• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.21-45
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• 1990

The purpose of this thesis is to study the method of the reasonable pattern design. The studying method is based on the original principle of the trousers' cutting and I have a hypothesis about the trousers pattern which should be proved. When I selected the practical method, I made use of the international measuring rule, graph paper and tracing paper, in order to prove the new pattern design. The reasonable pattern design should be the one of the suitable original principles to be suited in the design through any measurement. Therefore, I have discussed the above mentioned design. I find out the conclusion to prove the hypothesis of pattern design with the experimental measure after showing the above mentiond design. The characteristics is as follows. First : To be convinient when walking, because of little degree as folding of the front part of trousers with the under-angle. Second : To be suitable in proportion to the length of trousers and the under-angle. Third ; When folding the center line of the Sapok (a name of one of the trousers parts), the length of the Sapoks is same and harmonized with the Sapoks because of the same angle of both Sapoks in any case of the measurement. Fourth : No correction of the lines when dressing, for the same points of the large Sapok and the small one. Fifth : To be easiness of the pattern design through the concrete measurement. I could find out a little extent errors of pattern showings, an easiness of dressing, scientification of formation in Korean trousers and standard of the practical measurement in the program to be presented as the result of studying.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.41-57
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• 2010

Yunnan, where twenty-six minor ethnics live, is located in Southwest part of China. They have preserved and developed their folk costume, artcraft, music and dance in their peculiar way with natural and cultural surroundings. So, Yunnan is known as a living folk museum. It's worth examining how climate and circumstances change has affected certain differences of dress shape in same ethnic. Research into costumes of minor ethnics can contribute to the study of origin of the trousers, as this group of people have well succeeded the basic form of trousers through their cultural history and everyday life. This study, at first, investigates geographical surroundings of each minor ethnic group, and figures out the style of all trousers by measuring the each size, then compares design color pattern and fabric. The origin of trousers examined by formative characteristics has been classified and comparatively studied. The study materials are twenty-three trousers selected from in Yunnan Folk Museum as well as other relevant literature records. This study suggests that one can examine the type of human culture through the forms of costume which reflects folk custom geography economy etc. This, in turn, can be used as a basic information for other studies, and in particular, for the study of origin and structure of the trousers.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.10
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• pp.97-109
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• 2001

It is thought that a composition of trousers is related to fabrics with single breadth. Therefore, trousers are designed with pattern using this fabrics with single breadth. However, in the old pattern of trousers, the breadth of 33cm-35cm was not considered in designing patterns. In this context, deciding which pattern design is better is not easy as there are a variety of estimation methods. So in this study, standardization of drafting is pursued by an objective pattern design. For this, a base angle of the trouser closely relating to a form and function was measured and using the height and the base angle, a trouser pattern design was tried. For a measurement of the base angle, 5 subject were selected. They are 25-29 year-old male graduates with fine physical standard. The base angle was measured with symphysis pubis point as a standard when subjects sat with their legs crossed, when they stood with their legs open (not forced artificially) and when they laid down with their legs open. The distance between a knee inside joint and knees was measured three times and the resultant value was used for the pattern design. For a design of trousers, the height was applied and the base angle was fixed. As a pattern drawing, using the height, a base angle and circumference of the hip, a trouser was designed. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The length formula, is height + $\frac{height}{2}$ (2) The hip girth formula is $\frac{hipgirth}{2}$ - $\frac{hipgirth}{20}$(3) A crotch angle is fixed at $72^{\circ}$. (4) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5 : 8. (5) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length is 5 : 8. (6) The ratio of the division point of front right inner leg length and left inner width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.83-94
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the reality of clothes-wearing among physically disabled women and propose trouser designs. As a research method, an in-depth interview method was adopted for 10 women in their 30s and 50s with lower limb disabilities who could wear trousers and use wheelchairs. The study results identified the following factors that should be considered in the design of trousers. First, a semi-casual design that could hide physical deficiencies, was not different from ready-made clothes and enabled various looks was desirable. Second, the proper material would have little transformation in the form, have remarkable durability and laundry fastness, two-directional stretch, and hide deficiencies with a sense of thickness and density. Third, an "L-frame" pattern in a sitting position, and a straight fit were desirable. Finally, pockets can impose pressure according to their form, size, position, and sewing method, highlighted the need for a sewing approach to minimize seams in the fabric. For adjustment, an elastic band would be a good choice in terms of type, length, position, and material as it could satisfy both the convenience of putting on and taking off and comfort in wearing at the same time. Decorative design details can also impose pressure according to a sense of thickness, which means that they should be avoided in parts that are close to the body or can impose pressure according to posture.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.137-148
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• 2010

The usage status of trousers as school uniform for girl's middle and high school students in Seoul and the perception on trousers as school uniform were analyzed. Students who wore 'skirts only' were the greatest and students who wore 'trousers only' were higher in the case of winter uniform than in summer uniform. The most popular reason to wear skirts was 'because most of their fellow students wore skirts' in both winter and summer. The main reason for wearing trousers was 'because it was easy to cope with changes in temperature' in winter and 'because it allowed more comfortable movements' in summer. Students who wore trousers were generally satisfied with wearing trousers as school uniforms. However, they showed a low degree of satisfaction about design and color of trousers. The students preferred slim and straight trousers, and black col or with beige and blue being the next color. Students in general had low level of recognition for the need to wear trousers. Students perceived trousers as being cold-proof and comfortable for physical activities. But they also perceived that trousers were not suitable for improving their appearances and expressing their characteristics. Especially, the students who wore trousers tended to think that trousers reduced their cares for their personal attire and that trousers were good for wearing after school, but the students who did not wear trousers were found to think contrary.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.715-725
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• 2010

This study suggests through an examination of maternity wear sold in domestic markets a design for maternity wear trousers that integrate functionality, aesthetics, and marketability. This study targeted women who had maternity wear experience to obtain basic information for the design of maternity wear trousers. This study conducted questionnaire research on maternity wear and surveyed the growing on-line maternity market. The results are as follows. First, in the questionnaire research on wearers of maternity wear, women 26-35 years old were the main consumers and emphasized comfortableness as the significant reason for buying and using maternity wear. Second, the centering on pants were evaluated to be the most uncomfortable item among maternity wear and confirms the necessity for a maternity wear design whose bodily fitness is high according to the trouser panel. Third, a standard for the specific design was established to solve maternity wear problems based on the analyzed information. This was established by having a concept as a minimal motive in 'new naturalism' that is the aesthetics of slackness for the $21^{st}$ century. A specific design was developed with 6 kinds for skirts and 9 kinds for pants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.68-84
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• 2006

The aim of this study is to examine a structure of trousers worn by males in the western world during the 17th and 18th centuries in order to understand the characteristics of evolution in construction. it mainly examined engravings from these era because they provided me fine and detailed portrayals of what it needed to observe. Then, it classified them into models according to each era. it supplemented a flaw of depending on single type of studying material by examining other types of historical materials such as historical paintings and documents for comparative analysis of materials and decorations and previous studies on preserved historical documents to observe the examples of structures of trousers. Secondly, it studied both historical documents and previous studies on the trousers patterns used back in those days, analyzed the characteristics of each designing method by actually draping these patterns, and observed the differences in these completed patterns to understand the characteristics of changes in fashion design skill. As for the changes in length, these patterns show only a slight difference around above and below the knee line. However, the widths of waist, hip, girth and hem were significantly altered over the years to reduce wrinkles and the cutting lines became more refined to make the clothes fit to the body. As a result, a simple but fine patterning technique was born. In particular, new methods in cutting and sewing were invented for detailed parts such as waist, pocket, front and slit.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.80-92
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• 1999

The objectives of this study were to investigate the relation between personality(activity, emotional stability, and dominance) and clothing design preferences, and to examine the differences of clothing design preferences according to demographic variables of men. Subjects for the study were 255 male white-collar workers ranging in ages from twenties to fifties, in Seoul and Kwangju City, Korea. The men with higher activity of personality preferred the double jacket with 4 buttons, the combination of light color jacket and dark trousers, glen check pattern jacket, herringbone pattern jacket, light beige color dress shirts. The higher the emotional stability, the higher the preferences on diverse patterns such as fine stripe, plaid, hound\`s-tooth check, and small check pattern. The men with higher dominance preferred dark blue color suit, glen check pattern suit, and necktie of red circle, and disliked the necktie of gray circle. The men in their 20\`s and 30\`s liked the single jacket with 3 buttons, the suit of fine stripe and the necktie of gray circle more among three income groups. The higher the men\`s age and income were, the more they liked the conservative style such as a single jacket with 2 buttons. The men who reside in Seoul liked the suit of gray circle, the jacket and trousers of same color, the patternless jacket, and the patternless suit more than the men in Kwangju. Therefore, the men in methropolitan area preferred conservative clothing image. Fine stripe pattern and patternless materials were preferred when men wore jacket and trousers of same color, while glen check pattern was preferred as the pattern of jacket when jacket and trousers of different color. Male white-collar worker liked single jacket more than double jacket, and preferred the dark blue color suit and necktie, patternless suit, fine stripe suit, and the pale blue dress shirts generally. The present findings provide that the personality of male has influence on the clothing design preferences, and it is possible to infer men\`s personality by their attire.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.261-265
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• 2002

To propose a basic material that can improve the crumples in the knee area and can be applied as an element of garment design, the present study examined the elongation rates of the samples by differentiating the number of cutting lines according to the direction of the fabric, and then determined the puckering phenomenon by judging the conditions of the seams based on the looks of seam lines after bi-axil elongation. After the subjective evaluation on the knee areas of both the standard and modified trousers, the following conclusion was drawn : The elongation rates of the samples are: warp (3.98%)cross-legged (-0.2)>squatting down (-0.4); those in the modified trousers feel more comfortable when sitting on a chair (0.2)>cross-legged (0)>squatting down (-0.6). In the cross-legged posture, the modified trousers (0) has higher scores in the subjective evaluation than the standard ones (-0.2). The evaluation on the looks of needleworks in the samples with cutting lines along the direction of the fabric: weft2 (5.0)

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.17-34
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to find out problems which occured between clothes and motor ability traits of the hemiplegic aged. The samples were 32 hemiplegic aged men and were compared with 43 healthy aged men. Motor ability of the samples were measured by ROM test, muscle power test and finger function test(grip strength, hand's coordination, lateral pinch, 3pt. pinch). Design of the clothes consisted of 25 variables and the analysis of dressing and undressing motion consist of 10 motions of dressing and undressing dress shirts and 8 motions of trousers. The results were as follows: 1. There were significant relationship between ROM and muscle power and finger function of the hemiplegic aged(P<.001). 2. There were significant differences between the nomal side's finger function of the hemiplegic aged and that of the healthy group(P<.001). 3. The designs of clothes such as tutle neck line, long sleeve, button cuffs, fastening lace, open zipper and belt of trousers gave much difficulty to the hemiplegic when dressing and undressing. 4. The most difficult motion of dressing and undressing was fastening when dressing both dress shirts and trousers. 5. There were partly significant relationship between design of clothes and ROM, muscle power, finger function of hemiplegic aged man. 6. There were partly significant relationship between the degree of difficulty in dressing and undressing motions and ROM, muscle power, finger function of hemiplegic aged man.