The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
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Natural dyeing of cow leather with cochineal

코치닐을 활용한 우피의 천연염색

  • Kim, Sangyool (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Mokpo National University)
  • Received : 2016.09.18
  • Accepted : 2016.11.17
  • Published : 2016.12.31
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Abstract

The introduction of natural dyes into modern dye houses is very promising green chemistry concept that should be popularized more to reduce the dependency of leather dyeing on some toxic and non-biodegradable synthetic dyes. In this study, the properties of dyeing of cochineal on cow leather were evaluated. The proper dyeing conditions were identified with dye uptake (K/S values) depending on the colorant concentration, dyeing duration, dyeing temperature, and dye bath pH. For the proper mordanting conditions, color changes for different mordants were observed as $La^{*}b^{*}$ and H V/C values. Color fastness (light, rubbing, and dry cleaning) was also examined. Additionally, antibacterial properties and UV protection were examined. The results were as follows: The optimized dyeing conditions were 300% o.w.f., $40^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. The cow leather color was red in the absence of mordanting, while it was red purple after being mordanted with Al and Cu, and purple mordanted with Fe. The K/S value of cow leathers increased in the order of the dyeing using $AlK(SO_4)_2$ > $CuSO_4$ > $FeSO_4$. The colorfastness to light and rubbing were reduced compared to original (untreated) cow leather. However dry cleaning fastness was very satisfactory, with a 4~5 rating. The dyed and pre-mordanting dyed cow leather showed excellent antibacterial properties.

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References

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