Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
권호 표지

Anti-wrinkle Effect of Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) Seed Extract (II)

홍화씨추출물의 피부 주름개선 효과(II)

  • 김미진 ((주)사임당화장품 기술연구소) ;
  • 김자영 ((주)사임당화장품 기술연구소) ;
  • 최상원 (대구가톨릭대학교 식품영양학과) ;
  • 홍진태 (충북대학교 약학과) ;
  • 윤경섭 ((주)사임당화장품 기술연구소)
  • Published : 2004.12.01
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Phytoestrogens derived from plants and foods, which are diphenolic compounds with structural similarities to natural and synthetic estrogens, have been shown to estrogenic and antiestrogenic actions. Particularly, recent study revealed that phenolic compounds in safflower seed, such as serotonin derivatives, lignans and flavonoids, could be acted as phytoestrogens. Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) seed extract (SID C.SE), therefore, are receiving a renewed interest as potential therapeutic source against skin wrinkles induced by estrogen deficiency. This study was conducted to investigate the anti-wrinkle effect of SID C.SE on normal human fibroblasts through the expression of type I procollagen and UVA-induced MMP-1 in vitro. The SID C.SE increased the type I procollagen expression, comparable to trans-retinol and reduced UVA-induced MMP-1 expression in a dose-dependent manner. The clinical study indicated that cream group treated with $0.1\%$ SID C.SE significantly reduced a skin wrinkles, as compared with a control (non-treated cream group) (p<0.05). These results suggest that the safflower seed extract may be useful as potential source of anti-wrinkle cosmetics.

최근 홍화씨의 세로토닌유도체, 리그난 및 플라보노이드와 같은 화합물은 에스트로겐${\cdot}$항에스트로겐 활성을 갖는 식물 유래의 diphenol 화합물인 phytoestrogen 물질로 작용할 수 있음이 밝혀지면서 이를 함유하고 있는 홍화씨추출물[safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) seed extract]의 피부주름 개선효과가 기대되고 있다. 본 연구진은 이전에 홍화씨추출물은 피부세포의 산화를 막아주는 항산화작용을 지니고 있으며, 아울러 피부의 matrix protein을 만들어내는 섬유아세포 증식을 촉진할 뿐만 아니라 피부의 구조를 이루고 있는 엘라스틴 단백질을 분해하는 elastase의 활성 저해효과를 보고한 바 있다. 이러한 연구 배경에서 본 연구에서는 홍화씨추출물의 피부주름 개선효과를 알아보기 위해 콜라겐 발현효과 및 MMP-1 발현 억제효과를 각각 측정하였다. 그 결과 홍화씨추출물의 콜라겐 발현효과는 레티놀보다 우수하였으며, 아울러 MMP-1 발현 저해효과는 올레산과 유사하게 농도 의존적으로 저해되었다. 또한 $0.1\%$ 홍화씨추출물 함유 크림은 대조군(홍화씨추출물 미함유 크림)에 비하여 피부주름 개선 효과가 크게 나타났다. 이러한 결과를 볼 때 홍화씨추출물은 주름개선용 기능성화장품 신소재로의 사용이 기대된다.

Keywords

References

  1. 이창복, 대한식물도감 (1980)
  2. D. F. Beech, Safflower, 22, 107, Field Crop. (1969)
  3. A. R. Khan, Thesis, 18, 81 (1929)
  4. 박인규, 김봉제, 동의보감 (1989)
  5. 한대석, 생약학 (1995)
  6. H. L. Zhang, A. Nagatsu, and J. Sakakibara, Novel antioxidants from safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) oil cake, Chem. Pharm. Bull., 44, 874 (1996)
  7. H. L. Zhang, A. Nagatsu, T. Watanabe, J. Sakakibara, and H. Okuyama, Antioxidative compounds isolated from safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) oil cake, Chem. Pharm Bull., 45(2), 1910 (1997)
  8. A. Sakamura, Y. Terayama, S. Kawakatsu, A. Ichihara, and H. Saito, Conjugated serotonins and phenolic constituents in safflower seed (Carthamus tinctorius L.), Agric. Biol. Chem., 44, 2951 (1980)
  9. T. Takii, M., Hayashi, H. Hiroyuki, T. Chiba, S. Kawashima, H. L. Zhang, A. Nagatsu, J. Sakakibara, and K. Onozaki, Serotonin derivative, N-(p-coumaroyl)serotonin, isolated from safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) oil cake augments the proliferation of normal human and mouse fibroblasts in synergy with basic fibroblast growth factor (FGF) or epidermal growth factor (EGF), J. Biochem, 125, 910 (1999)
  10. 이광현, 홍화씨로부터 추출된 세로토닌계 화합물 및 이를 함유하는 조성물, 한국공개특허 출원번호 10-2002-0008315 (2002)
  11. M. J. Thornton, The biological actions of estrogen on skin, Exp. Dermatol., 11(6), 487 (2002)
  12. M. G. Shah and H. I. Maibach, Estrogen and skin, Am. J. Clin. Dermatol., 2(3), 143 (2001)
  13. M. P. Brincat, Hormone replacement therapy and the skin, Maturitas., 29, 107 (2000)
  14. H. J. Kim, Y. C. Bae, R. W. Park, S. W. Choi, S. H. Cho, Y. S. Choi, and W. J. Lee, Bone-protecting effect of safflower seeds in ovariectomized rats Calaif. Tissue Int., 71, 88 (2002)
  15. Y. H. Park, H. K. Park, H. J. Lee, S. M. Park, S. W. Choi, and W. J. Lee, Phytoestrogen-induced phosphorylation of MAP kinase in osteoblasts is mediated by membrane estrogen receptor, Kor. J. Physiol. Pharmacol., 6, 165 (2002)
  16. J. B. Anderson and S. C. Gamer, The effects of phytoestrogens on bone, Natr. Res., 17, 1617 (1997)
  17. S. J. Bae, S. M. Shim, Y. J. Park, J. Y. Lee, E. J. Chang, and S. W. Choi, Cytotoxicity of phenolic compounds isolated from seeds of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) on cancer cell lines, Food Sci. Biotechnol., 11, 140 (2002)
  18. S. H. Cho, S. W. Choi, Y. S. Choi, and W. J. Lee, Effects of defatted safflower and perilla seed powders on lipid metabolism in ovariectomized female rats fed high cholesterol diets, J. Kor. Soc. Food Sci. Nutr., 30, 112 (2001)
  19. G. J. Fisher, S. W. Kang, and J. J. Voorhees, Retinoic acid inhibits induction of c-Jun protein by ultraviolet radiation that occur subsequent to activation of mitogen-activated protein kinase pathways in human skin in vivo, J. Clin Invest., 101, 1432 (1998)
  20. G. J. Fisher and J. J. Voorhees, Molecular mechanism of photoaging in human skin in vivo and their prevention by all-trans retinoic acid, Photochem Photobiol., 69, 154 (1999)
  21. SID Carthamus SE 함유 크림의 피부 주름개선 효과 평가 시험, (주)더마프로, (2004)
  22. J. H. Chun, S. W. Kang, J. Varani, J. Lin, G. J. Fisher, and J. J. Voorhees, Decreased extracellular signal regulated kinase and increased stress activated MAP kinase activities in aged human skin in vivo, J. Invest Dermatol., 115, 177 (2000)
  23. J. Y. Sea, G. E. Rhie, and J. H. Chung, The effect of ultraviolet irradiation on the expression of type I procollagen and MMP-1 in human dermal fibroblast and human skin in vivo, Kor. J. Invest. Dermatol., 8, 116 (2001)
  24. M. J. Kim, J. Y. Kim, S.-W. Choi, J. T. Hong, and K.-S. Yoon, Anti-wrinkle effect of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) seed extract (I), J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists, 30(1), 15 (2004)