifestyle and fashion trend of Korea in 1954 and 1955, a period right after the Korean War. The study examined "The Journey of Duty", which was a color slide film of Seoul and Suwon made by a US soldier stationed in Korea during that time, as well as various documents. The films are assumed to be outcomes of the US Army wanting to record the situation in Korea, and the study was able to use 110 of the slides to examine the fashion trend of the times. There are three noticeable trends shown on "The Journey of duty". Koreans in western clothes, women wearing work pants called Momppae, and black color being in fashion. Most of the men and the children either wore only western clothes or western clothes with the Hanbok. But women rarely wore western-style clothing, such as blouse with skirt. They usually wore Hanbok or wore reformed Hanbok. The work pants, Momppae, becoming an everyday wear is the most unique finding from the slides. Women either wore just the pants or over the traditional Korean skirt. Black-colored clothes were in fashion. This color first spread after the Costume Reform Movement in the 1920s' and the prohibition of white robe. The wearing of white clothes did increase after the Korean liberation in 1945, as national spirit was promoted. However, many people still wore black due to economic reasons, as we as practical reasons. So the Korean fashion in 1954-1955 was in a transition period, as people were beginning to change their daily wears from traditional Korean costumes to western-styled clothes. The reasons for this change could be attributed to people only having access to western goods, as well as their awareness of western-styled clothes being more practical.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.6
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• pp.101-116
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• 2010

The purpose of this thesis is in investigating the Korean twenties face color, according to the seasons, thus presenting a sample Korean Facial Color Map. The face is divided into 20 parts to take measures, and investigated through the four seasons. Minolta Chrome Meter CR-200 has been used for taking measures of the face color. Measuring subjects and area are, University students of both sex, living in the Suncheon. They are of ages the twenties. Classified measuring values of the skin colors are expressed following to the A. H. Munsell's color system. The result of this study is as followed. When comparing parts among male and female(make-up and no make-up) groups for changes with seasonal hue and value of a face color, differences have been sighted among these three groups following the seasons ; Spring(March), Summer(June), Autumn (September) and Winter(December). According to the result of Duncan's proof, the differences of the women group with the make-up attitude was shown only in value from Summer and Autumn, but no differences have been sighted between the make-up group and the no make-up group, concerning hue. Concerning hue, it was shown that men had a redder hue than women in all seasons. In Spring, both men and women had the strongest red hue, then from Summer to Autumn a strong yellowish hue appeared, to make place to a diverse coloring in Winter, followed by a reddish hue, to start all over again. Value number proved to be lower in the Summer and Autumn for the no make-up group when compared to the make-up group, showing an averaging high number for all seasons when putting on make-up; and men value number shows the lowest of the three groups.