• 제목/요약/키워드: wave and current

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파랑-흐름-잠제의 비선형 상호간섭 해석 (Nonlinear Interaction among Wave, Current and Submerged Breakwater)

  • 박수호;이정후
    • 대한토목학회논문집
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    • 제36권6호
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    • pp.1037-1048
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    • 2016
  • 본 연구에서는 Navier-Stokes 방정식과 자유수면 추적에 VOF법을 채용하는 CADMAS-SURF를 이용하여 파랑과 흐름의 비선형 상호간섭현상을 연구하였다. 파-흐름 공존장에서의 유체거동 해석을 위해 CADMAS-SURF를 수정 및 확장하였고, 계산치를 실험치와 비교하여 본 연구의 타당성을 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구의 수치수로를 파랑-흐름 공존장에서 주어지는 복잡한 물리 현상 규명과 파-흐름-잠제의 상호간섭해석에 적용하여, 유속장, 와도장, 자유수면과 와도와의 관계 등을 논의하였다.

불규칙파.흐름 공존장에서 파랑변동특성 (The Characteristic of Wave Propagation in the Irregular Wave-current field)

  • 이창호;김헌태;류청로;이인철
    • 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국해양공학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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    • pp.128-134
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    • 2003
  • Numerical study on interactions of waves and currents has considerable practical interests in coastal and ocean engineering. And wave-current interactions strongly influence wave characteristics, current profiles, and forces on offshore structures. Presence of currents affects wave properties such as wave height and wave profiles. Furthermore, in case of the irregular waves, it is more complicated problem. The propose of present study, using the one-dimensional wave-current numerical model is based on the extended Boussinesq equation(Madsen, 1991) and an alternative form of wave-current dispersion relation(Mohiuddin, 1999, 2000) including wave action concept, is to simulate wave propagation in a current field including the irregular waves and discuss applicability of the model in a wave-current field.

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파랑에 의한 연안류의 수치모델에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Numerical Models of Wave induced Currents)

  • 이정만;김재중;박정철
    • 한국해양공학회지
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    • 제12권3호통권29호
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    • pp.75-85
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    • 1998
  • A finite difference model for predicting time-dependent, wave-induced nearshore current is studied. The model includes wave refraction, wave-current interaction, bottom friction and wind effect. This model iteratively solved the linear the linear set of conservation of both mass and momentum, which were time averaged (over one wave period) and depth integrated, for mean velocities and free surface displacement. Numerical simulations of nearshore current under oblique wave attack, and for wave and wind induced current on a longshore periodic beach are carried out. Longshore velocities tend to zero in some distances outside the breaker line. And the peak velocity is shifted shoreward at the breaker line. The results represent the general characteristics of the nearshore current induced by wave.

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수치모의를 통한 유사제트-파랑의 상호작용 해석 (Analysis of Interaction of Jet-like Current and Wave using Numerical Simulation)

  • 최준우;배재석;노민;윤성범
    • 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국전산유체공학회 2008년도 춘계학술대회논문집
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    • pp.675-678
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    • 2008
  • The effect of wave and current interactions on jet-like current flowing against waves was investigated based on numerical simulations. The numerical simulations are conducted by a combined model system of REF/DIF(a wave model) plus SHORECIRC(a current model) and a Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE. In the simulations, regular and irregular waves refracted due to the jet-like opposing current were focused along the core region of current, and the jet-like current was earlier spreaded when the waves had larger wave heights. The numerical results show that the rapid change of wave height distribution in transverse direction near current inlet plays a significant role to spread the jet-like current. In other words, the gradients of radiation stress forcing in transverse direction have a more significant effect on the jet-like current than its relatively small gradients forcing in flowing direction, which tend to accelerate the current, do. In conclusion, it is indispensible to take into account the interaction effect of wave transformation and current characteristics when waves meet the opposing jet-like current such as river mouth.

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광안해역에서의 파랑변형예측 (Prediction Wave Transformation in the Kwangan Beach)

  • 박정철;김재중;이정만
    • 한국항해항만학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국항해항만학회 2000년도 춘계학술대회논문집
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    • pp.75-81
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    • 2000
  • Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develop as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. This wave-current model was applied to the Kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

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광안해역에서의 파랑변형예측 (Prediction of Wave Transformation in the Kwangan Beach)

  • 박정철;김재중;김인철
    • 한국해양공학회지
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    • 제15권2호
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    • pp.6-10
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    • 2001
  • Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develope as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. It starts from Berkhoff's(1972) mild slope equation and is transformed to time-dependent hyperbolic type equation by using variational principal. Finally the governing equation is shown as a parabolic type equation by splitting method. This wave-current model was applied to the kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

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수압식 파고계 자료 분석에서 유속의 영향 (The Significance of Current-effect on Analysis of Wave Data Obtained from a Subsurface Pressure Gauge)

  • 이동영;오상호
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • 제31권4호
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    • pp.389-399
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    • 2009
  • Subsurface pressure gauge has many advantages in measuring a wide range of wave spectra in coastal waters from wind waves to long waves. However, a shortcoming of the gauge is related to the difficulties in recovering surface wave spectra from subsurface pressure records. In this study, the effect of current on the pressure transfer function of the pressure gauge, and hence on the surface wave energy spectrum, was investigated by analyzing the subsurface pressure data based on the linear wave theory. For this purpose, laboratory experiments were carried out in a wave-current flume. Subsurface pressure records, as well as the surface elevation data, were obtained simultaneously under different wave and current conditions. Pressure transfer functions were obtained and compared with those estimated from the linear wave theory, both with and without inclusion of the current-effect. It was established that wave spectra obtained from subsurface pressure gauge were in closer agreement with those from surface wave gauge when current-effect on the pressure transfer function was taken into consideration for analysis.

하구에서 파랑-흐름 상호작용이 3차원 흐름특성에 미치는 영향 (Effects of Wave-Current Interactions on 3-D Flow Fields in a River Mouth)

  • 이우동;전호성;박종률;허동수
    • 한국해양공학회지
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    • 제31권1호
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    • pp.36-46
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    • 2017
  • Most of the studies on the hydraulic characteristics of wave-current interaction have used 2-D hydraulic experiments or 2-D numerical simulations. However, it is difficult to understand the wave-current interaction found in actual estuaries using these. Therefore, a numerical water tank was constructed in this study to perform simulations involving a 3-D river mouth. The result showed a change in the water surface at the river mouth from the wave-current interaction. With an increase in the ratio ($V_c/C_i$) between the river current and wave celerity, the wave height and mean water level of the river increased at the wave and current meeting point. A higher $V_c/C_i$ caused a stronger wave-current interaction and increased the turbulence kinetic energy. Thus, the wave height attenuation became larger by the wave-current interaction with a higher $V_c/C_i$. In addition, it was possible to understand the flow characteristics in the vicinity of the river mouth as a result of the wave-current interaction using the mean flow and mean time-averaged velocity at the mid-cross section of river.

쌍곡선형 파랑모형을 이용한 해빈류 예측 (Prediction of Wave-Induced Current Using Time-Dependent Wave Model)

  • 김재중;이정만
    • 한국항만학회지
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    • 제12권2호
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    • pp.269-280
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    • 1998
  • A Wave-induced current model is developed in our study and this model is composed with wave transform model and current model. Two types of wave model are used in our study one is Copeland(1985) type which is applied in the offshore region and the other is Watanabe and Maruyama(1984) type which is applied in the surf zone. The depth-integrated and time-averaged governing equation of an unsteady nonlinear form is used in the wave induced current model. Lateral mixing radiation stresses surface and bottom stresses are considered in our current model. Copeland’s(1976) is used as a surface friction formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by Leendertse scheme and compared with Noda’s(1974) experimental results for the uniform slope coastal region test and Nishimura & Naruyama’s (1985) experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. The results from our wave model and wave model and wave-induced current model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. The model in this study can be applied in the surf zone considering the friction stresses.

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파랑-흐름의 상호작용에 의한 파랑변형 메커니즘 분석 (Analysis on Mechanism of Wave Attenuation under Wave-Current Interaction)

  • 이우동;허동수
    • 대한토목학회논문집
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    • 제36권4호
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    • pp.645-650
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    • 2016
  • 본 연구에서는 기존의 수리모형실험에서 나타나는 파랑-흐름 상호작용에 의한 파고감쇠현상을 분석하기 위하여 Navier-Stokes Solver를 이용한 수치시뮬레이션을 수행하였다. 파랑과 흐름이 만날 경우, 유속의 난류성분이 증가하여 난류강도가 커지는 것을 확인하였다. 이것으로부터 파랑이 전파될수록 난류의 영향으로 파랑에너지가 감소하고, 파고가 줄어드는 현상을 이해할 수 있었다. 그리고 흐름의 유속이 증가할수록 난류강도가 증가함으로 파고감쇠효과가 크게 나타났다. 또한 파랑이 동일한 거리를 전파할 때에 파고가 작을수록, 주기가 짧을수록 파고감쇠현상이 심화되는 것을 확인할 수 있었다.